*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Both release note files say:

New BIOS : E16Q2IMS.112
ROM CheckSum : 0xF67F
Release Date : 2019/7/22

So doesn't look like anything at all changed.

 

Then that's either a mess up on the part of the maintainer of the uploads - posting the same update a second time, or somehow the issuer of updates from engineering messed up similarly.

That I've seen before and what I do is open a support ticket and mention to them - in the details you've provided last which should have been provided first so they immediately see the problem - and ask them to ask engineering if they have a real update that was meant to be uploaded instead of the duplicate that was actually uploaded.

Thanks for sticking through the debugging process, you might get a real BIOS update out of it, or it's simply a mistake uploading the same BIOS 2x without another BIOS in the chute.

 

How accurate is the sRGB profile in the True Color software?

 

Base current updated drivers and software MSI for GS65
For Win10 x64, 1903.

Download: Mega

 

Okay the GPU Fan grinding thing has kinda fixed itself... for now. But now I noticed, that the green LED of the 'm' key is dead... or almost dead (in the dark full brightness only green, you can see a very dim light).

Especially the green LED dieing doesn't seem to be an... exception for this model... man and I was so happy that the fan got its sh*t together... I guess there's no way to revive reckt LEDs right?

Does MSI always have these kinds of Quality issues? I have to say... my Opinion and Emotions towards them kinda went sour with all of this...

I just can't recommend MSI to friends and family anymore right now... I would feel guilty for recommending something that falls apart so soon so easily

 

The hot components including the SSD are all facing upwards,

It could be the reason why the Keyboard LEDs die so soon in the GS series.

Things could be different in the GE and GT series.

 

Sounds reasonable.
But it's MSI who keeps putting the mainboards upside down, at least on the GS series...

Is there anything I could do, to prevent the Keyboard/LED from heating up/ failing so soon?

Maybe replace ssd and ramsticks with ones that do not get that hot?


Even if it gets repaired now, it just sounds like the same failure will happen again for sure...

 

Well if you remove the thermal pad on top of the SSD should pro-long the life of the LED as it stops the heat from directly transferring to the backside of the keyboard,

But that'd mean if the SSD are in NVME mode, they are going to get pretty hot without the thermal pads, around 70~80C.

But if your SSD are in SATA mode, it would only max at around 60C.

I've added thermal pads onto the top surface of the 2 SSD after I bought the laptop for about 8 months time,

All the LEDs were fine, until I added the thermal pad for about 2 months, a few started dying.

In fact I think these GS series are more suited for SATA mode SSD as they run cooler.

But if you are worrying about the temperature, you can limit them to use only 1/3 of the power, resulting in a similar temperature as the SATA mode SSD.

See this post for the guidance:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...cussions-lounge.815216/page-384#post-10940302

 

Holy sh*t that's actually very helpfull! Thx man!

A quick question though: Do you think that my GS65 already has such a thermal pad on the ssd?

And if it does: Would I still need to remove it, if I apply your fix? Or would the temp be so low, that even the thermal pad conducting the ssd heat to the keyboard wouldn't be that much of a problem?

Also... is there maybe a way to further lower the temp of the ssd with an... undervolt or sth?


But again, thx for the info! Everywhere else people sounded like "cheap led, will break", but you actually explained the reason, why it even breaks!

 

The slot with the OEM drive comes with a pad underneath from the factory. Gs65 8rf and 8se.



Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

With underneath you mean ssd to mainboard? So no direct contact between ssd and keyboard/led controller?

Thx for the info. After the repair, I will try the power limit fix then. Let's see if that helps.

 

This faces bottom panel/chassis. So yeah, no direct contact with keyboard. However, Keyboard flex cable plugs in over the area where ssd2 is located.

 

Yep mine only had the thermal pad underneath the SSD attaching to the motherboard at first, I added the ones to the top attaching to the keyboard 8 months later.

But in the newer model, MSI has started adding thermal pads to the top attaching to the keyboard, probably not all the machines but some.

 

Has anyone attached additional thin heat pipes to the cooling system? Often the exhaust air seems not that hot compared to the CPU, GPU temperature.

 

Maybe if you / they spread out the heat across the whole keyboard with a much larger thermal pad.

