*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I thought that too at first, but without it running and set back to default my temps never hit higher than 85 so I don't know why it would throttle at all. They seemed lower without my changes. I need to benchmark with and without and not worth about a game that may have just been less demanding at the time I guess.

 

Try benchmark and stress tests.

 

With all settings stock, what kind of performance can your system reach to? See if you can get a comparison done and we can try to figure this out.

 

I did a quick stress test and logged results, my average effective clock according to HWInfo as stock was 3315MHZ, and with ThrottleStep configured it was 3693MHZ. Temps didn't seem to be that different though, within a few degrees.

Which does more for temps, CPU core or CPU cache? Both of them are set to an offset of -155.3 and when I tried any more it went to a boot loop, but I'm not sure which caused it since I changed them both at the same time.

 

CPU core you can Undervolt further but it is generally recommended here to set both as same.

It seems like the Undervolt is working as ur able to get higher clockspeed. Also, monitor current and Max temp in hwinfo while stressing to understand better how the temps are working.

With only Undervolt you will hit the 90C mark and throttle but the clock speed would be better than without undervolt only if ur lucky as some you will not thermal throttle and maintain high clockspeed but temps will be around 85C to 87C.

You can however set a lower clockspeed as default in Throttlestop and in that case the temps would be lower and clock speed will be stable.

Try cinebench r15 as a basic test u will see the difference in scores with and without undervolt.

 

hello everyone,

I'm a new owner of this laptop, which was love at first sight (because of the design and compact form for such a powerful machine).

The problem is now that in daily use I have lots and lots of problems (heating issues, stutter issues on external display, battery issues...) I think the main problem for me it is that the laptop sale value is pretty big, at least from my opinion, which theoretically puts it in a premium segment on paper... but the daily usage experience is similar with a very cheap laptop.

anyway, my latest problem (which somehow was solved last week but now it's driving me nuts), the Nvidia GPU status states that my RTX 2060 is inactive, but the power led is always orange...

any tips on how to solve this?

best regards,
Alin

 

Yep, my score with the undervolt was about 400pts higher than stock, as seen here:

 

So, the undervolt is working and it is allowing the higher clock be acspeed totive for longer duration.

The next step if u want better temps would be lowering boost clock speed using FIVR in Throttlestop this will allow you to restrict the highest clock speed which will allow you to get scores similar to stock and lower temps.

 

Okay, so here's today's major disappointment. So I received my replacement GPU fan (actually both GPU fans in an enclosure) and extremely carefully removed the motherboard, the heatsink, removed the old GPU fan(s), inserted the replacement ones, removed old thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol, applied new (Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly) on both GPU and CPU (this was my first time ever working with thermal paste), and then meticulously assembled the laptop back together. Only to discover that sure enough, that GPU fan 2 is still running at max speed as soon as the machine is turned on. Sigh.

So I disassembled the machine again, this time with the intent to (once again) extremely carefully inspect the 4-pin GPU 2 fan connector on the motherboard... and lo and behold, one of the pins is clearly missing! I can only expect that this is the "sense" pin, and this must have been the cause of the constantly running fan ever since I received the machine back from the first RMA. My suspicion at this stage is that whoever replaced the fans and heatsink when I first RMA'd it (due to the infamous "rattling fan" issue) must've damaged the pin when they connected the fan.

Having verified the broken connector I tested what I considered in my previous post: running the machine with GPU fan 2 completely disconnected. What a relief! The machine is almost completely silent on boot and under no load. The difference with what I've put up with during all this time is incredible.

So at this stage I have two questions.
1. Is there any way at all to replace a broken pin in a 4-pin connector like this?
2. With GPU fan 2 disconnected, what is going to happen when I put the machine under GPU load? Will it just throttle, or do I run any risk of actually damaging the GPU?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

So essentially a lower top end but more consistent speeds... interesting.

Also, as far as I know ThrottleStop doesn't need to be running for the config to be active judging by the fact that when i pushed it too far it got put in a reboot loop, correct? I have it set to save immediately.

 

It is better if u set a task for it and keep it running.

