***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

Let me correct myself. lol ..it's a SLI MXM setup ..not for notebook. But here is the picture of the product on ebay. It's an all-in-one MXM gpu watercooling setup.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/467399-ZH1...376?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

 

The problem is the heatsink gets saturated extremely fast. The three to four pipes simply aren't enough, so the heatsink heats up to a point where it gives off heat fast enough that it can't heat up anymore as the absorption rate is no longer high enough. For example, you can see a desktop system heat up to 55C in 2 seconds of prime95 (no AVX) and then slowly rise up to 62C and then stop there. While a laptop running the exact same vcore on the same family chip (ok let's say a 9900K @ 4.7 ghz @ 1.27v, with 4 cores disabled), vs a 7820HK @ 4.7 ghz @ 1.27v, and loadline calibration set to "standard" (1.6 mOhms) on the desktop system, to try to keep the voltages similar, the laptop would heat up instantly to 66C, and then very slowly rise up to 90C. So there you go.

 

Not with this system. The two FAT pipes below are good enough on their own to tame the 7920hq with liquid metal. I ran an hour test of prime95 with a 4.3ghz overclock on all cores and bclk at 102.9mhz. Max temp reached was 78c instead of the 83c(before arctic silver repaste). No throttling and no current limit throttling due to my unlocked bios. Speed stayed the same, voltage stayed the same. Basically a 7700k in a laptop because it genuinely doesn’t throttle in any way like how tf did msi do it when Clevo can’t do it. There is one disadvantage being the insane cooling noise from the two twin-turbo like fans.

Maybe I’m lucky to have such an efficient 7920hq, my vcore voltage is extremely low for what frequency I can clock either way I’m great full for actually owning this bga ‘trash’ because to me it’s far from it...

 

That actually looks amazing, imagine sourcing a desktop motherboard that could handle two mxm cards in sli. That would be amazing.

 

OOOOOO you had me goin for a hot minute lol. Mind was set on finding a liquid cooling kit too lol. Definitely had me puzzled, was thinking "why on earth did nobody mention this before" lol. O wells

 

Going from the relatively quiet under load P870DM to the F-15 level noise of that MSI, I know that will wake you up in the morning!

 

Yeah definitely, these fans are no joke, I'm concerned (lol) that laptop might actually lift off the table at one stage considering the amount of air its pushing lol

BTW these fans are very fat too so it's no surprised that they are loud AF, if you have experience with delta fans you'll know that they can get so fast on an overvolt that they actually lift up their own weight and start flying LOL

Delta fans= future of flying cars

 

If only filling up 2 slots with ram, Is it better to use the ram slots on the bottom of the motherboard or the ramslots on the top of the laptop underneath the hood? Is one of the channels closer to the CPU resulting in better latency/clocks since there is less traveltime on the mobo or are both channels equally close?

 

Both are the same distance away. There will literally be no latency difference as the memory is then handled by a controller.

To future proof my machine I put ram stick on the bottom of the mb instead of the top. In that case I can remove the top cover in future and place 2 ram sticks if needed.

 

Thank you. I decided to test out a corsair vengeance 4x8gb quad channel 4000mhz so-dimm kit on this laptop for ****s and giggles to see how high it would boot. Can boot as high as 3100 but get a bsod "memory management". She doesn't want to run all 4 at cl15/3000mhz 1.2v and resets back to default, XMPs won't work either. She'll do 2 sticks at cl15/3000 though. Luckily I don't need to use 32gb so i'm going to place 2 under the hood and leave the bottom blank/sell the other 2 sticks. Gotta keep it looking good under the hood.

 

Fair enough. It’s always been an issue with laptops that they can’t run memory clocks above 3000mhz or 3200mhz. The controllers can't handle speeds above this frequency.

 

Yeah all comes down to the bios and sometimes the IMC. Pretty sure that If I could change dram voltage from 1.20v to 1.25v or higher things would be different ;/. The IMC on these gt83 machines are actually really good considering they came out 3 years ago. I can run up to cl14 2800mhz with 4x8gb, cl15 3000mhz with 2x8gb, and i'm not sure what the max speed would be with 2x16gb or 4x16gb ram sticks but I think it would probably be around the 2400-2666 range. EDIT: All 4 sticks @3ghz now. Just need to tighten timings and test for stability.
Here is Aida64 results.
Stability tested with aida64 and memtest64(22 loops 95% ram utilization, no errors). Not sure if it is sufficient enough stability testing though.
CL15 3000mhz
CR-1
CL-15
tRCD/tRP-15
tRAS-35
tRFC-374(this is as low as this will go)
tREFI-65535
tWR-16
tRRD-4
tRTP-8
tFAW-23
tCWL-15
Memory strap-30
Memory clock multiplier- 1.00

Memory Reads-45,552 MB/s

Memory Writes-46,751 MB/s

Memory Copy-41,623 MB/s

Memory Latency-42.2 NS

IMC is pretty good, performing on par or better than most cl15 3000mhz desktop sticks with the exception of tRFC(pretty sure it's the IMC not letting me go lower, these are samsung b-die ram sticks).

