*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

My onboard microphone and camera do not work. Ive tried drivers, dragon center, 60 second power button trick. The microphone shows up in windows like its there but never picks up sound. Webcam does not even show up (but is enabled in DC). Anything else I can try?

Love this laptop but I've had nothing but problems with it... dead fans, touchpad buttons stuck, etc.

 

I can’t say much in regards of the mic and the webcam, because I never used them and never will. Smartphones are better in my opinion in both mic and video nowadays, so onboard webcams and mics are pretty much pointless and bad (early 2000s quality). I even blocked them completely in Windows.

What I would say tho: Uninstall Dragon Centre, it’s a ****show. Bloatware on your machine. Also clean up registry with CCleaner and download Windows10Debloater and run everything (I advise the GUI version for full control but you can just run the script as is)

 

No, I didn’t notice any other option come up.

For now, I’m here:

2667MHz 15-15-15-30 at 1.2V

tCWL: 9
tFAW: 16
tREFI: 65535
tRFC: 425
tRRD_L: 6
tRRD_S: 4
tRTP: 5
tWR: 10
tWTR_L: 6
tWTR_S: 2
NMode: 1N

0 errors in MemTest86, however every now and then (this means not in every test, but every 2nd or 3rd test usually) I receive a note (not an error) that says: “RAM may be vulnerable to high frequency row hammer bit flips”.

 

I broke the keyboard ribbon connector (port on motherboard) and i need to buy a replacement,
anyone knows where i can find that online ?

thanks

 

Hello folks!
I need to send my GS65 in RMA for gpu fan issue. (sigh)
So, I need to create a backup image and reset to factory default before send it.

For the factory default reset I will use MSI BurnFactory on USB flash drive.
But, before this, I need to create a backup image. What software do you suggest? I find in thread the Macrium Reflect Free Edition.
Thsnk you very very much.

 

It's good - or Easeus free - or Aomei backupper free. Used all of them.

 

Thank you very much Zipperi!

 

What can be the consequences for the Sata SSD drive because the laptop does not support power-saving mode (DevSleep)?

Spoiler: img ssd

 

Question about installing a second SSD. I'm looking at adding a 1tb samsung EVO 970 to the open slot. It appears this SSD will have better performance than the original SSD. This led me to the idea of moving the operating system to the new drive and using the old drive for storage. I've read about cloning the old drive to the new one but am a little confused. Will cloning move literally everything, files, programs pictures, movies etc? If it does, will it keep all the partitions such as recovery? If cloning moves literally everything, is there a better way, ie just move operating system. I guess I need a step by step guide. The guides I found are not for what I'm trying to do. Also any suggestions are welcome. My goal is to have the operating system on the newer, faster drive and have the old drive for storage of files, photos movies, etc.which means after I move the OS I need to wipe and/or re-partition the old drive. Ugh, I just am not sure how to proceed.

 

Cloning does a complete image of the system. It's the only way I make backups. After doing one I confirm that the imaged system boots. On my GT73 the RAIDed SSD default system boots in about 7 seconds. And the image from HDD takes about 1.5 minutes. Quite a difference... Macrium Reflect free, Easeus free, Aomei Backupper free - used all of them.

 

I need help please.
I've done lots of research and am about ready to install a new 1tb Samsung 970 EVO plus in the open slot, I will be leaving my original Samsung NVMe drive in its current slot. I will then use EaseUs partition master to "Migrate OS". Here's my questions:
1. Its my understanding the the "migrate OS" option will move everything including the "EFI System", "Reserved" & "WinRE tools" partitions. Does anyone know for sure if this is true? Will the Samsung data migration tool accomplish the same thing? I'm getting conflicting answers in my searches as to whether ALL partitions will move with these tools.
2. Lets suppose all partitions migrated or I find another tool to assure they do. Its my understanding once this is complete, I would restart and boot into the bios and select the new drive as the boot drive, I took a look and think I know how to do this part. BUT, since I still have both drives installed, the old drive will still have a boot partition on it. I'll basically have 2 exact copies of everything on 2 different drives. So, will this cause any conflicts or problems even though I selected to boot off the new drive? This is the part that really worries me. I'd rather not have to re-open the unit and remove the old drive after migration if possible. So, can I copy/migrate everything to the new drive, boot from it then wipe the old drive?
Hopefully someone who has done exactly this can chime it. I will have a complete system backup on an external drive before I do anything.
Lastly, if your wondering why I want to move everything to the new drive its because it has better performance and I'd rather have the OS on the better performing drive.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

HI again
After more thought, I have another (maybe worse) idea. Since I have a system image on an external HDD, I could just wipe my current drive, shut down, install new drive and recover my system image onto the new drive.

