The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Max-Qrippled use weaker components on MB. And firmware is as cancer!!

 

It's 200 watts because it has an external power connector. It's not pulling 200 through the MXM slot.
Notebookcheck's review of the 7RF is using pictures of the 7RE (you can tell from the way the GPU and VRM heatsink looks).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/mxm-gpu-resellers-in-the-world.804197/page-6

The top picture has the 1080 (7RF).
The next one has the 1070 (7RE).

 

Any of you BGA loving Jabronis know what the /k parameter does in ECwinflash_041 or ECwinflash64_041 ?
/s shuts off the PC after the flash.
/fake does something no one knows how to do
/ecsmb does something only @Prema would know, with some offset(?)
/edii2c

But what does /k do ?
(/k is actually in the batch file for the 64 bit version with winPE...(ECflashwin64_041.exe 17a1ems1.108 /s /k)

This /k has to do something. The ECWin.bat on the US msi website only has /s in the batch file...
@Papusan save me! I'm drowning!
@Mr. Fox
@Prema the almighty

I wish I had actually studied programming hardware

 

Trying this, but it´s not shutting off....I´m overclocking at 4.2 with stock voltage. Everything stable. After 5 min max temp is 82, average 73; room temperature around 25 (but its a guess). The thing is that obsidian says it uses around 66 watts...
Maybe I need it to push iot further?

 

Are you running prime 95 small FFT (FMA3 instructions?)
66 watts is extremely low.

Also try changing your cache speed to x39, in the 4.2 ghz TS profile, by moving the cache slider (under voltage control-cache) to x39, then setting the cache range on the right to 8-39.

 

Max power draw around 66w with default P95 is wrong with 4.2GHz all cores.

 

I was runnning occt. Did I do anything wrong? Do you want me to try P95 instead?

 

Yes please! (small FFT)

 

Doing it. It fraws a bit more than 80watts (fluctuates between 80 and 82) but it works. This thing gets the temperatures high, hahaahahah. Still, It does not freeze...

 

Thank you Jaime.
What is the temperature?
If it's below prochot, try going into THROTTLESTOP (oops, I said prime95 before I edited it) and changing the OFFSET voltage for CPU core and CPU cache (both) and increasing it by 0.025, and then 0.050. This should get you to 90W. But don't go higher than that. You can change voltage offset in FIVR section in prime95. (adaptive-->offset-> change for cpu core and cache)

Make sure after doing this you let the CPU cool down for like a minute before starting prime95 Small FFT, so you don't immediately overheat.

The system "should" reboot by itself in less than 3 minutes (if you can keep the temps below PROCHOT).

 

Or clock up a bin

 

Might be impossible with 6820HK. Better to just increase vcore offset for CPU and Cache (easy to do in throttlestop). that way he will still raise the watts. 6820hk @ 4.3 ghz will probably not be stable in stress test.

 

Temperature was between 82 the lowest core and 86 the highest. I can't try it today. I will tomorrow. Maybe I'll try 4.3 as suggested by papusan, hahaha.
But anyway, what kind of app will stress the system as much as this on everyday use?

 

No app Stress like This. But some Turds have TRIPOD. Shared heatsink/pipes between cpu-gpu will push more heat on Cpu when both are in use. See if your testing matching and making correct Wprime 1024M - Cinbench R15 scores. Aka real world usage. With ok temp. Post pics of Hwinfo64 and the scores.

 

Got it to work on the aida stress test at 4.3 ghz with stock voltage. At 4.4 it exploded, hahahaha. Later on the day I will try the other things

 

I bought my first of this laptop as soon as it was released and it came with a scuffed chassis, but had a 6820HK that could do 4.2ghz at stock volts and 4.4 with a little boost. Then I changed the refclk by literally 1 in the bios and it never booted again. RMA'd because no-one knew about the clear cmos back then and I wasn't about to open up the laptop to pull cmos batteries and break the sticker.
Imagine my disapointment getting a replacement with a rubbish cpu and gpu's that cant handle more than a 10% ram oc.

