***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

Hmm, weird... I can definetly say it's comming from the middle part, not the sides where GPU's are located

 

Could be the mobo but I dunno.

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When I watercooled my laptop which allowed the GPUs to run ~250W with the fans basically off, the loud buzz that I heard gave me a real brown pants moment. I guess I'd never heard it before because of 60dBa worth of fans going full blast and closed ear headphones.

In my P870's case it was easy to identify as it scales with GPU power draw only, it's faint at ~100W if I put my ear right on the keyboard and becomes louder as power draw increases (I have a mod vbios with adjustable power limit). One of my other laptops has a high pitched buzz only when it's running on battery power.

Technically it's just the inductors vibrating which is what they do, they are just a copper coil encased in resin, there's nothing hi tech about it and the modest loads on inductors in consumer electronics mean failure is basically only ever due to manufacturing defect. People have claimed that adding damping material around the inductor casing helps reduce the noise, I'm going to try adding some hot glue around them to see if that helps when I tear it down soon.

 

Depending on the severity of the buzz, covering / encapsulating the offending coil with non-conductive RTV - you want a "globe" around it - acting as a impediment for vibration as well as deadening / vibration absorbing material, with a spread base to help it stick over time. Usually a clear RTV works, I haven't used this particular one - usually use an industrial opaquely labled 3m product, I don't see it on Amazon - but this looks like it fits the specs:

Clear Electronic Grade Silicone - 2.8 oz Squeeze Tube by ASI
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone/dp/B07MKBBQTC

The specs read as needed, and the comments are good, make sure not to get it on clothes, don't smear it around, and seal the tube well - don't leave the nozzle open to air long or you'll clog it up.
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electr...erType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=1

Another good one for electronics:

Dow Corning 737 Neutral Cure RTV Sealant, Clear, 3 oz. Tube
https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Neutral-Sealant-Clear/dp/B00NKYK4OU

5.0 out of 5 stars the best
April 11, 2018
Verified Purchase
"I use this for almost everything. It's an alcohol cure RTV with both great adhesive properties and good strength and firmness (much better than any caulk you buy at the hardware store). The "neutral cure" bit is about the alcohol cure - rather than acetic acid cure - acetic acid is an etchant for solder, so since this doesn't have that, it's OK to use on electronics."

This one is also supposed to be non-corrosive and good up to 450F/232C in operation.

Loctite Superflex RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant 80ml Clear
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Sealant-80mL-Tube-Clear/dp/B0032UW8IW

Be generous with the coverage, use a pointy tool / spatula to push the material into the coil, make sure to cover it completely with a thick (2mm-3mm at least) shell around it and connect through inside the coil to the board to help mute / absorb vibrations.

And, let it cure for at least 24 hours, don't power it up, certainly not to high power levels for a couple of days, so that it doesn't break free of the material with vibrations too soon.

I wouldn't do a bunch of them at once, start with the worst offender / vibration coil and see how it works for you. Maybe practice with the material on something else before applying it to the laptop coil the first time too.

Please let us know how it works out.

 

Automotive liquid gasket, thanks for that idea. I have a tube of black permatex in the garage. The MSDS says it is "oxime silicone" which is neutral cure - I will give it a go on the busted 580M I abuse for heatsink mods and soldering alignment

 

Cool, looks good

Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
SKU: 82180 Category: Ultra Series Gasket Makers
OEM specified. For dealership warranty requirements, Ultra Black® ensures extended drivetrain warranty compliance. Fast-curing formula. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets. Retains high flexibility, oil resistant properties through use of a patented adhesion system. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...m-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/

I like to use the clear silicone made for use with electronics (solder safe) so I can see the component inside - maybe even still read markings - and to see the thickness of the covering. But, if you've got a good substitute on hand, why not give it a try.

 

Sorry, I couldn't hear it over my own fan noise mwahahaha

 

So now my gt83vr is bricked, stuck at MSI logo. Can anyone give me a hand trying to reflash the bios with a programmer and aligator clip or let me know if you have any experience fixing this with USB drive, etc? I cannot consistently boot to windows, happens once in a blue moon and when it does it works fine until it needs a reboot. Right now its just msi logo and no BIOS access with delete key. See post over here http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/gt83vr-sli-1070-boot-stay-at-msi-logo.829264/#post-10928964

 

That should be a boot drive issue. Try reinstalling the OS if you can (assuming you have backups), otherwise remove all drives and plug in just one HDD or SSD to verify if you can install a fresh OS on it.

