The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

My 6820hk run at 4.1ghz, -45mV without any problem. But 4.2ghz, -45mv or -0mV end in crash too

 

If you remember, I had that issue with Starcraft 2, too. I don't play it at the moment. The only game I am playing is Heroes of the Storm, where I don't have black screens at all.
Do you have a list with the problematic games? Perhaps I can test another one of it.

 

@Shehary @Kevin@GenTechPC

MSI Fixed the BIOS version, now it's back on 313 as the latest

 

finally some progress and btw where does the BIOS go with Note "Add memory frequency item in BSU"...

it means there was actually no BIOS update at all....may be laptop RMA numbers dropped and MSI thought let's release an old BIOS with new description which definitely brick some laptops and we will be back in business....

and this whole confusions is just because of BIOS name, MSI using same name "E17A1IMS" for both 6Rx and 7Rx lineup and their inhouse engineers thought why not with 7Rx series BIOS version we will go with DESC order...but in the end even they are confused and don't know which way they have go and which one is latest version....

 

thank you mate.

 

I know of the issue with the RAM and yes it was mainly the desktop variant but I wondered if maybe that was my problem... Unfortunately I had the RAM that didn't have the issue ( I believe it was samsung IIRC)

Now that is interesting!!! My GPU still over clocks up to high 1800s even with my OC set to +0. I didn't think much of it but back when this first started with starcraft 2 I would go look at the graphs from MSI afterburner when it crashed and noticed there was a huge voltage drop and then bounced back up everytime it black screened and thought it was a voltage problem. Something not handling voltage properly when there was a sudden spike in load which would also explain the massive FPS drops when this happens. I won't lie, I am very excited to try this Vbios out tonight! I've never had problem with temps (63C highest while testing TW3 on highest settings) but like I said, I thought it was a voltage problem in the beginning having to do with sudden load spikes and it never happened while on an easy game (1250Mhz @ 53% for instance) or on games where nothing ever creates a sudden load spike. Counterstrike source is an old game that even my old 660M could run at max settings @ 100fps so the 1070 handles it without even trying and with the CS source engine, nothing ever happens to create a sudden load spike, it's a constant load through hours of game play. Whereas the witcher 2 or starcraft 2 or overwatch there are areas or events that cause a lot of different levels of increased load. TW2 for instance, every time it moved to a cut scene video, running with no frame limiter, it would black screen. By setting a frame limiter to 60 and lowering the graphic settings it seemed to stop the black screens on cut scenes by about 95%. So basically I just lower the size of the load spikes. Sorry for all the text, just trying to explain my reasoning on why I thought it was a load problem. I downloaded MSI afterburner originally to increase the voltage but it won't let me, I'm assuming I need a Vbios that will allow that.

In order of most consistent to least consistent (on highest settings, no vsync/gsync):
Black mesa (starting tram ride)
The Witcher 2 (cut scenes)
Overwatch
Starcraft 2 (special forces elite 5 in arcade..It's the only thing I play in SC2)
Diablo 3 (huge mob scenes with lots of explosions)

It's funny but the games that make it work hard and harder to instigate a black screen, maybe because the load is already high and fps is around 60-80 but anything that has very high fps like 120-250 usually results in a black screen when something happens all of sudden that increases the load a lot. Like it catches it off guard and it fumbles for 2-4 seconds and then recovers lol

 

Hey guys! Can I ask a really simple question even if everybody is busy discussing the new BIOS? What do you guys use to clean a hard to get dirt in your laptop's screen? There is something in my monitor that can't be cleaned by just gently rubbing it with microfiber cloth. What cleaning solution do you guys use? Thanks!

 

I use this spray

my 7 years old netbook, sometime i use just soap mixed water with tissue papers, first go wet tissue and 2nd go dry tissue to clean the screen...it's been 7 years and screen is still bright and shine...

 

Are Gaming Laptops worth it now? MSI GT73VR Titan!

 

I use a 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and distilled water, I even have found premixed spray bottles in a dollar store once, it works like a charm.