PSA for anyone using a Rift on this laptop and getting slight audio crackle. Ideal USB port for HMD is left side closest to the screen, not sure whether it matters where the sensors are plugged into.
Fixed the audio problem for me on 6820HK mainboard

 

I have a 5820k/980ti desktop rig for my Vive. I have hooked it up to the laptop briefly. It seems to run it great. I actually used display port to run a 1440p 144hz monitor and it pushed battlefield 1 at 180-200 fps. This machine is an incredible piece of hardware. I'm so happy with the purchase.

 

Greetings all,

I've just got back from my business trip...hope everyone is well...

....phew just now caught up on all the reading....

Good stuff. I knew it wasn't touching at all as I've seen the pics that were posted. I'm very OCD myself and it's good to see that you're taking extra measures to make sure it's done right.

Yes, as I've replied above, I wasn't implying or thinking that the foam was touching the die. That would be silly.

I've also never said that it doesn't work. Sure it will and any extra protection is worth doing if done correctly. Kudos to that.

As for LM tragedies, my oh my I've seen my fair share from it being all over the mobo to getting stuck under fet's, mem chips and all of the above lol. One of the most memorable one was when the LM leaked under the RAM slot and saturated the entire unit, completely frying that slot, making it useless. Yikes...

I ship all my systems that I work on already LM'ed and even internationally several times a month. Knock on wood, but there has been zero fatalities with any LM issues.

I've also opened up several machines that have traveled back to me for some more upgrades, screen calibrations etc....zero issues.

Even my MBP and XPS 15 are LM'ed and those get checked in sometimes.

You've stated it perfectly, "Using the correct amount of liquid metal is key to success in all cases."

Hope all is well with you Brother. Cheers..

At least from my data on what I see flow across my desk when working with systems with 7820HK's, 99% of them can all handle 44x if tuned properly.

Some chips even run 44x stock on default voltage. LOL...funny I know.

A lot can hold 45x no problem tuned.

Those with good chips can run at 46x stable, tuned just fine..

I keep mine at 46x as a daily driver and it games and records (OBS) just fine for hours on end...of course it's tuned.

47x is possible and I've seen some chips run 47x, but the air gets real thin at that altitude.

If lucky, you can find chips that can hold 48x long enough to clock in a bench.

Bloat is cancer. They are almost never implemented correctly.

It's interesting that on the AW's, RAID is more so just a newer protocol and it runs just fine with a single drive on RAID.

Also for those of you that use Samsung Magician w/ the 960 Pro, you'll have to install your windows on ACHI for Magician to work.

Personally I run my Samsung 960 Pro's plain with only the drivers updated and that's it.

Yea, 6820HK's are not as forgiving as the Skylakes and the most I've seen stable is 43x with a 6820HK. I've seen some clock in at 44x and 45x, but those don't hold stable. If lucky, might be able to sneak in a quick bench, but that's it.

The HK's (bga) definitely need more gas, that's a given. Although on my personal unit (AW17R4) it holds pretty well in the 1.2's at 44x, which isn't shabby for a tattooed chip lol.

I'm perfectly happy with running at 46x as a daily. I use that for all my encoding and gaming. Stable as a rock.

Hypothetically, IF a MaxQ was in a system that currently has a GTX 1080, and IF the MaxQ ran at 200W, the temps would be fine as those fans could handle..

Now on a MaxQ system who knows as most of them likely have lower cfm outputs on the fans.

Although...the AW15R3 that has the GTX 1080 MaxQ has the same fans as it did on the 15R3 w/ the GTX1070 so in that case it keeps cool just fine.

Yea 43x stable with a 6820HK is a stretch....it's possible though...

I don't even bother with those apps that are unrealistic.

If you want something a little more closer to reality, run 3DMark (Fire Strike Loop, Combined test only and full screen) and let that run for a good 30mins +...1 Hour is even better...then occasionally you could run wPrime v1.55 and run the 1024M test while you have 3DMark on it's combined test. OCCT is good too.