Going from stock 2133mhz to oced 3000mhz increased everything across the board by about 33% or more. Laptop even feels faster/snappier with 2x8gb 3000mhz ram vs 4x8gb 2800mhz ram. Didn't really think i would notice a difference between 2.8ghz and 3ghz ram but I do.

 

Managed to stabilize all 4 sticks at 3000mhz with the same timings and I was able to bring down trfc to 327.
ran 20 loops straight in memtest64 using all 32gb. No errors.

Tried booting 3100mhz again at the 3000mhz timings but got "memory management" bsod again right away during aida64 stress test. May have to increase system agent a bit, only at 1.15. Or I might have to edit the timings to match the latency of 3k i dunno. If there wasn't enough dram voltage supplied it wouldn't have booted in the first place right?, or can insufficient dram voltage still allow you to boot but could be unstable once in windows?

Also, obligatory xtu benchmark. Daily Driver settings https://hwbot.org/submission/4161222

 

I must say, overclocking is a very satisfying hobby. Figuring this **** out is hella fun. I've gotten these to boot into windows as high as 3333mhz so far, working on getting 3333mhz stable.

Currently have 4 x 8gb sticks stable at @3200mhz CR1 16-15-15-35-374. Yay.

 

Yup, it's been a great 40 year ride exploring the physical and software tweaks and tunings, and increasing the clock speed was the first obvious thing for me to do, but back then you had to physically remove the "crystals", but as a Amateur Radio operator from 8 years old, I had already gotten used to swapping xtals for transmitter frequency changes...that was before "VFO's".

"Hey, there's crystals in these darned things - computers, I wonder if I can change their frequency to make them run faster??..."

How about you?, did you start with software tuning, hardware tuning? OC or voltage tuning first?

 

Oldschool

I started overclocking a year ago when I bought the laptop when I joined this group. You, falkentyne and lizard helped me out greatly ^^. Started ocing with dragoncenter last year, then got rid of it once I started getting familiar with the bios. Just been tuning everything through the bios. OC first on the ram. I still don't know how to increase the dram voltage on this motherboard. In the memory section it says "N/A" with a dropdown menu to the right that allows me to select 1.2, 1.25, 1.30, 1.35 all the way up to 1.65v. The dram voltage never applies though because when I go back into the bios it is back at 1.20v. HWinfo says my dram is currently at 1.200v.

 

This is a new quad channel corsair vengeance CL19 4000mhz kit that i'm working with. It's samsung b-die. Figured they would give me the best chances of hitting a good OC on this mobo at the tightest possible timings. The ram was only certified QVL for Asrock mini-itx/ac motherboards with Skylake-X processors. I figured i'd take the gamble and see how far I can go at 1.20v. Maybe this motherboard has adaptive dram voltage and it supplies whatever is needed for the current clock or something or maybe I truly am locked in at 1.20v dram voltage ;/.

 

Yup, even if your BIOS had unlocked menu items, it's more likely than not the end points are locked down from access by owners. You may be able to trick the sensors to get what you want in some cases.

Laptops don't get the loving care that desktop BIOS's provide for tuning, it's sad really, but in essence companies decide there is hardly any headroom for power and thermals as designed and so to reduce RMA's they lock things down - probably more than absolutely necessary.

Although we can force things and go beyond those limits - and even have long term success much of the time, there are times that the design, over-designed as they are, isn't enough. Like with AW blowing VRM's and other power components upstream feeding the OC'd circuits failing.

I've blown or used up plenty of hardware while learning how far to push things, and found over time there's a practical limit to the value of OC'ing past a certain level - the law of diminishing returns - what is now the "daily driver" level.

Now a simple undervolt, fan curve tuning, and XTU / MSI AB / TS is enough to get 99% of the performance, which is enough for me long term.

Glad to see someone have fun with it.

 

Yeah definitely don't wanna blow this thing up haha. Putting some finishing touches on 3200mhz. Weird that jedec trefi for 3200(12480) gives me lower aida4 read/copy scores than jedec trefi for 3100(12094). still gotta try 65535 as well. I'm wondering if there is a point where too high of refi has a negative impact. time to research. Maybe I can drop the trfc to 327 to improve a bit more. I swear, i'm pretty much a motorhead but i don't like getting my hands dirty so i chose computers haha.