 

double again.. sorry

 

does anybode try to work with the Core Voltage in XTU?
If yes what is a good value?
at the Moment i test it with XTU Benchmark and can run 4.2Ghz with Core Voltage at 1.230V.

or is it better not to work with the core voltage?

 

If you have been planning to get a better or bigger SSD, might as well hurry.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/SSD-pr...16-percent-this-year-TrendForce.206816.0.html

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

You could also try doing negative overclocks for example like -150 on the core and see how it fairs.

 

Water usually does the job for me, if it's hard to remove then wipe it several times until it's gone.

 

+1 for water. I just sprinkle a little bit of water and wipe the screen.

 

Has anyone had any problem with intel xtu that doesn't maintain the assigned values? The default setting for Turbo Boost Power Time Windows is 28 seconds but mine always stays at 1 second. I have tried to change it several times but it always change itself to 1 second after reboot.

 

I was only able to do a small test yesterday and it was capped at 1645Mhz in Overwatch with the Vbios you gave me. I did 3 runs at 150 fps and no black screen! I was also using the latest 378.78 driver whereas the other day the 378.78 couldn't even be as high as 75fps without black screening and 378.66 was a bit more stable but anything higher than 75fps would cause a black screen.
So I'm getting hopeful but not too hopeful haha. It really does make sense about it being unstable with higher clocks and experiencing low voltage to make the driver crash and reset. Further data to back that up would be it only crashes at higher fps with general increased load to raise the clocks. The only game that has black screened at the 60fps mark was TW2 with the uber sampling selected and it runs at 1800+. I have a screen shot from awhile ago and it shows it clocked at 1886Mhz and I know I've seen it in the 1900s. Seeing as there little to no gain past 150Mhz, which would be 1795Mhz, and it being limited to 230w I am not surprised. I bet if I OC it +100 from the 1645 it will not black screen anymore (That is if it doesn't black screen anymore and it is fixed lol)

If the problem is fixed, does that mean my GT73 has a problem or something that will have a future failure?

 

Purchased this notebook 2 weeks ago and ran Fire Strike for the first time netting the following results http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12022234

Rather disappointed. This is the first gaming notebook I've owned so I'm sure it's user error in the settings (test was run at stock settings). What settings should I start looking at to improve the score?

 

@Shehary @Kevin@GenTechPC

The MSI GS73VR has a new firmware 17B1EMS1.109

Is this compatible with our GT73VR ?

 

Something is definitely off. Here is yours compared to mine. http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/12022234/fs/10863074 That was mine overclocked to 4.1. Your bus clock is about 5 times lower then mine. I think with everything stock mine was about 13,600. Try it with it set to turbo in Dragon Center.

 

Did a clean install of the GeForce driver and set and set Shift to Turbo in Dragon Center and pulled this result http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/18642014

What a difference!

 

That's more like it!

 

Well the vBIOS was released for that reason so theres probably a good chance that you're not the only one, and another alternative was to run with a negative frequency so GPU boost would be below a certain range. Not every GPU/CPU are created equal so having the same vBIOS on the card won't always work the way they're intended and you'll have a number of few who fall on a different bracket. Just remember that vBIOS and some default settings on motherboard goes on their standard range.. hence why some people are able to lower down voltages and run fine.

 

Until I'm able to create/find an optimized profile is there any downside to always having Shift set to Turbo or even Sport?

 

No, EC firmware also control battery charging and system power load along with fan speed...I'm 100% sure GS EC firmware not compatiable with GT series......flashing on GT73 minimun can cause system instability low fans RPM and maximum will brick the laptop....

I'm sure new firmware for GT series on the way....

 

I use a custom OC profile for gaming and in the past I would switch to another profile for normal use but I realized that if I'm not gaming it isn't really running at the turbo speeds so I leave it as is. I have found having a gaming profile in DGC is handy, when I load it it sets my CPU/GPU OC, sets the screen color profile, sets my Nahimic sound profile and launches MSI AB. This is the first time I have used this kind of software with any PC and although its not as fully functional as using XTU it gets the job done.

 

Alright so then there isn't any point of returning it since I don't see a difference in fps from before with the higher clocks anyways.

