The Official MSI GT60 & GT70 Owners' Lounge

Good afternoon everyone. I've been a fairly happy owner of a new GT70 for a month now. Hasn't always been a smooth ride but I've managed to work through all the "normal" problems (SMC errors, disabled nvidia graphics, Having my ice cold Redbull on the left side of the notebook, and Win8 in general)

For the most part, the only problem I can't seem to figure out is the intermittent wireless internet drops. I've tried to correlate the drops with my cell phone, or my wife's laptop or the microwave. It just seems random. I've pulled the sub-par wireless card that came with this laptop with a Intel advanced-n 6235. My wife's older Dell XPS 16 has had zero connections issues using an advanced-n 6250 wireless adapter. I've updated drivers, moved the router (which still isn't in the best place but reception has never been an issues for either notebook) and even analyzed the neighborhood wireless clutter using inSSIDer.

Anyone else experience this? Only thing left that I can think of is faulty internal antennas? I guess I could upgrade to a 6300 and run a 3rd antenna, but would rather not. Right now the internet has been stable and pulling strong downloads.

 

I don't think antenna is the cause of the problem, there are many factors and sometimes it has something to do with system standby too.

I recently experienced similar issues with 6235 after I install the Intel driver version 15.4.1.1. What I did is install different version and change the wireless adapter power saving mode to Maximum performance and disable Allow device to save power fixed the problem.

 

I had encountered the same wireless drops with my GT70 which you are experiencing.
Once I switched my AV (Avast) the problem was solved.

 

Hey guys I need some help. My friends unable to bootup his MSI GT70.
Here's what he's seeing when booting up the laptop.
Since I don't know much about computers I was wondering if someone else could have an idea what the issue is.

 

One of his ssd in the raid 0 setup failed. Open up the bottom panel and reconnect both ssds. On that screen press ctrl i and delete the raid volume to make the ssds usable. Then reinstall windows with a bootable usb or the windows install disk

 

Great, thanks for the quick response!

 

Hello guys! I'd bought this spetacular machine, msi gt70 0nd-444-us, and i'd bought a samsung 840 seires pro 256gb ssd. I've read all topics refeered to the install ssd subject but i'm still having some doubts.

First: in what port should i install it in my model?

Second: I have to run the lmp fix to make my sata 2 works as sata 3 on this model?

Third: I wanna format my hdd and install a fresh install oh win8 in my ssd. Can anyone send me the steps for installing like this?


Sorry for poor english and i'll apreciate any help!

 

First: install it in the port right next to the GPU, away from the keyboard backlight cable, furthest one from the cpu
Second: you'll have to try it to confirm it, simply install windows 8 and download AS-SSD benchmark, and test the ssd in each port (I personally have a copy of windows installed in an esata drive to run benchmarks for the ports)
Third: if you have an OEM windows 8, it is most likely that you won't get to download the iso file, but still try it: Upgrade to Windows 8 with only a product key - Microsoft Windows, if this link doesn't work, try this: Upgrade to Windows 8 - Microsoft Windows, if both doesn't like your product key, get 5 posts to send pm, pm me and I'll help you getting the installation files.
Before a clean windows 8 install is performed, make sure you don't format your HDD beforehand for obvious reasons, and confirm your BIOS version, for version 50/70(x) and boot option set to UEFI, Windows 8 Upgrade ISO - Download or Create, for version 10/30 , just follow the setup guide on microsoft How to download Windows 8 - Microsoft Windows, if the OEM product keys can't get you started on downloading windows 8 setup files, PM me with your BIOS version and boot option(legacy BIOS/ UEFI, if no such boot options exists in the BIOS menu, it is legacy bios)

alternatively you can use disk cloning software such as macrium reflect and disk alignment tool such as paragon alignment tool to make an exact copy of your HDD, but if you do so make sure you physically disconnect your HDD after completing the disk clone before booting up again, or else the drive letters will be so messed up that you cannot boot into windows without learning how to use diskpart in recovery command prompt(list volume, select volume, remove drive letter, assign drive letter, active). I've personally ed up my drive letter a lot when disk cloning, in which I'm glad I have a tablet to search for the proper commands to restore them to normal state....

 

thanks a lot!! i did not understand all of it lol bout let me ask in parts: can u pm me the instalation links? and i have to put the ssd on the place of hdd to get sata3 speeds??