 

Yeah I would have agreed except shouldn’t I be able to access the bios if that were the case? Also I removed all drives and still cannot access the bios so I cannot do a clean os install. It sounded a lot like the other thread you were on where it was a bios corruption. I’ve tried booting with just a single stick of ram with no drives etc and still the same. Pressing delete does nothing when booting.

Could really use some help with this machine. Appreciate the responses


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Were there any changes to the overclocking settings in the BIOS?

 

Probably but not sure. It was running fine for 2 years. And it will very infrequently boot all the way into windows and work fine. Had it plugged in and running last time for a month or more. Not sure why I can’t get into the bios


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Have you removed the main battery and bios backup battery for 1hr+ to clear bios settings

 

Yeah, I would go with clearing CMOS and see if it helps? If not then we may have a RMA situation.

 

I did remove the cmos battery but not the main battery and that didn’t change. The machine is out of warranty so trying to avoid rma. Do you think I could flash the bios with a chip programmer and alligator clip? Any idea where to get the full bios bin file and not just the update?


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Remove *all* batteries, press power button for 30 sec to ground everything, leave it for an hour. Settings in the nvram getting corrupted is more likely than the main bios eeprom. Test the simple things first!

Or there may be something model specific like a jumper I don't have a GT83 and it's been a while since I had an MSI.

 

You will need to disconnect both CMOS & main battery to discharge the CMOS.

 

Same as before. Removed cmos and main battery for an hour and then held power button for 50 seconds. Stuck at MSI logo with no love for del key. Can’t get into bios


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Well rebooted one more time and now it’s doing a recovery format. Wow!


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Now the recovery partition failed and says reboot. If I pull the drive I still cannot get into the bios. Any suggestions? How can I boot to the usb recovery device I made


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So was finally able to get into the bios on the next reboot by spamming delete key. Currently doing usb recovery. Got damn! Will keep you posted. Appreciate the help y’all.


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This machine is killing me. Reinstalled windows all was good. Rebooted came right back no issues. Powered down, disconnected the power supply and replaced the bottom case shell and now it won’t boot again. Stuck at msi logo all over agin. About to start pulling out my hair


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Now I’m back to where I was before. The pulling of the batteries and then restarting does the three reboot no video and then full boot to msi logo still working but I cannot get into the bios no matter what.

Why would I not be able to get into the bios?


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I think you may need a full reflash of BIOS, check with Svet at MSI forum to see if he can do this for you or not. If not then a RMA may be needed.

 

Sent him a pm and posted in the forum there. Thanks!

Will they still rma outside warranty? Is there a place to get a new motherboard? Why would the bios work sometimes but not consistently?


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If you have to go with the route of RMA, MSI will provide services for you if they still have the board available which they should.
Hopefully you won't have to go with that route since it may cost you a few hundreds but again you shouldn't have any issues receiving an out of warranty RMA service from them.

 

Trust SVET.
He knows more about MSI laptops than anyone here except Prema, and even Prema doesn't like MSI's cancer firmware.

 

I believe it. After this experience I switched to Asus ROG gx531gx and love it. Just want to get this gt83 running so I can sell it.


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Try to fully reflash your bios .. I think you won't need programmer to do it .. just ask svet on msi forums to do that and he is very clever and can flash your bios and ec completely without programmer


Also one question .. where is the cmos battery in this laptop ? I searched for it a lot and can't find it and used the power button to reset cmos

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Cmos is under the top panel near the hard drives.

Not sure I can flash the bios without a chip programmer since I can’t boot into the bios consistently.


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Looking to swap out the old thermal pads on the vrms etc on the mobo. Anyone know which thickness fujipoly thermal pads I should be getting?

 

My reply is about MSI GT83VR and the CYBERPOWER Fangbook 4 Extreme and if they are similar or not

I know it's very late reply but I can't see any one confirm if they are exactly the same ...