Over stressing a system, especially a laptop doesn't really do any justice to real world data. Therefore, I don't bother with those apps.

TriPod, what a nightmare LOL.

 

It would actually be more interesting to see an Alienware that worked correctly out of the box. They have been gimped pretty bad since they wussed-out with BGA filth and tried to make up for it with an eGPU. Max-Q will always be filth. If you're going to try to make it run like a real GPU you'd be way better off saying no to Max-Q garbage and buying a real notebook built with a legitimate GPU. You'd also be a lot less likely to end up with a burned up doorstop in the end.

 

Why do you think the VRM would hold up? It was actually mentioned by @Prema before release that the new lower power GPU was using cheaper parts - they aren't needed if you never are going to put full power through it.

And, what's with this fascination with trying to get the gimped Max-Q run at full performance? The whole purpose of the Max-Q lower performance design is to use less volume for cooling and thinner spaces in a trade off with performance.

Putting full power back into the equation would run the heat up too high, fortunately you can't do that anyway, the firmware limits power from the PSU, so even if you upgraded the PSU from 230w to 330w it won't have any effect.

It's better to get a real full sized laptop designed to handle the power and cooling, and let the Max-Q stuff wither and disappear.

 

I expect the VRM would survive because any corresponding increase in heat output as a result of higher load would be divided between phases, and beyond that divided between gate drivers, high side + low side fets, inductors, traces and the diode. If the VRM is cooled by a metal plate I would expect it to survive, especially if higher quality thermal pads were installed.

Speaking from experience I nearly doubled the power limit of a 970m in my old GS60 and it handled it without an issue, even temperatures weren't too bad, though it was somewhat loud . Also there didn't seem to be a firmware power limit on the GS60, the laptop had a 120w adapter and I allowed the GPU alone to draw more than that. Seems like the EC limit is a new (unwanted) feature.

Personally I wouldn't buy a Max-Q, but if I had one I'd definitely try to unleash it, such is the overclocking lifestyle. It was pretty cool having a laptop that was as fast as its bigger brother

EDIT: https://images.nvidia.com/geforce-c...ce-gtx-max-q-laptops-the-marvels-of-max-q.png
Allegedly great regulator efficiency and thermal solutions = profit???

 

Cheaper parts... What more to say

 

Wondering if MSI its planning to renew the GT73VR line because Coffee Lake it's coming =).
I'm interested in this laptop since my GT72VR has broken twice .

 

Sorry for taking so long to reply, I tried to start a conversation with you but it wouldn't let me.

Just have a few questions to clarify.

Do I run the MSI BurnRecovery after reinstalling windows 10 or do I just run the MSI BurnRecovery and it will reinstall windows 10? I don't know if it matters but I have the creator win 10 installed.

I'm assuming there is no option to keep personal files when using the MSI Burnrecovery like windows 10 has as you mention MSI BurnRecovery re-formatting the HD correct?

I don't have access to any blank drives. I have the 128GB SSD and the 1TB 2.5 that came with the GT73, the 1TB I use for all my personal files. Do you say to unplug all drives because the MSI BurnRecovery formats all HDDs installed?

Again I don't have any spare drives that are blank to test on so I guess I have to just go for it.... I'm worried now it's going to fail!

Thanks for the help!

 

Hi. I Bought mine today and changed windows to 10 Enterprise. Now in Dragon Center or even in Bios it shows Please Change your Product Name! Can anyone please help me??

 

@asc_arash , I don't understand. Did it not show "please change product name" in the Bios when you first got it? What did it show then, originally?

What exactly did you do (like, exact things) after getting it? I assume you went in the Bios before changing it? I'm using windows 10 Enterprise and I didnt have this issue.
Please tell me what exactly did you do, precisely?

