***The Official MSI GT80 Titan Owner's Lounge***

Bro I canhelp with that since we got the exact same specs!

 

High to ultra. Depends on optimizations, what other crap u have installed, etc.


U should not have to pay extra for them to config drivers. That service should be included when u get ur hdd's replaced. Always get a backup USB or disk if u didn't.

Make sure they send u a bench and hwinfo screenshot before they ship as I had to make xotic PC redo my customizations on a new laptop after pasting it improperly or with old paste or possibly warping CPU. Also u should ask for picture of black screen to make sure there is no bleed.

If u want an editable copy of my footer and have photoshop (yes I made my own custom footer with like ten layers), I'd be happy to provide it!

 

Yea I just got done taking my SAT subject tests and I took the act 2 days ago (my birthday was 3 days ago) so I know how u feel.

This laptop is reliable! I've had an unreliable laptop before *cough*razer*cough* The gt80 is one tough cookie. Although I would not recommend it, mine got hit by a 130 lb robot (not my fault) at 30 mph and still functions within normal parameters.

The laptop does sometimes experience a few quirks but that is to be expected Ina system like this.

 

I will get it in 2 days from now.
But, I asked Gentech to install Windows 7 for me :/
That was 2 months ago, my cousin is only able to bring me the laptop this week.

I ordered the laptop back when we were on page 5XX something and it shipped about 2 months ago, but I am only able to get my hands on it this week.
So other then their support I cant really use them (and I am studying in a different continent right now, that's why it took time to get the laptop)
And Ken from Gentech hasn't replied to me yet anyways.

I remember you had issues back then. I hope you resolved them and I hope I don't encouter them.
I had them test the machine a few times and made sure everything was Ok, but I don't recall recieving/asking for benchmarks but Ken said they performed benches and it was fine.

As you have the same specs, I would like to know how are your thermals? do you have any external cooling solutions? are you running on a constant OC or any OC at all?

I have a test tomorrow and on sunday and I know absolutely apeshit * NADA* lol

Just wanna get my hands on that and rock some Witcher 3 & Fallout 4.
(Still have to go through both Metro games, Dishonored and Divinity)

 

Msi afterburner + dragon center should allow easy overclocking

 

This laptop was designed for win 10 so I would recommend 10...

Have you played crysis series? Shadow of mordor is also good. Metro is great but is somewhat poorly optimized. Use mortal combat 10 over injustice cause injustce looks as bad as it runs.
Gta5 runs great at ultra with built in dsr at 1.25x and nvidia control panel transparent antialiasing

Also get some games u can run maxed on battery like ryse and metal gear rising Revengeance

I would recommend disabling multigpu on battery because there's not enough voltage for both gpu's and most things run better on battery on one gpu because it won't power throttle.

 

Yea me to I spent first two weeks after school was out in a back room learning two physics courses and even spent my birthday taking practice tests.

Good luck with ur tests!

 

Take look at my footer and click on the 3D mark -- I have the highest -002 benchmark

 

I would be surprised if any of that worked... the refresh is a physical hardware thing defined by the display installed. The other updates are ok to do, but don't hold out any hopes for more hz.

 

I recall it was begging b4, so now you've upped your game, nice

 

Just traded the crew for alien isolation not that I like horror games


Got my vive! Gonna prob set it up tomorrow

 

hhaha @mason2smart u post so much you're so hyped about this laptop looks like u lovin it

 

Above my pay grade

Glass half full aren't you HM?

 

That perspective helps at any pay grade

I have seen worse OC'ing panels, and have had them myself. It's not something you can fix or improve easily, so finding a pleasant way of living with it - gaining perspective - helps with closure on it.

For some people it drives them bonkers and they gotta get rid of it and find a better panel. Either replacing it, or selling / returning the laptop for another one.

Which is a lot of work, inconvenience for a lot of people, and in the end - there's not much perceptible gain.

