The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Is the sound coming from the laptop (where exactly?), or from the power supply? It almost sounds like an electrical arc sound?, does it?

 

While we're asking...

Mine does the on/off like 3 times, when I'm switching which GPU is in use.

What about you guys?

 

If a sound isn't coming from then speakers It would have to come form a moving part or an electric arc, some kind of mechanical interference with the fans or something under the keys/button sticking, could you post a video of it happening?

I haven't seen anything like that.

 

The click sound is coming from Mechanical Drive while power loss, you can narrow it down by pressing power button and do force shut down (when laptop in booting state) and see if you hear same click sound..... (if you have a Mechanical Drive)

Also check your PCIe drives power loss count....that will also tells you how many times your laptop loss power....in a way...

@HardCoreGamer4Life are you using GeForce Experience...?

 

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No there should be no Problem for the future.

 

The fan is 2.6cm. GT72xx and GT73xx uses different heatsink and fan.

 

Haven't seen many talk posts regarding the GT73VR with SLI 1070 so here is the benchmarks out of the box, only thing I did was disabled G-Sync:

 

That graphics score is only about 5k short of @iunlock 's score when he was working on the machine. So the single 1080 seems a better pick, especially price wise.

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Hi guys, been reading the forum for 3 months now. I have 2 gt73vr. The first 1 were gt73vr 6rf 1080p 120hz which we send to usa for a repair because i bricked it when i try to upgrade the bios and got lost on shipping then decided to buy i new one gt73vr 7rf 4k 60hz display. Is it possible to change my 4k display to 1080p 120hz?

By the way my first gt73vr 6rf was found i gave it to my mother in hawaii. Im from the philippines. sorry for my english guys.


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Yeah no wonder there wasn't much talk about SLI 1070, I posted just for info.

It's possible to change the screen however, MSI won't do it because of the screen is tie to their SKUs and warranty.

 

Thanks for the good info!

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No problem my friend.

 

Oh so sad. Thanks. Gtx 1080 is not strong enough for 4k gaming with max graphics settings with gsync on.


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By the way kind sir what is SKU?


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I think it depends on what games you are playing. GTX1080 is the best you can get on laptop and if not enough there are SLI options. The new 10 series are more focus on VR stuff but of course it greatly improve game plays as well.

It was tested with MSI GT73VR Titan SLI 4K 423, 4K panel @60Hz with G-Sync but I disabled G-Sync just for benchmarking.

 

By the way, you can drop screen resolution from 4K to 1080p....all you need is to create a custom resolution in nvidia cpanel and set it default.....and you already have G-Sync......

Or

buy 1080p / 120Hz screen and replace it by yourself....screen will cost between $150 to $175..

.

 

one time

 

If i would buy a 1080p 120 hz panel. All i have to do is install it? No need to tweak bios or windows will automatically detect the new display?


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It's coming from the laptop, specifically below the power button (inside the laptop). I don't know what an electrical arc sounds like but if I were to describe the sound, it's like when you combine two pieces of plastic of a puzzle and they really fit each other. Have you heard the sound when you plug a cable that connects your router and PC? Or when you click the mouse pad of the laptop, it sounds like that. Is this normal? Or is something going on that might cause a problem if not fixed right away?

 

It doesn't always happen. There are times when it turns on immediately and just fine but most of the times it does what I described in my previous post. I'll get the "clicking" sound with the video if possible.

 

Yes I'm using GeForce Experience. What does this have to do with what I described in my post?

 

Remove (uninstall) GeForce Experience and see if your problem goes away....

 

Ahh, how about GT62/72 fan thickness?

 

That's where mine was coming from. It's kind of like an electronic switch opening and closing sound. I wish I could tell you why it stopped but I'm not sure.

 

Hi Guys,

I've bought a Samsung 960 EVO - 1TB for my GT73VR 6RE. Now i'm reading that the 3rd slot M.2 slot is a M.2 SATA slot (instead of M.2. NVMe) So the 960 EVO will never reach his potential. So I have to two options left. (I think)

First: Can I will remove the second SSD to make space for the 960 EVO? If yes.. don't I lose the data (even it it on Raid 0)?

Second: Or I clone/image the current data on those two SSD's and copy it to my 960 EVO to make it my main drive.

What is the best option? (or is there a easier option!)

Thanks for your help!

 

If your stock drive comes with it 2 nvme ssd in raid 0 then you need to clone that first to your 960 evo. If you only had 1 nvme like my unit i just plug my 960 evo to the 2nd slot of nvme ssd.


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Yeah, I have 2 nvme ssd (2x 128). So I plugin my 960 evo in the third slot. Clone the drive. Unplug the 2x 128 ssd. And put the 960 evo in a nvme slot. Do I also need to change something in the bios? And do you have a suggestion which tool I should use to clone the drive?

Or can I change something in the bios so I can still use 1 of the 128 ssd (as my boot drive) and plugin the 960 evo in the second slot.

Thanks!

 

A click sound is usually coming from a hard drive, and sometimes from a fan. You can disconnect HDD and verify if it's the root cause or not.

 

I just used the samsung apps for cloning then i just take out the 256gb ssd in hide it on my drawer for future use if something bad happen. about the bios i think you need to turn off raid because you're only using 1 ssd.