I already have a bootable USB drive.

I connect usb drive and HDD, boot from usb and go to recovery options and I think it will ask me to select the image or it may search for a select the image for me, I'm not sure. So here's my question, I created the system image with Easeus, will the windows recovery tools recognize THAT image and copy it or do I need to create the image with Windows own tool?

 

I have a Easeus image on my internal HDD and have created an entry to it via Visual BCD editor. So I can choose it when rebooting if needed - SSD boot takes 7 seconds, HDD 1.5 mins...So an internal device is much easier to use. My old laptop has eSata so I can boot it from external drive.

 

If you have a backup of your current OS etc you can restore the backup on the new SSD. But IMO my advice would be to do a clean install. I did so many of those to my GS75 during testing and I did went through 3-4 SSDs. It's so easy to do a fresh install nowadays haha.

 

Did a bios update to the latest on the msi support site. After it i had issues with windows stability, it would freeze completely and display weird gemoetric figures and colors. I pressed the button on the back of the laptop and it did nothing.

Windows restore fixed the issue. After this i did EC firmware update to latest on the msi support site.

Now i don't know if it was before or after EC update. But sure as heck after the ec firmware update, the fans were very audible and my overall temps 20C hotter. I flashed back to a 105 firmware instead of the latest 107, and it is still the same.

I don't know what the hell to do. How can i go back in bios version as well?

 

I found many answers, first, the answer to this is NO. The emergency boot drive I created with EaseUs will recognize that image, Windows tools will recognize an Image created by Windows tools only

 

Thought I'd share exactly what I ended up doing:

Upgrade or Add NVMe SSD - MSI GS65 Stealth and other models for free using Windows built in tools

Process, problems, questions and the solution I found:

I wanted to outline the process I followed, the HUGE problem I encountered and the solution I found, in case it helps someone else. Follow my process at your own risk. Also, anyone who wants to chime in as to where my process could have been altered to avoid the error I encountered or to just do it an easier way, please do.

Some background: My unit had a 512GB Samsung NVMe SSD installed when I bought it, it performs very well. I was running out of memory and bought a 1TB Samsung EVO 970 Plus to install in my second NVMe slot. I had questions as to whether the second slot would offer the same performance, without getting into details, it does, meaning I didn’t need to swap slots to be sure the OS was not only on the new drive but in the “correct” slot. Knowing that the new drive has better benchmarks, I thought it would be wise to move the operating system from the old drive to the new one and use the old one for data. Before you say it, I didn’t want to do a fresh install because I have spent way too much time tweaking my system to start from scratch, this includes group policy, registry hacks, advanced Bios settings, etc, so save your breath with the “re-install windows” comments. So there was the plan, install my new SSD and move an exact copy of the OS to it and wipe the current drive (con't...)

 

1. Since I bought a Samsung, they have a free data migration tool I could have used. However, from my searching, there was some question as to whether that tool would copy ALL partitions from my old drive, even their instructions raise that question and I wanted an exact copy so I looked for another route.

2. I found EaseUs software, however, the free version won’t do it and don’t get fooled by the free trial of the pro version, it only “shows” you what it would look like and prompts you to pay for the version to actually do it.

3. So what I decided to do was use windows built in tools to do it. What you’ll need: A bootable usb flash drive with your version of Windows on it. You can create this for free> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...-windows-99a58364-8c02-206f-aa6f-40c3b507420d and an external Hard drive large enough to hold a windows image.

