The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

I believe msi advertises facory overclock, not really sure what they promise on the 7820HK. On the 6820HK it's 4GHz.

Sandy bridge, clock per clock, will perform 20FPS worse in Battlefield 1 on a comparable Skylake platform.

 

how is Kaby Lake vs Sky Lake clock for clock?

 

Ah, what I was basing it off of was the 6820HK being known to handle 41x no problem and with the 7820HK coming out at +300MHz from the factory it would be safe to assume that 44x shouldn't be an issue?

AW site has advertised: 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7820HK (Quad-Core, 8MB Cache, Overclocking up to 4.4GHz ) <-- Notice it doesn't say dynamic haha...funny...we all know it'll be some goofy pre configured OC level 3 profiles... but regardless the point here is that even with the 6820HK, it' holds at 41x across all four cores just fine.

Intel Ark shows the +300MHz for Kaby over Skylake, http://ark.intel.com/compare/88969,97464

A lot of great points. Indeed.

ps. Thanks guys for the 2000th like. It was humbling to see...

 

I believe tests show them to be just about the same clock for clock.

 

Negligible, around 5% overall if you have them both at the same clock and have near identical board/ram setup.

 

GT73VR 7RF-286UK now ordered and will be with me tomorrow , shame i have man flu and cant see the screen (takes 10 mins just to type this with a dripping trap of a nose)

 

plug the power cord to both of your nose hole and it'll provide free electricity while providing a way to stop the mucus

 

I would take electric shock treatment any day rather than have this lol

 

Might need a no ground pin adapter too.

 

I saw your post, I didn't compare ICD with LM but ICD vs Stock paste on GT73 (no big difference means only 1 to 2 degree drop)

ICD dried out in 2 weeks because I saw the temp rising 3 to 4 degree (where when applied temp dropped 1 to 2 degree).

Note: I did some magic on both CPU / GPU HS.... ....they are not stock anymore.....

In your post, ICD in white color, how it can be, ICD is in gray color right...? the one I have is in gray color....

I already compared thermal kryo with ICD / LM temp results with other users on this very thread on GT73

Kryo temp better as compare to ICD (where ICD applied by re sellers)
one user re pasted with LM
on GPU same temp as kryo but on CPU LM drop the temps 7 to 9 degree as compare to kyro (both CPU / GPU OC)

following are current idle / workload temps (using laptop since last 6 to 7 hours) I bet here, no one can say having this much lower temps @24 ambient temp with stock paste,

 

do you meean to say that the stock paste is better than IC diamond? wha is the sock paste for the MSI laptops anyway and does it last longer?

 

Does anyone use a cooling pad or device to raise the laptop for better airflow?

If so, what do you use?

 

Using GT73 since last 3 months,

@ 24 room ambient

First one & half Month stock paste
cold boot 33 / 34 > idle 42/43

First re paste MX4
cold boot 37 / 38 > idle 44 / 45

ICD re paste
cold boot 33 / 34 > idle 40 / 41

Kryo re paste
cold boot 27 / 28 > idle 37 / 38 while OC both GPU / CPU never touch 80 while gaming / benchmark

now you can do the math....I haven't tested the LM personally and now @iunlock is doing his magic, so I will wait.....

 

I'm using cooling pad, 4 fans, 3 fans unplugged, only one fan running (bottom one) which I only use to keep the HD temps under 50 when needed.

 

I guess it's just me, already knowing this to be true in general - that the stock paste is good enough.

And, now that it's confirmed that the re-pasting improvement is at best 6c - why not just stay with the stock paste? Those small improvements provide no performance improvements whatsoever.

Undervolt, lift the rear of the laptop for airflow, and you are good to go on the out of the box stock paste - in my experience good for years of carefree gaming.

Lots of lost hours playing with the hardware that could have been spent doing something else productive, or many more hours of gaming time

 

so do you recommend I cancel the IC Diamond and stick with the stock paste for longevity?

 

100% agreed......

 

Well, yes.

At least get the vendor to profile the temperature through repeatable benchmarks before re-pasting - both to see if it's even necessary to re-paste, and to have a baseline measurement upon which to judge the improvement if you persist in going through with the re-paste even with "good" temperatures out of the box.

With the Skylake / Kabylake CPU's I'd recommend requesting they take a little time and find a good undervolt before taking temperature readings. There is a big temperature drop just from undervolting those generation CPU's.

IDK how many times I've seen someone re-paste and show little improvement, so they start on the path of constant re-pasting to get the hoped for improvement, only to never get it - eventually getting bored of it all - declaring victory - and finally getting on with enjoying their laptops.

It's true that sometimes you get a bad paste job, but truly it's rare with MSI and Asus - as long as you undervolt you should be rewarded with good temps for gaming without tearing your laptop apart.