Aida64 results 4.2ghz on core & cache @1.225v w/ DDR4 clocked at 3200 CR-1 16-15-15-35-374 @1.20v

3200 w/ 12,094 trefi VS 3200 w/ 12,480 trefi
read 46,097 MB/s 45,347 MB/s
write 49,506 MB/s 49,704 MB/s
copy 45,414 MB/s 45,351 MB/s
latency 43.8 NS 43.7 NS


Looks like somewhere between 12,904 and 12,480 is the sweet spot for now.

An of course, obligatory XTU benchmark. https://hwbot.org/submission/4162965

 

@hmscott @Falkentyne Riddle me this, CPU-ID is showing that i have 2 desktop gtx 1070 gpus(1920 shaders, 150tdp and desktop sku #). Mobile cards are supposed to have 2048 shaders and 120tdp. Did nvidia bin out their lower end desktop 1070 gpu dies to MSI or something? There has to be a way for me to unlock the extra 30 watts per card without modding hardware. Must have all the watts....

 

Bro I have this issue where I cannot tdp mod any of my cards as it leads to a black screen on boot. If tdp is on stock the card boots fine. WTF is that about?! My gtx 1070's are fairly new revisions on any vbios the same thing happens.

 

That would be a great question for Falkentyne as he is the only person I've talked to that has tdp modded his mobile 1070 to desktop 1070ti levels of power. Unfortunately I don't have any experience in TDP modding at all. Only thing i've modded was the hyperx savage ssd case so that it would fit face up showing the logo under the hood lol.

If you want help tuning the cpu, ram, optimizing raid0 speeds or overclocking the monitor to 100hz, I can help with that stuff.

 

@Kevin@GenTechPC since you've disassembled a gt63vr with an rtx 2080, was there a power cable connected to the card or not. Because I think it is very possible for it to work in the gt83vr with the right heatsink mods.

 

First four bytes of the modded vbios must be 55AA for MSI 1070 (or whatever the original values were in the unaltered file if it's not 55AA). If they are different then the bytes got corrupted. You can look for yourself in the original vbios file. it should have 55AA as the first two bytes.
I believe this happens because of the 1.8v adapter sometimes. (TL;DR: the first two bytes should not change. This won't happen if you do not use the 1.8v adapter, but you risk destroying the vbios chip as I do not believe the vbios chip is 3.3v compliant.
You can do a dump of the bios after modding it, you will see 55AA. Then flash it, then do a read on the flash. If there is a verify error, then the file changed. Or if you do a read on the flash and it's not 55AA anymore, then you need to reflash it again until it reads back as 55AA (this is for MSI vbios; other vbioses will have different two bytes; the key is that the first 2 bytes should NOT change in the unmodded vbios vs the modded vbios vs the flashed read).

 

But I flash the stock vbios back and without fail the card works flawlessly again. So I think the cards have something in place stopping them from posting if too much current is drawn.

My original Eurocom msi gtx 1070 didn’t have this problem but it was Rev 1.2 these are rev 1.0 taken from gt83vrs
The programmer works fine with other mxms too like my quadro m1000m or even my 980m when @Prema vbios was on it, that card was amazing btw.

 

Current draw on POST is a possible issue. Try the default or a lower power limit with a higher adjustable limit available through overclocking and use MSI Afterburner to auto load your OC on startup. (I have a similar issue with the pump wired to the 5V line in my WC project, I had to wire in a switch to disable it at POST or the EC panics and refuses to boot)

The other possibility is the tweaker tool is mangling the vbios. Check if a version prepared by the tool with identical power limits works ok

 

You still didn't answer my question.
Did you a *READ* on the flashed card?
Did you check that the first 2 bytes (usually 55AA on MSI 1070's) did not change?
If they changed, then yes, you will have a black screen.
Any chance you can post and upload your modded vbios here? As well as the original vbios?
So do this:
1) upload the original vbios in a zip file.
2) mod and flash that vbios.
3) do a *READ* of the mod *after* it is flashed and save it (not before the flash, but after--read it from the flashed chip).
4) upload that also.

 

Currently working on stabilizing CL17 3400mhz . All the megahertzzzzzzzz

 

ok, definitely need more frequency ranges. XMP works @ 1.35v but only at 2133 and 2400 since those are the only 2 frequencies I can select from. Using a custom profile automatically defaults voltage back to 1.20v no matter what, even if I load an xmp as a skeleton to go off of. Aside from Svet(still waiting for him to get back to me), who else can mod an msi bios and give me a full range of frequencies to choose from? @Falkentyne @hmscott you guys know anyone by chance?