4. After I got the new drive installed, downloaded and installed the Samsung driver and cleaned up and updated my computer and made sure everything was running smoothly, I then used windows built in “Backup & Restore” to create an image of my entire drive. I also used EaseUs Todo Backup Free to create an image of the entire drive. I did both because I planned to use EaseUs to restore the image onto the new drive but feared their “free trial” wouldn’t actually do it, thank god I did both (more on this later). I also used EaseUs software to create an “Emergency WinPE” bootable USB drive.

5. OK, I’m now ready, I have 2 images on an external hard drive and 2 different bootable usb drives. Next step is to change the boot order in the bios so the unit would boot from the usb drive (google it if you don’t know how, its easy to find). I did this and used the Windows usb drive to boot. I thought the best path would be to wipe the old drive now, so I would have 2, “clean” empty drives, then boot from the EaseUs flash drive and restore my system image to the new drive. Here’s what I did: (con't...)

 

After booting from the windows usb, the first screen is language etc, click OK/Enter, on the next screen it offers to install windows, don’t do that, look in the bottom left for the “repair your computer” link. Click that, then troubleshooting, until you find the “command prompt” option. Click that, then to erase the old drive, enter these commands (ignore the quotation marks)

"diskpart" DISKPART will launch.

Type “rescan”, enter

Next, type "list disk", enter

Find your M.2 in the list ("DISK #", in my case I could tell by size, if you have 2 identical drives, make note of which one you want to erase before you get this far).

Type "select disk #" where # is your disk number, ex. 0, 1, 2 etc., enter

Type "clean", enter. Your M.2 is now wiped. This next part is important.

Type "convert GPT". (I’m not actually sure this is important but I did it anyway, don’t think it hurt anything)

Type “exit” to exit Diskpart, Type “exit” again to exit command prompt then shut down.

6. Now I have 2 empty drives, so the plan was plug in the EaseUS bootable disk I created and restore the image to the new drive. When I tried to boot from this USB it booted directly to the Bios, total failure. IMO, erasing the old disk prevented the EaseUS flash drive from being able to launch, (please chime in if you have any ideas why the EaseUS disk would not boot but the windows usb would?). Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, thank god I created 2 images. UPDATE: turns out the flash drive with the EaseUS image on it was defective.

7.Next, I Shut down again, inserted the Windows USB and booted from that, again, going to the repair your computer link then clicking the option to restore an image. (of course I plugged in my external hard drive with the image on it after I booted). The Windows tool searched for and found my image, I followed the prompts and when I was confident, clicked start (or whatever it says to execute) and an ERROR screen pops up, says something about no drive detected that can accept the image and gives some advice including not excluding a drive (which I had done). I excluded my old drive to prevent the image from installing right back where I removed it. I’m irked, thinking I need to go back and re-install my image to the drive I just erased thinking that for some reason I can’t use the new drive. So I follow the process again, this time excluding the new drive, same error, tried again not excluding either drive, same error. So there I sat with 2 images on an external hard drive and 2 NVMe drives installed in an awesome laptop and no way to get my operating system installed, YIKES! (No longer relevant, flash drive was defective>)So I get on another computer thinking, maybe if I can get the EaseUs drive to boot I can still use that to restore my image. I googled like crazy trying to find some way to use the Windows command prompt (which I could still get to using the Windows USB drive) to launch it since from some unknown reason it didn’t want to work as a bootable usb drive (BTW, I did test it before I did any of these steps and it did work). I never did find any way to get the EaseUs usb flash drive to work/boot but in my search. However, purely through luck, I found the SOLUTION to my problem…I came across a page describing a process I was not trying to do but it was talking about using some Diskpart commands so it garnered my interest, it had a couple commands I didn’t use previously and one of them intrigued me based on the error I was getting try to restore my image using the Windows USB drive. The command that stood out: “active”, the full description reads, “Type the following command to make the partition active and press Enter: “active” “ It just sounded like it might be related to the error I was getting, maybe my drive wasn’t “active” so the Windows tool couldn’t find it. Yes, it worked!!! Here’s exactly what I did:

 

Using the windows usb to boot again I followed the path to launch a command prompt and typed “diskpart” and hit enter to launch it, then

“List disk”, enter

Found my NEW disk in the list and typed “select disk #” where the # is your disk number, enter