Update:

The laptop passed all tests so far! Played 4 hours of overwatch @80fps with no problems last night and this morning I tried the black mesa intro with all setting in the NVCP turned to max settings plus I overclocked it +150core/+400mem and not a single problem @ 1785Mhz. I tried it unrestrained, Gsync+Vsync, Gsync only, Vsync only and also tried all settings set to performance in the NVCP. I started from 250 mem and went up by 50 to 400 and stopped because I wasn't sure if I would start to see artifacts from the memory being too high or if it would just fry the memory even though some people have OC'd the memory to +600 on the 1070. I used MSI afterburner instead of DC and final OC is +106core/+250mem (1750Mhz). As I see it so far it is completely fixed and no noticeable change in performance. I could try clocking the core higher but now after knowing it was having problems at 1880+ with the other Vbios I don't want to go into the 1800s.

Thank you so much for your help Specialist7!!!

 

how do you remove the 3 screws that hold the 3 m.2 ssds as i've tried and doesnt come out
Thanks

 

I found a screwdriver from a set I bought to dissemble mobile phones, I don't remember the number of it though.

 

SSDs screws are M2.5 size so any screw driver 2.0, + shape can be used...

 

will using a 2.5 inch SSD and replacing the HDD damage the laptop, how long will the SSD last?
Thanks

 

i7 6820HK @4.1GHz
GTX 1080 (+200/+500)
16GB RAM 2400MHz

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/18668494?

 

Just like with every electronics it can last a long time or die in one day, but if we go based on SSD uses ,most SSDs will last a long time with regular use or rather.. you'll probably replace it by the time it dies or upgrade to something better. With that being said there are SSDs with SLC, MLC, and TLC nand memory storage types. Without getting much into details SSDs you write on the memory storage, the more you write in it the more it'll wear out. SLC being the more expensive/durable one, MLC is the most common one bought and lasts long and TLC being the cheaper/value that has decent endurance.

Once you install a game/program its on that memory and all the SSD does is read from it only writes that one time. If you do a lot of photo editing/rendering/encoding, downloading/deleting big files/videos etc.. then it will use up the write endurance quickly. SSDs dont generate a lot of heat, doesn't use as much power as HDD and since there are no moving parts its harder for it to fail.. with that being said SSDs can just die out of no where without warnings and they're unrecoverable as opposed to HDDs where they give you some type of warnings whether its a lot of errors, not writing, or hearing noises

The performance gained from SSDs are wroth it. There are NVME as well which is newer, faster, runs slightly hotter, and much more expensive. But as far as SSDs go, they're more than enough and you'll notice a big performance/response difference, especially in boot times and game loading times as well as quick program responsiveness.

1. Will replacing the HDD damage the laptop?
Nope, unless you damage it yourself , I replaced the HDD the day I got it with a 960GB SSD.

2. How long will the SSD last?
Depending on the quality, most SSDs will last its life. I'm pretty sure if I still had my Crucial C300 64GB SSD it would still be working to this day .

I've jumped around with a lot of MLC drives such as Samsung 830/840 Pros and they're pretty good, but after testing the performance and quality of TLC drives from non-pro/EVOs it doesn't matter to me anymore, but I only do regular use and gaming on this and not so much professional work. Since TLC drives are much cheaper after a few years I'll replace/transfer to a newer TLC etc... rather than just having one drive that lasts long but doesn't have newer tech boosts .

2.5" are nice but nowadays I'm slowly trying to move to all M2 for easy access/installation if price permits.


TL;DR: Buy SSD, Be Happy!

 

You're not getting away from have to use 2.5" SSD's if you want large enough storage. M.2 SSD's can not replace these yet. This will still take a long time. And the prices for SSD'S is still rising and will remain high for a while. And 2.5 "is soon up to 18TB. Forget similar with these smaller M.2. Yooo can have both as winnie the pooh said

 

So now you are an OC Doctor amd a cartoon specialist?

 

I can be what I want bro

 

Received replacement, this one also has 1 stuck pixel. is quality control this bad at MSI ?

 

I've not gotten a bad pixel screen for a long time, but most vendors won't allow a return for a single stuck pixel unless you've bought a special no-bad pixel warranty - they usually offer a 30 day initial guarantee, and then at year intervals for future failures all purchased with the laptop at the time of the initial sale.