I have spent literally months interacting with people on forums that can't live with the display provided in a laptop, complaining endlessly about the quality, the lines, the spots, etc. Going through as many as 5 panels, or laptops.

Never happy with what they have... it's sad.

So I prefer the life of living joyfully with what I have, glass or no glass, it's a happy life

 

Congrats on getting the Vive

Got it running yet?...

 

Here's my REALLY OLD CHECKLIST

Gt80 checklist

Are SSD ports pcie?
Samsung 850 evos of not pcie
If get msi drives which does it have in it?

Ask them to connect haptic back up in newer models!

clu thermal paste

Check disk reader/writer

Make sure that this is not in unit:
...US resellers still are shipping units with the 1st generation N1525 with Bluetooth 4.0????
Checklist:
I would recommend doing the following:
1. Go through all the "Windows Setup" prompts for getting your account setup.
2. Run Windows Update to make sure MS doesn't have anything you need.
3. Check NVidia to make sure your drivers are current and that SLI is in fact enabled.
4. Download and install CPUID or Open Hardware Monitor to track clock speed and temps of CPU and GPU's.
5. Download and install 3DMark and run the Firestrike test. Upon completion, review the score and make sure that the highest temps on the CPU and GPU aren't beyond expectations.
6. Install a drive speed utility and make sure that the SSD raid is performing at the speeds that one would expect.
7. Put a DVD/BluRay in the drive and make sure it plays.
8. Make sure the numpad works, and that the different GPU modes from the button and the fan over ride button produce the desired results.
9. Run a benchmark and check the performance. Run the monitoring utilities and make sure that thermals are within expected tolerances.

For temps, scores or any other information that is a result of your tests, feel free to post them here and the community can weigh in if something is out of wack.





↑
Sorry to jump in here, but what software do you use to run your burn-in? I would like to do the same to my GT80 when I get it.Thanks
Ben_, start with the benchmark programs, make sure you make it through them fully without flaky video, or thermal throttling - watch / log temps with hwinfo64.

Benchmarks like the futuremark.com series, Unigine Heaven / Valley, furmark - many don't like this, but I have used it for a long time so I am used to interpreting / comparing results.

For burn-in, I would start with 15 minutes of furmark + prime95 - simultaneous running. I wouldn't do this with a thin laptop, only the GT80, GT72, etc.

For longer term, I use either BIONC CPU/GPU tasks - easiest to set up and run with an account through BAM (BOINC account manager), it lets me install / configure in a few minutes with all my subscribed projects in play.

Stanford's Fah takes a few minutes longer to set up the Secure Key, and enable the CPU / GPU's - takes a couple of restarts, but this one is the one I fire up weekly to watch for temperature changes.

Note that over time you might get different job mixes for both Fah and BIONC. Always note the task running when recording temps.

As a reference, I am running Fah, at 78F ambient, CPU at 100% 83-86c (core variance), GPU's at 100% 57c and 65c, Toshiba M.2's 52c, and Samsung 840 38c.
Last edited: Today at 3:46 AM
↑
Also I'm not sure my parents would let me add ssd myself - don't I have to reload the is when I do that?
mason2smart, you can do it

It's easy. Get a 32GB USB 3.0 flash drive, use MSI BurnRecovery to create a recovery boot drive.

Take out the 2 M.2 SSD's, one screw each (don't lose the screw, or drop it in the computer), put them aside, and put in your M.2 drives - the empty slots have screws already in them - take them out before plugging in the new M.2 drives.

Power up into the BIOS, go to the Advanced Tab, and create the RAID0 - add all the M.2 drives you installed, create the volume - press the button - it's not hard.