Or going the other way, protected the keyboard with a large pad / sheet of insulation to block the heat, that would stop heat related failures, and cool the keys for your fingers.

 

Would Kapton tape fulfill this purpose?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Too thin, I think, you'd need a thermal barrier pad with some layered thickness.

This may not be the "best", and I haven't needed to use it myself - and there are some comments about it de-layering so use care in application of this or other similar layered thermal barrier products:

CSI 25070 Heat Shield Insulation: 4 ft x 6 ft
https://www.amazon.com/CSI-25070-He...show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Here's another one:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-1...show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Given the side to face the heat is aluminum, you would want another Mylar / kapton sheet to keep things from shorting out.

That was a first find, so keep looking for an even better fit. There must be some sheet material that would be ideal...

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+shield+sheet&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

quick question guys
Can i slot in double sided SSD drive to this laptop? I was looking at AData SX8200 Pro 1TB or Silicon Power A80 1TB, both of them are double sided. Thanks in advance

 

I have two stripped screws on the heatsink covering the CPU. They are really small and for now there is no urgency to replace them, however when I need to repaste I'm going to need to fix this issue. Does anyone have any tutorial to take these out (and where to get replacement ones?) or should I just use MSI support and bring it in?

 

Do NOT buy the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro, while it is physically compatible it will bring you nothing but troubles. I went through 2 and gave up and ended up selling it (bought, retailer swapped it for a new one, same issue and decided to sell vs go through return).

They work until they don't and the you need to remove the drive, boot back without the drive, then shut down and re install drive and boot again, then if you crash repeat the whole step again because it will not post past MSI logo after a crash or forced shut down.

Another 2 users reported issues with this NVMe drive (this was on the GS65 8SX with lastest BIOS at the time so 05/2018.)

I went through 2 drives with different firmwares on each, both had same issues. ADATA SSD Toolbox sucks and you can't find firmware updates on their site, or anywhere I looked.


Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

I was thinking about that, there are heat pipes as thin as 0.4mm on the market right now.

The thing is bending those is definitely something that requires a lot of attention.

If I really do it, I'll have the start point placed the top of the existing heat pipe of the CPU / GPU and the end point will be welded onto the fan plate.

Of course before attaching you'll need to sand away the black heat barrier paint.

Even though it's not exactly on the heat fin area, but it'll definite increase the amount of heat pulled away from the chip.

There are a few golden rules for this kind of work:

1. Advised bending angle is to max 120°, if you are going more, do no more than 90°.
2. The beamed end is always placed on the hottest or chip area, the round end is always placed onto the fin area or the area you want the heat to exit from your system.
3. Each bend will lower the heat transferring capacity by around 20%.

 

Thank you for your tips. Do you know how much space we have between the heatpipes and the shell?
Also, what are you going to use to weld/glue on the heat pipes?

 

No idea.

You might have to place something that's easily deformed and stays that way once compressed and measure it.

Edit: Some use Plaster Star 922, but for curing you'll need to place something heavy on top to make sure the heat pipes are in well contact.

 

I had this same specific problem and was able to remove them using these:
https://www.amazon.com/VMPVT-001-5-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HMYV9V3Y6QAE3271XWKJ
I don't know where you might get the specific screw replacements but I was able to scavenge identical screws from an older MSI laptop.

 

Thanks appreciated. Guess will try with the SiliconPower or other SSD drives

Update:
My SiliconPower A80 1TB SSD just arrived and it was running fine.

Also did a repaste with noctua NT-H1 and i can see the CPU running 10C cooler than before. The original paste was terrible and too much. I dont see much improvement on GPU though.

 

Thanks for the info! I don't have any MSI laptops at hand besides this one so... seems I'm out of luck because MSI wants me to send my laptop in for an RMA just to have the screws replaced.. lol

 

For those still running the 8th generation gs65 that use dragon center, there have been several updates to DC and they have changed the fan speeds. I created a chart showing the rpm's at different percentages for all 3 fans.
The one thing I don't know and would like to if anyone has the info is the temp trigger points for each fan slider. I found this info once but it is old and likely not accurate anymore. If anyone has this info please post it. Here's my chart including the old trigger points and new fan speeds.