For me I found that they are the same in everything except bios and ec rom which is very very old and no updates or support for that all from cyberpower

Even you can't flash the official bios from msi gt83 although they are identical so you have to stay on this very old bios and ec

So I tried to unlock bios region as described in gt73vr section and already done successfully but the same problem still here that no way to flash it

Then I tried to use dmi editor to add the product name as msi gt83vr titan sli and this helped me to be able to install nahimic vr and msi true colour from msi site and some settings appeared in msi dragon center but still can't see shift modes in msi dragon center and can't use fn +f7 to use it and still can't flash the bios but remains some success at least for being able to install all msi apps

And the last resort was using direct programmer to bios chip but I don't want to use it and can't flash the bios because it always showing me error about rom I'd is different so I bypassed it with some commands but always showing secure flash rom verify fail

Then I messaged svet about it and he told me that it can't be done but we can try ...
He started working on it and used his very special tools and just in one day we were able to flash the bios and he unlocked it also .. he is just genius and his tools and work is very special as he managed to flash it as if we are using programmer without the need to use any hardware ..

But still we have old ec and also can't flash it as it will always give warning about incorrect product id although my device is showing as MSI GT83VR 7RF Titan SLI

so again asked svet about it but he told me that if there will be some problems if they are not identical and may be can't even bypassed from the first time and we should try to find how to do it but I was very sure that they are the same and i asked him to try
And as always he was able to bypass it even from the first try

So now I have both the latest bios and ec from msi site and now I can use it as normal msi gt83vr 7rf with all msi apps but only last small step to get every thing working ..
After flashing latest bios we have to use the dmi editor again to change product ne to GT83VR 7RF Titan SLI and make sure to use the name correctly and then you will be able to get all msi apps and shift modes will appear in msi dragon center and you can use all fn keys dedicated to msi gt83 as fn +f7 to change shift modes and all other functions and also now I can see my keyborad options in the steelseries application

So this was success and now I'm really enjoying it again as it has all the latest bios and ec updates and can flash them normally without any need to bypass again as I tried the latest ec again from msi site and bios and they just flashed normally without single problem

But small trick to be able to use dmi editor I tried it and the program wasn't working at all till I found that it can start normally and change any value if we changed boot mode to uefi+CSM not uefi only and after changing what we need we can normally change it back it normal uefi mode

Last thing that my laptop has i7-7820hk with dual nvidia gtx 1080 sli

Stock bios was E1815ICP.306
Stock EC was 1815ECP1.103

Now I have BIOS E1815IMS.312
And latest ec 1815EMS1.108

Here is pics

1 - Here I was trying to flash it normally without any edit which caused the error about rom id and wrong image format when trying to flash from the bios itself




2 - Then I tried to unlock bios region as described in gt73 section and found the lock and removed it but still showing errors even I removed the capsule header and another error appeared as failed to load memory as shown in the 3rd pic






4 - and here pic showing old bios and old ec which is from 2016 .. very very old



5 - and here finally after updating to the latest bios and ec from msi site 2018









6 - and lastly here is msi dragon center before and after showing shift mode and also steelseries finally recognized my keyboard




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I hope our braintrust can help me.
GT83VR 6RF:
(screenshots at the end)

I have recently a few issues with my system:
a) Fan noise
one of the fans makes a noise (left side of the device when typing) - sounds a little "grindy" - it's not extremely loud though. It was actually louder a few weeks ago. Where do I find replacement fans? Typically it is a gear or something else that is causing problems.

Or where to find a shop that can replace a fan easily. I could go to places in north eastern Florida or driveable from Connecticut. I do not want to send the device in if avoidable.


b) EDIT: Battery not working but showing 92% charge - found EC RESET PIN HOLE - THIS FIXED IT
Original text below - I found the EC reset pin hole, hah - needed a long needle for that. And due to the location I always thought it was somehow an eject pin for the Bluray drive.
Original text: Battery shows as 92% charged when plugged in, device will immediately be off when power is disrupted. MSI Battery Calibration will result in system turning off (no power) immediately when entering "discharging" mode. Anything I can do in BIOS or settings or elsewhere to better diagnose? I updated the EC firmware to the latest published by MSI. Or is the battery likely "toast" - or may it be a controller/sensor that's acting out?

c) newer NVMe in RAID question
I upgraded the SSDs to 970 EVOs - in RAID 0... the verdict seems to be split as to performance of the software RAID. The benchmarks do not look great in some metrics, others are OK.
If I do not want to run them in RAID anymore, what is the setting to get NVME access - because it seems that the options in the BIOS are only RAID or AHCI - and we do not want AHCI, I assume.
Would you still run RAID with modern SSDs (where the performance baseline seem to have gotten a lot faster)? Or will the RAID actually slow down some faster SSDs due to its overhead?

