The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

My honest opinion? If you're gaming, get the 7820HK.
A 7820hk at 4.5 ghz on 4 cores is 32% faster than a 7700HQ at 3.4 ghz on 4 cores. In a purely CPU limited situation, this is a 32% FPS improvement. That means, 60 FPS becomes 80 FPS, etc.
This is noticeable if you're a gamer.
And you can just leave it at stock until you feel comfortable and want to push stuff. Stock on the MSI is usually 3.9 ghz on all cores, but after a CMOS reset, sometimes it becomes 39/37/36/35 (1, 2, 3 and 4 cores). It's worth it over a 7700HQ.

 

Sure, as @Falkentyne said, @4.5ghz it's a real difference. You may not see a 32% FPS increase in games, but all the CPU driven benchmarks will. If you are trying to drive 120fps @ 1080p, you want all the CPU performance you can get.

IDK if you can really run at 4.5ghz in gaming, I needed to run the Fan Boost - a little loud for my taste, but I run @ 4.2ghz all 4 cores @ -125mV, and it runs p95 in the 70's on auto fans.

Resale value will go up too, the OC'able CPU's bring up the value / desirability.

OC'ing with MSI Dragon Gaming Center is easy. 4.2ghz on all 4 cores is just 4 sliders away, and then the GPU tab gives you 200mhz/350mhz on GPU core/memory, and that's easy too.

You can get serious with XTU to undervolt, disable Turbo Boost Limit - set power to 250w / 100A so the CPU stays at full multiplier all the time, and OC the multipliers to bring it to 4.2/4.3/4.4/4.5ghz - I haven't tried 4.6ghz...

Here's a Firestrike run @ 4.5ghz with only MSI DGC GPU OC:
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13826005

Then there's MSI Afterburner to get a few more mhz out of the GPU Core/Memory.

You can certainly enjoy the laptop with a 7700HQ, but what the heck, you only buy a new laptop every couple of years, and $300 over 24 months isn't much

 

MSI has some really bizarre presets. Thanks to @sirgeorge 's work, it seems like they are tuned specifically for Adaptive vcore and Auto LLC (AC/DC). So you basically just set the multiplier you want, and the auto settings just set everything for you and then you just use it. Then if you want to undervolt, do that in Throttlestop and the thermals are under control. Some of us repaste or go full out on LM, with proper preparation, and then you can keep everything on auto and even run prime if you want (even at 4.5 ghz--but with AVX and FMA3 disabled in local.txt), fully on auto fans.

However MSI seems to have done something with the default settings you will never see on any desktop. The instant you decide to pushing the laptop for benchmark scores or maximum FPS at maximum speeds, you may find auto adaptive falling short. The first thing is to first make sure the cache ratio is either capped at x36 (the default), or set to 3 lower than core (this happens if default is overridden, and can only be overcome by forcing minimum cache ratio to the same speed as the CPU multiplier, which sacrifices stability for nothing but benchmark scores. If you want maximum cinebench scores, you set cache ratio to cpu ratio 1:1. If setting cache lower helps stability then great. But then you may decide you want to take full power and do what the desktop and DTR with socketed CPU guys do--switch to manual vcore.

And then you run into a problem.

In most systems, Loadline Calibration set to "Auto" follows intel's VRM specifications, which is basically the same as disabled. Vcore at idle matching close to set vcore, vcore at load with a 50-100mv vdroop. But MSI's auto setting seems to actually ENABLE LLC, rather than disable it, and it gives a generous amount of it too. This is not much of an issue at all with adaptive vcore, except for the very bizarre finding by sirgeorge, that adaptive vcore does NOT report the actual vcore being used, but seems to report (underreport) a significantly lower voltage than what is actually being used (power draw and temps give that away). So then, setting manual vcore to match what you were seeing with adaptive, and stress test, and the thermals and power draw just go through the roof. Regular users who don't have access to the Loadline settings would instantly see this problem if setting Throttlestop or intel XTU to Static voltages.

Apparently, an AC/DC loadline of "1" is MSI's version of "Loadline Disabled." Then you get your vdroop (and unstable high overclocks). If you set the right target mV voltage on manual, an AC/DC loadline of 20-25 results in VERY tight regulation, and LOWER temperatures than Adaptive + LLC at Auto (0). But you would need to have an unlocked Bios to access that (Either by donating to Svet, or unlocking it yourself with sirgeorge's tutorial).