Usually those warranty's are supported by the vendor checking the laptop before shipping - so you aren't "stuck" with a bad pixel

For example, newegg has an 8 pixel return policy:

"Television and Monitor Dead Pixels:
https://kb.newegg.com/Article/Index/12/3?id=1167

• Televisions or Monitors with 8 dead pixels or more can be returned for a replacement within 30 days from the purchase date."

1 stuck pixel won't be enough for a return - you can return any laptop for a 15% restocking fee, but a 0% fee return must have physical or functional cause.

Are you sure you can't live with it?

That's also why I don't recommend returning otherwise perfect laptops for another shot at a 100% perfect one, as those are rare.

There is always some kind of human imperfection that gives a laptop it's character.

And, you may like the defect in the replacement less than the defect you have in the one at hand.

At this point, check out the rest of the laptop, and if the stuck pixel is the only fault, consider keeping it.

You could also RMA with the maker, but each maker also has a minimum dead pixel limit.

BTW, those kind of defects usually are endemic in batches - all the LCD's of a manufacturing run might have the same defect. So, buy from another vendor, supplied from a different distribution source.

Or, buy from a vendor that offers the no dead pixel warranty.

 

It is just a bit disappointing and irritating that my $500 laptop is issue free and yet this premium priced laptop 2/2 has stuck pixel.

 

Yeah, I had that happen years ago, 2 bad screens in a row, so I switched re-sellers and picked from a different shipment batch and got a good one.

Does the seller offer a service to check the laptop before sending it to you? I assume they don't do that automatically since you have gotten a failure 2x in a row.

I'm surprised they let you return it for only 1 stuck pixel... and didn't actually check it out before sending you the 2nd one.

Here is an article from 2010 (kinda dated now) with some details about the dead pixel policy from a number of makers, unfortunately they don't list MSI:

We Uncover the Dead Pixel Policies for Every Major LCD Maker
http://www.tested.com/tech/1337-we-uncover-the-dead-pixel-policies-for-every-major-lcd-maker/

Here is MSI's listed policy for notebooks:
http://www.msimobile.com/warranty/2yr_notebooks.aspx

" LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Screen Bad Pixel Policy:
All notebook displays use TFT* technology, manufactured according to high industry standards, to guarantee trouble-free personal computing. Nevertheless, your display may have cosmetic imperfection that appears as small bright or dark spots. This is common to all LCD displays and cannot be avoided by any of our models. These imperfections are caused by one or more defective pixels or sub-pixels. MSI follows the common bad pixel policy from the industry.

Following the industry standard, MSI warrants a defective LCD display as having 5 or more bad pixels*. It's required that users to contact the original , or MSI within 30 days from the invoice date for a replacement.

* 5 abnormal pixels for 14" or smaller LCD display and 7 abnormal pixels for 15" or larger LCD display.
* TFT LCD is a variant of LCD uses Thin Film Transistor Technology to improve image quality."

 

You only have 1 deal pixel, and I've massaged out many dead pixels over the years, and helped others try it and successfully work them out over time - gently and without marring their screen.

I had a Dell laptop from a client that had a "bunch" of dead pixel's, some in a cluster, and I was able to work out all but 1 of those dead pixels over a few weeks - I might have gotten the last one fixed but the client had ordered a new laptop for me and when that came in I returned the "loaner" - the IT guy thought it was a cool enough idea to use internally, so they did

There are a number of online descriptions of how to do this, and I'll pick a few to have you check out - read over all of them to get the idea behind the technique before trying it.

And, avoid using real pressure that will damage the covering - abrasive rubbing will mar the surface coating or the plastic outside covering, so be careful or you will have a worse problem - a smeared screen that won't clear in that spot.

https://lifehacker.com/152062/fix-your-lcds-dead-pixels

http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor

When applying pressure with the pen cap method, find a wide dull blunt smooth cap - don't use the sharp end of the pen - or the pen tip itself - you'll get ink embedded in the plastic.

