The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Hey guys would like to ask you, because i am really ****ed up and have no ****in clue what is happening with my MSI GT73VR 6RF - Have here 1080 gtx, and today got the same problem as before and have no idea what is cause it. Using a lot of MSI dragon center and switching modes between, SPORT and COMFORT,sometimes using TURBO, but not so often. Today i changed my cooling pad fornew one, so changed only usb connections what i have here (mouse, pad and hdd) and switched from SPORT to COMFORT. Switched off pc and went to work. When i came back, started laptop switched back to SPORT and started play BATTLEFIELD 1. Did not have any issues yesterday and today morning, until i came back from work again. My GPU usage is dropping so much down, so movement and basicly whole game is stuttering, cpu were ussualy used from 60 - 80% during gaming now i have aprox 60 sometimes to 80% but no so often. Have again 20 fps lesser then before and i have no idea what is going on again. Had this problem before, sent my laptop to repair center. They change new gpu, motherboard and fan, but i am for sure, so there must be some ****in soft ****. CPU frequencies, temperatures, clock just liek usualy. In nvidia control panel have set up power management on maximal performance, which i had before today.

 

Whats you battery charged to?

 

I had similar problems when I installed the v381.89 driver. The GPU usage dropped a little bit and I had less FPS. Try to uninstall it using DDU and install the v381.78 driver.

http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4453/~/geforce-hotfix-driver-381.78

 

go to nVIDIA Control Panel > Manager 3D Settings > Power Management, change it from Optimal to High Performance then reboot

 

100%. But Windows 10 is coordinate by himself about it, that's mean so battery sometimes is charging, sometimes not, so i don't control it

But i all the time have the newest 381.89 and everything was working fine until today

I said at my first post so i allready had set MAx perfromance. Then i triedto set it up to optimal, restarted, and then i setagain maximum, and still have the same issue

 

Not to diss but amazon, bh, newegg still same as old msrp? @GenTechPC

 

how are your GPU temps? can you launch HWiNFO (Sensors only) then run a game in the background to see what's the max GPU temp recorded?

 

They can do whatever they want if they don't get caught and there are penalties for resellers who violating MSRP policy.

Laws does not allow drivers to run the red light or speeding but people just doing it all the time.

It's been many years and it happens all the time and not even something new to discuss.

 

Nothing yet besides still waiting for the GS series with 1070, taking too long...

 

As i mentioned i did not have any problems until i went to work. todays morning i played bf1 yet. Temperatures are to 76 degrees. Tested even Campaign in BF1 it's playanable 70% gpu usage. And i know so campaing was absolutely without any problems, played it week again and ncie and smoothly. It's so weird, because had the same problem prop half year ago and did not solve it. Had to send it to Repair Center.

 

Oh well~

No offense. Thanks for the info.

 

told ya...ICD no good...it will dry out.. .....but seeing is believing....

with OC, 74 max @ CPU an excellent temp....

why didn't you try LM on GPU too.

Gelid is a good TIM but I read somewhere it's not made for laptop...though 73 @ GPU almost same result as Grizzly Kryo / ICD but let's see how long Gelid will last...

I got Grizzly Conductnaut and it's sitting in my drawer since last 3 weeks...as soon as I get some spare time, will do the windows clean install (you suggested couple of pages back) and will re-paste both CPU / GPU....Kyro is still holding on both CPU / GPU and same performance as like day one.

 

Because the GPU seemed to be so exposed to the PCB so I didn't wanna risk it. It's doing good for now with GELID Extreme Thermal compound

 

You won't get same improvement in temp with Liquid metal on graphics as with cpu.

 

NVIDIA preparing new mobile GeForce GTX 1080 and 1070

https://videocardz.com/69064/nvidia-preparing-new-mobile-geforce-gtx-1080-and-1070

 

That's a significant temp drop.

How long is Liquid Metal Ultra supposed to last?

 

Please help information.

I downloaded Nahimic 2.5.6 Version On the official MSI website.

But I download it from Other Products a MSI Aegis ,because Nahimic Driver on GT73VR 7RF And All notebook on the Website is only available version 2.3.15.

Is nahimic for pc and laptop different? I have installed it and tried it no problem


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I'm also interested in this. I've bought my 6RF with repasting done by HIDevolution; CLU on CPU and ICD on GPU. How long will both last before I have to repaste again? Thanks.

 

Slower than what we have so no interest lol


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From what @Papusan told me and my past experience with it on the Alienware 18 I had 3 years back. Once you put it, you don't need to repaste it, provided you put it right. It can last 1 year easily.

 

All depends on how good the HS fits on die/IHS. I will never go back to ordinary thermal paste!!

BTW. Seen this bro? Wireless-AC 9260 wifi

 

Already read this last week but pretty much they're releasing lower TDP/Clocked down versions of the card. For what purpose? so they can say a laptop has 1070 or a 1080 while it keeps up with the cooling so mostly aimed for smaller notebooks etc... Performance will be much lower to be able to keep those temps down but at least its better than onboard or lower end GPUs. On the other hand if they try to jack up the price then thats just dumb. But yeah its just so they can put a "desktop" grade card onto smaller form laptops.

MSI's official website doesnt always have the latest drivers, if its not a big issue they tend to update once in a while. Most of the time they just repack the drivers and then release it being a few weeks to a few months old upon release. Its your choice however if you want the latest drivers or if you want to hold off and stick to their releases.

I usually keep my sound and display drivers up to date most of the time, if something is buggy I just go back one version. I also test them when I stream or play a game

 

Hi guys,

I finally took the plunge and bought this beast last week. I hadn't had time to play around with it, but I've been following this thread plus the review of @Phoenix on the Titan pro 7RF. I'm loving every bit of this machine and I have no buyer's remorse at all.

I wouldn't have been able to buy this laptop but I was able to salary package this beast and it cost me about 40-50% less than the suggested retail price here in Australia.

After seeing what the titan pro can do out of the box, I was hoping to get some recommendations from you guys. My experience with PCs and OCing is pretty average so please be bear with me

1. I wanted to clean install this laptop but I'm not quite sure what's the best way to do it. Would it be enough use the "Restore this PC" option for a clean install?

2. After a clean install, do just follow the post of @Phoenix for the drivers or do I go to the official MSI website?

3. How do you guys go about OCing the CPU and GPU? Do I use XTU and MSI after burner with Dragon center or do I just uninstall dragon center and use the individual applications for the OC?

Cheers.

 

Windows 10 Creators Update Bloatware Free Edition
NBR Windows 10 Clean Installation Guide
Windows 10 Tweaks and Fixes (Index post #1)
Phoenix Software Updates
MSI GT73VR 7RF TITAN PRO Drivers
O&O ShutUp10 - Do not use Windows 10 without it!


To find out your Windows 10 Product key so you can use it to activate Windows:

Download RWEverything and launch it as admin


Click on ACCESS > ACPI Tables

Then go to the MSDM Tab:

 

I put it here... Ngredia conitinue MILKING and FRANKENSTEIN GRAPHICS Pay more get less as always!! STOP!!

 

I thought they were doing good with putting full desktop GPU into notebooks.. then now they're stepping back

 

As I said... It's called MILKING!!

 

In the Dragon Center activating turbo mode nothing changes, probably because the oc offset are set to 0. Which can be safe OC offset for core and vram? The maximum possible is +200Mhz for the core and +350mhz for the memory. Any of you is using these values?

 

Legend! I really appreciate the help! I'll get to work once I'm off from work

 

Can I do this bro even if I already have the updated Windows 10? I haven't done a clean install since I got the laptop. Maybe that's the reason I've been experiencing those BSODs? Also @Atma mentioned that he had to remove his D: drive for the system to see his C: drive and be able to install the OS there. Is there a way to clean install without having to remove my D:drive? Thanks bro!

 

You can't use the same TOOL on a running system.
If you read the article, You can see you can use the comparable program NTLite. It enables you to modify a live installation, or create new custom media.

 

Is using the NTLite to modify my current system comparable to doing a clean installation? Or is the latter still better?

 

As you said in your previous post... You upgraded. I prefer to start with a clean installation. Always with a new main Windoze Build pushed out. But it does not have to be your preferred solution.