Yet, using a Loadline of 20-25 with adaptive voltage just makes the computer BSOD (if you are doing overclocks)...(You would need at least 125-145 AC/DC LLC with adaptive, which can stabilize some things while possibly causing other issues due to the strange regulation (145 LLC however with adaptive still uses less power and lower temps than Auto LLC. Manual voltage + 20-25 AC/DC LLC gives most stable results if vcore is set properly).

 

The Physics score is all too low for 4.5GHz. Should be more like +14500.
Edit. Is it done with Msi and HM175 chipset?

 

Yes, but that post is all I've got time for on that laptop. The CPU cache was left at 3.6ghz, that's likely one of the limiting factors.

Enjoy it for what it is.

 

so MSI put shipment & handling charges for USA and Canada too for parts if laptop in warranty.....

 

Yeah, I can se that

 

You sir are a star. Is this the HDD I need?

Just to confirm, this is for the MSI GT73VR 7RE (Titan SLI 4K) 285UKL

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-Factor/dp/B01LXO31IZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1507746180&sr=1-1&keywords=seagate+4tb+2.5&th=1

 

Yeah, I did the usual cleanup and lock down, but still not happy with Windows 10, especially after enjoying Windows Vista, 7, 8.1 stable operation all the while Windows 10 has caused so much grief for so many.

Windows 10 has another couple of years of cooking before it's done, if ever...

I also locked down Windows 10 updates so Oct 17th doesn't kill it...

 

Yes it's the same HDD but 4TB and no it's not possible to fit it in SLI model, in your laptop the empty bay next to HDD(s) is occupied by 2nd GPU, there is zero room to fit anything. and you cannot replace 1TB 7mm drive with anysize of 15mm drive, the drive connector will not align with MB connector and it will not fit.

In my case, I have empty space and I remove 1TB and used SATA III extenstion cable to connect and fit 4TB in that empty space...

some snap shots

 

Very impressive. So can I change my HDD to a bigger version at all then and if so, what would my options be?

 

Mechanical Drive 2TB is the only option.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-Ba...07746180&sr=1-1&keywords=seagate+4tb+2.5&th=1

alternate you can go with SSD 4TB if money is not any issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E4T0B-AM/dp/B01G844OOO

 

hi everyone.

Sorry that I did'nt update sooner but my gt75 just came back. So after the tech check it, it still was'nt working, even him could'nt tell me why. I tried so many times to reset the bios but it did'nt worked. So I tried to reset the lappy 3 times on a row, spam f3, etc and.... VOILA! Boot cycling and everything works perfectly.
I really was about to give up, I know lot of you gave me advices but I was'nt confident enough and not in the mood too to give it a try... I mean I was really desperate... all my savings was in this laptop.
Anyway, now it works perfectly, it reboots normally too. I want to thanks you guys for all your advices, especially hmscott, Falkentyne!

again excuse my poor english

 

That's good that it's working.

If the laptop followed the design of the GT72, then it has two Bios chips (the GT72 had two bios chips, but it's unknown if the GT73 has two Bios chips or not). I know that RAM issues can prevent a CMOS reset from working properly.

 

guys im ready to pull the trigger but i was wondering, is it worth it to pay 30 bucks for a 30 day dead pixel warranty or is this not needed?

 

I'd do it if it was my money

where are you getting it from? HIDevolution?

If yes, then don't forget to email [email protected] to get your NBR Discount

 

im gonna try to get it from ibuypower since they happen to have 5% off everything.

 

Remember, when you buy from HIDevolution, you also get their internal tech support. As we all know MSI's tech support is a joke so having your system builder's internal tech support by your side is a good advantage. Additionally, HIDevolution has very good contacts with the seniors from MSI so if you're stuck with MSI's tech support, they can get you proper solutions/answers from MSI seniors. As an example, when I got my GT73VR Titan Pro, the GSYNC option was missing, I couldn't find it to enable it in the nVIDIA Control Panel. I contacted MSI's tech support and they all told me that they never advertised this laptop to be GSYNC compatible despite what all the reviews say that it IS GSYNC. then HIDevolution contacted the seniors at MSI and got me sorted in no time.

Also remember that if you join the HIDevolution Gaming Team, I'll help you tweak your laptop via a TeamViewer session, here are the tweaks that I do:

1- Uninstallation of all the Windows Store Garbage Apps
2- Removing all Windows 10 Privacy Invasion stuff like Telemetry, sending your keystrokes to Microsoft, automatically installing suggested apps in the background, allowing Microsoft to conduct experiments on your laptop, disabling automatic driver updates through Windows updates, disabling Windows 10 ads, disabling cortana, etc.
3- Removal of nVIDIA and Intel Telemetry
4- Adjusting a lot of options in PC Settings like disabling Windows Tablet Mode (you have a laptop not a tablet), disabling suggestions appearing in the start menu, disabling automatically connecting to Paid WiFi Hotspots, disabling Game DVR which reduced performance in games, and a lot more.
5- Replacing Cortana with a much better search tool that finds results instantly
6- Restoring the classic Windows 7 Calculator and Windows Photo Viewer
7- Restoring the Classic Windows 7 Start Menu
8- Turning off smart multi-homed DNS name resolution in Windows which may lead to DNS Leakage when using a VPN (must have Windows 10 Pro for disabling it as it can only be disabled via the Group Policy Editor)

 

only problem is that hidevolution doesnt have the exact model i want :/

 

so i finally pulled the trigger. i ended up ordering the gt73evr which is the one with the 7700hq. i feel that this is better for me because im not really up for tinkering with anything, i just wanna set it and forget it and have fun with it without messing with tho i do plan to put an intel wifi card in it once i get it and possibly get a second ssd for it, i also opted for the seller to do a clean install so i wont have any of that garbage bloatware on it.

 

You should reconsider the erasing of the stock image. It comes in handy when you need a sanity check. If you can't get something to work on your own OS install, you can restore the out of the box OS and see if the problems go away. It's helped lots of people get back on track.

Some of the MSI tools (or specific versions) aren't available to download, so you will be out if you blow away the OS. Ironically, the MSI BurnRecovery backup tool that lets you make a bootable recovery image of the recovery partition onto USB 3.0 32GB flash drive or DVD's is one of those tools.

At least ask the vendor to do the MSI BurnRecovery backup onto a fast USB 3.0 flash drive, so you have it for RMA validation - MSI asks you to restore to the out of the box OS to test for the problem before they will issue an RMA.

It's easier to uninstall or disable a couple of apps / services than it is to reinstall the OS, download all the drivers and apps, and waste time recreating what MSI already spent a lot of engineering time building for you.

You can always install a from scratch OS, but you only get one shot at backing up the MSI Recovery volume, before you reformat and lose it.

 

other than the recovery software is there any other vital stuff i really need that isnt downloadable? i feel like it would be better to have a blank slate then just download whatever i actually need (which wont be a lot other than my games and drivers)

 

Your feelings not withstanding, I've seen lots of people head down that road and come back asking for someone to give them a copy of the MSI OS image. MSI won't send it to you, others won't either as it's too big, you'll need a close by friend or store with the same model so you can drive over and create the bootable recovery USB 3.0 32GB flash drive.

You can think your smarter than MSI, or Asus, or whoever builds your laptop, and maybe you are, but they've already spent the time and created the image, you might as well take advantage of the work they've done.

You can always uninstall or disable an application you don't want.

There really isn't that much unnecessary there, people make a much bigger deal out of it all than it really is, by a country mile (that's a really long mile).

I don't know what isn't downloadable except for MSI BurnRecovery, as that's what the guys that blow away their MSI OS image to do a "clean" install are asking for.

They come back hoping that they can download MSI BurnRecovery and use the recovery partition - for the ones that didn't reformat. I can't find it downloadable online, and even if they could it won't restore. In the brief time a version was online for download people tried and couldn't get it to work. There must have been config / data on the original OS boot drive to support the restore.

Then there are the original versions of drivers or apps on the original MSI OS image, that MSI hasn't uploaded, and there is something wrong or not what they want as part of the newer versions available.

Either way, it's like actually throwing money away by not backing up the original OS, you paid for it, you might as well benefit from it

 

well i’ll see if they can change that option once they process the order

 

If your request doesn't come in in time, they have other units they can run MSI BurnRecovery on, and send you the USB 3.0 32GB flash drive

 

i should be able to change it since ive heard that you can change options if u just talk to tech support. though i cant until monday since they arent open so ive gotta wait. is it worth it to get a screen calibration on this laptop btw?

 

Screen calibration needs to be redone over time, it's better to put the money into your own test tool, they are usually on sale - black friday is coming - and some public libraries have them for loaning out.

They should have an email address to send for sales and one for support, you could try that now to catch anyone doing weekend catchup work. Include your order number or whatever id numbering they use for new orders.

Follow up Monday to make sure someone read it and acted on it

 

alright thanks

 

I just would like to say, what a superb laptop in almost every way, the cooling is simply something that i never foreseen on a laptop, the screen is majestic, not IPS level but by far the best laptop screen i seen to play, the keyboard is much better than the steelseries on the GT70, seems that MSI have learn how to develop better laptops over time, and one of the most important to me, its not super noisy, even with the hardware it has, much better than anything that i seen from Asus, Sager, or Alienware.

There are two drawbacks for me though, nothing is perfect.

1) Speakers, i dislike the bottom placement, i understand why they are there, but i hate it. And the sound i feel is a downgrade from the GT70 (i have both side by side), that said the headphone output is much better than on the GT70, i feel we lost on the speakers and gain on the headphones, to me a good trade off, but none the less i do miss the audio from the GT70 specially the top orientation.

2) Size, while not much larger than the GT70 (a good inch on on the back), it doesn't fit my prefer travel bag for my GT70, Kensington 62348 Contour Roller Carrying Case, i bought the Everki TITAN EKP120 which is a superb and perfect match for this laptop, none the less i do move a lot and a backpack will wear me down sooner or later, so i order the Everki TITAN Laptop Trolley EK420. That said, i feel much space is not well optimized in the inside due to trying to keep this laptop SLI capable, i think its a mistake on MSI, its a very little market, i feel they could have made it slightly smaller and utilize the storage side ways, maybe even get better speakers in for the amount of space there is not utilized on none SLI setups.

 

Hello,
I have Msi gt 73 6rf titan pro laptop.
I would like to ask is it normal if I made my custom curve with dragon centre(advance fans) that laptop turn off fans on 0 rpm when I am not touching laptop at all for about 20 mins? Cpu and gpu is then 32 c. As soon as I touch mouse and star doing something laptop turn on fans how I set. First two curves on 25%?
Also I would like to ask you guys when Laptop is in comfort mode with auto fans is it normal that fans are agresive,laptop ramping fans for 20 sec then slowing down again. This is happening when I am on facebook or youtube...When is in turbo or sport fans ramping more often.

Thank you for answers guys!
Have a good day!

 

I don't like the bottom placement.

My MSI gt72 was way better than my 7 years old Acer in terms of sound.

Now my GT73VR is in RMA, and I use my old Acer. I find the sound better on this old laptop...

I'm demanding in sound

Sound is not bad but not perfect

 

As far your first question, it's not possible that when you touch the mouse or keyboard, Fans auto turn on there is no such feature but yes you can set the Fans RMP to 0 using Custom Fan curve, just set first bar of CPU / GPU to zero and Fans will stop and even laptop idle both CPU / GPU temp start rising but very very slow and when temp will reach within range of 2nd bar of CPU / GPU fan curve, fans will auto start.

since you haven't cleared that both CPU / GPU fans behaving the same way, where Fans ramping and then slowing down, I see this behavior when you use laptop on bed and blocks the bottom air intake vents.

 

so when i upgrade stuff i like the wifi card i gotta take out this rainbow colored battery cable first right? some people say you dont need to unplug the battery but some say its a must, just wondering what you guys think for when i get my laptop.

 

It's a good rule, always disconnect the battery when disassembling or enable something inside your notebook. It takes less than 10 seconds.

 

ok, i was just asking to see if it really mattered or not, ive upgraded laptops before and i did take out the cable on one but i forgot to once on a different computer and it was fine so i was just wondering if it made a difference. i’ll try to make it a habit to unplug it from now on

 

There is current going through the laptop if the battery is connected. Otherwise the power button would never be able to work, since modern power buttons are not old style relays that allow current to flow from the PSU to the mainboard, or make a closed circuit and block current if disengaged. And current means, if something bridges one of the VRM's or chokes you're going to have a bad day and some magic smoke to put you to sleep.

JUST removing the wifi card or even the RAM modules will not destroy the laptop if the battery is connected. But if ANY metal drops from your hands and gets on something it shouldn't be on....yes..that can destroy the laptop if there's even standby power flowing through the thing. There may not be power flowing to that area, but you don't want to find out where standby power is going.

 

Hello,
Could some owner of Gt 73 6rf or 7rf help please?

Thank you !

Edit : I have not seen answer. Sorry for this post

 

Thank you for your answer! I think I have not described good. I am using now my custom advance curve and when laptop is on idle temperatures are very low like 32C for both cpu and gpu. Laptop automatically turn off my fans to 0rmp even if I set first two bars to 25% for cpu. My second question was is normal for laptop when is on comfort mode and auto fans curve to ramp fans sometimes when I am browsing on facebook or youtube. My laptop sometimes reach 52-53C in comfort mode while I am not gaming just using laptop for browsing or music. In turbo mode my laptop reach more without gaming like 62 C. Is that normal? Also I can hear light coil whine in turbo and sport mode. There is no coil whine in comfort mode but I think I can hear it because on turbo laptop cpu is stuck on 4ghz even if I am not doing anything. Thank you for help!

 

Always remove sources of power from your laptop when you work on removing / adding hardware. It's just common sense

You wouldn't think to leave the external power plugged in while working on it, why would you think leaving the internal power plugged in is ok? If you accidentally touch the power button when handling the laptop, the power will turn on.

I've seen that happen in youtube video's, when demonstrating how to work on a laptop, the screen all of a sudden powers on and the laptop starts to try to boot. That's a pretty silly situation to find yourself in.

If you unplug RAM and plug in new RAM with power on, or unplug a SATA cable / power cable to plug in new hardware, pull out an M.2 SSD and put in another one, any power in the circuit could cause a problem with either the device being removed or the one being plugged in.

When the battery was easily removable it was easy, to disassemble the laptop the battery would be pulled out, and you were safe - except for the CMOS battery, but that was easy to disable if necessary.

The battery cable should be easy to see and unplug, do it before pulling arc's from sockets or shorting pins when trying to plug things in.

 

When you said custom curve did you mean a customized EC firmware? Or stock EC firmware?
The temperature seems okay because the system will not let the processor reach 90C or above.

 

agree that removing, wifi card, Ram, HDD, SDD will not destroy the laptop but it possibly leads to black screen...90% chance...messing with RAM while battery plugged in you will defiantly ends on black screen...

 

Both mentioned behaviors are not normal.

mine GT73

Custom Fan Curve, first 2 bars set on 25% fans always spins no matter what will be the temperature.

Comfort mode temperature even barely touch 40...

Turbo Mode, while gaming CPU hits 62 but while browsing (chrome and above 20 tabs opened) or watching movies, CPU temp never even cross 45.

 

Well I solved my DDR4 RAM problems.

Xotic PC had the wise idea of including 2x8GB of Hynix (Hyundai) DDR4 2400 SODIMM RAM with the existing default Kingston 2x8GB 2400 mhz Valueram on a 32GB configured system (the original RAM which is relabeled and SPD programmed as a MSI branded Ram but is the exact same Kingston retail part). I always had problems whenever doing Bios flashes, with the system failing to post after a flash, and requiring the 45 second power button for clear cmos, or even when trying to change RAM timings from Command Rate 2T to 1T and having it fail to retrain, or failing to POST, sometimes through multiple attempts, although once the settings actually stuck, without a boot failure and it did retrain properly, it worked fine.

It became obvious months ago that something was up, when trying to change from 1T back to default timings, caused a POST failure and retrain failure and required a clear CMOS.

Eventually I started getting BSOD's with a very bizarre situation.

And this was eventually followed by the system being PERMANENTLY unable to POST at all...except one attempt at 2400/17/17/39/1T (which actually "worked"--it let me into windows) but the training wasn't complete...while it was fully stable...it failed to POST after shutting down windows---and then never POSTED again.

This one or one of these took me HOURS to solve--yes--hours out of my day...meaning I could not even GET INTO THE BIOS AT ALL, despite...repeated CHAIN CMOS CLEARS, (if i ever DID Get into the Bios, windows would just BSOD...with STOCK timings...although I went almost THREE HOURS straight with a black screen) until I remembered some post by @Shehary saying that removing RAM dimms would solve black screens if you had a timing change fail, so I tried that (and i saw that the accessible two top RAM slots were both Hynix dimms, so I removed those and prayed....and the system booted right up after a retrain. I was literally about to take out the videocard and HW flash the system Bios, as I thought it was bricked !!!!


Any of the Hynix dimms (Either one) in RAM slot *4* would often cause a BSOD after retraining, at default settings, then a POST failure right after (since clearly the training didnt go properly). With either of the Hynix Dimms in slot 3, the system retrained a lot better.

I thought maybe dimm slot 4 was just defective, so then I tried setting the RAM multiplier from 9 to 8 (133 x 8 =1064, 1064 (DDR)=2133 mhz), and the system retrained perfectly with all 4 RAM dimms inserted. I was even able to set the timings from 17-17-39-2T to 14-14-32-1T at 2133 mhz and the system worked just fine. So then I knew the RAM slot or the CPU IMC couldn't be defective.

