The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

I didn't have HWiNFO in the background in order to not decrease my score. Ill run it now and show you the temps

 

how good is ebuyer? do they have good customer service/returns

 

steal anything you want bro including the signature and edit it to your specs. we are on the MSI Team now so having a universal signature looks better

 

@Shehary @hmscott

That's a 4.2 GHz OC with a -100mV core/ring voltage offset and a 150MHz GPU Core / 300 MHz GPU Memory OC

Fans on AUTO not max blast so expect the temps to be lower on max blast

Thermal paste on my CPU/GPU is IC Diamond using the X Cross method

 

Looking at those temps result all I can say is this:

 

well, I when i was still researching about this laptop, I saw a pretty good deal on xotic pc. I talked to an xotic pc technician asking him what the benefits of IC diamond thermal paste were. He said it was definitely better than the stock paste and told me i could see a temp decrease of anywhere from 2-3 degrees to 6+degrees depending on the age of the laptop and the quality of stock thermal paste applied. Also, IC diamond will last longer and be more effective than the stock thermal paste over time.
There was another paste called Cool Laboratory Liquid Ultra which was supposedly better than the IC diamond, but there was a risk of short circuiting the mobo. I knew these guys were pros and would do a great job, but I didn't want to take the risk. SO i went with the IC Diamond Paste.

 

That is t3|-| funn3|-|

 

hey bro
did you overclock using dragon center? Also, how did you OC the cpu to 4.2Ghz. I know the multiplier is upto 42 in dragon center, but i read reviews and saw vids on youtube where the laptop went max upto 4.1ghz and if you tried to OC to 4.2ghz, then the blue screen of death would appear and you would have to reboot it. I think it was for the 6rf, not 7rf. Not sure

 

In your experience how much of a differenc does keeping HWinfo off make? I was so close to 16000 in Firestrike I wonder if turning it off would make a difference?

 

I got the exact same score with HWiNFO on or off after I just tested

here are my settings:

 

with that temp and voltage you can prob aim higher, especially fan not on max. try to see if u can get a stable 4.4 or 4.5 with just under 1.25v

 

1) Set Dragon Center to 42X on all multipliers
2) Open Intel XTU
3) Set core / cache voltage offset to -0.1V (-100mV)
4) Processor Core ICC Max = 100A
5) Turbo Short Power Max =/ Turbo Boost Power Max = 200W

After you save, if it prompts you to reboot, some settings won't stick so you have to reset them again, then they would stick

no way, on a stress test, temps reach 89C. not running any higher and risking anything. I'm happy with these clocks.

Last time I tried 4.4 GHz it corrupted my entire RAID 0 Array, never trying anything above 4.2 GHz on this CPU

 

Thanks mate.
I noticed that your battery wear level is 0.5% which is very good. I checked and mine is 2.4%. I've been using it for just a week now, so that's not good. How long have you had your laptop and how do you maintain your battery so well?

 

There is a calibration tool in DGC, I ran mine although it took some time.

 

Cool Laboratory Liquid Ultra is LM and only for pros and enthusiast...ICD only make difference of 1 to 2 degree if applied properly....you can find my posts between 150 to 250 pages...real test results with snapshots comparison of MX-4 VS ICD vs Thermal Kryo VS Stock TIM.... also comparison with other users who have tried ICD...Thermal Kryo beat ICD and stock paste performance is almost equal to ICD and ICD may and will dried out....in my case it dried out and another user also reported it dried out after 3 to 4 weeks......I don't believe what re-sellers says...they don't do re-paste for free and they will never say that stock paste is better otherwise how they can sell the re-paste feature....

oh did I forget to mention...ICD does scratch die....

 

I've had it for like a month

the reason it's still like this although I've used my laptop on battery like 3 times is because MSI BIOS doesn't allow the battery to overcharge, once it reaches 96% it says plugged in (not charging in the taskbar power icon)

 

He probably wanted to make me pay some extra money. Hopefully, it doesn't dry out. Repasting is gonna be a pain in the ass.
I know ICD scratches the die

 

nothing as painful as repasting LCU. IC Diamond is super easy to get off and reapply.

Use this.....

The X Cross method is the best in my experience as once the heatsink is fitted, it provides the maximum coverage with the least air bubbles

 

Applying the paste is alright. But removing the heatsink and screwing it back is what I'm nervous about.

 

oh I haven't done it on this laptop

please make a video if you do it

 

What is the CPU temp during gaming?
I want to OC the CPU to at least 4.0 Ghz, however after seeing that even on stock settings teh CPU can get close to 80C during gaming concerns me.
I checked temps in this video:

 

j00 need to undervolt by a -100mV then it runs very cool

 

Oh yeah, forgot about that -_-
WIll do a -100C UC too, hope it drops at least 10C

 

If I'm forced to repaste then I'll make a vid. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

 

FYI 3DM suite have own monitoring app for temp

 

I will make the video as soon as I get my hands on LM...it's the only TIM I haven't tried....despite the facts that many users and re-sellers reported LM doesn't perform well on this laptop, I wana give it a shot...

 

BTW. Why all this for Hwinfo start up? Yooo need only the sensor minimize for start up. And I advise yooo to not run any software who eat of your processor clock cycles when yooo chasing for best numbers. All extra software in the background will have its share of the processor!!