Then, plug in the 32GB USB 3.0 boot recovery flash drive and boot on it, restore the recovery OS on to the the RAID0, the rest is easy

Sleep: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...n-owners-lounge.769092/page-347#post-10103983

Overclock beyond 4ghz... http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...yone-stable-at-oc-lvl-3.786682/#post-10177233


Backups: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-official-msi-gt80-titan-owners-lounge.769092/page-438

 

@hmscott Hey, I just have a quick question. I was about to send in my laptop for the RMA, but I wasn't sure whether I should restore factory settings (Which would downgrade me to Windows 8.1 in addition to removing all of my files and restoring factory defaults) or remove everything (which is a clean Windows 10 install.) Which one do you think I should do before sending in the laptop? I have all of my data backed up, I just need to pick one of the above options and send it in.

 

Doesn't matter, don't waste your time as they have the factory restore disks and will probably fix the laptop and restore it to factory state. Just remove your personal files.

 

-I had them past IC Diamond if I recall correctly.
-How do I check (PCIe) SSD Ports?
-I switched the disk reader/writer with another (SATA?) SSD.
-What temps should I expect while running Firestrike on stock?
-What GPU modes should be present?
-You said to update to the latest nvidia drivers. Were all the old issues with GPU drivers resolved and I should just get the latest driver available?

Thanks for all the insight!
You've been really helpful so far.
I will surely post the scores and pictures and everything ASAP.

By the way, Ken and Kevin from GentechPC did not respond to me yet..

 

While @Phoenix 's perspective is certainly valid, and you can send in your laptop as is, I would suggest otherwise...

The first thing support usually wants you to do for tough to debug problems is to do a restore to factory out of the box settings, and see if the problem still exists.

If the problem doesn't occur on factory defaults, then "it's fixed", if it does still exist, then they RMA it.

So generally, I already have the laptop reset to factory settings as part of the debugging process.

Make sure you have created an MSI BurnRecovery flash drive, 32GB, before shipping out your laptop to RMA, you might get back a Windows 10 image and not be able to restore Windows 8.1... this has happened to people, reported several times.

If you have imaged your boot drive to an image file (Macrium Reflect Free, or other) you can restore later, that is the most convenient.

You can then boot on the flash recovery drive and restore to out of the box OS - recovery partition install.

I also pull out any hardware I have upgraded, like additional memory, disks, SSD's, etc - also check all your ports to make sure you haven't left in an SD card or a keyboard dongle in a USB port

Also, I wouldn't bother shipping the power brick, they don't need it unless it's a power problem that needs to be debugged in RMA.

Basically, they support the out of the box software/hardware configuration, anything else might get lost or blown away, so you need to prepare for that, before it happens

You might ask them to restore a Windows 10 image to the machine - they likely use that now for debugging, and can leave it on the laptop when they ship it back to you.

Then you can create a recovery boot flash drive for the vendor Windows 10 install too, and have both.

Good luck!

 

BTW - with Doom - be aware that currently the Doom game engine does not support SLI, although ID state that it will "shortly". At the moment using SLI either results in no performance gain, or in some cases negative scaling.

However with 1x980M I'm still running ultra everything 1080p at 60fps most of the time. Some areas do dip below, but not very often.

 

This example might be the best performance, but the second example is easier to implement, so you might want to try it first:

Spoiler: Example1

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/937015/sli/doom-2016-sli-eta-/post/4883963/#4883963

"SLI already works if you import Doom profile from 365.10 into 365.19 (SLI bits are 0x00000001). However it will only scale with 2-way SLI in PCIe 3.0 x16/x16 mode and with shadows reduced to Ultra.

http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5275191&postcount=148 "

" 05-17-2016, 23:12 | posts: 608 | Location: Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoson
Anyone got working bits for DOOM?
Actually the game scales very well with 2-way SLI already, if you import the SLI profile from the 365.10 driver into the latest game ready 365.19 driver.
However Doom is very bandwidth limited and needs full PCIe 3.0 x16/x16 mode to scale well, and it is also necessary to turn down shadows quality from "Nightmare" to "Ultra":
http://www.forum-3dcenter.org/vbulle...postcount=2239

I can now confirm Blaire's results on my own 2-way 980 Ti system at native 4K (Asus PG27AQ monitor)
Since you have a 5930K CPU, you should also be getting good results, provided both your cards are in PCIe 3.0 x16 slots."

