The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Anybody here can suggest a gaming keyboard? I want to upgrade the keyboard I have in my desktop (both desktop and keyboard already 5 yrs old) and I have $200 budget for it still without tax and shipping. I have these ase my prospects:

1) Razer Blackwidow Chroma V2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...6-9fdc-425a-aee8-c82daa7b18ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

2) Corsair K95 RGB Platinum
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-PLAT...2458&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+k95+rgb+platinum

3) G.Skill Ripjaws KM780
https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-RIPJ...3103&sr=8-1&keywords=gskill+ripjaws+km780+rgb

If you can suggest other keyboards, please do. I want to have a mechanic keyboard that's quiet; not gonna do a lot of fast typing so it's not gonna matter if it'll make me make errors as long as it's really good for gaming and again very silent. I love RGB so that's a must (plus all are RGB within my budget) and also a very comfortable wrist rest is a must too. But the most important thing is the build quality.

Also, I want to know if what's the quietest mechanical switch out there. The razer orange, razer yellow, mx cherry silver (speed) or the mx cherry brown? I know it's kind of a personal preference but I want to know your take on this because I can't test out this switches. The only one I can test is the Razer Blackwidow Chroma V2 with green switches and I don't like it because it's loud (clicky). Thanks for the feedback! I would really appreciate all the help I can get.

 

First let me start that you wont find a silent keyboard on mechanical, you probably can get quieter operation on rubber dome keyboards, but there are some mechanicals that are aimed into operating as quiet as they can.

One mod that helps a lot is the adding O rings to the keys, this will help you lower the noise when keys bottom out, this helps any keyboard even the quiet ones.

I would recommend you to take a look into Corsair Gaming STRAFE MX Silent Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit Red LED, Cherry MX Silent, Corsair had exclusivity on the Cherry MX Silent switches for 6 months, i think the time has pass and other manufacturers can use them now, but none the less this is one of the keyboards that uses the most quiet Cherry MX switches. I would still do the O Ring mod to quiet the bottom of the keys. If you still are persuing a quieter keyboard, i would suggest to settle on rubber dome, not as pleasing to trype, but the quietest keyboard i have typed is the Logitech Illuminated Thin Keyboard K740

 

Jesus you suggest the worst keyboards imaginable.
Ducky Shine 6 (any of the variations. Year of the Monkey if you can still find it).
Guessing you want MX RGB Brown or Red or Black switches as it sounds like you won't like MX Blues.

/thread.

 

You can get the Logitech G413, they are less than 100$ if you can get it in a place without tax like newegg or ebay.

Also silent, they're like a better version of MX Browns. I am using one myself right now to test, but I still prefer MX Blue type feeling compared to brown. The tactile bump on the Romer G is stronger than the MX Brown.






@Phoenix @hmscott

My GT73VR 4K 480 died yesterday for some reason when installing windows. I'm in talk to get a replacement model GT73VR 425 and getting a large chunk of my money back.

 

Welcome to the -425 club brah~

 

Thanks for these bud, I'll take a look at the Corsair Gaming Strafe RGB but it doesn't have macro keys though, I need them for the type of games I play (sorry for not mentioning it before). The silent variant you mentioned here doesn't have RGB and Wrist Rest. Like I said I want it in RGB and would not settle for less. I have a $200 budget for it so I won't buy anything less than $100 just to save money and not have the best I can buy at that price range. Now, I know that I can buy wrist rests independently but it won't have a magnet or a hook that'll make it stay in place while I type (that would really be annoying when it'll move during times when I play fast-paced games and would really press keys all over the place), and with the money that I'm willing to spend, it better have a wrist rest. I know that mechanical keyboards are not silent unlike membranes and the keyboard in my GT73VR, I'm sorry for not being too specific about it; but what I meant was a silent one when compared to other mechanical keyboards. Can you suggest another one? Thank you so much for the help man!

