***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

probably go up to 4.7 if you get a good chip.

 

I think I may have pushed my i7-6820hk as far as it can go without thermal throttling. With XTU scores compared on hwbot, I've got the Highest *stock cooling* 4.2ghz score with all 4 cores on 42x, only 4.2ghz above me was the watercooled laptop. 4.2ghz is the highest 4 core multiplier I can set in the bios, it says invalid entry when I try to enter 43 or higher. I could probably go into XTU and squeek out 4.3ghz but I don't think it will be stable during games due to the heat. Not sure what else I could do to improve on the score or the temperatures. Any gt83 i7-6820hkers out there manage to do better? If so, what are your settings?

 

Go to "overclocking performance menu->Processor" in your Bios.
You should be able to set multiplier overrides higher than 42 there.
I don't believe your bios has the "OC" section that the GT73VR/GT75VR/GT75 Titan have (that allow you to directly enter a CPU global multiplier).

 

42 was the highest all-core multiplier that could be set to in the performance overclocking menu, it says invalid value or something like that if I try to goto 43 or higher in the bios, in xtu it is no problem.

 

More intentional MSI spaghetti cancer code eh? the help says it goes up to 80...

 

Yeah I dunno what the deal is with that. It's not like 4.3ghz or higher on all 4 cores would be stable under full gaming load anyway. The heat gets up there. I could get a cooling pad but then i'd feel stupid lol.

 

Off topic, found this post in another thread. Saw this option in my bios. Should I be doing this so I can get past the 45tdp limit?

"
Your processor is a different generation and your bios has different code. You need to read the help strings to the right and find out how IMON SLOPE and IMON OFFSET work for you. This guide is ONLY for the GT73VR and *NEWER* Titan series laptops (Stealth Thin may work), not for yours. If you have IMON SLOPE, set it to a value of 50, if and only if 100 is 1.0x (read the help next to the options). In this case if 100 is 1.0x, 50 is 50%, meaning the CPU will report its using half the TDP. Imon offset should be set to negative (NOT positive). setting imon offset to a positive value makes the CPU report HIGHER TDP than its actually using. PROCHOT is probably set as a hardware lock (you can call it software, as BIOS is basically software) for 80C. Your system is NOT made for overclocking at all. You have literally the cheapest version laptop of skylake possible to even buy.

You can't just read what someone says without looking at your own Bios and checking the values for yourself. This is one reason why these options are hidden from the end user. Most people just want results and are not willing to do the work to study why results work. Your CPU is also a very low end value CPU so all throttling and other restrictions will be very tight on it. Also the cooling may be insufficient as well. If you are getting 80C already, you are not going to be able handle more TDP anyhow, without repasting, and judging from how you ask questions, I don't even know if you know how to repaste (don't ever try repasting without experience and taking an LOT of time to learn the basics!)"

 

Anyone happen to have their mobile gtx 1070 coreclock + memory OC numbers off hand? Looking to OC through afterburner and just want a quick base to start off with when it comes to adding to the coreclock/memclock. Yes I know it's tdp locked and that the voltage is locked, just need the base oc ranges.

Also, when overclocked with increased voltage, is it a bad idea to set minimum processor state to 1% in an effort keep idle temps below 40 degrees? Will the fluctuation of increased voltage being sent through the processor from stepping up/down degrade the processor? Downloaded MSI Silent option to deal with the top end temps and just want to get the idles squared away without having to up my low temp fan speed since i've found a stable 4.2.

Found these on ebay. Seems to good to be true. Waiting for photos of the units for sale from the seller. Figured I would share. Seller has been with ebay since 2005 and has positive feedback. Will update with seller conversation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-18-4GT83VR-TITAN-SLI-212-7920HQ-CHEAPEST-ON-THE-WEB-WILL-SELL-FAST/223092116323?hash=item33f1538b63:g:RvIAAOSw51JbaVMI&_sacat=0&_nkw=msi+gt83vr&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2065413.m570.l1313.TR8.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmsi+gt83vr.TRS2