 

MSI Notebook GT70 --- Disassembling - YouTube the HDD she removed on 0:51-1:00 is the one with the sata 3 slot
the installation link is the 1st 2 links on my reply, try both: (here) Upgrade to Windows 8 with only a product key - Microsoft Windows (here) Upgrade to Windows 8 - Microsoft Windows (here)
1st link: scroll down and click on install windows 8 then follow the instructions
2nd link: click on download upgrade assistant

Both downloaded setups will require your product key to start downloading the installation files (yes, you download an exe file to setup a platform for downloading windows 8, which verifies you product key before downloading windows 8)

If it comes back at you that your product key is invalid, I'll send you my ISO file to test installation. But the clean installation method is different depending on the BIOS settings, upon restarting your computer, press [del] to enter BIOS setup, there you will see your BIOS version, use your arrow keys to navigate to the boot tab and under the tab you will see your boot option (legacy bios or UEFI), I'll be needing the BIOS version and boot option (legacy bios or UEFI) in order to tell you how to clean install windows 8, if you don't see the boot option reported (nowhere in the BIOS telling you whether you are using legacy bios or UEFI to boot) then you are on legacy bios.

 

my bios is 5.0.3 version and is in UEFI ode (i'd like to install a clean instlation under uefi mode! I've buerned a dvd with win8 image created from the links above, but i couldnt boot from dvd to start a clean start on ssd!

if i made this copy from hdd to ssd, and restore my windos 8 in ssd with the hdd disconect and after plugs the hdd and format it, shoul work?

 

Windows 8 ISOs msdn

x64:
http://dl.msdnaa.undipcyber.us/software/Windows_8_Pro_EN-US_Retail_x64.ISO

x86:
http://dl.msdnaa.undipcyber.us/software/Windows_8_Pro_EN-US_Retail_x86.ISO


EDIT:even though the ISOs are named as Windows_8_Pro a Core(non pro) serial key can be used to install the non pro version from media created from the ISO.

Install W8 using the Core key that's on a sticker under the battery or embedded in the bios or a W8 Pro key

 

check PM, and thanks for that geniune msdn

 

Thanksa lot for the help guys! inclueded the pm qwery! Just one more question: can i use the LMP fix to make my HDD that is on sata's 2 port runs as sata 3?

 

Like i said, you will have to try it to know it, just boot from both locations and run ssd benmarking tools to see if it is at full speed, as_ssd benchmark is so far the fastest way of doing it

 

Ok i got it! Thanks!

One last question lol, i got to install a clean install win8 pro on my ssd but i did not format hdd, so when i boot my pc, shows me for choose between two windows instalations. On my hdd has a recovery partition of 600mb, a recovery partition of 20gb, an os install partition of 675gb and a efi system partition of 300mb. Can i format all of the partitoins on hdd?


Thanks again for all help!!!

 

Physically impossible.
______

Windows 8 is best installed on a new SSD from a USB 3.0 flash drive in a USB 3.0 port when the old hard drive is removed.A USB 2.0 flash drive will be slower but will do the job also.

Create the flash drive using a verified ISO with Microsoft's USB/DVD Tool.

The best/fastest USB 3.0 flash drive currently on the market is the SanDisk Extreme but 16GB is the smallest capacity available..

Run your notebook with only the SSD in it until you are happy with it's operation.

Then,after your satisfaction with the SSD,you can format the hard drive to use as storage or an additional OS.

Use the MSI Burn Recovery program if you want to save the factory made recovery partition on the hard drive.

If you have trouble installing Windows 8 with UEFI bios try formatting the SSD with GPT partition.On EFI systems, Windows can only be installed to GPT disks

UEFI (Unified Extensible Firmware Interface) - Install Windows 8 with

 

things you have probably checked already: desktop, right click, screen resolution, single monitor(not multiple)
hdmi to hdmi connection

 

Hey guys. I've had my GT700NC-008US for almost a year now and now I'm looking to upgrade the hard drive space. I was wondering how many total I can put in there. I believe you can put 2 msata for sure. I was wondering if I could throw another ssd in there and then keep the 750gb that came with and move it over to the optical tray? I have an external blu ray burner that I picked up on black Friday for 50 bucks so I don't mind getting rid of the optical drive since it's barely getting used. I'm just trying to maximize hard drive space since I travel back and forth for work a lot and forgot my external hard drive at home. If someone would point in the right direction that would be awesome. Thanks.

 

Yes you can put an HDD in the optical drive bay. You need a caddy for the HDD that holds the hard disk on a tray-like holder.

 

Don't just believe that you can put 2 msata drive out of the blue, check the dual msata slot on the top left https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/..._KvOUe7HR06-ek_remEFj43aSg9na2e7w_ACZToaFgVCQ and the standard sata slot http://imgsrc.baidu.com/forum/w=580.../c2cec3fdfc0392454dc3e52f8694a4c27d1e259f.jpg, (if you can't be sure just see if the slot is black or white, white means dual msata and black means sata)

This needs to be verified because it is not rare that someone buys a SATA SSD only to find a dual msata slot or those who bought an msata finding a sata slot, I've seen a lot of them posting to ask just after they noticed the SSDs don't fit, and people laughing in front of the screen

 

Well thanks for letting me know before I just went ahead and placed my order. I just opened it up to be on the safe side and I probably would have been one of those guys you're talking about. So I can just toss in 2 2.5" drives in now which is fine with me. I can just grab one of those universal caddy holders on ebay or amazon correct?

