***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

This is internal info within MSI and not many people would have that information handy. If you have the item on hand then you can actually inspect the part number located on the board itself.

 

If someone know i would be grateful

 

Its a sub-board, but it is called MS-something, without looking into the actual board inside the laptop its almost impossible to find any info about MSI laptop parts on the internet.
There is also only one guy selling a couple parts of a GT83VR, so dont expect to find lots of used parts for MSI on eBay or even on Aliexpress, much less of that model.

EDIT:


Take a look at that video, those USB and audio ports are bolted together with the keyboard, at least bolted, with some bad luck its all the same pcb and you need a new keyboard assembly..

 

I am trying to update the VBIOS to the 1080, please look into this thread https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/i-need-help-flashing-new-vbios-mobile-1080.266776/


any one manage to update the old vbiod 86.04.31.00.03

There is a newer one with the same ID 86.04.39.00.00 https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/216837/216837

and when I compared MSI vbios with the mentioned above, they were almost identical but when I flashed one card, both cards fail to load in windows so i restored the old vbios and they worked again,

it seems no one has experiences flashing vbios for laptops,

anyone can help or share experiences with the 1080s mobile for MSI GT83vr

 

All these professional posts, and no one tried before to update the vbios for 1080?

There was a post before about 1070,

When I compared these 2 vbios https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/197477/197477 and https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/216837/216837 using winhex, I found out that they are almost identical, only some few different bits, and sometimes they differ by shifting and not the whole block,

But when I flashed this newer vbios 86.04.39.00.00 on only one card, both cards fail to load, and in the device manager said unable to load, and even GPU-z couldn't read the vbios for the new flashed card, I didn't make more observations cause i panicked and restored the old vbios immediately, and both cards worked again.

Anyone has a clue why? if the cards are not connected to any ports, and they can work separately, then why both cards load to fail when I only flashed one card?

 

"New" doesn't mean better, given that it most likelly comes from a mini itx form factor desktop, its expected that SLI is disabled and maybe some reporting over SMBus as well, thats why it doesn't work.

 

although it is from a mini desktop, but the not only the vbios files are almost identical, even the card almost identical, every chip in the same place as mine, and even the vbios is in the same place as my card except it is much bigger (same size though 1MB)

https://www.tweaktown.com/image.php...mini-gtx1080-intel-z370-sffpc-review_full.jpg

New in this case I assumed it is much better, cause it is modified, the build date is almost the same (both 2016) but this new one was modifed in 2017 and has a higher version number 39 instead of 31,

So I guess, there is no working newer vbios for the MSI 1080 mobile

 

Its almost identical because its the same image that is being used in the techpowerup website.
The VBIOS will only be better if it has higher TDP, if not, TDP mod your and flash it with an external programmer.

The VBIOS has customisation, the fixes are all done on the driver side.

 

VBIOS can contain fixes, Nvidia released before vbios (firmware) update to fix HDMI issue,


And no, all other vbios start with different bits and even blocks, I checked them all

 

But you need that your laptop OEM to release those specific VBIOS, you can't use other VBIOS and expect everything to work, or to work at all. Thats whats I'm trying to say.

 

I know that, of course if I found vbios released by MSI with same ID and subsystem ID I would not hesitate to flash both cards,

Usually bios and vbios are general (generic), they can control different boards, but I guess not in this case,

Thanks for the reply

 

The newer version of VBIOS has different device ID so that could indicate different component used on the card such as VRAM.
Device Id: 10DE 1BA0

 

Both cards has the same ID 0x10DE 0x1BA0

MSI card:

Code:

Sign-On Message       : GP104 E2915 SKU 10 VGA BIOS
Build GUID            : 00000000000000000000000000000000
IFR Subsystem ID      : 1462-11FF
Subsystem Vendor ID   : 0x1462
Subsystem ID          : 0x11FF
Version               : 86.04.31.00.03
Image Hash            : 89CF095620DCC0F53EFDA29EFD28E80E
Product Name          : GP104 Board
Device Name(s)        : GeForce GTX 1080
Board ID              : 0xED0E
Vendor ID             : 0x10DE
Device ID             : 0x1BA0
Hierarchy ID          : Normal Board
Chip SKU              : 750-0
Project               : 2915-0010
Build Date            : 07/22/16
Modification Date     : 07/25/16
UEFI Version          : 0x30003
UEFI Variant ID       : 0x0000000000000007 ( GP1xx )
UEFI Signer(s)        : Microsoft Corporation UEFI CA 2011
XUSB-FW Version ID    : N/A
XUSB-FW Build Time    : N/A
InfoROM Version       : G001.0000.01.03
InfoROM Backup        : Not Present
License Placeholder   : Not Present
GPU Mode              : N/A

Asrock Card:

Code:

Sign-On Message       : GP104 E2915 SKU 10 VGA BIOS
Build GUID            : 00000000000000000000000000000000
IFR Subsystem ID      : 1CF6-1BA0
Subsystem Vendor ID   : 0x1CF6
Subsystem ID          : 0x1BA0
Version               : 86.04.39.00.00
Image Hash            : 7CD2104D306DE5060EC11C1BE65D64B4
Product Name          : GP104 Board
Device Name(s)        : GeForce GTX 1080
Board ID              : 0xED0E
Vendor ID             : 0x10DE
Device ID             : 0x1BA0
Hierarchy ID          : Normal Board
Chip SKU              : 750-0
Project               : 2915-0010
Build Date            : 08/05/16
Modification Date     : 08/23/17
UEFI Version          : 0x30004
UEFI Variant ID       : 0x0000000000000007 ( GP1xx )
UEFI Signer(s)        : Microsoft Corporation UEFI CA 2011
XUSB-FW Version ID    : N/A
XUSB-FW Build Time    : N/A
InfoROM Version       : G001.0000.01.03
InfoROM Backup        : Not Present
License Placeholder   : Not Present
GPU Mode              : N/A

I marked in red the differences, The hash has to be different so I marked it in blue.