With regards to the O-ring, I've already read about it and wonder which type should I get? 40A-R, 40A-L or 50A-R, these are the ones currently available in my country (among these, I want the type that would make the keyboard most quiet more than how it'll feel when typing)

Thank you bud! Can you recommend a much better keyboard than this? An upgrade or maybe a much more recent one? I know that these will save me money but I want to buy the best one I can buy with my budget (I don't want to regret settling for less when I can afford a better one). This doesn't have macro keys (again sorry for not mentioning that I need these for the type of games I play), wrist rest and it's not RGB. I can maybe increase my budget to $250 if it'll make sense buying that certain keyboard at that price range.

 

I tried to do clean installation by Phoenix guide, but unfortunately it wont allow me to install on C drive (is SSD). it just allow me to install on D which is Hard disk. I dont want to open the laptop and beak the guaranty ... so is there any other way to to help me for clean installation ?

 

When you say it won't allow you to install it on your C Drive, do you mean that during installation you can't see your SSD (C Drive) which won't allow you to install Windows 10 in there? Or you can see it and choose it but when you install Windows 10, it still installs it in your D Drive (Hard Drive) rather than on your SSD? I haven't fully done the clean installation yet because I wanted to ensure that everything is in place before doing it but I've checked it and just stopped at the choosing of the location to where I would like to install Windows 10 part. I then cancelled it and the laptop just rebooted. But before I did that I saw two drive Drive 0 (my Hard Drive) and Drive 1 (my SSD) with a lot of partitions. But this is because I partitioned my SSD into two (C Drive for OS and D Drive for Games).

 

Is your bios set correctly?

Did you come from a format where you removed and recreated the volumes?

Are you trying to keep the data on the HDD and wipe the SSD or keep data on both and put windows over the SSD existing partition?

I recommend backing up everything up that you don't want to loose to an external drive.
Ensure bios is setup (Can't remember off the top of my head the correct mode for SSD)
When you reach the drive selection in windows mode, remove all existing partitions and create the 200gb windows partition as per the guide as C:, then on the same SSD make a "D:" data. Don't create the HDD partition here. This will not put any windows partitions on the HDD making backup of your windows drive easier.

Once you get past here, and install the drivers as per his guide as well, then create the HDD partition using a partition tool.

Restore any data you need on the SSD or HDD from the external backup.

 

Read this post, you need to clean your SSD using the diskpart / clean command

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...lean-installation-guide.781178/#post-10085610

 

Well, crappy news again.

I left the GT73VR on last night copying over games from my main rig. I had turned off sleep mode so it wouldn't go to sleep, but I did have it set to turn off the monitor after 30 minutes.

When I woke up and touched the mousepad to wake up the screen, I got a blank, white screen. I was still getting HDD activity like the transfer was still going, so I waited about 3 minutes to see if anything would change - it didn't.

So I hard powered off the laptop, and powered it back on - no video output. It doesn't even look like the backlight it turning on. I tried that CMOS reset by holding down the power button for 45 seconds from an off state, then pressing and holding until it turns on then off - no video out.

My last gamble is to login to Windows blindly and try switching over to the iGPU. Edit - which doesn't work.

What ****ty quality for such an expensive laptop!

 

The price of the laptop doesn't matter. Cheap or expensive... Should work as intended anyway!!

 

thank you all, I forgot to used the RAID driver which is inside the installation files.
I deletec the previous partitions on SSD, the created 2 new partition.
is it ok? or I should remove the partition on SSD? because i am not familiar with SSD ...

 

Do what now?

 

Well if you want RGB and Cherry MX Silent switches, then look into Corsair STRAFE RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard — Cherry MX Silent, about the macros, i think you can do it with Fs just gotta set them up.

Now if you want side macro keys, then i would suggest to look into Logitech, i own an Orion 810 (no macro keys) and it uses their proprietary Romer G, and to me they are quiet switch, again not silent but quieter than the typical Cherry MX brown, and since you want side Macro keys, look into Logitech RGB G910 Orion Spark Mechanical Gaming Keyboard.

As a side note, if i were spending $200 on keyboard right now, i agree with Falkentyne the Ducky6 YOTM would be around the top of my wishlist, or i would go with Massdrop x Input Club K-Type Mechanical Keyboard, but you wont get the side macro keys nor would be as quiet as you are looking, although browns are pretty good with orings, but really depends on each users and thier base ambient noise.

 

Here is how you switch over to the iGPU.
This requires that NO other programs are loading at startup (besides stuff that doesn't leave a "program manager/taskbar" icon, e.g. Notepad leaves an icon, stuff like SCM, Malwarebytes, Synaptics driver does not.

1) Press the GPU button.
2) press Alt Tab, tab, space bar.

This should reboot to the iGPU.

 

Sadly that didn't work.

VERY strangely, what did work was removing the f'ing NVME drives! I removed them both and BAM! Video out. Obviously I couldn't boot into Windows without them (they are the OS drives), so I put them back in. BAM - no video out. What the fudge??? Put in just one - no video out. Put in the other in the same slot - VIDEO OUT!!!!! WHAT THE DUCK! Put the other one in the same slot - NO VIDEO OUT!

At this point I'm thinking that I've got a bad NVME drive. But, for the sake of thoroughness I put the suspected bad NVME in the slot that I hadn't tried and the known good one in the first slot - BAM, VIDEO OUT!

Such a piece of ****, it's not even funny.

I'm back in Windows and I'm just going to loop Valley until this things **** the bed again.... (or more likely, white screen of deaths on me after the monitor goes to sleep)

Now that I'm looping Valley I notice that the GPU utilization is about 50% for each GPU - that's quite a bit lower than what I got before this mess started.

 

I did clean install,
Now, when I change the fan speed in DC to coller boost --> fan speed goes to max
when i change from cooler boos to other options --> still fan speeed is on MAX !!!!
howto fix that?

 

Thanks man! I'll look into these. What about the o-ring switch dampener part? Can you give me an advise as to what I should get among these three to get the most silent one out of them: 40A-R, 40A-L, 50A-R. These are just the ones available in my country. Also, since I'll be buying a keyboard with RGB, should I get the clear/transparent o-rings so that it won't obstruct the light that much from the backlight? Thanks!

 

With O-ring, they are not needed with Romer G, more like they won't fit the keyswitch at all.

With logitech software you can assign every key to be a macro key.

RGB is pretty useless, alongside wristrest. You can get wristrest separately and don't have to hunt for a keyboard "package."

 

It may be useless but for me it's a make or break kind of thing when I'm about to spend $200+ for a keyboard and it doesn't have RGB. I'm one of those guys who's into aesthetics like seeing my things pretty neat and looks really cool (pleasing to the eyes). I don't want to always see the same color every time I turn on my computer like it's something repetitive. I know that I'm spending much more money than what I'll be needing but I have this kind of "condition" that I'll suddenly regret my decision if I didn't get the best out of my budget when I could afford it. As for the separate wrist rest, will it not move since it's unattached? I've already mentioned in my previous post, I don't like the independent wrist rest being sold separately because it's not attached and it'll move. I play a lot of fast paced games, I play DOTA 2 along other MOBAs, FPS Games and MMORPG competitively, so there'll be a lot of times when I'll be stroking my keyboard fast and my hand would be all over the place.

 

should I reinstall windows again ?
The bad part is i deleted the recovery partition and cant restore my windows easily!!
I wish i didnt touch that damn windows installation

 

you don't have to pay so much for a good keyboard...

 

Changing the fan speed from cooler boost to lower levels through DGC always makes the fan to respond slow. I've done that once, changed the fan speed to cooler boost via DGC and then turned it back to Auto but the fans were still running at max, I turned it off by pressing cooler boost button found in the right most part of the laptop. Now, I always use the Cooler Boost button whenever I want the max speed and not through DGC. Try it first before doing the clean installation again.