Typed “clean”, enter (maybe this is all I had to do or maybe this step wasn’t necessary, I’m cleaning an empty disk so I figured it couldn’t hurt, BTW, it only takes a second, the “clean all” command is the one that writes all the zero’s and takes a long time)

Typed the “list disk” to confirm the correct (NEW) drive is still selected and press Enter (note: The output should include an asterisk (*) next to the selected drive)

Typed “create partition primary”, enter (again, maybe this was the key or maybe it wasn’t necessary, I’m not sure)

Typed “select partition 1” enter (since the drive was wiped and only one partition was created, it will be “1” no matter what)

Typed “active”, enter

Typed “format FS=NTFS label=Data quick”, enter

Again, I’m doubting I needed to do every one of the above steps to get the Windows restore image tool to work but it did the trick.

Then I exited diskpart and command prompt and went directly back to the option to restore the image, without excluding any drives, and the image was written to the correct/NEW drive. Remember, I made the NEW drive “active” in the diskpart steps I took so I did not shutdown or exit the Windows repair tools, I went directly back to the restore image option and crossed my fingers the image ended up on the NEW drive. It did.

Last step after the image is written and you start windows would be to adjust the partitions on the new drive and to initialize and format the old drive. That’s easier info to find so I’ll spare you (unless someone asks). This is the only time EaseUs benefited me, I used their free partition program to resize & extend partitions on my new drive and it worked fine

That’s all folks, I’m pretty sure I didn’t need to take every step I did to accomplish my goal and if you just pull out the relevant text from my post you could create a more condensed list to accomplish this task in fewer steps. I just wanted to share my experience and maybe some “experts” can chime in as to where I went wrong along the way even though after running a few extra commands, I did get it to do exactly what I wanted. Hopefully this helps someone some day.

Peace, Mickey

 

I’ve decided to install a second SSD as well, the Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB

My problem is the following: I did not put any thermal pad under it because I’ve read that it isn’t necessary. After installing, I’ve noticed that the idle temperatures are a couple degrees higher than the stock SSD, but nothing major. Then I ran a benchmark and it went up to 90 degrees during write speed checking... is this due to the lack of thermal pad? It seems a bit ridiculous tbh.. or did I just get a bad unit? The stock SSD with stock pad under it goes up to about 78 degrees during benchmark, which also seems hot to me but at least bearable. Any ideas?

Edit: Forgot to mention that I also heard a weird noise coming from inside the chassis while the benchmark was on, but as soon as I stopped it the noise stopped too.

 

I just checked my temps, EVO running 10c hotter but not dangerously hot. I haven't monitored it stressing it. I'd say give thermal pad a try. I will do the same when I feel like getting back inside.

 

One other thing I did was to keep all my fans running. I used to only have CPU fans on during idle/ low temps. I now have CPU fans always running, it makes a 10C difference overall.

 

I have ordered the thermal pad, it will arrive on Wednesday and I will install it straight away. I also ordered an Adata XPG SX8200 Pro and will test it against the EVO Plus. I’ll keep the winner and send back the looser.

 

I should probably mention this so that general users do get a general idea of what can happen with some NVMe SSDs- Temperature can have all sorts of weird effects on the drives. Some can simply throttle back and keep working, some "shut down" or get disabled partially as they cool down and then are usable again.

I had a 1TB HP 920 drive that kept failing during regular use with my GS75, but works like a charm on my desktop. On my laptop, it ran between 50-70 Celsius all the time, but on my desktop, with a proper heatsink and cooling, hardly breaks 30 celsius. The result is that it performs admirably fast and consistently on my desktop, but would constantly throttle and crash on my laptop.

Use heatsinks for your drives. Some use thermal envelopes and Thermal pads, they do work.