 

No I didn't go to Bios before changing windows but I think it should show my Laptop name there. But one thing, before I install windows 10 I selected bios uefi by mistake. Could this be the problem that all of my bios settings are gone?? Because my serial number is now showing "FFFFFFF"

 

Where did you select "Bios UEFI"?
In windows itself? Or in the Bios?
Do you remember the exact thing precisely?

I don't remember such an option anywhere.
There is an option for "UEFI" and 'CSM' and "Legacy with CSM", but the default is UEFI, but that's in the Bios under startup or boot devices or something.

I remember when I installed Enterprise, I was already in windows 10 home, I inserted the Enterprise DVD, ran the setup, chose 'install windows, delete personal files, settings, apps' and it just installed it and rebooted a few times.

 

In the manual that came with the laptop it said for installing new windows, when you see the MSI Logo press F11 and select DVD Drive. I pressed F11 but there were no DVD Drive so I instead selected UEFI Bios and system restarted and booted into the previous windows. then I again restarted and let the MSI Logo passed and then I saw it saying "Press any key to install windows" and the rest of the settings.
after the installation completed, and I also installed the Driver DVD that problem shown up.
I saw that laptop is showing my serial number "FFFFFFFF" and my model name "Please Change Your Model Name"

 

You were using a USB DVD drive, but you did not have the windows disc in the drive the first time you rebooted and press F11, so you went back to windows, then you inserted the windows DVD, rebooted again, pressed F11, and booted to the DVD Drive?

I simply ran the windows 10 setup from the USB DVD, inside windows.

And what are you talking about "Driver DVD"?
DVD's don't require drivers...

 

Were you messing around with any of the Secure Boot or Key or Factory Default key settings in the Bios?

Open a command prompt in windows, type WMIC CSPRODUCT
What does that show?

 

You don't understand me bro

 

No I don't understand you. Instead of having an attitude, have you done what I asked in my last message? It's a very simple command in command prompt. I'd like to know what appears there.

And how did you install windows enterprise if you don't have a DVD? Do you have a USB DVD drive? You can only install it if you install it to boot media. Your post makes confusing information about if you have a USB DVD drive or if you created DVD installation media or not. Did you create a bootable DVD or a flash drive installation? Read what you wrote in your above message earlier and see if it comes out as confusing.

 

Yes I did what you said and also there, serial number was FFFFFFF
What I did for installation:
1) I inserted the Windows DVD into laptop
2) Read the manual and in that it was said "press F11 when MSI logo appeard and if you choose UEFI option , you have to delete all the partitions and create them again", I did as it said
(This step could totaly being denied becase if you insert a Windows Disk, after MSI logo gone, it says press any key to... but I did as the manual said)
3) In the installation I repartitioned my hard drive and installed windows
4) After windows booted, I installed the Laptop Driver DVD which included the Hardware Driver and some MSI Softwares
5) After that I opened MSI Dragon Center App and I saw it's showing my laptop name "Please change your product" and my Serial Number "FFFFFFF"
6) I booted into bios to see my product name and there was the same situation.
I think maybe the Bios ROM has been deleted

 

Hi, thank you for this clarification.

It looks like the SMBios information was deleted.
Can you PM Svet on the official MSI forums? he should be able to help fix this issue.

Someone suggested trying to do a full cmos clear (power off and hold the power button down for 45 seconds with the LED off <--it's important to hold down the power button 45 seconds or longer. If you do it too fast, it will cause problems and then you'll have to do it all over again), then power on, it will have a black screen for a long time, the powe light will shut off after about 60 seconds of "sitting there", then turn on again, then it may freeze. Wait 2 minutes for it to "boot loop", if it doesn't, hold the power button down for 5 seconds to force it off, power it on again, wait 1 minute for the boot loop, then power it off again (it usually takes 3 attempts to boot loop), once the MSI screen appears and vanishes, it will do that three more times, then CMOS will be cleared). This method ALWAYS works (i've done it over 30 times), even though it SEEMS like the laptop is "bricked", it's not.