This model is the i7-7920hq. So I thought this was a complete turdchip like others have stated but I saw that it can achieve 4.7/4.5/4.4/4.3 ghz on 1-4 cores when overclocked(i'm guessing this is a partially unlocked chip like the 8850h). I went on the hwbot site to check out xtu scores but I could not find anything relevant(top 4-core score was 46 points lower than my i7-6820hk @ 4.2ghz but they also thermal throttled hard @ 100c so I think there is room for improvement on xtu scores once temperatures are under control with liquid metal). Once this comes in the mail and I get it repasted I can sell my 6re as long as the i7-7920hq performs as good or better. This model uses the same motherboard as the gt83-6re(MS-1815) so ram bandwidth is limited to 34.2 GB/s or something like that meaning the highest speed ram you can run is 2800mhz(completely fine). It comes with 64gb of 2400mhz ram(i'll probably just keep my hyperx impact 2400mhz ram and oc it to 2800mhz like I did with the 6re), 1 tb nvme raid 0 and two gtx 1080s.


Edit:Spoke with the seller. He provided photos of one of the units. I scoured ebay/google to see if it was an image that had been already used. No duplicates. Weird to see these getting liquidated from a guy that has a relationship with a distributor. I'm going to take my chances, worse thing that can happen is my money gets tied up for a month or two in claims.

 

real quick, the ram slots. Trying out 3200mhz ram from gskill. So far i've only been able to boot up one stick @ 3200. Should I be inserting 1 stick in the bottom slot underneath and then the second stick under the hood of the laptop for proper booting or should both sticks be underneath?

 

It shouldn't matter. But don't expect a BGA turdbook to work with 3200 mhz RAM. It was only validated and tested with 2400 mhz RAM. Some 2666 mhz kits will work. Everything ELSE is GL HF. Meaning you're on your own. The unlocked bios has multipliers (you may have to find them) to allow up to 4000 mhz RAM to work. Whether it accepts it or not is @Papusan vomit.

 

Dear friends,

I would like to ask a few questions about this notebook.

I wanna buy:
MSI GT83VR 6RE-042CZ Titan SLI
Notebook - Intel Core i7 6820HK Skylake, 18,4" LED 1920x1080 IPS antireflexný, RAM 32GB DDR4, 2x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB GDDR5 SLI, NVMe M.2 SSD 256GB (2x 128GB) + HDD 1TB 7200

But.

Do you have any driver issues?

What about SLI , do you have any problems with 3d applications, games, etc, becasuse of SLI/drivers?

Are you happy that there is no 144hz and g-sync? Do you think it is important option?

I wanna this notebook for games/graphic app.. Would you reccomend it?

Thank you very much for your help.

Tomas

 

I personally have no issues with this machine aside from the ones created by windows or nvidia when they update.

SLI works ok for the most part on titles that support it, it's great, on titles that don't I turn it off or let it decide what it wants to do.

As for the screen. I treat it as a secondary or as an "on the go" display. Preferring to use a 34 inch ultrawide when I'm at home.

If you are hung up on sli and the screen I would suggest you step down to the gt75 line of laptops. Which is a more or less a cut down option in some ways and a superior one in others.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys I just want to bounce something off you guys real quick.

Currently I'm having purple or green lines run up and down and across my screen respectively. I've tested a few connectors and it keeps happening on the external monitor.

Could it be my GPU's dying or has microsoft/Nvidia recently broken something.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Did you repaste your GPU's with anything, ever?

 

Nope, still stock. I've fiddled with the connectors and moved it around a bit.

My theories are:

1. I have a mini DP to DP adapter and heat blowing on it may be pissing it off.

2. For whatever reason my laptop isn't breathing, despite being on a clear section of my desk.

Doing some fire strike runs, after re arranging the cables and raising the back I cannot get the problem to return. I will try to play a game or something tomorrow to replicate a prolonged strain.



Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

May need a repaste.

Try:

1) Coolermaster Gel Maker nano for the GPU's.
2) replace the stock thermal pads with Arctic 1mm thermal pads (you can buy a 145x145mm sheet on Amazon for cheap).

Be careful and UNPLUG BATTERY AS SOON AS YOU OPEN THE LAPTOP. there should be NO current when servicing it.

 

I'm gonna run through all my other options before pulling it apart.

I had a thought while I was rolling about in bed it could be gsync being broken again.



Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Sorry for the double post guys but I found out the issue, THE MONITOR IS TOAST!!