 

I do understand that a desktop PC has better cooling than a thin laptop. I wasn’t expecting 30 degrees in there but certainly not 90 either... especially only after 3-4 minutes of benchmarking. I have to measure the space to know whether I can put a heatsink on or not, because the GS65 is very thin. I expect the thermal pad to be enough to bring temps down to the 70’s which I’d be fine with but not more than that. (trimmed to cover controller only)

From what I know, the NAND flash likes to run hot during writing sequences, so if the drive’s temps are too low it won’t be able to perform at its maximum. When I say “likes to run hot”, I mean it actually prefers to be slightly higher in temps than usual. But not 90 degrees... 30 degrees might actually mean that your cooling solution might be too much for the drive... if it covers the controller and the flash as well at least. The flash should be exposed in order to allow it to run warmer to get full writing speeds. If your SSD is closer to ambient temps then you’re also hurting your SSD’s performance. The end of life data retention time will be cut in half in this case. The controller will throttle the drive if it’s too warm so that should be covered only. Most SSDs are rated at 40 degrees (not max) by JEDEC

 

In the meantime I switched the 970 EVO Plus to an ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro. It’s a half success. The drive idles in the 30’s and goes up to 60ish on full benchmark load. I’d consider this excellent, except for the fact that it runs at less than half the advertised speed (very consistent around 1550 for read and around 2250 for write). This should be 3500/3000. The disk is basically empty so it should currently produce full speed. At this point, it actually reads slower than the stock SSD and barely faster in writing. I’ve read a lot about this particular drive, was anyone able to successfully tackle the problem? Seems like I’m just very unlucky with this whole SSD situation... I’ve taken the laptop apart 4 times already in the past 2 days.

 

**NAHMIC 3** I'm sure it was already asked but I am having trouble locating the solution.

I can't get Nahimic 3 to work at all. It says device can't be found. I uninstalled it and tried re-installing it. Even tried the crazy complicated tutorial on MSI's site but their are no links to download! You have to use the Microsoft crAPP store. Any luck getting Nahimic 3 to work on the GS65, anybody have a solution, I really liked the effects of Nahimic idk why MSI cant ever update their drivers... Much Thanks in advance.

 

I'm sure it was already asked but I am having trouble locating the solution.

I can't get Nahimic 3 to work at all. It says device can't be found. I uninstalled it and tried re-installing it. Even tried the crazy complicated tutorial on MSI's site but their are no links to download! You have to use the Microsoft crAPP store. Any luck getting Nahimic 3 to work on the GS65, anybody have a solution? I really liked the effects of Nahimic idk why MSI cant ever update their drivers... Much Thanks in advance.

 

Each time I just think about re-opening my MSI GS65 (2019 edition) to remove/replace the SSD I get a sick feeling. I've done it once, no damage, no ill effects, but wish I wouldn't have had to, and it's been 2 years since. I'm glad new 2021 laptops mostly have the motherboard "right side up" lol.

 

Hi, I own a 2019 MSI GS65 and about to sell it. Had a few questions:
It has 2 SSDs (both Samsung 970 EVO Plus) - 500GB (the one where the OS is installed) and 1TB (storage, games, misc files).

I want to remove both SSDs (I've done it before, that's not my question) and put in a different 500GB SSD, as well as restore the laptop to factory settings (with that new SSD), before I sell it.
I know how to restore the laptop to factory settings, but that would do it on the existing Samsung 500GB SSD. How do I force the restore onto the other 500GB drive?

Thanks!

 

Do any of you guys use the laptop without its battery nowadays? Mine seems to be swelled and started pushing the touchpad upwards so i removed it in case of a fire hazard or something. I was wondering why my GS65 wasn't creaking like it used to, turns out, swollen batteries are very good for that job

The other thing is, my Firestrike and Timespy scores went way way down after all these driver and Windows updates. I was getting like 13000 firestrike and 5100 Timespy scores, now firestrike barely hits 11000 margin, and timespy is sitting around 4400. I know this has been mentioned here before, but so much time has passed and wanted an updated answer to the issue.

I don't use Dragon Center, custom aggressive curves with Silent Option, and using ThrottleStop with -150mV undervolt. I clean the fans once a year. Dunno whats going on.

edit: this was before flashing vBIOS to full mobile GTX 1070.

 

Exactly, as I've ran about every driver on my 1080 since 388.xx. The peak performance was around 425.11 - that's two years ago; now depending on the test the latest driver is down 1 -3 -5 -6%; more on DX11.