I have noticed after applying it will stay like that until windows hard restart(alt+f4 on desktop or by any other way ). With soft restart i.e using the start menu option it won't reset.

 

If a pin is broken off from the connector, you can solder replacement connector, or the missing pin if you don't mind the hassle. You can try to do RMA and see if MSI is willing to repair it for you free of charge, but it is possible that they may charge you.

 

Hi, thanks for the suggestion, but I think soldering of these tiny components is a bit above my skill level. And warranty is long expired on this machine anyway.
For those interested, I actually dared to do some gaming (Black Mesa, the Source engine remake of Half-Life) with the secondary GPU fan disconnected and the temperatures do reach 90 (checking with Silent Option) for both GPU and CPU which I sort of expected, despite the repaste (which I do believe I did correctly). The reduced airflow from the missing secondary GPU fan likely causes higher internal temperatures overall - after all, the machine was designed to have three fans spinning under GPU load. But at least I haven't seen temperatures exceed 90, which I interpret as a sign that thermal throttling is working correctly and prevents damaging the machine.

 

Question please,

I have 2 monitors that do 1440p and 2160p resolutions.
Can the gs65 1070 power both simultaneously using a display port splitter? Or does 1 have to use HDMI and the other Display port?
Cheers

 

DisplayPort 1.2 MST would provide that feature however we don't know if the notebook supports or not. But without using a MST hub, do you know if your monitor supports MST daisy-chain as some do, please see below DELL article and let us know whether it works for you or not.
https://www.dell.com/support/articl...isplayport-multi-stream-transport-mst?lang=en

 

My monitors are XG438Q and PG349Q
I currently have my 1440p monitor plugged directly into the display port on the gs65.
Having an additional monitor won't work when i purchase and plug both into a display port MST hub?

That's insane.

 

Both monitors don't provide MST hub therefore you will need to purchase the MST hub since those monitors don't offer such function. Please see below search result.
https://www.mwave.com.au/searchresult?button=go&w=displayport+mst+hub&af=

 

Will the MST hub power both monitors using their highest resolution 1440p and 2160p on the gs65?
Or because it's a splitter it wont have that much power and i have to get another HUB and use HDMI on one while the other uses a display port connection?
Thanks for helping

 

This MST hub uses USB power so it does require that additional power. It supports 2x 4K monitors @ 30Hz so if you want to do gaming then this may be a bad idea.
https://www.startech.com/AV/display...yport-Adapters/mst-hub-displayport~MSTDP122DP

 

Oh my
Is there any other way i can use another adapter or hub and get full 120Hz+ on both monitors with full resolution?

 

You can only get one monitor at high fps from the 1x DisplayPort, and if you use a hub then you don't have sufficient bandwidth.
Currently, only Thunderbolt 3 with full bandwidth can provide that kind of performance.

 

Thank you for your help.

Looks like the only devices i can use are thunderbolt dock adapters that will do a max refresh rate of 60hz.
https://www.mwave.com.au/product/startech-thunderbolt-3-dock-with-dual-4k-mac-windows-ac12377

 

That's correct.

 

God bless you

 

Does liquid metal provide better temperature than good silicone TM, since with the GS65 the limitation seems to be the heatsinks themselves?

 

Depending on how factory TIM is done, some are good some are bad as in I've had video cards fresh from the factory that had good paste that a repaste of premium TIM did a little bit of a difference.

Now typically with GS65:
CPU stock -> Premium Paste -> 5-10C~ difference
CPU stock -> Liquid Metal -> 10-20C~ difference

Premium Paste -> Liquid Metal -> 5-10C~ difference

GPU w/ Premium Paste -> Liquid Metal -> 5C~ difference.

Considering the density of a CPU compared to a GPU, LM will benefit CPU more hence why some people just opt CPU for LM rather than both.

Yes the heatsinks arent that great but in this case CPU benefits more from LM... at a risk of course and losing warranty.

Edit: Yes while you'll still be limited with the heatsink/fans, the heat dissipation will be quicker and in turn you wont hear the fans screaming or jet mode on booting up. On games and high stress it will still ramp up but you'll see it hit around 60-70C rather than say 80-90C YMMV.