Edit: so update on this wild ride, The laptop is safe, however the monitor gets the red and green lines as shown above in HDMI or DP, at first I thought it was a heat issue and poked around the cables and it went away, then today when I adjusted something on the desk it came back, poking around further shows me that unless the cables are pressed in as hard as they can be I get this issue. I know its a bit off topic but what do you think I should do guys?

 

How do you know the cable itself doesn't have a short in it or a break in the cable, rather than there being a defect in the monitor PCB end or connection end on the monitor's mainboard?
Can the entire cable be replaced without soldering?

 

I tested a few different cables and even switched devices and inputs, it happened with pc in hdmi, ps4 in hdmi and pc into DP.

I should have a 2-3 year manufacturer defect warranty still on it. Good thing I never got rid of the box. Lmao

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Would one of you kind folks post the GTX 1080 VBIOS from your laptop for me ? I am trying to test a few bios that would help me make the Alienware Community happy. TIA

My project of running a Zotac GTX 1080 GDDR5X in an Alienware M17X R4,

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/m17x-r4-with-gtx-1080-gddr5x-8gb.822707/page-11

 

Not sure if you will find many people on this forum that do this kind of stuff they are mostly on the MSI forums.


I did some digging and found something, I hope it helps.

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/197477/197477

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Thank you @NuclearLizard . I tried that one and no luck. I will continue to search. Thanks again.

 

Is anyone else having issues with windows constantly deleting the blue tooth drivers in their devices? I can no longer use any of the Killer utilities or even basic blue tooth functionality because every time I turn around the damn drivers are gone.

 

Yes, happened to me for a while. I think the problem disappeared though meanwhile. (maybe I got a new driver pushed down via windows update). I will try to pay attention if it reoccurs.

 

Alright cool, I haven't noticed it in a long time but I recently started playing around with it and noticing network issues. I think it might have to do with the new microsoft update, and their move to the UWD platform on killers end.
I get this then it uninstalls everything

Spoiler

 

Results Report 11/27/19 - I7-6820HK OC tweeks and G.Skill 3200mhz ram test.

For those of you who may still be utilizing the gt83vr 6820hk models, I believe i've found the sweet spot for overclocking to 4.2 ghz. Granted, every chip is different, This will set your baseline.

Instead of Ocing to 4.2ghz on all 4 cores with a +40mv to +60mv overvolt on all 4 cores while leaving the cache untouched at 3.6ghz.....
(my xtu score was 1421 with this old setting)

Try this in the bios instead....

4.2ghz on all 4 cores with +20 mv core voltage offset(You might be able to get away with not adding any voltage here depending on what you normally use your computer for. If you are a gamer or do intense editing, you need this little bit of extra voltage when going to 4.2ghz or your programs will crash)
4.1ghz on the ring/cache with +20 mv cache voltage offset(If you don't increase the voltage on the cache when you raise the ratio, you aren't going to boot up properly)

XTU scores went up to 1439(only 5 points short of my xtu enabled 4.3ghz OC) with these new settings and temperatures under load only hit 90c during the benchmark. My idle temperatures are also about 5-7c lower(35c down from the low 40s). Overall, less voltage being used and lower temps with better performance, I was really pleased how this result turned out.


I bought a G.Skill 3200mhz ram kit(8gb x 4) from newegg to test out how high ram can actually go on the 6820hk on the MS-1815c motherboard. Long story short, You can ONLY go as high as 2800mhz as you only have so much throughput(roughly 3.6 total regardless of the 4.1 NB ring/cache adjustments). You can boot up at 3200mhz or 3000mhz if you use 2 sticks, but then I was limited as far as how large of loads I could work. I spent hours fooling around with uncore voltage, system agent etc etc thinking that maybe this was a voltage setting issue but I going to take a wild guess here that memory bandwidth is limited by the DEFAULT stock NB ring/cache clock regardless if you OC the NB ring/cache clock or not. If i'm wrong here, please correct me.

For reference, 64bit x 2 channels x memory frequency = memory bandwidth(aka throughput)
short maths- 128 x 2800mhz = 35.84GB throughput(this equals roughly the default stock NB ring/cache clock thus maxing out my available memory bandwidth).