 

but do you have better image quality ?
some drivers - zero anti-aliasing / texture filtering "fake more performance"

 

I try to keep equal settings. This performance degradation has happened since 2004 with Geforce Go 5700, Geforce 6800 Go, Quadro FX 1600M, Geforce 260 mobile, Geforce GTX 680M, all of them.

 

i mean profiles inside the driver ,.,when missing - is used GENERIC profile

in NVIDIA inspector is all visible ,..,for my gtx1070 is this identical "new games + old drivers works better" but look blurry / AA method is ****
new drivers is little slower / but more stable fps+ better image quality -example

edit
only after adding "game profile" support does the settings for the game work, but it can affect performance

translation

edit 2
consider how many options there are for each program ,..new drivers - most time only new recommended setting / compatibility list is extended

here is more info
https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Nvidia_Profile_Inspector

,.,.,.,..
I just think this is the only difference OLD vs NEW drivers // affecting performance

 

The new drivers naturally get optimised to certain games and naturally are preferred.

 

Guys i have an irritating problem with my laptop. Dunno if you guys experienced something like this.

It began after flashing full GTX 1070 vbios to the machine, i've been experiencing a weird problem like this:

When i first turn on the laptop and login to windows, i immeditately launch google chrome and instagram webpage, scroll down a bit and then first, instagram freezes, i can move the mouse cursor and the chrome window around. Then after a second or so, the cursor and the pc itself freezes, google chrome window becomes all black then the all screen blacks out with white artifacts on the screen, monitor shuts down and after a second it recovers like nothing happened. I can use the machine just fine. Play games without a single problem. When i disable hardware acceleration and smooth scroll in google chrome flags the problem goes away but it does the exact same thing with VLC this time. After this happens for once, it never happens again on that session, until i restart the machine. Since i'm on mini Display Port with an external monitor, i think the GTX 1070 MaxQ driver is becoming unresponsive for a second, unmounts and then mounts itself back on. I never exceeded 100W Limit while on this VBIOS.

I flashed back the original VBIOS, but the problem still continues. I can play intensive games just fine, temps are all good no crashes whatsoever...3D Mark benchmarks & scores are all good and stable also. What might be the possible course of action here ? It does this even without the GPU overclock, with default clock values.

UPDATE: Using mozilla firefox instead of Google Chrome, does not reproduce this black screen issue. Gonna try some older NVIDIA drivers.

UPDATE: I've formatted the PC and installed a fresh OS but the problem persists. This is only happening while using external monitor via mini DP (didn't check HDMI) not internal screen.

 

Hi I have a msi gs65 and was messing in advance bios setting with undervolting the cpu. After restarting I got black screen (not even the msi logo showing up). The led indicator next to the power button is orange and after a while it fades and come up again. Did a messed the bios? Did try removing the cmos battery to reset the bios setting but no luck. Also the cmos battery has a very low voltage, around 80mV. Could it cause the laptop to not boot bios?

 

no need unplug battery for CMOS !!

45s power button when run -cmos reset
or try /fully power off / no AC -- EC reset "small button at the bottom" 30s
"or 30s .,.,,.30s -2x"

orange status ,.,.GPU or dead battery
I don't know anymore

 

This doesnt work, will have to reflash the bios somehow. If its even possible...

 

Hi, been a while and I hope this thread is still monitored. I seem to recall there was an easy fix to the Nvidia graphics always in use problem (orange light always on). However, in this case, I'm not sure it will work if anyone remembers what it was and here's why: I updated to the latest Nvidia game ready driver and could not get the orange light to turn off. Tried the obvious things (checked to see what was using the gpu with Nvidia monitor). So i decided to roll back the driver in the device manager and this solved the issue.
So, anyone with this machine able to update the Nvidia driver to 471.41 released 7/19/21 and still get the unit to use the Intel graphics? Nvidia driver version from 6/8/21 (27.21.14.6677) does not cause this problem.
One last thing I found to be odd, in my troubleshooting I updated my Intel drivers (UHD 630) and in the command center it no longer "sees" my Nvidia GPU, even before the update it did not, it says, "1C20 Unknown". I know it used to "see" my Nvidia gpu so I think this may be a related problem.

 

This issue is related to the NVIDIA GeForce Experience.