 

I have stuck with the stock paste and I have no trouble with extensive gaming sessions, I stick an Altoids box under the back of the laptop, improving the typing angle and airflow. I also am careful about the location of the cords around the bottom. The only time I had a bit of an issue was in a hot hotel room so when the summer time comes around I may need to try under volting but for the time being I run at 4.1 +100/+150 for hours at a time with average CPU/GPU temps in the mid to upper 70's with a reasonable level of fan noise.

 

Helping along normal convection cooling by lifting the rear up an inch or so higher than the front, creating an air flow from front to back, makes a surprisingly big difference.

 

anyone who updated the DGC version, can you please confirm this behavior...

In DGC > Fan Speed > if switch to Cooler Boost, the Cooler Boost function instantly kick in and fan reaches 5000RPM instantly....?
If quickly change the option from Cooler Boost to Auto or Basic or Advanced, option change but Fan keep running @ 5000RPM...?

Wanted to be sure that it's just new DGC version or the EC firmware of 7RF model which I updated on 6RF....

 

Lowering temperatures improves component lifespan by reducing electromigration.

 

Tearing down the laptop for multiple re-pastings to get a 6c degree improvement is worth the effort?

Of course it isn't

Run with an undervolt, use Balanced Power plan instead of High Performance - allow the CPU to cool down between load peaks, use a cooling pad, and use G-sync/V-sync or a frame limiter to run at refresh rate instead of unlimited FPS, all those things will do much more than those re-pastes to help keep thermal load down.

 

Yea that's one of the first things I did when I got the machine via powercfg/h off - although it couldn't hurt to try re-enabling then disabling it again as i disabled it right out of the box and maybe the win 10 anniversary update created a conflict of some sort.

I leave the setting on turbo about 90% of the time - I think I only toggled to eco once just to see what the values would be under system monitor.
I'll still give the EC reset a try though.

Yea even though the fans seems plenty capable, i've always thought it couldn't hurt to elevate the back a bit.
I place a deck of cards under each of the rear rubber feet for a bit of breathing room.
Eventually I will go with a cooling pad but am deciding between the
Havit HV-F2056 and the Tree New Bee cooling pad - the fans on the havit look to align better with the openings on the underside of the machines' design so maybe that one will do.

 

I just tested and fans quickly shot up to 5k rpm
Then selecting to auto it takes about 15 seconds for them to gradually wind down back to normal. (1100-1800)
Same result by pressing the physical cooler boost button.
I am on the newest version of dragon center.
The one on MSI support page is 1.2.1611.0901 and my version is 1.2.1701.1101.
EC version is 17A1EMS1.107(08292016)
BIOS is E17A1IMS.107
Model is is 6RE

 

I would say better is Havit HV-F206 but cooling pad doesn't make any difference in lowering the laptop temps., I unplugged the top/ side fans, only using bottom fan to keep the HDD temps lowers...yes good to elevate the laptop and air flow...

 

so is the EC firmware 7A1EMS1.108 good or bad? because I asked HIDevolution to flash that for me in my order

 

thanks for confirming, then it's something MSI made changes in DGC, may be they made the cooler boost bit aggressive so fans kick in more quickly...

EC version is 17A1EMS1.108 (downloaded it from GT73VR 7RF) support page...work with 6RF model....

 

Almost all laptop pads only benefit temps by increasing open space for airflow under the laptop. The fans are almost always weak 5V fans that can barely push any air through the pad, let alone into the notebook. The best solution is a pad like the U3+ modded with 12V fans with high CFM and static pressure.

 

Like Shehary posted - It seems to be more aggressive - which I would prefer to keep things nice and cool when needed.

Definitely DGC changes, as when I selected cooler boost after starting the machine for the first time, it took a few seconds for the fans to kick up to 5k rpm and with the newer version it's immediate.
It probably adds a little more stress to the fan components to suddenly increase rpms so quickly but i'd rather replace the fans than have a cpu/gpu component fail as a result of overheating.

That sounds like a fun project!

 

That's a good point. I like the U3+ because it is a nice open mesh design that doesn't look too "gamer." I could even use it without the fans if I'm looking to just improve airflow. I do have some corsair 140mm SP series fans I could slap on there if I really want to go nuts...

Sold!

 

Thanks for answering.
I just checked and both VBIOS are 86.04.2b.00.14.
BIOS are also the same (E17A1IMS.107).
Serial numbers are very close by the way (...G9000003 for the good one, G9000062 for the crashing one).

Any other ideas ...?

 

speaking of vbios....question, how to update the vbios of this laptop, any MSI official guide or any unofficial tested method....?

 

Another strange thing I noticed, the one which is crashing on 3Dmark06 produces a noticeable "pop" sound and very slight rumbling noise when launching and watching a video with the sound muted.
Overall idle noise seems a little bit higher.
The first one on the other side doesn't make the popping noise, but has a screen which is slightlly less bright and yellowish on the right side.

Pretty surprised to see so much discrepancies between two identical computers.

Does someone know how easy it is to take off the screen ? (so I can try to swap both screens and end with a perfect unit)

 

to remove screen with panel

remove bottom cover (5 screws)

go to this post remove screws mark in red circle,

remove battery or hold your hand on it when flipping the laptop over otherwise battery will fall out of its cabin and will be hanging with the on board connector and you will get mini heart attack...

remove the panel shown in above post mark in red , just find a soft spot and pull with gentle force

when panel removed, you will see edp cable and screen hinges locks like this post

now last thing, the wireless card cables...I don't remember are there any connector under the removed panel or not...you have to look for yourself.

unscrew the screen panel from hinges, unplug the edp cable and screen is yours,

 

@kennyman I just remember that @Mobius 1 mentioned in a post that

according to Svet

GTX1080 bios is flash protected, so it's bios cannot be flashed...

so getting bios from @Maineiac12 of GTX1080 will be useless...?

@Mobius 1, your thoughts...?

 

My good friend @Phoenix The difference between LGA vs. BGA http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...scussion-thread.794965/page-368#post-10439651 Almost all BGA chips need more Voltage than LGA chips with increased clock speed!!

And dont expect...



WITH KABY LAKE!!

 

Yes please if you can? or PM me if nobody is interested...?

 

@Maineiac12 uploaded the file, check your PM for detail.....

 

i went to station drivers and got even newer drivers.

http://www.station-drivers.com/inde...id=255&catid=4&id=2221&lang=fr&limitstart=132

Realtek HD Audio Driver 6.0.1.8036 (4.54) R2.81 WHQL

these are working well with nahimic 2.1.13

On the subject of sound...i feel like my games volume is lower than desktop volume? Like watching youtube, movies sounds are loud as expected.

But in games, the volume is definitely lower - not as loud? i am always have to max out my game volume. is this realtek/nahimic driver issues or msi issue or windows 10?

 

how did you managed to have 2 different vbios for the gtx1070? was one 6re and other 7re?

 

Did you go through all the elements in the audio chain to adjust volumes? Windows Sound control panel, Realtek Control Panel, Nahimic, and application audio settings all play a part in the signal processing path.

Uncheck the box for "exclusive app control" for the device(s) as well, so a single app doesn't set the base for volume.

 

Not want to challenge, maybe later after a LM repaste ...but can you share how you got the scores?

with newer models and more owners, the challenge is to get to high 18K maybe break the 19K barrier

 

It can't be flashed unless you're wiling to remove the bios chip and flash it through a usb programmer.

This is only for modded bios, factory bios from other cards can be crossflashed since they are security-signed from nvidia/manufacturer.

 

With sizing option driver, its not required anymore with the new dragon center (built in - to the right of "system tuner, DPI settings"). but yeah i installed it anyways lol

most of us are new msi owners i think...only a few have come from GT80s or various msi models....why didn't you go for SLI model?

 

The heatsink on the sli model looks weak in comparison to the GT83 imo. If I were to pick up an SLi model, even though it would be a 1070, I would go for the 83VR. Though you do lose the panel quality by moving from 17.3" -> 18.4".

 

Actually the "quality" goes up from a TN vs IPS display perspective.

@ryzeki says the new TN panel head on compares nicely, but it is a TN panel after all, and the 18.4" IPS panel @ 100hz is a nice experience too.

I think I'd rather have a new 18.4" IPS panel, should new models start coming out, rather than a fast TN panel I'd rather have a desktop grade fast response IPS panel come out.

IDK if I could be happy with a TN panel in a top end laptop...especially with that "watermark" issue overlaying the screen with "lines".

AW says they are working with their screen manufacturer to get that watermark removed, hopefully sometime in Feb / Mar. I hope other vendors like MSI benefit from that fix too.

If that "lines" issue gets resolved, then I might be more amenable to getting the fast TN panel.

 

IDK, the single report I have seen from a GT73VR 1070 SLI owner has been good temps and good noise output with excellent performance.

Same for the single GT83VR 1070 SLI model.

It's a tough choice, 17.3" new tech screen - even if it's TN - with smaller size and easier transportability - it also needs 2 PSU's, but the frame is smaller for the laptop, with less weight - or get the tried and true GT83VR "100hz" OC'able 18.4" screen with the full mechanical RGB keyboard - for a lot more $.

 

i think only AW advertises this with their i7 7820hk - so those new msi owners can test to see if you can too...won't hurt to try....

quote from alienware.com

"Built with premium materials and up to 7th Gen Intel® Core™ i7 and i7k-Series processors, the Alienware 17 is the ultimate evolution in high-performance gaming technology. Utilizing magnesium alloy for rigidity, copper for better performance, anodized aluminum for extra protection and steel for tactile comfort, it features a high-quality design for high-performance gaming. And with support for up to NVIDIA® GTX 1080i or AMD Radeon RX 470 graphics, overclocked CPUs at 4.4GHz, and high-speed DDR4 system memory capable of up to 2667 MHz, you can experience gaming on a whole new level."

 

the whitebook gt83vr on cyberpower is a lot less though