 

yes you can, make sure it is the 12.x mm caddy not 9.5

so you can have a total of 3 drives in your laptop, 2 of them being sata2 and 1 at sata3 speed

 

That's correct, so you want to avoid raiding SSDs in them but instead go for a single larger drive.

 

Hello everyone,
I've recently bought the GT70 OND, and I am very satisfied with it. My first gaming laptop.
I have searched this thread and the other, the GTX680 one, but I don't see anyone complaining about these subjects except some about the winsxs folder...
I'm having screen tearing issues when trying to play games or watch movies in my TV through HDMI in clone mode.
One solution I found was to set the TV as a primary display, but I want to use the clone mode. My desktop PC is much older, with a HD 5770 , and it does not present any quality difference when linked to the TV, a LCD FullHD, through a HT receiver. Tried to activate vertical Sync as suggested in other forums, but the intel graphics panel does not have any reference to this. And I coudn't set windows media player or wmp classic to be opened with GTX 675. Anyway, the games wich open only with 675 also presented screen tearing in the TV.
Other questions regard the THX TruStudio Software. Does it work with the HDMI Output? Do I have to configure the audio settings (speaker settings) every time I want to link HDMI output to a home theater system?
Last one is about that winsxs folder, that takes 25GB of the already small 128 SSD and Windows takes other 20GB. Is that the reason why most people here are talking about upgrading their SSDs??
Does a clean install can solve this issue? Cause that's kinda revolting, you pay for the 128 GB SSD that can only fit windows and office...
I'm sorry about the big post and lots of questions, and for the english, not my native language...
Thanks in advance

 

@Magorei I don't have your display issues, then again I don't use the MSI Nvidia drivers but the latest from another source
For the winsxs folder, you can clean that one up quite a bit instructions here : Cleanup the WinSxS Folder in Windows 8 & 7 - Help Desk Geek (easier than typing it myself)

I'm going to upgrade my Superraid too (I'm I the only one who thought they developed something truly amazing by using 2 SSD's and the traditional HD, when I heard superraid I thought they would like the 3 disks together the SSD's for speed and the traditional would be partitioned in 2 HD's one as a raid 1 for the 2 SSD's and the remaining disk as bulk storage) Anyways not the point.

I'm going to place 2 msata Crucial M500 240gb instead of the relatively slow SSD's in it now. I was wondering if I would put a third M500 in the sata II slot and let it all work as raid 0 if that 3rd disk would speed things up, or due to the sata II slow it down... I'm guessing somewhere in between (seq reading lower but random higher?) anyone experience with this?

or instead using a 2.5" SATA dual Mini PCI-e intel mSATA SSD Raid controller and getting 4 Msata drives.

 

the bottom slot is SATA 2 speed, and raid 0 will make all raided drives work at the slowest one's speed, thus if you raid 2 SATA3 SSDs and 1 SATA3 SSD in a SATA2 slot you would get a maximum of 3*SATA2 bandwidth, whereas 2*SATA3 raid at max bandwidth beats it by miles, also the 2.5" SATA dual Mini PCI-e intel mSATA SSD Raid controller is going to work at the max bandwidth of the SATA port you connect to, which is still SATA2, by simple division you should be getting SATA1 speed on both the msata SSDs(what a shame), it is the ports that you connect to that limits your speed, and sadly raid is not a simple add or subtract speed, it is multiply the minimum speed by the number of drives

 

I got my GT60 yesterday and it performing great the only issue i have is setting the graphics settings for some games. even on low settings the fps don't go over 60 on any of my games according to Fraps

 

Are you playing with it plugged in? Making sure that in the Nvidia Control panel that you have the .exe for the games set to run with the dedicated card?

 

yes it is plugged in and yes it is set up under the nvidia control panel what else should i check

 

Check your temps. If the machine is reaching its thermal threshold on the GPU or CPU it'll start throttling the respective component and causing it to perform not as well. You can also take a look at installing the latest drivers for game fixes. What games specifically are you seeing this in?

 

temps are 70s and the games i have installed right now are skyrim and crysis 2 which it is doing it on both and i have the latest drivers intalled

 

What GT system specifically is it that you have?

 

GT60 OND-250US i orderd it from xotic pc it has a gtx 675m in it

 

Also, when you say you're getting in the 70's, is that the CPU temp, GPU temp, or overall system temp?

 

GPU Temp was 70 and cpu temp went to 62 at its highest what seems to be the problem it is like the games are locked at 60fps

 

Figured I might as well post this here....The custom cooler I made for my GT70 while at home.