 

In your bios you maybe able to unlock the advanced menu idk if it will work though. Try this: press and hold Right shift, Right Ctrl, Left Alt and F2. Press these at the same time and you should see advanced menu options maybe? I don’t have to do this as mine is unlocked at stock for some reason.

 

@Falkentyne I’ll upload the vbioses shortly, thanks for the help bro

 

Advanced menu provides a dropdown of only 2133, 2400 or auto. currently stuck on a custom profile @ 3200 cl16 @ 1.20v dram voltage because I can't load any xmp profiles greater than 2400mhz since xmp only loads at whatever maximum frequency I select(2400mhz being the highest option). xmp on auto tries to load the 4000mhz profile that is shown by default which doesn't load(as expected), IMC definitely can't handle that, at least not at 4 or 2 sticks.

Must get custom bios to load profiles up to 4000mhz. Pretty sure the max for this mobo is 3600 or 3733 since system agent geyserville menu shows options for lower point up to 1800/1867.

 

Ok bro, I would I have given you my bios but your chipset is different, hence you would most likely brick your machine, plus my gt83vr has been sold for a 8850h version with gtx 1080's

 

Ya our bios wouldn't be compatible. Are you able to actually select from a full range of frequencies for ram or are they gimping you with only a few?

 

It had the same set as options which you described but it allowed me to enter a manual overclock value too. I typed in 2800 and it saved it. Although my computer started, it crashed like crazy with following bluescreen errors like memory management, irql less or not equal etc. I don't o.c ram to be honest just the cpu and gpu.

 

Gotcha yeah ram needs a bit of tuning when manually overclocking. It's usually a tedious mission but once a nice stable overclock on the ram has been found the results are definitely felt during everyday use. I recommend jumping down the rabbit hole once you've found a stable oc on the cpu/gpu otherwise you are leaving serious performance gains on the table.

 

It's interesting to see how much of a difference ram speed/timings can make. 1st place 4ghz cpu w/ 3333mhz ram > 2nd place 4.3ghz cpu w/3000mhz ram

https://hwbot.org/submission/4174239_duplicity_xtu_core_i7_6820hk_1485_marks
Vs
https://hwbot.org/submission/3176190_alexy_xtu_core_i7_6820hk_1481_marks/

 

Hello again guys.

I need your opinion on getting an external monitor with Freesync for my GT83 7RF.
Since there are more and more monitors compatiable with nvidia GPUs that have Freesync, I started to think about getting an external monitor for when I'm at home. My question is, just to be sure I won't waste my money, will it even make any difference if I plug a monitor via HDMI port?

Thanks in advance for answers

 

Not 100% sure but Afaik both ports go directly to the GPU. I haven't gotten to play around super much with freesync monitors since Nvidia started supporting them.

Let us know if you pull the trigger I'm sure all of us want to know how it works.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk

 

HDMI is limited to 60hz refresh rate. If you were just going to do 60hz on your external monitor, then hdmi is fine. If you are looking to go higher than 60 hz refresh rate on the external monitor, then I would use the mDP or TB3 port since they offer more throughput. Also, the laptop display gains the ability to use g-sync compatible if your external monitor is also g-sync compatible and connected via mDP. I'm not sure why it works that way or how it works but its nice having g-sync.

 

Anyone here undervolt their gtx 1070s/1080s to lower heat/avoid hitting power limits/sync limits and to get a bit more of a gpu memory overclock? Curious how high the memory go when the cards are undervolted to .850v and 20watts of headroom. Currently running the 1070s downclocked to 1645 stock boost with a memory overclock of 400 on each card. Anyone know the general memory OC range for these cards?

 

Wait, so how does that work exactly? I never done that in my life.

I was checking out this monitor , and yes, i wanna go higher than 60hz.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AOC-AG241QX-24-Inch-Monitor-Response/dp/B01LT04C30/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ascsubtag=UUwpUdUnU61508YYm&keywords=AOC+Agon+AG241QX+24"+Gaming+Monitor,+QHD+2560x1440,+G-SYNC+Compatible+Adaptive-Sync,+144Hz,+1ms,+DisplayPort/HDMI/DVI-D/VGA,+QuickSwitch+keypad,+VESA&linkCode=gs3&qid=1560324993&s=computers&sr=1-1-fkmr0

So how would I have to connect it to my mDP? Just by buying 144hz mDP to DP cable?