I have the same, but this is not a problem since the control center supports only Intel graphics adapters.

 

People, let's ask MSI to release the latest firmware version NVM 46 for the Thunderbolt JHL6340 module.
The laptop has version 30 of the firmware installed.
NVM version 46 fixes the found vulnerabilities and improves the stability of the module. Unfortunately, the list of changes from version 30 to 46 is not publicly available.

At least four companies ( Intel, Dell, Lenovo, Panasonic) have released a firmware update to version 46 for the JHL6340 controller to protect against vulnerabilities and improve the operation of the module!

The MSI support service provided me with this answer: " Currently we have no schedule to udpate since we have no other feedback from other users and there is no clear symprom for this Intel security.".
If many users of the GS65 8Gen laptop ask to update the firmware to version 46, then MSI will definitely release the current firmware.
MSI is still updating the ME FW firmware for our laptop and can also update it for JHL6340 if we all ask MSI to do it...

 

Hi, I have a GS65 Stealth Thin (2018, 8RF). I can't seem to undervolt this laptop. I've set the BIOS, and set CPU overclock to "enable" and also XTU extensions. I've even tweaked the BIOS and tried undervolting there, but HWiNFO64 doesn't register the voltage offset at all.

I can tweak the Turbo Ratio Limits in FIVR, and that does seem to work. If I set it down from 41x (default) to 36x or so, I can get the temps down to the 80s, although the fans seem to be doing the work (custom curve using Silent Option).

Undervolting seems more efficient than governing my CPU below specs.

I'm thinking it that my efforts to keep the BIOS and EC up to date implemented some BIOS lock related to Plundervolt. But I don't know.

Also WIndows 11 (22000.194). Can that have something to do with it?

 

There is no protection against Plundervolt in the BIOS v.112.
Try disabling Windows Subsystem Linux for the test and let us know about the result.

 

Thank you. Turns out it was Intel Virtualization. I turned it off in the BIOS, and it gave me the ability to undervolt. I was using WSL2, and I also happened across people saying the Win 11 and WSL2 was causing it, and also read that disabling V-t and/or Intel Virtualization in the BIOS returned undervolting ability. WSL2 was my main reason to going Windows 11, and so now I have to weigh the ability to access WSLg vs the ability to undervolt. We'll see when the Win11 beta ends, and I have to decide to return to Win 10 or stick with 11 if it even lets me.

After some testing, I was able to get a stable underclock of -0.1406 volts. CPU still runs hot in the low 90s C, about 91C under stress. The fans go full keel, but there is a clear performance boost at the same temps. I'm not getting the same amount of throttling (stuttering in games) either, just an occasional hiccup.

I lowered the Turbo Power Limits from 41x to 39x and it works to keep the temps from going over 90C. I would have to lower them to 36x before undervolting to keep the same temps, it was pushing 94C with the fans at AUTO (via Silent Option) before, and throttling/stuttering like crazy.

I plan to do more testing, I'm sure I'm due for a repasting also. I still feel like 90C with the fans blazing is probably too high. What else should I try? I'm still getting a yellow "Thermal" under CORE and a yellow "EDP other" under RING when stress testing.

 

The Intel Thunderbolt support service provided me with an answer: " We have forwarded your message internally to recommend MSI to make this update, but ultimately it is MSI’s decision. ".
Intel itself recommends that you Release a Thunderbolt firmware update.

 

Has anyone gotten Corsair Force MP400 (NVMe M.2) SSD to work in their GS65 Stealth Thin?

I have been unable to get my new 4TB Corsair Force MP400 SSD to work in my GS65 Stealth Thin (8RF-015NE) -laptop, which was bought in 2018.

I have Windows 10 installed on the laptop's original 512GB Samsung PM981 SSD (NVMe M.2, MZVLB512). The laptop goes into a bootloop, when restarting the laptop with Corsair Force MP400 SSD installed. Curiously, the laptop doesn't even boot from an USB stick, when the Corsair SSD was installed.

The full details of this problem can be read at the thread that I created:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...stealth-thin-laptop-combability-issue.836935/

 

Any feedback on upgrading to Windows 11?