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Ok! But I can put the 960 evo in the third slot right? (M.2. SATA) otherwise I have a problem.. because the first and second one has those other two 128 ssd's.

 

Exactly what 128GB SSDs do you have in RAID 0?

 

Just the standard one's: TOSHIBA THNSN5128GPU7

 

Owner of GT73VR 7RE here. Got 2 256GB M.2 NVME SSD's (SM951) in Raid0 (512Gb). After 2 weeks IRST started reporting that one of them has status: failed. Took it to service center here in Croatia 10 days ago and, believe it or not, they don't know how to fix it and refuse to replace it. It is still over there. The guy from the service center said to me today that everything seems fine to him except for that IRST warning. Crazy if you ask me, but that is how bad customer support is in Croatia. Consumer rights mean absolutely nothing.

On another note, I would really like to know how can you disable RAID0 on my laptop (when I eventually get it back)? I looked everywhere on msi forum and don't see the answer. A did factory backup usb on the first day so I'm not affraid to lose my factory image in the process. I just don't want to deal with anything RAID0 related. So much problems with it. No actual benefits of any kind. It's there only for the purpose of MSI getting good scores in test after product launch. It's just not worth to me to use both NVME M.2 ports and have nothing in return. Like I said before, there is no reason to use two 256GB NVME SSD's in RAID0 instead of one 512GB NVME SSD a still have one M.2 NVME port free.

 

Those aren't 'standard' unless you mean they came standard with your configuration. They are Toshiba OCZ RD400 PCIe NVMe SSDs.

Your best option is to return the Samsung 960, or sell it if you can't return it, and buy a 1TB SATA drive for the 3rd M.2 slot. That 3rd slot will not support a PCIe NVMe drive at all, it won't recognize it.

Your other option is to take an image of your current C: drive (2x 128GB in RAID 0), and then break your RAID 0. Then remove one of 128GB SSDs and install the Samsung 960 in its place, leaving the other in place for additional storage. You could also remove them both and sell them, and use that money to buy a larger M.2 SATA drive for additional storage. Since you would still have another M.2 PCIe NVMe slot open you have other options as well.

Also, if you put your exact model number and your configuration in your signature, it will be much easier to have members of the community help you!
.

 

Thanks for the advice! I bought the 960 for the extra space (and for the speed ofcourse)
But I also could install Windows 10 from scratch by creating a 'official' USB iso right? (that might be the easiest way)

Thanks!

 

Put in or purchase 2x 128GB ssd's for use in laptops today is yesterday. AND SAME TIME RAID THEM Wasted money and ssd slots!!

 

You tell MSI that! They gave me this setup!

 

Yeah, One of the reason people should opt for customized build. See DELLIENWARE. People don't know what ssd brand they get when ordering... In the end they are screwed!! Results... Overheating and killed ssd's.

 

I agree with @Papusan. That is why I didn't suggest a solution with RAID 0. Better to backup your data, and start from scratch with the Samsung 960...then sell the Toshiba OCZ SSDs. If you need more storage, get SATA.

 

As others have said for them it goes away, but it's odd, if you are concerned get it checked out at your retailer or file a ticket with MSI to ask.

If the disk drive isn't near the power switch, it's unlikely that - although chassis conduction of sound could make the HDD clicking come out at different spots than where the drive sits. Do you hear similar clicking as you access the HDD? At power on it might make a bit more noise than after it's powered up.

 

GT72 is 22mm and I'll let you know the GT62 next time.

 

thanks

 

Yes you can always disable it from the BIOS.

First just go to the BIOS and then Advanced Tab > Intel Rapid Storage setting> Delete the RAID array.

Go back to Advanced Tab > SATA Mode and change to AHCI, press F10 to save and exit.

 

What is the next step. Will I be able to boot or is then the whole os wiped. If I do a factory reset then will it bring back raid0? Also will I lose the hidden factory image? I guess I should migrate OS before to new M.2 sata or hdd.

 

As long as RAID array is deleted everything is gone and drives won't be bootable. But since you said you already made recovery USB you just stick in the UPS port and press F11 to boot from USB and restore OS to one of the SSD, it will only take about 15 minutes to complete.

 

Thanks man

 

Plan is to use one of those M.2 NVMEs for OS and then buy 1TB M.2 SATA SSD for my games (since there's no speed difference whatsoever between SATA SSDs and NVME SSDs in gaming). Was planing on buying Crucial MX300. I'm aware of it's limitations with constant write speeds, but was thinking, If I use it strictly fot my gaming then it would be ok because there is not much writing to the disk when gaming, right? It's edurance is 360 TBW which seems pretty good to me. What do you guys think?

 

Remember op'ing max. Aka 30-50% for smaller ssd's. And 30% for all bigger ssd's. The smaller ssd's... The bigger op'ing needed.

 

Isn't that done automatically by manufacturer? I know that Samsung has it's magician software where you can adjust it to your liking but it only works with Samsung SSDs right? But Samsung has no M.2 SATA SSD's as far as I know. In a perfect world I would have 2 Samsung 960 Pro's 2TB and 2.5 inch 850 Pro SSD 4TB and couldn't care less about that free M.2 SATA port.

 

There is a built in 7% OP but Samsung recommends another 10% in addition to that to be near a 20% OP. I don't OP any of my SSDs, they have a lot of free space and I never come near filling them so I'm not concerned about that