If this still doesn't work, you need to ask Svet to help you. Apparently this issue has happened to other people.

 

No! Don't restore to your original disk / current boot drive

So many people have done that without testing their recovery USB drive, only to see that horrifying error: "Can't find recovery, FAIL" - actually it's something like that, just as fear inducing.

If you don't have a spare drive, borrow one. Buy a drive you can return. Or wait. There's no rush.

Again, MSI BurnRecovery only backs up up the recovery partition image, not your current boot environment, so when it restores it restores the original out of the box OS image - it will boot up the same as it did the first time out of the box.

You need to back up your personal files, everything you did after first boot, so you can reinstall it on the restored boot drive.

Did the MSI BurnRecovery create work ok?

 

The problem is, his DMI information was deleted somehow. MSI Burnrecovery is probably not going to work. Sometimes clearing CMOS will make the DMI writable again if it gets switched to read only (still not sure WHY it gets switched to read only after writing a value; I experimented with changing the product name from GT73VR 7RE to GT73VR 7RF, which worked (nothing changed except the Nvidia drivers needed to be reinstalled), then when I tried to change it to 7RE again, it said "d7 err_Dmi_read_only".

 

I did as you said and it bootlooped for three times and when booted it was all the same and the problem is still here.
How can I find Svet in MSI Forum??

 

Send him a private message then wait for his reply. And tell him exactly what Bios you have, what EC firmware you have, what motherboard and marketing model you have and the exact problem just like you did here (DMI information, product name, serial# missing after reinstalling windows).

 

OK thank you....I will inform you

 

Ok I will wait until I have a spare drive to test on. Now if it works the 1st time, it will work the second time right? This isn't one of those "Well it works most of the time if it works the first time but it can still fail" situations right?

Did MSI BurnRecovery work ok? Well I bought a 32Gb usb stick and there was no errors in creating it, at least I don't remember any problems or having to do it twice. So I guess it worked ok? But unfortunately I didn't create the BurnRecovery until about a month after I purchased the laptop. I hope that doesn't matter...

 

Yes, you do a test run to make sure that after it boots and does the reformat of all internal drives, that it finds the recovery data on the USB drive and it's not corrupted.

For whatever reason some USB drives aren't 100% compatible and even after what appears to be a successful create, they fail on the restore.

I suppose after time some flash drives do fail, so it's possible for a "normal" flash failure to mess up up. But, that's why I make 2 backups onto 2 different kinds of USB flash drive - I don't mention that usually because most people don't have a bunch of them hanging around.

I do usually recommend people keep the cheap SSD/HDD around after upgrading - throw it in a drawer, and that's your backup for the recovery drive. If your single USB flash recovery drive fails, you can always swap the original SSD/HDD's back in to create another USB flash recovery drive.

Note that some Asus/MSI builds put the boot drive on the SSD, and the recovery partition on the HDD! So that's why you have to preserve both. This is also why when doing the restore you pull out all the other internal and disconnect external drives, so the restore program only finds 1 volume to put the boot and recovery data - a new large SSD works best

 

Those are some great points.I bought a pack of 2 and I haven't used the second one. You said it doesn't pay attention to the boot environment so that means if I use the MSI BurnRecovery now on another USB drive it will be exactly the same as the first USB MSI BurnRecovery drive I made?

I may have found a spare hard rive to test on, I have an older 64gb Adata 2.5" SSD kicking around that I can use. So if I pull the 2 drives and and throw in the 64gb and then use the recovery flash drive I made and it works, couldn't I also just save that SSD as another recovery source?

I'm also not familiar with how to initiate it the recovery procedure. I'm assuming if I pull all the drives and pop in the spare and then plug the recovery USB in it will boot off the USB and start the reformat and recovery?

Thanks a lot for your help so far. I'm hoping this will also help others in the future who have questions about this topic if the come looking.

 

Yes, the flash recovery drive data will be the same every time, as it's only backing up the never changing recovery image data on the recovery partition.

