The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

1) if you opted for the factory install, then yes. If you paid the extra for the clean install, then you will get the latest ISO / build from Microsoft at the time of building your machine although there still will be a few updates to do once you get it but not a lot of updates like with the factory MSI image

2) Just plug it in and start using it right away, that's what I've done on every laptop I've owned

3) No. Plus, MSI has a battery calibration tool. When you feel your battery is not performing up to par, run the tool, it will advice you to charge the battery full then will start a full discharge / conditioning process. At this time, you must not use your laptop and it will take time so just let it run overnight while you are sleeping

4) Run AIDA64 Extreme test for 3-5 mins while having HWiNFO on the side to see the max temps. When doing this, it is recommended to set your fans on max speed. It is the second macro key button on the right under the dedicated GPU switch that turns on the fans on full blast.

Feel free to ask me anything as I just got the laptop and went through the full experience.

See:
MSI GT73VR 7RF Titan Pro-425 Review By Phoenix

Be smart....be like Phoenix

 

Thanks bro! I'll do those things and be smart like you

 

Sorry if I dont explain better in English.
Low quality heatsink. I am talking in general about the heatsink in laptops vs. those used in desktops (cpu and for gpu). And I'm not talking specifically about MSI, so this is clarified

It is a known fact that not all heasink in the same model and same brand is just as good. Even with the same application, the same paste, there may be a difference in the heat dissipation. A GPU heasink have larger surface and must cover much more than only the GPU die. A greater chance that differences / tolerance deviation may occur. Hence a bigger chance of not completely perfect fit on the GPU die and you *can* get leakage with use of liquid metal. Hope you undestand what I meant

 

Clevo invented the flimsy heatsinks project!

 

Yes, you can. I went from 105 to 107 to see if it was better. I seemed to get cooler temps, but I noticed a low moaning noise from the CPU fan sometimes. I went back to 105, but still faintly heard that that noise at low rpm's. Then I went back to 107.

My laptop was delivered a day early to MSI repair. The last time it took 3 days before it was fully accepted. This time it was fully accepted the next day.

I just checked and it has been shipped already! I'm not sure if I should be happy or worried about that. Seems like a pretty fast turn around for replacing ram and fixing the bezel.

 

Yeah, it's the heatsink lottery But unfortunately the ****y can happen in any brands models

 

Yup, just look at Alienware in their most recent models and Clevo (as @Phoenix said).

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

There have been some guys with WLAN problems here. Have you found a solution for it?
I have a new issue since a few days: WLAN stays connected, but says "no internet connection". That happens sporadic without prior notice. I have to disconnect and connect WLAN to fix it.
The only thing I changed: I'm using the MS OneDrive app since some days...
It's the newest driver from the Killer Website (driver only, not the suite).
This notebook makes me mad!

 

Still, Nothing beat the Tripod mess from the Aw camp 40% of the lapbooks is messed up

 

Yeah, I feel like directing anyone who wants to buy an AW (from this gen) to our posts on the main 10-series discussion thread (23C temp difference )

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Yees, here it is http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...scussion-thread.794965/page-369#post-10457400

 

I think someone must have sat on the heatsink of that particular unit

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Btw. The first models isn't fixed as you probably know. A brand new thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...tles-to-0-78-ghz-xtu-says-thermal-but.801219/

 

I have the same problem. There is no sound in Rear speakers . Thank you very much.

 

Bloody hell, that is one seriously messed up company.

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Yeah, everything went down the toilet when Dell started with the "Echo" models early 2015 Nothing left from the glory days

 

Seems like the Tornado F5/16L-G-1080 is the best 15 inch laptop by far. MSI should see the demand for it and make it a production model.

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There's a couple things you can try.

• Rolling back to an older killer driver
• Disabling the power saving features of the wireless card through device manager
• Trying the driver only package (no killer management software)
• Replacing the card with an intel 8260 or 8265.

I tried the first 3 options and they made the problem less frequent but it still happened. I've ordered a new intel 8265 to try. Should be arriving tomorrow I hope.