I just use a soft cloth between my finger tip - not finger nail - and the screen and gently apply pressure, release, and gently apply pressure.

There is a method for blocks of dead pixels that can work for a single pixel too - swirl around the area and through the area - through the soft cloth - but don't drag the cloth over the screen - it can be abrasive and mar the surface coating.

Cool, Linus made a NCIX video long ago, he only briefly shows a fix, missing the other techniques, but it's the easiest and least dangerous method, so try that first:

What is a dead pixel? (NCIX Tech Tips #55)


Linus also said something I haven't yet, the dead pixels often go away over time from use. That is another method btw, getting a program that cycles all of the screen pixels and some dead / stuck pixels respond to that method.

Good luck, and please let us know how it works out

 

Will try some life hacks to fix that 1 pixel, but regarding my experience with the previous one, I doubt it will work.
This pixel show correct colors at red and blue, however at black it shows green, at white it shows red and at green it shows black.

 

It's worth a try, refresh the page and look at my previous post, I put a youtube video link in it. If it's doing the same thing as the other display, it's sounding like a bad screen batch...

And, let me check if I can find a program that can help exercise those pixels, that sometimes works too.

Tackling LCD "burn-ins", and dead/stuck pixels
https://www.cnet.com/news/tackling-lcd-burn-ins-and-deadstuck-pixels/
"For stuck pixels, there are a variety of fixes that can help. The first and least intrusive is the use of a program that exercises the pixels. The popular " jscreenfix" program is a Java applet that will run a rapid pattern over a stuck pixel and exercise it to hopefully clear the problem. This can also be used for dead pixels as well, so download and try the program out (sometimes it can take a long time for pixels to unstick). Other programs you can use to test pixels are LCDtest, Pixel Fix, and Dead Pixel Tester."

I recall using jscreenfix... you drag the "fix" Window over the bad pixel(s), and leave for 10 minutes to fix.
http://www.jscreenfix.com/fix.html

Check'em out and let us know which one if any work, and check around for other tools too

 

To my experience wonder programs like that dont work in 70% of the cases. But I will of course try them out. On my desktop monitor I was able to fix the stuck pixel. However on this 2 laptops I don't think it can be fixed. On my desktop monitor there was a problem with the LCD crystal so pressure+the programs you mentioned were able to help. However I think that the issue is the same with both laptops: the transistor responsible for the green subpixel is not operating correctly. Because of this I see black pixel with green background and green pixel with black background (and red with white background). If this is the case than the transistor needs to be replaced which is not possible at home.
I have asked for a 3rd replacement just in case nothing helps...Amazon is currently out of stock and waiting for a new stock. Hopefully the new stock will be better because it is strange that 2/2 of these laptops from the previous stock has almost the same issue.

 

SSD im using is the 1TB Samsung 850 Pro 2.5 inch and the 500GB Samsung 850 EVO M.2 stick will those be good?

 

Try this:

http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

 

So something so just went very wrong with the DC or Bios. I turned off the GPU because I was on battery for awhile, when I turned it back on and it started back up with the GPU on the fans were OFF! No fan rpm at all! I'm glad I didn't restart it and walk away because in the short time of restarting and opening DC to change the OC profile to comfort it hit 57C. I turned on cooler boost and when I opened the advanced fan tab, all bars were set to 0%. I raised the first couple to 30% for cpu/gpu and the fans kicked in (I turned off cooler boost when it went back down to 29C) and fan speed went from 0/0 to 1500/1500.
I can click "auto" fan profile and the fans turn off! I have no idea what happened

 

It's some kind of bug in DGC, I only noticed it when, in DGC Fan set Advance Curve setting and switch on the laptop on battery...DGC auto swtich the fan profile to Auto and performance to ECO but if laptop shut down (remain on battery) and switch on while power plugged in... DGC change the fan back to Advance curve but both CPU / GPU all bars set to 0%...

Need to change the plan from Eco to High Performance and set all bars in Advance Fan Curve Setting....restart and issue will be fixed...remember it's not permanent fix...every time laptop use on battery and back to power...the same thing happen....

this bug has nothing to do with iGPU or dGPU switch.....

 

what were your temps?