The first thing I noticed when I went LM was there was no jet ramp up at boot up when I didn't turn on ThrottleStop yet, usually it becomes really loud till i turn on TS then it ramps down. Now you just hear a little bit of air then gradually goes down.

 

My unit makes a similar sound. Weirdly enough, it stops when I unplug the laptop. Did you find any solutions to this?

 

Coil whine is normal when components are under load so it's not really defective. Also, it is true that not all of them do it, and not everyone can hear it so you don't get such feedback (or possibly had been ignored if it's not severe).
If you just got the unit you can check with the reseller to see if you can swap it out, otherwise you will be stuck with it for life.

 

Just bought a gs65. I noticed that the right side lid is slightly bent/curved

Nothing is wrong with the screen (no dead pixels, discoloring, etc). Just bent. Anyone else’s is like this?

https://imgur.com/a/OLOR3oo

dunno how to post pics, sorry

 

That might had been shipping-related. How did the cushion looked like when you first received it? Perhaps place the laptop back into the box to see how it looks like to get a better idea?

 

I bought it from Best Buy. Everything looked perfectly normal when I opened it.

 

The cushion foam holds top and bottom sides so they may have been depressed to cause a bit of bulging to the middle.
If this is a concern to you then do an exchange, but most likely it shouldn't have any long-term side effects.

 

I've had this laptop since it was launched and really like it. I bought it because I thought it would garner the kind of enthusiast following that it has. I use it for local CUDA GPU development exclusively in Linux.

It's what, 18months old now, and the CMOS battery recently died (it's a non-rechargeable CR1220 with 2pin 1.25mm connector since you ask - you'll only notice if you accidentally drain main battery to shutdown and have custom boot sequence).

Anyway because it's the first time I need to go to the trouble of removing the upside down motherboard I thought I'd take the opportunity to go to work on it with a Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal repaste. Having done that and despite 399 pages of great info, I still have some unanswered questions about this laptop:

1) There is blue thermal gunk on the 3VRUs/6MOSFETS south of the GPU. I cleaned and applied 1mm Arctic pads instead. Couldn't tell if they made good contact with the heatsink or not. What did everyone else use? - no one ever mentions this.

2) There are 3 SOIC-8 flash chips, all with painted dots, 1xred, 1xpurple and 1xgrey. Which is the BIOS and what are the others?

3) I'd never noticed the pinhole in the back to what I assume is the Embedded Controller reset microswitch that disconnects it from the battery. I have flashed the EC several times with updates without resetting it without any issues. What is the purpose of the switch and how should it be used?

4) The EC firmware downloadable from the MSI website is byte-for-byte included in the BIOS ROM file they supply. Why is it duplicated in the BIOS file and if you update the BIOS do you really need to update the EC as well?

5) What settings does 'Load Optimised Defaults' in the BIOS apply exactly? I hadn't spotted that my reset BIOS had maxed out on a 22x multiplier until I did that. Are these optimised defaults manually configurable with the Alt-RtCtl-Shift-F2 bios unlock?

6) What is the difference between Intel SpeedStep and Intel SpeedShift. It seems that only SpeedStep is enabled in the standard BIOS. Is it appropriate to have both enabled or just one and is it the case that SpeedShift is best?

Anyway since the repaste my temps seem to be 15-20degC cooler with a 160-120-160 undervolt, although I can honestly say I never found the temps/noise much of a problem even under extended high load.

Any expert knowledge to any or all these questions appreciated!

 

Hi guys,

Few months ago I wrote about the issue I have with my MSI GS65 Stealth Thin 8RF (i7-8750H, 16GB, GTX 1070).

Today I reverted to the BIOS (E16Q2IMS.111) and EC Firmware (16Q2EMS1.106) which were installed on the laptop when I bought it (I also reset the EC after the BIOS update).

Unfortunately that didn't help and the problem still persist. CPU fan is always running at 6000RPM from the moment you turn on the laptop.
Changing fan curves, profiles, etc in Dragon Center does nothing.

I don't know if it is motherboard problem, fan problem or fan controller problem?




Does anyone know what other things can I try to solve the issue?