 

Thanks! I think I'm going to go with crucial as well. The Kingston factory ram uses micron chips just like crucial does so if I match the latency and speed I'm pretty sure I will be fine.

 

The sku for the ram appears to be specific to MSI and is not something I can buy anywhere. Based on the specs it is most likely Kingston ValueRAM made specifically for MSI so my only options would be to buy from someone on eBay who upgraded or get it direct from MSI which I'm sure would cost more than I'd pay at amazon or Newegg.

 

That one?
https://www.amazon.de/INTEL-Dual-Ba...1SKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486651650&sr=8-1

Is it easy to replace?

 

What does it say in CPU-Z? Make / model / part number ? - like this:



If you look for the same model family from the maker you can often find a commercially available part in the size you want.

If you can post the numbers, I'll see if I can find it for you

CPU-Z System information software
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

 

@hmscott as always being one of the most helpful people on the forum

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Yes and yes. Once the bottom cover is removed all the replaceable parts are exposed. You'll see the wireless card in the top right. Carefully disconnect the antenna wires from the old card, remove the screw holding it down and lift the old card out. To install, just reverse those steps. Easy!

 

Following is the commercially available ram for this laptop

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-ValueRAM-2400Mhz-KVR24S17S8/dp/B01LW6HBSM

 

Here you go! I tried looking last night and the closest match I found was Kingston ValueRAM and a Crucial brand kit of the same specs.

 

Well, color me astonished. I was worried about the 1 day turn around with my laptop and asked tech support this morning about it. They just replied, "Based on report, memory was replaced and OS reinstalled, tested and passed test. Tnx." The last time I sent it in, it was a month before I got it back just to have the bezel fixed. They were supposed to fix the bezel again this time too, but I see no mention of that. Hopefully they did.

 

Hey, you guys beat me to it

Here's a guy in NZ looking to sell his original memory with the full MSI specific part number:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/computers/laptops/memory/auction-1257521508.htm

Maybe someone out there close to him needs some

 

This is the RAM in my laptop: Kingston MSI24D4S7D8MB-16 2400 MHz.(17-17-17-39) 64GB DDR4 RAM

 

This is my CPU-Z / SPD:

 

Yeah, you had it good getting 2 x 16GB in the primary slots, so you could expand to maximum memory easily.

For @Maineiac12 's situation, he would need to replace the 2 x 8GB with 2 x 16GB (or 4x 16GB) to get maximum density.

It's too bad those 2 SODIMM's under the keyboard are so hard to reach / replace.

 

I got it with 64GB from the start. I'll never want to ever remove the motherboard.

 

I'm just planning to add another 2x 8GB for a total of 32. I don't really think I'll ever need more than that for a long time.

 

Anybody here using cooling pads or vacuum coolers? I'm planning to buy both but not sure if it's good to use them at the same time. I'm planning to buy the Cooler Master SF-19 V2 at $119 https://store.coolermaster.com/notepal-sf19-v2 and the Opolar LC06 at $30. Should I buy just the cooling pad, just the vacuum cooler or both? Any recommendation as to what cooling pad and vacuum cooler I should buy? I really want the coolest ones out there (anything under $200 usd is good). Thanks!

 

Say this to @Phoenix

Most part of the Cooling pad is Junk. Buy an U3 and mod it with 3x 120mm 12v fans and use a separate 12v power adapter. Otherwise save your money

 

Thanks! Where can I buy a 12v power adapter? Are the 120mm fans the largest fans that can fit in the U3?

 

Some Nahemic Hotfix for those having cracking noise/issues.

 

I use a old 15.5v laptop power adapter. Work well. You can use similar or search on the web. 12-15v will work. Some suggestions on what power adapter in the forum as well. You can use bigger than 120mm, but it's wasted on the U3. Because you can only use two. Better with 3x 120mm who fit on the cooler.

 

How did you use your 15.5 laptop power adapter with your U3? They don't have usb ports, right? It's my first time doing this as it is the first laptop I've ever bought. Can you kindly post a link of an example of a 12v power adapter that can be used directly by a U3? Thank you so much!

 

You're putting your own fans on, so you'll have to do the wiring yourself. Get any old 12V 1.5A+ adapter and a standard 2.1x5.5 jack, then wire them to the 12V/GND pins on the fan connectors.