 

Yeah, I may be spending too much, but I really can't buy a non-RGB keyboard nonetheless, it's too plain for me (I kind of get bored fast with things like that).

 

Thank you,
I changed the permission in DG folder and now it works, but decreasing fan speed via DC is veeeeery slow. it taked about 1 min to decrease from 5000 to 1000 but if you try it via physical button, it will takes about 3 sec.
thank you any way.

I have another question, I deleted the recovery partition on my SSD since i did clean install. is there any way to return that partition?

 

I haven't done a clean installation yet but I don't think you can get that back (unless you go to a professional that would cost you a lot of money).

 

ok , and that is the reason that I dont have recovery option in DC anymore?

 

I've just finish my clean install (thx @Phoenix ) but my problem still here.....

Dragon center show -2,7Ghz can't solved it.

 

me too, the DS still is shown my cpu clock as -2.9 !! I am using AVG as antivirus and i think that is the problem. by the way, the task manager is showing the cpu clock correctly. so I think we should nt care about that!

we just deleted out MSI wondows recovery!! no benefit

 

Hello all, i seem to be having some slight issues with scm verison 13.016.12025 as i cannot update it to the newer one and it refuses to uninstall because of a missing pathway apparently.
Does anyone have a link to the download for this specific version in their archives? the newest version apparently cannot install unless i get rid of the old version and this old version refuses to uninstall

 

Have you tried Revo uninstaller?

 

ive tried revo and iobit and the works, however none of them work (iobit cant even detect it to begin with)

 

@Phoenix what's the program to save the OEM windows key again?

I'm going to save it then wipe the key off bios so I can get 10 enterprise properly installed

 

To find out your Windows 10 Product key so you can use it to activate Windows:

Download RWEverything and launch it as admin

Click on ACCESS > ACPI Tables

Then go to the MSDM Tab:

 

And we're able to clear the key off the system from the bios?

 

no, it's injected in your BIOS for eternity, why would you wanna clear it anyway? If you want to install a different edition than the one which is in the key you have in your BIOS, let's say Pro, then see:

How to select Windows Home or Pro when installing Windows 10

 

oh damn :|

was going to use kmsauto with w10 enterprise... don't need the stock bios key

 

@Papusan I went to a local computer shop and they had the same adapter as the one issued with the GT73VR. They agreed to test if my laptop would charge and when they connected it, their adapter went dead. In the image I attached, one of the pins in the charging port is discolored and has turned black. Also, in the psu connector, it looks like the metal lining has melted in one of the holes. This was probably caused by a short circuit. I wrote to msi asking them to repair it. Shouldn't this be covered by the warranty?

 

Yeah, this should be a warranty case.

 

I overclocked the cpu 7820HK and did stress test using Aida64 stability.
When i set to turbo mode in the settings right in the middle of the benchmark results do not show cpu throttling.
But When I set the turbo mode setting the maximum
benchmark result shows 1-2% cpu throttling.
I use a cooler boost when doing a test.
And i have not replaced thermal cpu.
When i see the GT73VR review. The result mention gt73vr does not show cpu throttling. Is there a problem on my laptop?

 

Have you updated to the latest BIOS & EC firmware? Marketing sample usually have ES firmware from R&D perhaps they might had behaved differently than production ones.

 

temperature?

 

Did you change the ICCMax to 100A (a value of 400 in the Bios?).
Default TDP is 45W. Aida64 will exceed this and cause throttling. You need to change the iCCMAX value (also known as Current Limit).

 

I asked this in the barebones thread, but why hasn't anyone here who has repasted their chips (not a single person; i've read the entire thread--which took me...a very long time), tried "Phobya Nanogrease Extreme" compared to Grizzly Kyronaut?

 

uncommon thermal grease around here

 

Interesting. I'd love to try a sample...

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...eview-by-phoenix.801314/page-11#post-10517550

 

Here's a few hits from NBR:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/search/17597091/?q=Phobya+Nanogrease&o=relevance

 

I did a search and only saw 3 results. I must have misspelled something....