Original post by Blaire, in German:
https://www.forum-3dcenter.org/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=11034642&postcount=2239

There have been widely varying reports, but it's worth testing to force AFR2, here is an example:

Spoiler: Example2

If AFR2 doesn't work, you can try the first example, or you can enable Single-GPU until a driver update from Nvidia and a game update from id releases to fully support SLI

 

What do you know, on 365.19 it looks like forcing AFR2 actually works Everything Ultra, no flickering that I can see. Rock solid 60fps, and both GPUs only loaded to 60-70%.

I'd tried AFR2 on earlier drivers, and it was not working. This seems like a nice workaround until ID hopefully update their game engine accordingly.

 

Guys, I got the laptop a few hours ago and finished bulding a new dest and stuff for it!
I'm running Windows 7 right now, (Hopefully I wont be forced the upgrade to Win10 any time soon!)

What nvidia drivers should I use and other stuff?
EDIT:
Aswell as how to turn off sleep and hibernation and any other necessary stuff!

Thanks!

 

Congrats Make sure you disable automatic updates from windows so that it won't upgrade to W10.

To turn off hibernation, try this:

1. Click Start, and then type cmd in the Start Search box.
2. In the search results list, right-click Command Prompt, and then click Run as Administrator.
3. When you are prompted by User Account Control, click Continue.
4. At the command prompt, type powercfg.exe /hibernate off, and then press Enter.
5. Type exit, and then press Enter to close the Command Prompt window.

If you are using the latest BIOS/EC, you can use the latest nvidia drivers for your machine and it should work fine.

 

I have a few Issues with the laptop.
The 1st one is that I'm " Plugged in, but not charging" (Luckily I have 94% for now )
The 2nd is not a biggie, and my numpad isn't working.
& for some reason CPU-Z doesn't recognize my 6820HK as a 6820HK :O

I've done CrystalDiskMark for SSDs (1TB Samsung 850 EVO & RAID0 512MB x2 Samsung 950 Pro)
Look at pictures bellow:
CPU-Z & HWM & RAID 950 pro:
http://imgur.com/a/bQP4R
850 evo:
http://imgur.com/fIbHCkc

 

Firestrike score on stock with full fans: 13,314.
How is that result?

 

Regarding the issues you mention, the first one is normal. The laptop does not charge after getting to a certain threshold. If you charge it up to 100%, then it will not charge again until it drops below 90% as far as I remember, to try and make the wear on the battery lower.

The second one, make sure you reinstall the latest drivers on the webpage for your synaptics pointing device, then right click the icon and make sure tap to click is enabled.

Your scores look good they are inline with a stock system. Very nice! Your temps look fine, how were your CPU temps?

 

I'm downloading and installing synaptics drivers from MSI right now.
Can anyone link me to latest nvidia drivers I should use? I didn't touch/update the BIOS at all as of now.
How come yesterday I got to charge fine and today when I booted, it's not charging again.. seems a little annoying if I'll need to drain the battery for a while.

Other then that, I think I've managed to fix a bluescreen issue I had with the help of Ken from Gentech.
RAM weren't secured in good. So I took 2 of them out for now to see if any issues arise.

 

For latest Nvidia driver, use the one provided by Nvidia.com below.
[ Download page]

 

IGNORE EVERYTHING SAID.
I AM APPARENTLY SOMEHOW ALREADY RUNNING 368.39 :O

I managed to get it to work on Windows 10 with no hassle actually.
There are alot of tutorials on youtube, it's pretty straight forward

Although I have issues getting it to work on the Win 7 on the GT80S.
I managed to install all the required drivers and it connects and works for a minute and then gets out of sync and requires me to disconnect and reconnect the adapter every minute.