 

No idea why it works but I'll tell you this. My external monitors are 9.7" retina displays, they weren't advertised to have freesync or adaptive sync or any sort of gsync either. One day nvidia rolled out the g-sync compatible feature and it showed up in nvidia control panel after a geforce driver update. Only shows up when at least one of the retina displays are used via mDP. Works quite well, gives me 144hz gpu frame times/latency(equal to my other Dell g-sync 144hz monitor) when only producing enough frames for 100hz/playing at 100hz.

For that specific monitor, you would need to purchase a DisplayPort to Mini-DisplayPort(mDP) cable in order to run the full refresh rate(unless it comes with the cable). As for the monitor itself, i can't comment on the quality of it and I haven't used a freesync monitor before. If you value refresh rate more than resolution, you could get an Alienware 240hz 1080p monitor w/g-sync that is roughly the same size or bigger for roughly the same price. That is only if you have a pair of GTX 1080s though, If you have a pair of GTX 1070s i'd stick with 144hz 2560x1440p. Another option for dual 1070s and 1080s is an ultrawide 3440x1440p @100hz. I do recommend getting a g-sync monitor instead of a free sync monitor as the laptop uses nvidia's gpus. I can't imagine free sync working better with their products than their own solution, ya know?

On a somewhat related note, Are you aware the 18.4" displays on these laptops are overclockable? They are 60hz stock and go up to 100hz easily. Pretty damn smooth.

 

Yeah, I'm aware that this monitor has a freesync only but since nvidia is supporting it with their gpus from this year, I'd like to give it a go. The difference in prices are still pretty high between g-sync and freesync tho, at least in GBP.

I didn't really know that I can overclock my display. Wasn't really messing arround that much in nvidia control panel. Do I do this just by creating 1920x1080 100hz resolution in it?

 

Correct.
-Go into NCP
-choose create custom resolution
-check the box enable resolutions not supported(or something of that nature)
-then click create
-An options menu opens, Replace 60 with 100 where it shows refresh rate(Hz)(top left area of the menu).
-Click test.
-if it is stable, the monitor will do its flicker thing and ncp will tell you it is stable. Save it. You'll now have the option to use it. Switch to 100hz and put v-sync on and head on over to vsynctester.com and/or testufo.com to use their stability tests. If it passes these tests, take it for a test drive gaming for a few hours. Look to see if the graphics artifact or glitch at all . If they do not, you are stable. If they artifact/glitch, try dialing down from 100hz to 90hz and re-test entirely.
-If it does not pass the initial ncp test@100hz, your monitor will hang black and you'll have to reset using the power button. If this is the case, restart, go back in to create a new custom resolution but try dialing it down to 90hz and test again.
-If your monitor hangs, it means you've gone too far and you need to go lower. When lowering, Try using increments of 5 or 10. If your monitor passes the test, you can try going further by increments of 5 or 10 until you do hang and then dial it back. Most users get around 100hz total.

Games start to get pretty smooth @90hz and up.

 

Anyone know the CFM rating for the fans in this machine?

Thanks in advance!

 

On both my MSI 1070s I could get +675 on the memory and max 2050mhz limited to 1.013V with 170W power limit. They were in an older Clevo chassis but that shouldn't matter

 

Man, thanks for that advice. I tested this on a lot of games. Tried that at 100hz like you said first. In some games it was stable but it some it just wasn't (Like you said, screen blackouts, random crashes) I'm playing on 90hz now, and oh my God... that difference is amazing. Thank you!

I'm prolly gonna buy that monitor I was talking about later just so I can hide my laptop under a desk (so I don't have to hear those vents running ) and will see how this goes. Don't worry I'll make sure the laptop has good airflow.

 

Hi again,

Have you guys ever experianced any coil whine coming from your laptops?



I've recorded this vid in a pretty ghetto way but it's enough to hear that annoying sound.

So I seriously have no idea where is this sound coming from. It happens only while system is running in normal mode (didn't hear it in safe mode or bios) and it does not matter if my laptop is under load or not. Seems like you can hear it more when there is sound comming from the speakers like I showed on the vid. Also, the weird thing is that it's happening randomly, sometimes it's less noticable and on the other occasions it's unbearable.

I tired to dissconnect spkr1 cable just under the sliding cover to see if it was the speakers, tested it and the whine was still there, same with HDD and blu-ray. I also tried disabling speakers in windows and installing different drivers witheout any success.

I thought I ask you guys if you know what is causing that sound even tho this issue has been happening from a long time. It doesn't really bother me as soon as I start to play games cause I just can't hear it then.

Would appreciate any help, thanks

 

A little bit. And it seems to be an issue all over the 10 series GPU's. So it is most likely from that.

Aside from being annoying I don't think it can cause any harm for anything.

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