You probably should get a 256GB for now and future use, but I did use a single 128GB to restore when I was testing for failed M.2 SSD's. 64 GB is likely way too small, but I suppose it's worth a try if you want to spend the time learning how it won't

You can set the boot order to boot off of a USB flash drive in the BIOS - make sure it's plugged in at the time from power up so it's seen, or use the F11 (?doubleheck Fkey?) to select the boot menu at startup and select the USB flash drive.

My thoughts as always

If you have more than 8GB of memory, try pulling RAM sticks until you only have 1 left, even 4GB is enough to test this. Each GB of memory you pull is 1 less GB of Hiberfil.sys created when you boot on it. IDK if the recovery image already has a hiberfil.sys file in it...hopefully it's small if there is one.

If you are going to use such a small boot SSD, I'd suggest also installing a space 2.5" HDD to get the recovery partition. The restore recovery program will put the recovery partition on the 2nd drive if it finds one, otherwise it's all put on the single drive it finds.

Good luck, I'm curious if the 64GB will work, but pretty sure it won't, it depends on the size image laid down, and I'm pretty sure it's total usage is larger than 64GB when including the Hiberfil.sys (1x memory) and pagefile.sys. Given the recovery partition also is included when there is only 1 storage device, it's highly unlikely it will work.

 

Ok I will make another MSI BurnRecovery USB flash stick then so I will have 2.

Well I would like to get another SSD but I'm waiting to get a much bigger one when I'm ready to purchase another. I remember my spare 64gb SSD had about 30gb left after win 10 was installed on my old G75VW asus. Maybe it will work, maybe not (probably not). Doesn't hurt to try as its free and it's the only spare drive I have on hand at the moment.

My computer has the stock 8gb of ram. I'm assuming it's one stick. I will admit I have no idea what you are talking about when you refer to hiberfil.sys lol. As I read it you mean each 1 GB less of memory is 1GB less of space used on the SSD during recovery/restore which may be important seeing as I will be using the recovery on a small 64gb SSD.

The 64GB SSD I have is a 2.5", I think the GT73 only has 1 2.5" bay so I can't throw a spare 2.5" in (which I literally only have the 2.5" 64gb SSD right now). I am apparently down in my stock of laptop parts lol. So since my GT73 came with a 128SSD and the 1TB 2.5", that means the recovery partition for sure is on the 2.5" 1 TB? If so I will keep that in mind for future reference if I ever upgrade both.

 

Note that if one fails on restore by not finding the recovery data, the other one of the same make / model will fail too.

The failure issue is endemic to a model/type of flash (IDK specifics), so you are better off getting a couple of different make / model units to make sure you create a good one.

If both work, which they likely will work, you want more than one so if late some night you need a "blank" USB flash drive, and need to sacrifice a solder for the cause, you have another one as backup to the first.

It'll provide a nice data point for all

The Hibernation feature in Windows which is used by FastStartup and SlowShutdown (for hibernation) is on by default. It backs up all of RAM and creates a hidden file in C:\ that is the size of RAM. Smaller RAM = Smaller file.

There may be a Hiberfil.sys already in the OS Recovery Image, so it won't matter how much memory you have until it boots and reconfigures the size of the hiberfil.sys file to match your memory size.

You can use the Storage snap app in the System Info to look at partitioning - check each drive for partition sized about 20GB, not sure about Windows 10 layout - I don't use it

 

Please help . I plan on doing a clean install. Whether to backup activation microsoft office + visio via Store folder. Safe and not a problem later on

 

GT73VR 6RF question:

Is it possible to set a GPU temp target using afterburner or some other tool?

 

No. You can mod the temp with the pascal bios editor but that requires a SPI programmer.

 

GT73VR 7RF 449-UK question :
after I installed the new update MSI True Color, my laptop display is not good with SRGB setting.
when I changed into Gamer, it looks good ?
what happened ? before update it looks fine with SRGB