 

Oh, yes they sped up all the fans, initial speed is higher as is max speed

 

Mine 1060 GPU hovering around 76C on full load, wanted to check with you what is your GPU temperature when running on full load?

 

Its been a while since I measured it but my max temp under an AIDA stress test was 78C for the GPU

 

Do these drivers also work for the P65 8RF White Limited Edition with GTX 1070 MaxQ?

 

It should work as part of supported driver database.

 

Thanks man. i just repaste and replace the thermal pad, when i increase the GPU fan speed to maximum the GPU temperature won't come down, it's just remain at 76C. Not sure the thermal pad thickness will affect the contact between GPU and the heatsink or not

 

When you tightened the heatsink did you turn it till it wouldnt turn anymore? or turned it till you hit resistance? and in a crisscross pattern.

 

Don't over-tighten it otherwise the screw or base can be damaged.

 

Thanks for the response. Additional question, all of these drivers are for Windows 10 version 1903?

 

1803+

 

They should work without issues.

 

Did anyone find a 1060 bios with higher TDP? I tried the razer one but i had to go back to stock because it didn't recognize the card.

If anyone knows about a bios with higher TDP i would really appreciate it. Thanks!

EDIT: I have the P65, the TDP for the 1060 is 60W, i thought it was the same for the gs65 but i found a gs65 bios with 78W TDP. I flashed that one and it works.

Just for curiosity, does your GS65 with 1060, comes with 78W TDP?

 

Here is what i tested. I have a MSI P65 8RE with a 1060. Its almost the same to a GS65. All the test are using basic fan profile at fast speed.

My stock bios has a TDP of 60W, i think the GS65 has a 78W TDP at stock. My temps were max 70 degrees.

I flashed this one: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/214132/214132 . Which is supposed to be the stock GS65 and it works, the tdp is now 78W, temperatures are 75 degrees max.

Then i found this one: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/208746/208746 . This one allows me to pull 88W, temperatures are now 80 degress max.

I don't know if to stay with the 78W for safety or the 88W, i don't know if this can be affecting VRM's.

Here are the scores 60W vs 88W.

 

In regards to the drivers, is there a specific installation order to avoid any conflicts? Will be doing a clean install on my P65 in a few hours.

 

I would install the drivers from the MSI site, intel first then nvidia and update afterwards. Clean install with completely fresh drivers has given me problems before. So i just use the old ones then update afterwards. Most important is installing intel first though.

 

The activation points seem to be the same. The updated EC firmware just increased the lowest point at which the fan starts. For example, any setting between 1-44% will start out at 2700 RPM (rough estimate). The older firmware would actually let the fan run very silent if you set it that way, i believe it started up between 1700-2000 RPM. New firmware kind of just deadlocked the minimum, i downgraded back because of that. 2700 RPM is quite noticeable in a quiet setting and that basically sets the fan to start at 50% of it's max speed when it trips the first trigger point.... very annoying.

 

I repaste again and use 0.5mm instead of 1.0mm thermal pad around GPU, it's working fine now. If i crank up the fan, i can see the GPU temperature slowly cool down. So i think it's because if the contact between GPU and heatsink due to thicker thermal pad that i used.

 

I need to apply my own thermal to this computer, been meaning to for months. Just been busy. Any suggestions to go about the application and what paste to use? I'm well aware of the motherboard being reversed and I'll basically need to take the whole computer apart. Thanks.

 

What software can I use to control the fan if I'm not using Dragon Center?

 

MSI Silent Option

 

After 9 months, one key stopped displaying the correct backlight. First the coolers started making noise, and now the keyboard.

Spoiler: photo

 

See if you can reset the EC firmware, and/or reflash it. If problem persists then contact MSI tech support for warranty service.

 

Did anyone edit the TCC activation value in the bios? This is the offset in which the processor start to throttle. The temperature is 100 degress - TCC activation value. Default is 10, so the throttle temperature is 90 degrees, i set it to 7 and now PROCHOT is 93 degres. So i posted it in case someone was looking for this, as some notebooks comes with this value set to 0 and run up to 100 degrees, i don't know if this is good, i normally run mine on 70-80 degrees, but in some games it peaks to 90 so i did it to avoid thottling in those peaks.