Thanks a lot,
your help and guidance is appreciated.

Battery:

Current dragon settings:

 

Hey what's the best drivers for this laptop I've had a few weird issues since I've had it. And I'm pretty sure it is software utilities problems

 

What is the OEM RAM in GT83?

And what is the recommended brand for this device? I currently have 2x8GB OEM RAM and would like to expand it to 32GB.

 

I found one locally that is selling one sub $1k, not sure if that is a good deal? I had an Alienware 17 R4 6700hq / gtx 1070 / QHD 120hz gsync which I liked but sold it to buy an XPS 15 4k touchscreen for my wife.

1. How does 6920hq compare with the current 8/9th gen 6 cores?

2. How well does the 1080 sli work? Does it do better on dedicated display 4k resolution? Is it true that raising the mxm 1080’s tdp can improve performance almost rtx 2080 like?

3. Can the screen panel be upgraded?

 

You can't upgrade screen. SLI is dead technology. 4 cores is entry level pc in 2020, you will struggle to play latest games.

 

I near max everything with my 1070, SLI might be choppy though.

 

This is a really old reply but it may help someone else in the future. I had this happen twice to my GT83VR 6RE. Both times were under warranty.

First time: I sent it to MSI, at my cost of shipping one way to them, they covered the shipping back.Returned with a new mobo.

Second time: I purchased the tools to reprogram it and I couldn't manage to get it to work. I called MSi for an RMA and they they covered shipping both ways, knowing I tired to reprogrammed the BIOS. Now, my screen was cracked in the delivery process, with the laptop in a Pelican case. FedEx really scratched the hell out of my case and that makes me wonder if they treated it badly just because of being in an expensive case. MSi didn't try and file a claim, which pissed me off. Needless to say, I had to source a panel off ebay.

 

If anyone is willing to sell a gtx 1080 mxm from their machine please let me know, I need one to test my GT83's lol. I'd be more than willing to a decent amount for one, thanks.

 

wanted to toss out that I have a Eurocom 780W adapter with the MSI plug if anybody is intersetd in a purchase

 

a little bit yea.

 

Hi all! Should i switch off sli if i didnt play super demanding titles to prolong life of gpu , or it doesnt matter sli or nonsli?
Did constant switch-on sli shortnen lifespan of gpus?

 

The card is physically powered whenever it's in the slot. If you're not going to have sli enabled you may as well remove and store it as a backup to preserve its life.

Thermal pads drying out and shrinking is the main danger to watch for. Core paste dying causes high temp readings and fans to go nuts which is noticeable. While they have a higher short term tolerance to temperature than silicon, heating FETs in vrms is a positive feedback loop and they can cook silently without symptoms right up to when they kaboom.

 

Hi again! what is the name of this microscheme? I know that it is not a part of a motherboard. I want to replace mine but i need to know what is name and does one from gt 80 fit for gt 83

Is this all in one panel or is this 2 separate? Thanks in advance!

 

Why do you want to replace it?
If its a broken USB or audio jack, those can be replaced, if you know how to solder, or know someone that does.
But you still need to find the exact USB ports used, or the jack ports, so yeah, might be easier to replace the sub-board, I cant find much info on the internet, might be easier to take your laptop apart and see what is the part number to search for.

 

If you are replacing the same type of connector then it's fine, but you can't really replace the logic board with something else as that may not be of the same design, isn't it?

 

Please just tell me how this microschemes named>=? Its USB port? Or Minijack port? WHAT is name of the part which consist of this jacks and USB ??? Sub board? or how?

 

SO it calls logic board or sub board? What is the name of it? not of the jack itself! Of the stuff which contain all this (usb and jack)

 

i need to buy this whole microscheme but i dont know its whole name