 

Today I also tried disconnecting the CMOS battery twice for few minutes but it didn't help.
I've also tried the "hard reset" by pressing the EC clear button for 60 seconds, but unfortunately it did not help either. :/
CPU cooler is still in "permanent cooler boost mode" all the time, and it drives me crazy

 

Is the fan defective? Because it should have a control wire to adjust its speed.
Also, are you using stock EC firmware? Or modified?

 

Hello

I just read about wi fi 6 cards and got quick question is Intel AX200 compatible with MSI GS65 8rf? Currently using Intel 9260 card.

Thank you

 

We found they did not consistently work, so we never offered WiFi 6 on the MSI GS65 8xx. However, if it would be important to you, they are cheap enough to see if it will work on yours.

 

Hello Donald

I can confirm it works with no issues and actually got more stable connection.

I also bought asus rt-ax88u router what support wifi 6 and can't wait for some tests.

 

Sorry.. i cannot help you with the fan issue.
I noticed in ur image that the text on bottom of motherboard reads MS-16Q21 VER : 1.1 and mine reads MS-16Q21 VER : 1.0.
Infact I have had a change of motherboard and the new one supposedly was imported from Taiwan and it has the same written over it i.e MS-16Q21 VER : 1.0.

I am just wondering if someone can confirm if there is actually a version update of motherboard and if so what does it change or fix?

 

Finally having this issue. I bought my device in May 2019.

Fan speed will oscillate from apparently 0 (inaudible) to Max...? (Audible) and subsequently MSI Silent Option stops detecting them when this occurs. I want to think it's almost like the fans are spinning up trying to tell Silent Options "Here I am, here I am, can't you hear me?", sounds a bit crazy but the only way I can think of to describe it.

It occurs occasionally, so far it has happened twice today, it only goes on for a few minutes. When MSI silent options finally detects the fan and reports RPM, all is fine.

Just making this post to gauge how widespread this error is. On the latest EC and BIOS firmware.

If anyone found a solution that worked let me know. I do not use or have Dragon Center running. I may need to see if installing this prevents the issue from occurring.

 

I had a similar issue with my gs65 when I first purchased it (used) , First thing I did was repast the cpu and gpu , look for the tutorials on how,

 

Done, will wait and see.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Hey xLima, if the fan issue still persists after repasting, try reverting back to the stock VBIOS.

 

Anyone tried 16Q4EMS1.110 firmware yet?

 

ok boyos. fans broke 6 months ago, np replaced.
re-pasted for 5 degrees of difference.
now last week the power brick and a key die. brick luckily was easy. the a key the rubber dimple is detached from the membane.....makes the key sit lower and not spring up.....

I have a replacement keyboard but its plastic welded in place...... guys what can i do here?

shes been pretty good for 18 months but no a key is rough....

 

I know MSI replaces whole top cover(is this an option for you?). Maybe melt the rivet and slide your new keyboard on place?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Hi,
May someone help how can I make two sound devices?
I have only one sound device, so if I want to use speaker I need to unplug my headphones, that's really annoying.
I have 2018 model with W10 Pro installed from scratch with all drivers updated to latest, manually.

And as a bonus question, does someone know how long is the fans life-cycle in hours? I just noticed that I can set CPU fan to 0 RPM in SilentOption and it works like a charm since I don't have high workloads anyway, so my fan is idle 90% of the time.

 

Hello

I have a temperature problem in the Core 1,3 and 5 that rise as 15º more than the other 3 cores.

I did some time ago I reviewed with LM it seems that it can be the problem of the 1mm thermalpad vs the 0.5mm

I am going to try to solve it like this but I may be curious to know why 3 cores get hotter and in this case 3 and 5 maybe more than 1.


Sorry my inglish is translate by google

 

I did not see a difference when I swapped these pad sizes. The 0.5mm did not even touch the HS.

It is more likely an issue with uneven heatsink.

Only real fix would be to lap/sand down the heatsink, but not sure if worth it. You can test this by using pressure paper.

Safest option is to use a thicker thermal paste (CoolerMaster mastergel makar nano worked for me)

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk