The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

You use Throttlestop. You can set profiles and even undervolt or overvolt on all four profiles. The battery profile becomes active if battery is used, but I think you need to set that in the options. You can also set which profile is the default profile for when you launch Throttlestop.
You will also want to choose "save voltages when closing Throttlestop." This is just in case you go wild with a setting and your computer crashes instantly, then the setting isn't instantly saved.

If you intend to UNDERVOLT in one profile, but NOT in another profile, this requires a bit more work.

You unlock CPU adjustable voltage and cache vcore in the TS options and set your undervolt (offset) if you're using adaptive voltage. Then, for profiles where you do NOT want to undervolt, you *MUST* unlock CPU adjustable voltage anyway, and make sure it's set to "default" for both CPU and cache, in the other profiles. That's because if you don't do this, the other profiles will use the previous undervolt, since you didn't specify any voltage changes for that profile, so the last 'active' voltage gets used. To avoid this, as I said, if you want to use stock volts in a certain profile (but undervolt in a separate profile), unlock adjustable voltage and set the voltage to default.

Then changing voltages and speeds is as easy as pressing a button.
You can also save the "speedstep" level (0 - 255) per profile as well. However one thing that is NOT per profile, is the speedstep mutliplier range. I only mention this because, there may be times, when you are on battery power, that you want the CPU to run at 800 mhz at all times. The way to force that is to set speedstep range min and maximum to both = 8. But this is global, so you would have to change it manually. I usually have it 8-46 for mine.

The only thing you can't do in Throttlestop is control the fans. There is a program which SHOULD work for Kaby Lake, called "MSI Silent Option." it is basically the fan only component of Dragon center. It has been tested and works on the skylake GT73VR (6Rx). Someone said it works on the Kaby Lake version, but I don't know how many people tested it. You can try that.

There is only one "problem" with Throttlestop, and this is more of a MSI Bios issue.
In the Bios, you can set the maximum uncore (cache) ratio, e.g. 45x. However, the maximum allowed cache ratio that you will be able to USE in Throttlestop will be equal to the CPU CORE multiplier set in the Bios for booting the PC, minus 3 (cache ratio is by default CPU ratio minus 3), the maximum cache ratio being the CPU multiplier, and the minimum cache ratio being x36 (lower if the CPU is 3800 mhz or lower). If you set your Bios to boot at x35 or something for the CPU core, and you had throttlestop overclock profile to x45 (4500 mhz), the cache would be locked at x36 due to the MSI Bios shenanigans. To get around this, you would have to unlock "cache adjustable voltage" (again) and set the cache slider manually, and THEN change the min/max cache range.

in some extreme cases, you can FORCE the cache to run at a certain speed by brute force, by setting min and max cache to the same value (because otherwise the "cpu multiplier -3" rule would always make the cache run 300 mhz under core).

 

I very grateful for all help! Really thank you so much! I am not sure do I want to undervolt. I just want to be everything like on dragon centre. I think default Volt is fine for me. Just to have one 4 ghz profile and one like comfort mode in Dragon centre. Could I install dragon centre from dominator pro gt72 2qe? It is working fine on that laptop. I have both.

 

The problem with Dragon Center is, it tends to not play nice with Intel XTU and Throttlestop. TS pretty much does everything you could ever want anyway, besides fan control, without being bloatware. And you have much more control. You can set the multipliers, set what you want for battery power, undervolt, overvolt, overclock, and use speedshift. You are perfectly free to use DC if you want. But to many of us, it's bloatware. And some people don't care about bloatware, but many of us do.
Pretty much the only 'essential' MSI utility you need is SCM, so the FN key hotkeys work.

Anyway don't forget about the prime95 and HWinfo tests and screenshot.

 

You are running cool enough to not need to undervolt. The GT73VR has good enough cooling out of the box to not require it, but it's still recommended, because it's easy and quick and doesn't require a lot of risk, unlike disassembling the laptop for re-pasting.

You could download and install Intel Extreme Tuning Utility, and just move that one slider to undervolt - CPU voltage offset to -100mV (-.100V) and call it a day, most CPU's will be stable with that setting and it provides a good drop in temps under load.

If you have time you could play with setting the undervolt a little lower at a time until you crash, then back off +10mV (+.010V) to get the most benefit from undervolting, lowering the temperature at load the maximum.

The last GT73vr CPU I stopped at -125mV, at -135mV it was unstable.

It's free cooling, and cooler running CPU's last longer (theoretically), and it will stave off re-pasting for a longer time. It will likely be years before you need re-pasting for thermal throttling.

Or, you could just run without doing anything except tuning in MSI Dragon Gaming Center, I doubt you will thermal throttle except in prime95 small fft - and even then using hwinfo64 for monitoring just click the readings reset button after 30 seconds of running and clear the thermal throttling readings and they won't come back.

Thermal throttling will happen in prime95 to most notebooks out of the box using stock fan curve. The fans don't spin up fast enough to cool the instant load prime95 makes, but after the fans spin up they cool just fine and won't continually thermal throttle.

Have fun with your new laptop

 

@ Ivan994
You can make MSI DGC and XTU co-exist pretty easily. Just make sure you keep the DGC CPU multiplier settings at 42x and GPU OC sliders at max (so you don't need to go back in again later), and then you can set XTU CPU sliders higher than 42, I got up to 45 with no undervolt as my last setting.

As soon as you go in and adjust DGC OC or change the running profile, you need to go back in to DGC CPU/GPU OC and set highest settings, and then go back in to XTU to set higher than 42x multiplier.

One does interfere with the other, but you can find a sequence of order to the settings to allow them to both be active - so you can at minimum set the undervolt in XTU, which you can't do in DGC.

Long term I'd uninstall DGC, keep XTU, and install MSI Afterburner for GPU OC, and try MSI Silent Option for fan control.

But, it's not necessary, DGC GPU max OC + XTU 45x x 4 cores, is enough for great performance.
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13826005

Spending a bit more time bumping up the CPU Cache multiplier in XTU might get a bit more CPU performance, and there is likely another 1k in GPU performance available via MSI Afterburner, but in games you might not be able to notice the difference anyway

 

Thank you guys. I learn a lot today! I will try to make like you because I love dragon centre, It is easy to use and looks good Could you please share your temp with my while you are on facebook, watching youtube and doing basic staff. I could reach in mine in comfort mode easy 52-53 C sometimes but then drop fast to 45+C. In turbo I could reach 60C sometimes but also drop fast. In Idle (when I am not doing anything my temps are 35+C). I will share my tests soon.
Thank you once again !

 

My temps won't matter because I'm using liquid metal thermal compound, so they won't be that useful to you. I can tell you that at 100% fan speed at 4.5 ghz, 1155mv manual voltage override, and 25 AC/25 DC loadline (CPU VR settings->CPU power and performance->Intel IA Domain), I will never exceed 70 degrees C under anything except prime95 (at 100% fan speed).

 

You can run in Turbo mode with High Performance set all the time, the temps will be ok

No need to cut out / down the performance you paid for, please don't think temperatures are so important. It's mostly for keeping the fans quiet that most of us do it.

The CPU / GPU can take care of themselves and will thermal throttle or completely shutdown before doing themselves damage, so there's no need to get overly concerned.

After testing at maximum load, and getting good temps - with or without undervolting at 4.2ghz with maximum GPU overclock, I wouldn't get overly fixated on watching temperatures. Just check back every few months, or sooner if the fans start spinning more than usual.

You've got great temperatures, now enjoy the full performance of your laptop

 

Thank you, I will worry less and relax just to ckeck everythink I started watching temps because my fans speed up sometimes on comfort mode while I am just browsing and open apps in turbo more. I used to quiet dominator pro with 5700hq and 980m which never speed up without gaming That is why this is so strange to me

 

In DGC there is a Custom fan curve, you can raise the bottom setting to kick in less often by kicking in at higher temperatures.

If you run in Balanced mode instead of High Performance, which is what I do for day to day use, the CPU will get a chance to downclock and cool off quicker, also it won't heat up as quickly at lower clocks.

Setting everything to high performance OC is for benchmarking / gaming on borderline FPS games, otherwise there is enough power in Balanced mode for most applications and gaming.

The time spent tuning and setting custom profiles will pay off in the long run, and give you the "mode" you want for the use modes you use.

Also, you can make a custom Windows Power Plan where the Max CPU / Processor % is 99% instead of 100%, that turns off CPU Turbo, and only runs at base clock speed, which for many things is enough, and that will reduce the temperatures generated for browsing and light use.

Remember though, browsing can be a large load with lots of tabs open, ad's refreshing, pages refreshing - you can mitigate this with plugins that pause or suspend background tabs automatically.

 

Thank you, I am feeling much better when I know that evetything is normal. I set first to bars in dragon centre to 25%,there is no speed up anymore just laptop sometimes lower fans when on idle now my temps drop to 29 It is 6am in my coutry I will post tests tomorrow. I must sleep,It was a long night
Thank you guys all for help and your time. I am very grateful

 

i know how ssd and hdd work differently,
but the display bar on my c drive displays as in the image I uploaded

do i need to defrag on ssd?
auslogics disk defrag offer ssd optimize feature .
does this improve the performance of ssd?

 

You haven't shared much information about your laptop and it's really hard to guess what your laptop Fan / Temp behavior is normal or not.

What Bios / EC firmware version you are using?
Are you using Factory OS or did clean install? If did clean install are you using Win Home or Win Pro ?
Did you re-paste the CPU / GPU ?
What's your room ambient temperature?

as far your question, yes the temp spike when I open chrome from 35 to 40 and then fast back but the spike in temp is only for a second or two but fans doesn't ramp up. and rest you can find in below screen snap shot, I'm using 2 external displays and see the CPU / GPU temperature, Fans set on Advance Curve and CPU on Turbo Boost, you can count the chrome tabs along with thunderbird and photoshop opened and playing youtube video....may be I'm wrong but the temperature and fan RMP showing in snap shot is normal behavior at-least to me.



I'm using latest 6RF Bios / latest 7RF EC firmware
Windows 10 Pro Clean Install
CPU / GPU re-pasted with Thermal Kryo
Room ambient temperature around 30 C

 

hey guys does anyone have suggestions as to a good laptop sleeve for the gt73? id like to get one but i imagine that many 17 inch laptop sleeves may not fit.

 

Look into everki sleeve see if matches what you are looking for

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWL2RK/

Enviado desde mi Pixel mediante Tapatalk

 

That's not a bad sleeve, in fact it's extremely well designed, but that's more like a carrying purse. it also may not fit the GT73VR. You would do well to contact Everki (call them on the phone) and ask. The GT80 SLI would NOT fit in this bag:

If you want something to throw on your shoulders rather than have to carry with your hands, you can try this:

https://www.amazon.com/SLAPPA-Lapto...&qid=1508424033&sr=8-1&keywords=slappa+sleeve

I have that slappa and am happy with it, but if shoulder straps are not your thing, the Everki should be better. I do think the Everki is higher quality. I also don't know about the longevity of the stitching that holds the metal hook loops, as that could be a problem if they ever came undone.

A full fledged bag is here: https://www.amazon.com/Checkpoint-F...&qid=1508424033&sr=8-6&keywords=slappa+sleeve and that's more than just a sleeve, but quality could be iffy. Might be nice if you get a good one. If you went a bit up on the price, you could just get a full fledged Everki Titan....

 

alright, thanks guys

 

I finally purchased a GT73VR Titan, mostly due to the glowing reviews from Phoenix

The two things I was most worried about -- that the display would not match my old Sager 94% Gamut Glossy and that the keyboard would be difficult to adjust to -- were immediately proved unfounded. I'm totally blown away by both. This is the first keyboard I've used that's felt completely natural and have had zero trouble adjusting and using it is such a joy compared to the Clevo one.

Set the same undervolt and 4.2 overclock as he did, zero problems. Gets up to maybe 78 degrees when encoding video (was 100 degrees from my old laptop). I have zero reasons to doubt this purchase.

Thanks to everyone in this thread who helped me decide (especially Phoenix)!

 

Thanks for the details, I'll make sure our build team sees it.

 

Thank you so much for shared everything with me. I have clean install win 10 pro with latest 6 RF bios and latest 6 RF EC firmware. Maybe I should try one from 7 RF?

I am not sure about room temp, I did not re-paste CPU AND GPU everything is stock. Could you share me screenshot of HW monitor. Start Hw monitor do some browsing, youtube in turbo mode and tell me max temp?

Thank you!

 

alright guys so i got the laptop today and ive been testing it out as well as installing a few drivers but i noticed something that doesnt sit right with me. when viewing certain images there seems to be some sort of screen banding. mostly with darker colors. im not sure whether this is normal or if my unit is defective so i will include some pictures to see what you guys think. really need someones help with this one. i havent had a 17 inch laptop before so im unsure if this is normal or not

 

Which model is your GT73VR? And do you know what kind of screen it comes with?

 

Please put your complete model number, and your configuration, in your signature so the we can help you better.

 

So let's see.
I'm running the 4x8GB of Kingston DDR4 2400 valueram (17/17/17/39 2T) at 15/15/15/35 1T, tRTP=5, tWTR=10, tRFC=270, tREFI=32767, and gained a nice boost in bandwidth in Aida64 and drop in latency (from 55'ish ns to 51.2ns). Passed a full loop of memtest86 so I knew I could enter windows without the entire hard drive being scrambled. Running Prime95 non AVX with 24576 RAM size and 512k min FFT.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1630388/comprehensive-memory-overclocking-guide
Let's see if I have to reinstall my OS soon after this, shall we?

@Papusan @Mr. Fox

 

If you want my Kingston HyperX Impact 2400 CL14 SPD to try on your ValueRAM, let me know. Even if you don't want to flash it, manually setting its timing might work for you.

 

its the gt73evr. 120hz 1080p screen

 

I wanted to do test I have promised with Gt73vr 6rf but as soon as I start prime 95 my cpu downclock from 4Ghz to 3.2 Ghz. My cpu never past 70 C in prime 95 after 10 mins but still it is just 3.2 Cpu clock. I used newest version of prime 95. Why I can not test with 4 Ghz?

 

CPU Current limit (ICCMAX) should be raised to 150-200 amps (600-800) in the bios. Value is divided by 4, or whatever it says in your bios. 600/4=150A, 800/4=200A, etc.

 

its the msi gt73evr 7re titan-887XUS as i said its got the 120hz tn full hd screen, im really unsure what to do since idk if this is normal.

 

Is that answer on my question?

 

Hello again,
I have tested prime everything you said and I made screenshot. I ran prime 95 for 15 mins. Here you Are result, but I can not test with 4 GHZ, I do not know why,just with 3.2. As soon as I stardt prime 95 test my CPU downclock from 4 GHZ.

 

I'll say it again.
Change CPU current Limit to 150-200 amps in the bios. Should be in the overclock OC section.

That's not a screenshot of the Bios setting, either.
Also, close dragon center. Dragon center can override Bios settings. I don't use DC so I can't help if that's causing you problems.

 

I will post you my bios settings. My CPU is overclock by DC, If I close it my CPU will back to BIOS STOCK OC to 3.6 GHZ

 

Well don't overclock by DC. Overclock by the Bios settings. Or use Throttlestop. You can set your settings in the Bios you know ?
There is a reason most people here don't use DC. The only purpose of DC compared to Throttlestop 8.48 (Or Intel XTU) + MSI Afterburner, is custom fan curves.
However you MUST change the CPU CURRENT LIMIT.

We told you what to do. You can't complain if you do things your way and don't like the results.

 

There is too much lens flare in those pictures to comment on what you are seeing. Please try taking better pictures, without any flash, and in good focus.

 

these are a couple pics from a gamma test, i cant really get the pictures more detailed then that since i dont have a good camera. the last picture is on a youtube vid.

 

Unfortunately the picture quality is lacking. However given what I see and our technician sees, we cannot discern any issues with your screen.

 

There is some banding on the first batch of pics but can't say if it's normal.

 

Please help me, @Phoenix @Falkentyne @hmscott @Papusan
I add RAM
With the same Frequency And CL the same =17
but when I check using CPU-Z and HWINFO there is a Difference.

Whether this will cause problems??

here I upload the picture


https://imgur.com/fWgR2z0
- Samsung DDR4-2400 SODIMM 8GB M471A1K43CB1-CRC 2x
CAS LATENCY TIMINGS:CL17, 1.2V







https://imgur.com/HFKtMqc
- MICRON DDR4-2400 8ATF1G64HZ-2G3B1
CAS LATENCY TIMINGS: CL17, 1.2V

 

This is why you don't mix manufacturer RAM sticks, even with the same "top level" specifications, as when you get into the details, there are differences, and the interaction between then is indeterminate across motherboard models.

If you had a lot of machines with this combo, I would suggest pulling all the memory from all the machines, match the memory in same make/model sets, so you can install homogeneous (same make/model) memory sets in each machine.

You'd be surprised how such mismatched memory will look good from some tools, and in actual use fail, have unexpected errors and behavior, and those errors go away when pulling the mismatched sticks and putting in the same make / model sticks in matched sets in replacement.

Return the sticks you can return, and fill your memory slots with same make / model memory. I'd recommend buying 2 or 4 SODIMM set's, depending on if you want to fill 2 slots total or 4 slots total.

Even mixing different manufacturing runs can be problematic - like 2 sets of 2 for 4 total slots. Chips used to make the SODIMM can vary from run to run, that's why it's best to get them all at once together from the same run.

Are there situations where mismatched memory works in the applications it's used for? Yes. But, I've seen them then fail when the machines are re-purposed for other uses. It's best not to risk it.

Put the original memory aside, and buy all new matched SODIMM's, for more reliable use in the long run.

 

What you pointed out is not important at all. That's just SPD information. The MSI branded sticks also show they go up to cas 21. The Kingston Valueram sticks (which are simply a newer revision of the MSI sticks; e.g. newer Dram stepping, but same RAM basically, as the MSI sticks are also Kingston Valueram, but without the SPD rebrand) show the exact same thing as your samsung--going up to cas 18. So that's not important.

Whats important is having the same actual PCB and DRAM IC's, not the SPD completely matching like that--just the timings. But the DRAM manufacturers should be the same (Kingston makes the MSI sticks, same PCB, just custom SPD). if the system actually likes those Samsung sticks mixed with the Micron IC's and can train the timings (the timings that are 'trained' are tertiary timings that you only have access to on an unlocked Bios), and whether the system works reliably with them. As a general rule, you should be using the same sticks, e.g. Kingston Valueram with the existing MSI sticks since they are the same manufacturer (Kingston). The chips are the same, the PCB is the same, just a newer build (revision).

Not only that, why are your samsung sticks so old? You just bought it? The kingston Valueram I bought to replace the problematic Hynix Dimms on the frontside are 2017, week 39. Your Samsung is only 2 months older than the MSI sticks. When did you buy those?

Anyway, the best thing to do is to mess around with changing the Command Rate in the Bios to 1T. Do this and then see if the system POSTS without black screening. You will get a MUCH longer POST but it should give you the MSI screen in less than 60 seconds (this is from RAM training). This should be an easy test and will most likely work.

If it does, see if you can get into windows. If you do-now set it back to Command Rate 2T. This is what often will fail with mismatched or Dimms the mainboard or IMC doesn't like. If nothing happens after 60 seconds, the power LED light should turn off and on by itself and the RAM should get reset after another 45 second wait. If the 2T works after 45 seconds, good. Then set it back to 1T and try again.

If after 2 minutes, NOTHING happens at all, then hold the power button down for 50 seconds, to force a clear CMOS. Once the MSI logo boot loops 5 times, set your defaults and go back to windows and report back. Then, do this test a 2nd time to confirm that it is not a fluke.

If you have issues and have to clear CMOS, report back.
You should be able to set Command Rate to 1T without getting 2 minute black screens (the MSI (Kingston) sticks can handle this easily), and you should be able to go back from 1T to 2T after a 45 second retrain (if the system is fully compatible with the mismatched DIMMs). If you have problems just doing this, the Samsung sticks are at fault.

If you had the unlocked Bios, I would tell you to change the RAM ratio to 8 (2133 mhz) and then back to 9 (2400 mhz) several times (instead of CR, because 2133 mhz is GUARANTEED to work), but you dont have access to the ratio on the stock Bios....

Just FYI these are the sticks that you should be using :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW6HBSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These, combined with the MSI sticks, run STABLE at 15-15-15-35 1T, tRTP=5, tWR=10 (must be set to 2xtRTP), tRFC=270, tREFI=32767, without any problems at all.

 

It's not a war or battle to win, it's simply easiest to install 4 sticks of the same memory, rather than waste a bunch of time trying to get dissimilar memory to function reliably together.

If you want to OC, tweak settings, it's much more successful when dealing with one set of parameters, rather than 2.

Of course if you like such challenges, maybe offer to buy his mismatched memory off of him, so he can get matching memory?

 

I'm not trying to start a contest. I just want to make sure the things work.
Well the sticks will either work or don't work at stock timings.

If they work reliably and don't show issues, then he's fine. Otherwise he should RMA.
The Kingston Dimms aren't 100% identical to the MSI dimms since the PCB revision is different. But they're close enough to work properly together.
If he can change command rate 2T to 1T and then BACK to 2T and do this several times repeatedly with the Samsung stuff (each change will cause a very long 45 second POST), then the IMC can handle the sticks. In my case, with those hynix dimms that XOTIC PC installed themselves (I was not the one responsible for that), I would have to CLEAR CMOS every time I went from 1T back to the default (2T).

 

@Djadit
It's actually not always definitive immediately, whether mismatched memory works or not. It can take stages of discovery to find out sometimes it doesn't work.

If you are lucky it doesn't post, or fails reliably, otherwise you may be lulled into a sense of success, only to find out later there are issues. Like when you want to OC or further tune the memory, or use an XMP profile instead of stock settings.

Unfortunately, the problems can be discovered long after the return period has ended, and there is no way to recover the investment - unless you can ditch 1 pair or the other and get 2 more of 1 set - assuming from run to run they are compatible.

Or replace all 4 and be done with it.

That's really the worst scenario, wasting so much time only to find you need to sideline 4 mismatched sticks in a drawer rather than the 2 you would have initially had to sideline.

When spending $xxxx's on a new laptop, it's silly to waste time messing around with mismatched memory, get a matched set and be done with it.

Then you can get back to enjoying your laptop for the purposes you got it in the first place

 

Ok hmscott makes a valid point.
Just RMA the two samsung sticks and get these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW6HBSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can even overclock and tighten the timings and get the latency down to 51 ns.
These sticks are spec'd for 17/17/17/39 2T, with jedec spec tREFI (7.8us, which is 1200 x 7.8=9360, although the Bios shows 9364), but will work just fine at 15/15/15/35 1T, without corrupting your OS, and while I suggest a full pass of Memtest86, you can try tRFC 270 + tREFI 32767 for more bandwidth and lower latency. (tRFC 270 is the easiest value to stabilize and works on decent motherboards and dimms, increasing tREFI higher than 2.5x default requires a non crap mainboard. MSI makes a good mainboard, so 32767 should work if you buy the Kingston stuff but do a full pass of Memtest86 before booting into windows).

Someone said that 2800 mhz sticks will work on the GT73VR, and the unlocked Bios has much higher multipliers than 9 (2400 mhz sticks= 133 mhz x 2 (DDR), x 9=2400), 2133 mhz=133x2x8=2133 mhz, but you're on your own if you want 2800mhz or 3000 mhz sticks on that system; none of us can help you here.

If you just want the Kingston 2400 stuff, 2x8GB, no need to remove the original MSI sticks under they keyboard, as they are 100% compatible as they are Kingston also.

 

it seems that it is also just # cas Latencies Supported with some extra higher numbers. is that number useful for overclocking ram?
whether I'm right or not
ram samsung installed is the default ram when i bought this laptop .
Currently I still have a default stock bios that is locked.
maybe i will try to change the command rate on the bios
Thank you for the help

 

Those numbers you saw mean nothing.
It's just programmed into the SPD as "supported" frequencies, and the Bios doesn't even use those. It just uses the SPD defaults. XMP profiles are not even supported on this motherboard (you would need a Prema Bios for that. Even the unlocked Bios doesn't support XMP).

So who did you buy this laptop from?
You said you INSTALLED NEW RAM on it. Your post above said you bought new RAM. But now you said the samsung was installed with the laptop.
Why did they install mismatched sets? Xiotic PC installing Hynix with the MSI (Kingston) Rams caused serious problems on mine, which were 100% resolved by buying Kingston Valueram and removing those crappy Hynix dimms.

For overclocking RAM, the basic RAM can't be overclocked anywhere (e.g. 2400 to 2666 will just black screen and you would need the unlocked Bios to access the RAM mulitpliers anyway. I tried 2666 mhz (multiplier=10), at 17-17-17-39 2T and it just reset itself back to defaults, after 60 seconds, the power light cycled and the system reset back to the old timings, but with 1T instead of 2T). But the MSI and the Kingston Valueram can run at nicer timings than the very loose stuff they ship with. Perhaps 2666 mhz would work if I found the right setting but 2400 mhz with very tight timings, tight tRFC and nice tREFI is much better.

So far no one seems to know if the MSI board can support RAM higher than 2666 mhz. But someone said 2800 mhz was tested by someone. I also remember a Bios update mentioned somewhere for the GT73VR that added support for higher RAM frequencies, but then those update notes were removed or something. Maybe check one of the older posts in this thread.

 

like so. may be a lot of trouble when I do overclock or do custom ram
so true. just because one ram is not the same thing to do and do not test just once. should I return this ram or
keep wearing it on my laptop ?
how do you think is the difference between these two ram is very influential? and whether this can also result Game Shuttering problem? because I experienced shuterring when fps is at number 75+. and I've tried setting low. med.high but i still experience shuterring when playing Ghost Recon Wildlands

 

You can install the Kingston sticks yourself. I gave you the links. All you have to do is buy them. You can contact and complain to the shop you bought the laptop from and tell them they used mis-matched sets that cause problems (even if they dont, learn how to lie), and that you will ship them the RAM Sticks back if they will refund you the price for them. Then mail the samsung sticks back in proper packaging for a refund, and install the Kingston sticks yourself. There is NO need to send the laptop back to do something that takes FIVE MINUTES to do. You would pay almost as much in shipping as the RAM costs.

I'll be direct however. And I know hmscott will be angry with me for saying this.
If you can download memtest86 (install on a USB drive, it has an installer so you don't need to ask "how do i install it"), set your Bios to boot from the USB UEFI flash disk before the SSD drive, and set your RAM to 15/15/15/35 1T (Command rate 1T), if the settings WORK after 45 seconds of black screen, and then do a full pass in Memtest86, if it passes without errors, then change it MANUALLY to 17/17/17/39 2T, and after 45 seconds, it works, then if you set it AGAIN to 15/15/15/35 1T, and it works again, then you can keep the samsung sticks. This means that your mainboard is fully compatible with these mismatched sets.

In MY case, I had problems with failed re-trains just setting it to 1T (No other timings changed) when the system was virtually new, and a Bios flash would always require multiple CMOS resets afterwards in order to work, which slowly got worse. So I'll just go on a limb and say that if you can do these timings multiple times successfully, back and forth, without a permanent black screen, and memtest 86 flashes, you should be ok keeping the existing RAM.

If you have a black screen that lasts more than 2 minutes, you can clear cmos by holding down the power button for 45 seconds, then releasing . You will have to wait about 2-3 minutes for the boot cycles to happen (you will have a Power LED cycle after 60 seconds, still with a black screen, then it should start boot looping after 1 min and 45 seconds).

 

so Latency Supported is completely unused at this time. much less for laptop motherboards. well i understand now.
Sorry, my English is bad
I bought it through my colleague GT73VR-425
samsung is installed when i buy it. with a capacity of 16gb 8x2. and i added a micron ram
Why did it happen ? whereas it has the same CL-17. from now on it seems to really have to buy ram with type and same brands
what about the auto overlock ram does it really generate the changes?