 

Thanks for the help so far.

Could you guide me on OCing the GPU and monitor for a higher refresh rate?
I don't want anything crazy that will endanger the laptop. I just want a minor BUFF that will allow me to run games better without that much higher temps and risks.
Also I went back a bit and saw people talking about updating the bios/vbios. Is it really beneficial? if so, and there's no risk in doing it I would be glad if you could help me with that aswell!

I will create a backup image as soon as I finish updating everything and configuring the system with the guide you provided me.

 

Monitor overclock is in nvidia control panel, custom resolution-- dsr must be off


Oc using afturburner, +135 core, +200 mem

 

1. Hi there all.. is there any webbie that sells gt80 titan with a single graphic card? Ive tried google it up but cant seem to get it... and i dont mind second hand or refurbished items..

2. Which cpu is the best?

P.s : im only playing mmorpg on it.. buying it just because of the mech keyboard and my mmo only support 1 graphic card..

 

Tried that was fine for a while..
I think it's unstable.. Fallout 4 crashed for me at the same point in the begging of the game and I recieved an error from the nvidia utility that said that something failed but it restored the GPUs to working condition.
Continued to crash at the same location until I removed the OC.

Temps were still very low (considering) at about 60-65c tops
As of now, I'm running fine with stock but I have screen tearing in F4 from disabling the ingame VSYNC mechanic to reduce the annoying input lag..
Started installing all mods all over and right now I have it on stable 60fps with all the mods I installed so far.

Metro 2033 Redux ( is scary) ran absolutely smooth! all settings topped if I recall with 100fps+ most of the time I think.

Keep you posted!

 

Hi All,

I am using the GT80 for a year now. I use the laptop always plugged in and game with turbo fan on. Recently I noticed Battery wear level increased to 10% from 4% (readings taken 2 months back) which got me really worried. I don't think it is normal and I am trying to figure out what precaution I should take not to burn the battery so fast. As I am not sure this battery is replaceable like easy fix down the line. Is this due to excessive use of turbo fan while doing gaming? But then why it should drain battery power as its getting the power from AC Adapter. Any kind of suggestion is really appreciated.

HWMonitor screenshot -

 

I just tried to configure hotkeys to numpad keys and I was unsuccessful.

Do the touchpad's "numpad" keys not register as real numpad keys? is there a way to bind hotkeys to them?
I also noticed my GPU2 is running hotter then GPU1 on idle/games.. is that normal?
(from fallout 4: GPU1 = 65c & GPU2 = 70c)

 

The wear might not be realistic. I'd say not to pay too much attention to it, because it might not be real. I noticed sometimes my wear level was lower than expected, then sometimes higher. You might need to run your battery through calibration to figure out your real wear. Battery calibration might add a small wear though. Just run your battery down to 70% or so then recharge normally until 100.

Mine is a year and half old, and I have 0% registered (I have more current capacity than design capacity) but I have seen it at 4% too.

The touchpad is not a numpad as you just found out. It is a "numpad" in the sense that it types numbers when pressed, but they are not keys part of the keyboard nor the num key is registered as a key from the keyboard. You could say it's an added function that has the same end (typing numbers) but they are not keys part of the keyboard. Maybe this could be changed via software but that remains to be seen.

GPU2 always runs hotter than GPU1 due to the heatpitpe arrangement and the GPU placement. It is normal to see around 8-10 C degrees of difference in general.

 

There has to be a way to actually map these "keys"!
It's so usefull compared to a "virtual" numpad..

sucks if it can't be done :/

 

My long gaming session stable settings on my GT80 SLI-263 980m SLI was +125 +350

CPU with XTU was 40x on all 4 cores, and 36x on memory, no undervolt.

Casual use, some gaming, I could run +130 +385, and 40x x 4, 36x with -80mV undervolt on Cores/Cache.