 

Yeah, not plug and play. But whatsoever cooler pad you buy, is almost useless with the default 5v fans. Regardless of size. The bigger 180-200mm 5v usb fans in some of these coolers is totally crap. They don't sit where you need it.

Btw. The forum site is still crippled if you try to edit your posts. Like a lottery

 

Is there a post here or a link you can direct me to showing how to do this? If there is something below a newbie/noob when it comes to this, I am that.

 

Spoiler: Fan connector pinout

Spoiler: Shopping list

Adapter
Fan splitter (any)
3x 12V 120mm Fans (not necessarily this one, look for fans with high static pressure and CFM)
Wire (again, just about any non-stranded wire will do, and you only need a little bit)
Zip ties (you see the pattern here)
Jack (try to get ones like this with screw-down connectors because that means 0 soldering)
USB step-up converter (optional, may not work with your laptop)
For the converter, USB 3.0 is rated to 900mA tops, so this is WELL out of spec at the full 12V, especially given in-rush current. With all three fans, we're talking almost 3x the rated amperage at 12V. 9V will likely work and provides almost as much cooling at much lower noise, but I still make no guarantees. It works on my P870DM3 at 12V, but only on 4 out of 5 of the USB ports, and I have to start with 9V first. Your mileage may vary, and worst case, you may end up frying something, so I take no responsibility if you choose to use the converter.
You will also need a wire stripper. Multimeter optional but recommended.

Spoiler: Instructions

1. Ziptie the fans to the U3. They will fit EXACTLY if you get 3, so make sure they're in the right spot. You only really need to do two opposite corners for each.
2. Ziptie the jack somewhere convenient.
3. Connect the fans to the splitter. Apply zipties around the three sets of two connectors so they don't come apart.
4. Most fans will have an abundance of cable, so you will probably want to ziptie them tidily. Make sure to leave enough slack for the male connector to touch the jack.
   
5. Cut two very short lengths of wire--about 2.5cm. If you buy the jacks I linked, they should have a +/- listed, and they should match the polarity of the adapter I linked. Double check with a multimeter if you want to be sure they're correct. I did. Strip the ends on both approximately 7mm. Now insert one into each terminal of the jack and screw them down until tight.
6. Insert the other ends of the wires into the appropriate holes on the fan connector, then ziptie it down. The wires should be short and stiff enough so they don't come out easily on their own.

Spoiler: Finished product

 

Thank you so much for this! Very detailed.

 

Some updated Killer software for those who use it:

http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/e2500-64bit

Don't think the LAN drivers were updated from previous latest only the utility and wifi.

 

Interestingly those are only for systems with the E2500 lan installed so that means kaby lake only. They won't install on the 6RF/6RE because the skylake models used the E2400.

 

Hi. I wonder if someone could tell me why i had black screen. I have gt73 7re. Yesterday everything was fine. This morning i switch it on and i see only black screan. I switch it of and on, and i have my shortcuts on the left corner, like resolution was changed and dark colours. In true colour it took several times to get the colours i wanted, because when i change profile, colours are back, but in 1sec its dark again. When i reset it or change brighteness its ok, but still doesnt want to stay all the time. Brighteness bar often keeps going back to 0. Did not instal anything new. Only uninstalled norton yesterday, but after restart it was fine

 

I have found MSI True Color to be very problematic. Portrait Displays (the developer of this app) even sent me a new 2.0 version but with that, when I move windows around, the text within that window like folder/file names all get a red hue until I stop moving the window, same thing happens with scrolling fast on webpages.

Uninstalling the app didn't help because everytime I restart the colors look pale white / overblown until I reload the Windows color calibration profile again so I just formatted and didn't install that buggy app

 

Just tested 8053 drivers with Nahimic 2.3.14 works fine.

 

A few pict from my CoolerMaster U3 MOD

Spoiler: MY U3 FAN MOD

Homemade fan filters from my wife's nylon stockings




Idle temp a bit under ambient temp with Windoze X power plan. Yeah, this is possible if everything is put up correct