I knew when I bought the higher rated ram that it may not work properly but luckily I was able to return it. I ended reinstalling my 4 x 8gb sticks of cl14 hyperx 2400mhz ram and ocing back up to 2800mhz @ cl14. Got lucky on the silicone here, 2800mhz @ cl14 is pretty fast. No sweat.

Hopefully this information will found to be helpful to those who like to play around with their clocks .

 

Northbridge speed (Northbridge clock) is the cache frequency.

This has absolutely no relation to DDR frequency. This shouldn't affect RAM speeds.

Are you talking about the 100 mhz vs 133 mhz base DRAM reference clock thing?
Or the QCLK ODD Ratio which adds 100 mhz or 133 mhz to the reference clock?

You're trying to use RAM (with a base ratio of 12, at 133 mhz reference clock), with a mainboard that wasn't QVL certified for memory above 2400 mhz, even if there are bios multipliers that allow much higher. It also does not help matters that at least desktop DDR4 3200 mhz memory is supposed to be 1.35v. Yet your laptop is locked at 1.20v, using higher speed RAM that was never tested. That's probably why you can't get the gskill RAM stable, even though I know this RAM is rated for 1.20v officially, plus the Bios was never tested for stability with anything higher than 2400 mhz, even though there are memory ratios up to *15*!, which is 4000 mhz DDR4. There may be sub settings in memory configuration that you can change, but don't expect anything except 'Hello OS reinstall' from dealing with settings with no documentation.

Some of the newer MSIbooks have memory voltage available in the unlocked Bios menus.

Did you try increasing the uncore by 200mv?
did you loosen the tRFC setting by 100 or 200ns?

 

I had read earlier that the NB was the memory controller or w/e. So is it just a coincidence that the maximum memory bandwidth listed for the 6820hk on the intel website roughly equals the stock turbo enabled ring/cache(35.84gb mem bandwidth and a rounded up 3.6)?

Edit: I'm reading from bad sources doh

Second edit: intel site states 34.1gb/s max memory bandwidth, 2400mhz = 30.7gb/s memory bandwidth and 2666mhz = 34.1gb/s memory bandwidth. Right now i'm at 2800 mhz and fully stable. 2800 mhz is technically only half a strap increase over the max stated memory bandwidth when using a ref clock of 133mhz with 10 straps(with odd ratio enabled+ half strap) coming in at 35.8gb/s. How do I know if i'm actually getting the extra 1.7 gb/s or is it just going to waste or am I getting it since it is stable? Just want to make sure I fully understand how this works

 

Probably from QVL (2133 mhz memory I assume, 2400 mhz for kaby lake) and CPU base clocks? I don't know if turbo boost is factored into this. But I know absolutely nothing about this stuff.
But this is what happens when you get BGA that is only rated up to a certain configuration. Unlock menus to expose higher RAM multipliers and well, you're on your own.

Nothing to do with the actual memory that's currently installed. Remember hackness got 2400 mhz samsung running at more than 3200 mhz. But his bios has more adjustments and a newer chipset.

Another problem with BGA cancerbooks is very poor access to subtimings and no access to tertiary timings. And the memory settings seem to be related to training. You probably should have tried messing with those before returning the G-skill (to be honest it's a good idea to have some throwaway SSD sitting around with a windows 10 extra install because you really risk trashing the entire OS there).

 

If only there was a socketed gt83 model ><. Or if only clevo came out with something just like a socketed gt83. I'm totally sold on the chasis/hood + mechanical keyboard + number pad of the gt83. Anyway to communicate this with clevo lol?

 

Clevo does not care about what their customers want. They only sell the chassis of their laptop to PC Builders and then those PC builders slap on components like the RAM, CPU, etc. and sell it to us. That's unfortunate, if they did listen, the first thing they would've done is stop using their darn 15 inch keyboard since 5 years in their bigger laptops giving us a cramped keyboard with lots of wasted bezel.

 

When using ac/dc llc, Do i enable it on just the core or do i enable it on the core and the cache?