I really wanted a good cooler for my GT70 while I was at home. I generally use it mostly at home, but I do take it to work with me every day as well. I wanted something that was simple enough that I didn't have to fiddle with switches all the time, or with plugging it in, and still provided very good air flow. Long story short, there were no good solutions commercially available. Targus, CoolerMaster, and many others, were basically just fans that blew air at the bottom of the laptop. This really doesn't help airflow much, if any to be perfectly honest.
So I drew up in Autocad, a simple box. From there, it morphed into what you see below in the pictures. The actual plastic part took the most time, simply because custom fitting everything really is a pain in the butt. The wiring was actually very easy and simple. I added the switch, so that I never have to do ANYTHING to turn this on, just place the laptop there and it turns the fans on. The power supply is a wall wart that can output +12VDC@800 mA, more than enough to run the fans and some LED's eventually. I haven't finished the LED's yet, as they require a bit more time to get all the wiring done properly.
Overall, I don't have any temperature information on how much it might help at this point, and I'm not sure I want to dig that deep. I'm very happy with the solution, and once I get the LED's added, I'll be sure to post more pictures.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...cshPgewU79s/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081749
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...LbwLreSDvWI/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081736
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AvCkIztYLAU/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081724
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...HXEGCPDp604/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081641
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...TuV4C5ye3Ro/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081631
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...N1Lfy5VYmqo/w1045-h784-no/IMG_20130515_081620

 

Very nice cooler mate! I might try it out as a personal project sometime

 

That does look very nice but it wont have a significant impact on the temperatures unless you modify the bottom cover to allow more air.

 

Both induced and forced draft fan eh?

I still like the Cooler U2 and U3 quite nicely for what they are.

 

I originally thought the same thing......

Then I tried it, and it really does make a huge difference. The 2 fans actually aren't high performance fans in any way, they were taken from an old Lian Li case that I switched out the fans.
I went from originally only being able to have a safe overclock on the GPU Core clock of around 941 MHz, and that would generally cause me to get to around 70 degrees C during a game.
With this fan setup, it allowed me to easily break the 1 GHz GPU Core clock AND kept my temperatures around 63 degrees C during a game.

That's a pretty drastic difference, especially given the fact that I pushed the overclock further as well.

Honestly, I'm quite happy with the cooler now. It is completely quiet, the loudest part is actually the switch when you put the laptop on the cooler. So that's just a huge bonus, I'd be willing to bet that I could game without using the fan boost on the laptop now.

Keep in mind, that the entire cooler is lined with weatherstripping to make a good clean contact with the edge of the laptop, and effectively cause a good tight seal, such that all air is forced out THROUGH the vent behind the laptop. The rest of the cooler was actually sealed with some clear sealant as well.

Lets just say that if you wanted to push the laptop to the max without modifying the actual laptop itself, this is a very great way to do it.

For what it's worth, I have considered buying another bottom panel and removing some more of the plastic and adding a bit more 'venting' to it. Hmm...that gets me thinking more....

 

Those are incredible temps, I am jealous!

 

Have you disabled v sync? If not, then you are limited to 60 fps, which is your LCD refresh rate. You can disable it and the game will go as far as it can, however you might get tearing issues (horizontal split across the screen) because of the mismatch in refresh rate and frames being drawn.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

I would love to see some temp monitor screen shots, those are very big claims at 1ghz clock speeds, what game was this temp monitored? Was it using vsync?

 

Hi guys, I posted similar reply like a month ago, but I haven't got any answers from it. My question is I currently own GT70-0ND-444US model and getting about 94C temp when I play new-hardcore games (like tomb raider, etc) I am worrying about my comp's temp but when I contact MSI, they told me it doesn't really matter if I am not getting any errors from high temp. Anyway, besides it is 'okay' to bear with that temp, I want to get a decent laptop cooler that cools off this laptop very well. I have been looking 'ThermalTake Massive LX 23' and 'Cooler Master NotePal X2', but I could not make decision out of it. Thermaltake one has bigger fan, but cooler master one has good review on Amazon Any suggestions for laptop cooler?

 

They wont really make an impact if your cooler is not performing the best, it sounds like you need to check that all the thermal pads are totally flat and redo the thermal paste.

 

I'm not an expert on disassembling, but is it easy to disassemble GT70 and redo the thermal paste? And If I do it, which thermal paste do you recommend?

 

iC diamond is the best thermal paste

 

On MSI's forums they have a disassembly guide for the GT70 and GT60 (and a number of other laptops). There you can see how easy (or hard) it is to disassemble.
I've done it on mine, it's not hard. About a total of maybe 20 screws and you're done. Not nearly as bad as one would think.