 

Just managed to accidentally update my Qualcomm/killernetwork Bluetooth drivers via device manager and noticed it installs a much newer version than is even on the MSI or killer network site. Anyone else done this. It is driver version 10.0.0.285

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Whether this can be installed on msi notebook ?

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Yes I upgraded, but I think @Phoenix made mine a Clean Installation during the upgrade. Does that mean it was already done like a fresh clean installation from scratch? Recently I've had problems with Windows always showing BSODs and I think it's because I haven't done a clean installation of Windows yet.

 

I don't know what bro @Phoenix did for you. But with clean install I mean wipe the Os disk clean(Secure Erase). And starting from scratch. Aka no Os in the bottom and install newest OS build from a usb thumb.

 

New Killer Network drivers and suite are out on their site. And new Nahimic drivers are up on MSI's


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You can do this. But check with @Phoenix what the backup he made for you contained. Might be worth backing up some software and tweaks to make them easily accessible for setting up.

In regards to removing D: drive, you can do it two ways. Depending on bios options, you can disable it so windows won't see it during the setup phase. The other is if you bios doesn't do it, you can leave it in, however some boot or windows information may be placed on the D: drive.

Do note however, that Phoenix recommends to have a 200GB windows partition, with program files and user files moved to another partition. This will make deciding weather to reformat a lot easier as it will mainly only change the windows partition and not your other files. You'll still need to apply the tweaks as per the guide however.

 

RE: BSOD, what does your windows event viewer say?

 

Pretty sure it could.. I am using it

 

I've been experiencing a lot of BSODs lately:

STOP CODE: INVALID_WORK_QUEQUE
STOP CODE: KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE
STOP CODE: DRIVER_CORRUPTED_EXPOOL
STOP CODE: PREVIOUS_FATAL_ABNORMAL_RESET_ERROR
STOP CODE: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT

I've done everything that things people said to do to fix these BSODs but I don't think it worked. I've run chkdsk /f, sfc/scannow and Memory Diagnostic Tool. Mind you these errors don't always happen and just pops up randomly even if I'm running the laptop at low power without the AC adapter plugged in. Last time I long press the power button long enough to reset the laptop and the BSODs were gone for some time. But then they came back, so I just though it might have something to do with a corrupted OS.

 

How can I do this without having to remove my D: drive and make the laptop recognize my C: as my main drive and the place it should place my OS?

 

If you did come from an update instead of a clean install, then it's possible. But by the looks of that it appears like some driver and corrupt systems.

RE no removal of D: drive.

Take a look in your bios. can you disable the drive?

Make the boot ISO from Phoenix and start the process. you should be able to see if it can see the D drive or not from there.

If it can, then well you'll have to remove it.

If it can't, it should be fine to do.

Just make sure you back up anything on the C drive first before doing this as it will remove everything.

After windows is back on, re-enable D drive in bios and data should still be there. Just note that if software is installed on D: that's supposed to have reg items, they may not work properly.

Edit: Just note that if this is your original install what you're using, it may already have windows items on D:, grab an external drive or move it to C: after windows and format that drive as well, then move data back.

 

How to disable D: drive in the bios? Also, how can I clean install again if I already have a Windows 10 up and running?

 

There is no option to turn it off. Unless you unplug it from the component

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New update on device manager Card Reader , (Firmware 3.17)

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Your C: drive is Samsung 960 EVO 500GB according to your sig. When installing the new OS just choose to install on Samsung 960 EVO and it won't touch your D drive.

 

huh? where's that update?

new audio driver / nahimic posted in
MSI GT73VR 7RF TITAN PRO Drivers

 

Found a image as example and it's Windows 7 but Windows 10 are the same.

During installation it found disk 0 and disk 1 with multiple partitions. So let's say your Samsung SSD is disk 0 and 1TB drive is disk 1.

What you need to do to clean install Windows on your Samsung only without touching D drive is click drive options and delete all partitions on disk 0 and don't touch disk 1:


Once you deleted all partitions on Disk 0 you will see a 500GB unpartition space. Just select the unpartition space and click next to install your OS on your Samsung SSD.