I have it enabled on the core only right now and finally figured out how to use static voltage LOL. Does it always add 50mv to my voltage during load while in turbo mode? New benchmark hot off press. Took the #3 spot.

https://hwbot.org/submission/4005089_duplicity_xtu_core_i7_6820hk_1455_marks/

 

Just the core.
Are you talking about IA AC DC Loadline? Enable it? what are you talking about here? You mean setting it to "1"?
The default value is 180 (1.8 mOhms) which will raise whatever CPU voltage you set in bios, by up to 180mv higher than what you set, at maximum load (e.g. Prime95, LinX, etc).

Most bioses don't even have a "ring" section for CPU VR. Kaby lake doesn't have it. Skylake seems to but its as worthless as changing it in system agent.
I think the "CPU Cache ICCMAX" that Throttlestop can change might come from the "Ring" VR section that is missing on all laptops AND desktops after skylake where you can change "Ring" ICCMax auto value.

 

Yeah I set the IA AC DC Load line to 1 so I could find the most stable static voltage for the core when oced. So it doesn't matter if I set it to 1 for the ring also? My voltage is static at 1.25v and underload it automatically goes to 1.30v and then comes back down when not under load. Is the +50mv increase underload standard behavior(all cstates disabled, c1e diabled, speedstep disabled, speedshift epp enabled but set to 0 for figuring this out)?

 

as a general principal, should the cache voltage be the same as the core voltage? core is on 1.25v, cache is still at default stock. currently working with 4.2ghz on all the cores and 4.1ghz on the cache.

 

This has been asked many times before and @hmscott answered you guys many times.
Cache and core voltage MUST be the same and you can't even separate them in the bios (there's no option for that).

there is in Throttlestop, but setting them to different values causes problems. the highest voltage is what is used if that happens, but then if an *AVX* load is detected, the LOWER of the 2 voltages get used but I don't know if it's the CPU voltage (if lower) that gets used or if its the cache (If lower). This is an UNSUPPORTED configuration, so I will not help you if you choose this. You're on your own here.

 

No worries, appreciate you chiming in regardless.

Did a lot of trial and error today. Maybe this information will help someone out in the future. So I did some reading on LLC. Apparently each mode is different for each motherboard. They are completely customized for every motherboard model. As we already know, we don't have a manual for the mobo/msi bios. This meant in order to find out if I was using the best LLC setting, I had to try several of them. I tried 1-10. In the long run, ac/dc load line 1 ended up being the best option to find the lowest possible stable voltage for 4.2core/4.2cache since it eliminates vdroop completely even though it applied a slight overvolt to non turbo and turbo voltage. In my case it applies .15mv, sometimes .20mv. I was able to counteract this by lowering my base voltage by the exact overvolt amount caused from ac/dc 1. I suppose a voltage offset would have counteracted this as well.

Also realized that a base non-turbo voltage of 1.25v was overkill for 4.2ghzcore/4.2ghzcache. 1.20v base works fine going up to 1.25v max under load in turbo in all benchmarks/extended gaming. XTU Benchmark max temp is now at 79c which is actually 12c-13c lower than my previous 4.2 oc settings.

In terms of seperate core/cache voltages, this bios allows you to set different voltages for both. It was just easier setting the cores/cache to the same multiplier and using the same voltage though since the extra heat is not nearly as much as it was before.

After completely reflecting on the results and what I learned today about vdroop/LLC, It turns out I was overclocking completely wrong in the past when going for anything higher than 4.0 ghz and applying too much voltage to remain stable. Little did I know I was overcompensating because of vdroop. It added more heat than I would have expected.

@Falkentyne Again, I do appreciate your help/guidance in the past. In general, I guess I didn't realize that this chip normally gets +50mv added to what voltage is used while under load in turbo mode hence why I asked why it would go from 1.25v to 1.30v so sorry for the pointless question. Didn't mean to get you annoyed or anything and I can understand why you did. Thanks for being a great resource regardless. The reason I kept revisiting the subject of overclocking is because something felt off. While I could OC at 4.2ghz, temps were still felt too high. Like sure, I wouldn't throttle during a benchmark anymore but when I started comparing all the xtu results with the same processor, there was clearly something wrong since their temperatures were substantially lower than mine at the time yet I was using liquid metal. I refused to believe my chip was crap so I did some digging on the forums. If I hadn't read all of your posts from the past in the i7-6820hk threads and this thread, I wouldn't have learned what LLC is or what vdroop was. This fixed everything. LLC is awesome.