So I ordered the Kingston non MSI branded part number to match the existing parts:

2x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW6HBSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arrived today, I inserted them, system reloaded the previous 2133/14/14/32/1T settings without needing to reset, then I set it to 2400 / 17/17/39/1T (didn't even bother with 2T) and it worked perfectly, as I suspected it would.

So then for good measure I set it to 2400, 15/15/35/1T, it retrained and booted, ran memtest86 ( https://www.memtest86.com/ ) off a flash drive just in case so I wouldn't scramble the OS, no errors, settings held and works fine.

Edit* for some reason (completely unrelated to the RAM whatsoever), UEFI mode on memtest86 just black screens (after POST is finished) when trying to access the flash drive and the MSI Cancer Bios thinks the RAM timings failed to "boot" since the "OS" (USB flash drive) "Froze", so it reverts to default settings. Legacy mode boots fine to memtest86, and I'm not going to waste hours again trying to fix more MSI firmware shenanigans to see if UEFI memtest86 is any different.

@Tanner@XoticPC

Please tell your guys NOT to mix and match different RAM sets like this. It causes problems. The Hynix dimms (HMA81GS6AFR8N) do not cooperate well with the default Kingston 2400 Valueram dimms (KVR24S17S8). This is not a desktop motherboard. Laptops are a lot more finicky, especially without access to VCCIO or DDR voltage, etc.

Please make sure all 4 RAM dimms match when people are configuring their systems.

 

What can I do about it? I RMA this laptop once because of dead pixel and that one had temperature same like this one. I have gt72 domninator pro who is warming a little bit less that this one. How is your Cpu in comfort mode 40 Celsius whit all that work? Your Cpu never spikes like when you open a chrome from 35 to 44 and then fast back?

 

It is stock one. Is my temps now normal or not? In gaming with advance fans my temps are 66 for Cpu 74 for Gpu. And with browsing,opening apps I wrote my temps in last post. I am very confused right now.

 

Those are EXCELLENT temps!

 

Thank you for answer! I was confused because Shehary told me that this temps are not good because I do not how his laptop is much cooler than mine without gaming. I will copy text from last past when I described my temps WITHOUT gaming. Is this normal? Thank you so much for help !

My second question was is normal for laptop when is on comfort mode and auto fans curve to ramp fans sometimes when I am browsing on facebook or youtube. My laptop sometimes reach 52-53C in comfort mode while I am not gaming just using laptop for browsing or music. In turbo mode my laptop reach more without gaming like 62 C. Is that normal? Also I can hear light coil whine in turbo and sport mode. There is no coil whine in comfort mode but I think I can hear it because on turbo laptop cpu is stuck on 4ghz even if I am not doing anything. Thank you for help!

 

As long as the coil whine doesn't bother you...everything else is quite normal.

 

He didn't say your temps were not normal. Just how Dragon Center is behaving.
Most of us here don't use Dragon Center. The automatic fan settings tend to be fine if you are not extreme overclocking.

As far as your temps:

Download Prime 95
then download HWinfo64, latest version, run the sensors.

Prime 95=29.x latest version. Run it and HWinfo at the same time.

Run SMALL FFT 8 thread stress test, on MANUAL 100% fan speed, use the cooler boost button on the laptop (if necessary, close Dragon Center completely).
Let it run for 5 minutes.

Take a screenshot of the HWinfo64 tab that has the CPU VCORE, and CPU core temperatures visible (should say min, max average, etc).
Post those here.

Then we can see how the temps are.

*IF YOU REACH 100C*, tell us, then close prime95, open the folder prime95 is in, look for a file called LOCAL.TXT, open it, and add these two lines to the bottom of local.txt:


CpuSupportsAVX=0
CpuSupportsFMA3=0

Then save it, run prime95 again SMALL FFT 8 threads and you should say "Pentium 4" or "Type 0 FFT" and much lower temps.

When you take the screenshot of the HWinfo +prime test, please tell us if AVX was ENABLED or DISABLED.

 

Thank you for very good answer and instructions. I will do that and post for you guys here. I am reinstalling win 10 now as soon as I finish with drivers I will do that. If I am not using dragon centre how to make profiles like comfort,sport,turbo. I do not wanna my cpu to be all the time on 4ghz just when I am gaming. Thank you