Benchmarking would take higher settings, but it was susceptible to crashing, needed to run high fans on and cool down between runs. +135 +400, 41x x 4 cores, 35x, +20mV.

It's going to be variable by CPU/GPU samples, so start with the first set of settings, as they are stable for everything I tried. It's a good place to start.

OC the display from 60hz to 100hz, and use RTSS (came with AB) to limit FPS to 101. Most games that run SLI ok will run faster than 100 fps, so this will sync the screen refresh and game fps, while making things run cooler - no wasted fps processing.

For games that run slower than 100 fps average, set custom refresh for them and change to it - use RTSS presets or do it manually - like for example if 80 fps avg is best a game can do - like Batman Arkham Knight, set the refresh to 80hz and RTSS FPS limit to 81 (refresh + 1).

Some/many games will see the modified refresh rate and vsync to it - that is sometimes best - you can keep RTSS running in parallel or disable for that game.

Have fun

 

Greetings every one

i am looking to buy the

GT80S 6QE TITAN SLI

here is all the details from the store website :

Here

It will actualy cost me around 3999 USD.

I know i can find it cheaper online , but shipping to Saudi Araiba is kinda expensive , and i want to buy it locally so i can return to the retailer in case i dont receive any of the included stuff like the key caps and balm rest.

Would you advice me not to buy this model ? is there any notes i should take in consideration ? And i would be extremly greatfull if any of the members lives in Saudi Araiba and knows where i can get it cheaper.

What should i do once i buy it beside upgrading all the drivers ? should i upgrade the BIOS or just leave it as is ?

And there is another important qustion , i want to mount my 1TB 840 EVO from my old GT70S on the new GT80S , would that void my warranty ?

Thank you so much , if you have any advice for me please share it and i would be really great full !

Cheers !

 

I ran a couple of Firestrike benchmarks while OCed... the first ones I ran on +100 clock and +50 mem (which was fine while I tested it on the Witcher 3 ultimate) and nvidia driver(?) crashed after a few seconds..
Tried again, this time started with a much lower OC of +30 clock and +20 mem.. and got it up to +80 clock +40 mem without crashing.. and crashed near the end when I tried +100 clock +50 mem.
But why does it seem like I can't sustain a basic OC everyone is saying is absolutely fine..?
And my scores haven't improved much at all.. from stock 13,314 to "OC" 13,547... which seems like nothing really..

Can anyone help manage to get my score up while keeping it stable, it seems like I'm not doing something right :O

 

You have a different CPU/GPU than I had, so my settings won't map to your CPU/GPU exactly.

GT80 SLI-263 5950HQ 980m SLI, your's is a GT80S SLI-002 6920HK 980 SLI.

Are you only OC'ing the GPU, or have you OC'd the CPU too? Only tune one at a time. Put the CPU back to stock / defaults, and focus on tuning the GPU.

You would do better to get help in the GT80S 980 SLI forum from someone that has your model, they will be familiar with the settings you can try:

***The Official MSI GT80S Titan (w/desktop 980 GPU's) Owner's Lounge***
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...itan-w-desktop-980-gpus-owners-lounge.785384/

Read the posts there, and when you have reviewed them all, if you didn't find the tuning info you need, post asking for help from someone with your model.

Have fun

 

GPU overclocking is not guaranteed to work the same for everyone. Myself included. I cant go at 100 clocks stable so I end up overvolting +12.5mv. Other folk here are stable at full +135 clocks.

You are only ever guaranteed to work at stock at the very least

 

Thanks ryzeki. I am hoping that is not realistic because I don't have any other option to use the laptop more safe way so battery life last long.

 

I have the 980m's and I haven't OC'ed the CPU yet.

When I OC the tempertures don't go up (that much if at all) it just crashes mid game/bench some times.
and for some reason, on modded Fallout 4; GPU1 maxed at 54*C and GPU 2 maxed at 73*C.
You guys say there should be a gap, but this seem overkill.