Thanks for chiming in as often as you do.

 

Wasn't annoyed.
@hmscott has been very helpful with helping people undervolt their computers.

And yes, Intel tunes their systems to basically be forced to be stable at 100C, which is why the Vid's are set so high. This high VID isn't the problem because desktops will show this also.

The entire problem is that MSI is using some sort of 'built in' loadline calibration to stop 'vcore vdroop', which actually causes, in combination with IA AC DC loadline, at the "default" values, to pour excessive voltages into the CPU. But the problem is, on "loadline Calibration" functions on *VCORE*, not on CPU VID. But there is no vcore sensor in any of these laptops. This prevents anyone from seeing if CPU VID is deviating from CPU Vcore, and in addition, CPU VID is linked to override voltages and the override voltages (manual) are linked to IA AC DC loadline. This is a problem.

For example, on a desktop, if you set a manual voltage (like 1.30v), this will completely ignore whatever the VID is requesting and will ignore the IA AC DC loadline settings if you manually changed them.
On the laptops however, the CPU VID acts like an inaccurate vcore sensor, and the IA AC DC setting (mostly the AC setting; DC has very low influence in actual voltage BUT it does affect the reported VID) greatly influences the *starting* CPU voltage. So if you are using manual voltage, the IA AC Default value actaully boosts this voltage up (by value which is unknown) but I estimated that at full load, the voltage is boosted up (at default IA AC) by at least 100mv.

What's even stranger, and the real kicker, is that the VID being reported with 'default' IA AC DC Loadline is being misreported at least 100mv BELOW the actual real voltage. (Doesn't matter if it's adaptive or override). Keeping IA Loadline at auto and putting DC loadline at "1" seems to show a good approximation of what voltage is actually being used.

this would be 'no problem' if there was vdroop that 'dropped' the voltage back down to 'close' to the bios setting at heavy load, but it seems MSI 'compensated' for vdroop internally, and boom, problems.
On average, 1.8 mOhms of resistance is equal to 180mv at 100 amps of current. Is it surprising that most users can undervolt their MSI laptops by an average of 150mv and stay stable (unless overclocking?)

 

When it comes to this specific bios, for ac-1, The extra voltage is about .+10mv to +25mv on idle, and when underload turboed it's an extra 50mv on top of those numbers. As I moved up in ac #s the overvolt got higher so I stuck with ac llc 1.

In terms of sensors, I know there are some options in the bios that aren't enabled. I'll have to see if there is one for vcore.

I'll have to fiddle around with ia ac/dc loadline to see if there are any voltage reporting changes.

 

Managed to take the #1 spot wooohoooo
http://hwbot.org/submission/4018441_duplicity_xtu_core_i7_6820hk_1498_marks

 

@Falkentyne @hmscott Irrc you guys told me these gtx 1070 cards are hard locked at 120 watts a piece. I'm noticing power draws as high as 273 watts both cards combined(141.827 and 131.502). Is this normal? Gpus are at factory settings.

 

They can always spike above TDP. Just because you saw power draw that high doesn't mean it was sustained.

 

I don't recall mentioning any "hardlocked" MXM's, but the general TDP rating for GTX 1070 MXM's for MSI's is 125w, 1080's 150w, but I would assume there is variation over time +-5w-10w depending on the laptop model it's installed in, with the firmware limiting power maximum's.

 

gotcha thank you guys!

 

How many SSD does this machine support? Same as GT80 SLI (2x2280 PCI,1x2280 SATA and 1x2.5" SATA) Or more?

 

Some GT80 have these interface.
Up to 1024GB Super RAID 3 + 1TB HDD 7200rpm + ODD bay.

 

the older, non-SLI ones do, without PCIE interface as far as I know. The move to PCEi/NVMe dropped one 2280 module to my regret.

I would love to have 2xPCIe; 2xSATA - all 2280s and 1x2.5" SATA.

 

You can get a 9.5mm Sata3 m.2 Oddbay and swap out the bd-e. It even has a built in fan for cooling.

 

Interesting possibility. If I get desperate, I might.

OTOH, upgrading them all to 2TB modules is also enticing.