 

send me your HWiNFO registry settings again mine has too much info

 

I will do when I'm on my machine

 

where are you now? in an igloo?

 

Out. Worse than in my igloo. Winter storm Not very cold, but could wind from north. If you have been here.., Yooo would hate it!! I'm sure you would!!

 

I studied 1 year in Ukraine so I know how it feels, my nose freezes and when I open my mouth, snow flakes pop out of it

 

I have never experienced snow in my entire life. Hopefully someday

 

So i think you guys are familiar with my problem. My gpu switches to PCIEx16 v2.0 (to save power I assume) and refuses to revert to PCIe x16 v3.0. even under constant load. I ran the rendering test on the GPU-Z which puts load on the GPU to make it go to v3.0, but even then my GTX1080 stubbornly refused. I've uploaded a screenshot of HWINFO64 showing various GPU stats. You can see the blue highlighted part - PCIe Link Speed which is 5.0GT/s (gigatransfers per second-the data transfer rate). For PCIe x16 v3.0, the PCIe link speed is 8.0GT/s. So even underload the GPU is not running in x16 v3.0.
In the Nvidia ctrl panel I changed the global power management settings to Max Performance. No change. Does anyone know how to force the GPU to remain in v3.0.? Phoenix? Shehary?
btw I dunno how to tag people. lol. someone tell me

 

@Phoenix Bro, I see that when you plug in your laptop it'll stop charging at 96% and say it's plugged in but not charging. However, when I plug in my laptop it goes all the way to 100% and just stays there until I take the charger off. Is there something wrong with this? Will this wear my battery faster? Should I use Battery Calibration or is there something in the settings that I can change for this? Thanks man!

 

it happened to me once, just unplug your charger and let it drain to 80%, then try charging it again and see if it stops @ 94-96%

There is no setting for this as far as I can tell

 

@Phoenix do you have a solution to my issue?
Thanks

 

Yes I will fix your problem in 18 hours as I'm in my bed now on a phone

Install TeamViewer on your computer and Skype on your phone and wait for the Phoenix tomorrow

Be sure to tag me again if I forget

 

Does that really work? When I tried opening XTU before it wouldn't let me because dragon center was running.

 

I placed the download link in a former PM. You have closed access for ME!! WHY BRO? Oh' well.

BTW. If any of you have lived in an igloo like me for over 50 years (and for the last years with not so good lungs).... I hate it!!! A short stay in snowy areas as here near the Nort pole for studies or vacation, are not the same, LOL

 

Info for all of those of you who complain that ICD scratching die and that you should avoid this thermal paste. Die withstand more than you think View from 4.10
BTW. ICD is a very good thermal paste!! My second after Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra.

 

Hey guys, I just got a black screen after lowering undervolt from -60 to -70. The power is still on as there is still light in the power button but there's no more light (the 3 lights) in the bottom panel of the laptop... anybody know what to do?

I longed press the power button and it turned off. Then I turned it on but it's still black screen and there's still no light at the bottom panel of the laptop...

Now it won't turn on!! What should I do guys?

 

How did you undervolt....using XTU...?

Did you changed any default OC value in BIOS....?

 

Using xtu. It was stable at 60. Then I wanted to try it to 70 then that happened. I always see "preparing automatic repair" and "dianosing your pc". It then let me pick if I continue to windows, pick another OS which will lead me to Macrium, reset the pc which will reinstall windows 10 or just shut down. What should I do?

It's saying this. Stop Code: INACESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE

 

you may lost the system partition.

 

What can I do to repair this? Reset the pc?

 

If you not in hurry...wait for @Phoenix as he knows your laptop inside out...he can give you better and time saving suggestion...instead starting from scratch...

 

Go into the BIOS and make sure the boot device is still set correctly to point to your boot drive.

If you reset the BIOS, the default will likely not be your real boot device.

 

Okay man. Thanks.

It's not saying to reset the BIOS though, it just says to reset the pc and reinstall windows. also there's an advance option that would let me go to restore point.
how to check if the boot device is still set correctly to point to my boot drive?

 

The important thing to remember is to not panic.

Doing nothing at this point is better than chasing phantoms... things you heard or think apply, but aren't sure enough to commit - but after a while you will try them and possibly make things worse.

It's incredibly rare for a crash to completely trash a boot drive. It may be unbootable right now, but downloading a Windows 10 install image to burn onto a USB thumb drive - you can boot on it and use the "Repair Disk function to repair the boot function.

I'm not saying that's the problem, I am saying that's the worst that usually happens.

The Boot device setting in the BIOS can get unset without resetting the PC, it can just happen, it's much more likely than the boot drive getting damaged, so it should be checked first - it's so quick to check it's worth checking first.

The GT73VR 6RE English manual page 3-26 shows the Boot menu, but only describes the setting of the Boot Mode to UEFI - but if you look at that boot page you will see the boot order as set there - it should be HardDrive first - then there is another boot page to set the HardDrive order - set the device you installed Windows on as that 1st device.
https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GT73VR-6RE-Titan.html#down-manual

Check what is set in your BIOS right now - don't make any changes - and snap a photo of the boot and boot device pages and post it here so we can check. Is it set to the Harddrive and correct boot device?