 

If you have a 980m, you have a problem with one of the GPU's, as you shouldn't have display driver crashes at those low temperatures, and your attempts at OC are failing at way to low +NN's.

If you just got this then you can swap it for another one, within the return period of the laptop seller.

I would contact them and describe the problem with unstable display driver while gaming - don't mention OC.

See if you can reproduce the display driver failure at stock settings, use Furmark or some other intense GPU benchmark / burn in tool and get a screen capture or photo image when it fails to send them.

You shouldn't keep this as is, either return it for another one, or get it RMA'd to replace the borderline GPU.

GPU's like this can get worse over time, they don't get better. I had one GPU go out in an AMD Crossover pair in a laptop. It started out with this same kind of borderline display driver failure while intense gaming, and slowly got worse until it was happening at the desktop, Asus replaced it on RMA - it took 2 weeks turnaround.

Please come back and let us know how it works out

 

Nope, didn't have any crashes on stock in Firestrike. Although I only added minor OC so I'm not really sure what the issue was (it didn't even run hotter then 60~65c I think).
Here's what happens:
1) Apply "OC".
2) Launch game/Firestrike benchmark.
3) Play for a few minutes, depending on "OC".
4) Randomly (or at the same point, like what happened to me in the begging of Fallout) receive a grey screen and crash to desktop.
5) Receive a notice from nvidia that "blablabla crashed and blablabla managed to recover"
6) Lower clock or get the same results over and over.

What about the temps?
Should I really be concerned?
I'm really frustrated I'll have to deal with this again.. I always had problems with GPUs on laptops.. I thought this would be different :/

 

The GPU might be normal, but it could use most likely a repaste. I see from your gap that the second GPU hit 100% at some point, it makes me believe it was being used the most. But that is still a terribly low temp. Throttling of the GPU does not begin until 85 on stock settings (can be modified by custom vbios).

I'd say if you are not willing to learn about the intricates of your computer, you should give up on overclocking. If stock speed is stable, keep it at stock. The Gray screen might be crashing on overclocking, as I used to get those with Defense Grid 2. Not every game taxes the GPU the same, and some light game like defense grid, showed the instability of small overclocking. Including sometimes from the CPU.

If you really want to overclock, you are better off using custom vbios which are way more stable. As I mentioned, I myself can't overclock without overvolting. Other users are far more successful than me in that regard. Overclocking low amounts like 50mhz etc yields negligible gains and you shouldn't bother.

Firestrike is very resilient to crashing. I have run successfully that benchmark at very high OCs but I can't do the same with 3dmark 11 or games. Don't use that to gauge stability.

 

Your GPU temps are very low, nowhere near throttling or even causing much fan speed required to cool it.

You don't need to repaste, as the temps are too low, your temps aren't even getting into the 70c's.

Your GPU shouldn't need more voltage to OC in the normal +135 +375 range, stock voltage is enough for 99% of the stable GPU operation I have seen reported here.

@ryzeki 's experience isn't typical, but sounds closer to what you are seeing, and I would have recommended to Ryzeki to also return/swap if he wasn't able to get good GPU OC on stock vbios.

I don't actually recommend flashing a custom vbios to apply more voltage or OC further than available on the stock vBIOS.

You can get more OC performance on a custom vbios, but it's not really going to make enough of a difference in game FPS to matter.

And, the added voltage and clocks on the GPU will heat it up into the throttling zone, and you will need to run your fans on high all the time when under load.

If you are seeing display driver crashing at such low OC settings, for now, run on stock GPU and stock CPU, and find a benchmark or burn-in utility that will cause the display driver to crash, just like you see when OC'd.

I know you are saying you don't see display driver crash when not OC'd, I am saying try to find something to generate a display driver crash at stock speeds, there are lots of apps that will push the GPU high enough to do so.

You likely won't get an RMA or return swap if you can't generate a display driver crash at stock settings.

You can't RMA / swap based on not being able to OC

Good luck.