OK, colors won't work with code, the two vbios differs only with these:
IFR Subsystem ID
Subsystem Vendor ID
Subsystem ID
Version
Image Hash
Build Date
Modification Date
UEFI Version

And the subsystem usually refer to the manufacture

 

My bad, I meant to say the subsystem ID. Are you able to compare the VRAM since you have both cards?

 

What do you mean compare VRAM?

 

Video memory IC, can you examine them with your eyes to see if they are identical?

 

Do you mean the Asrock and the MSI? or both my MSI

If you mean the Asrock then I don't have the card, I have only seen the picture, and they look almost identical, few differences though.

But both my Cards are exactly the same

 

See if you can take clear pictures of both memory cards' memory chips when you can so we can help to identify.

 

Sure thing, I will try as soon as I can,

First I have to buy thermal paste

 

Anyone who has an MSI GT83VR with a GTX 1080 could you please upload a copy of your vbios please. I need an original one, not taken from techpowerup but actually from a gt83vr. I'm currently doing a mod in which the card can be used inside a clevo p775dm3.

Thanks, I'd really appreciate it

 

If you want I can upload mine but it the same as this https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/197477/197477

 

No worries mate, it was a very specific vbios, I extracted it from a broken clevo 1080 which had the same vram chips. Apparently there are two variants of gddr5x Gtx 1080 mxm. I have the uncommon version but it isn’t impossible to find

 

my killer networking adapter dissapeared, does anyone know if there is a whitelist to replace from or is it a "if it fits it sits" situation?

A lot of people i looked at are going with intel AX200 chips.

 

Hey all. Recently got my hands on GT83 and I hadn't realized that the keyboard used the Cherry Silver switches instead of the brown switches.

Does anyone know if it's possible to exchange switches on this keyboard? I don't want to start pulling if they are soldiered on . . .

 

I'm not sure you can. like, i think its it's own board but they'd probably be soldered down.

 

Darn. Let's hope someone else knows otherwise. This keyboard is amazingly fast but just a bit too fast, I keep making mistakes. It's like I've found new shoes that let me run 20 percent faster but make me trip twice as often.

I found this thread but don't know how to get in touch with the OP to ask if was able to replace just one switch.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...y-mx-key-switch-replacement-need-help.830341/

 

They are soldered, so you need to remove the top, unscrew the metal backing plate that holds the keyboard PCB and then you need to desolder the current switches and solder new ones.

 

https://www.laptopmain.com/msi-gt83vr-titan-disassembly-and-ram-hdd-ssd-upgrade-guide/

I found this tear down.

 

Thanks to you both! Very helpful. Darn.

Once the warranty runs out I'll see if I can find a GT80 keyboard to swap out.

 

No problem, I'd also reccomend pulling the killer 1535 while your in there. I got an AX200 lined up ready to see how it works.

 

guys, I need to change the LCD, does anyone know how to do it easily? Would it be enough to remove front bezel, remove screws, take out the LCD, remove flex cable from its back and simply install the new LCD? Or would it require extensive disassembly of the chassis etc?

 

If I recall right you basically gotta pull the full thing apart, I was in there trying to replace my network card and wasnt able to do so unless I pulled the whole thing open.

 

I am also considering changing the LCD of my GT83VR 6RE, but I am not sure which LCD model to look for. Obviously, I got this information from the OP, and I confirmed that my monitor ID is the same indeed (Samsung 184HL (Dell: XJY7J), Monitor ID: SDC4C48), but there seem to be two similar models: https://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21285,38350. The only difference is that the M01 has 'hard coating (3H)' and 'antiglare (haze 25%)' instead of 1%. I guess this is the one that I need (its ID is also exactly the same—SDC4C48, but the other screen doesn't have an ID, so I am not sure if they share the same one or not).

Edit: Both are listed as 'matte', so this doesn't help me.

 

It has been confirmed that the right model is LTM184HL01-M01 ( https://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=38350) indeed. Special thanks to @sportsurgeon.

 

A new vbios from MSI with the same ID, newer date, but older version https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/226986/226986

I tried to flash but it failed, restored the old vbios successfully

 

OK guys, I completed my LCD replacement, it is a fairly straightforward process, you start removing the front bezel from one of the lower corners and work your way around. When you remove the screws (should be 8-10 of them) you fold down the LCD like you were closing the lid. Then you see the adhesive on the connector, be very careful as it is a rather strong tape and pulling too hard can damage the connector. Some people advise to cut the tape instead of peeling it off in this step. Then you slide out the connector (not upwards but along the plane of the LCD), then put in new LCD, install the connector and do everything backwards, don't forget to put new tape on the connector. Well, this is it. The model number of the LCD is LTM184HL01-M01. The last M01 part tells you it is a matte screen, I bought the C01 version which is glossy and I like it better, more vibrant colors. You might see more reflections if you work outdoors etc though.

I am also wondering if it would be possible to upgrade our screens to 4k, I could only locate one model with 18.4" size and UHD resolution, NV184QUM-N21. However the datasheet tells me the pinout is different sadly. Just let me know if you have more information on this matter.

Cheers.

 

Sup guyz. Will HP Zbook RTX Quadro 5000 mxm (same format as 1080) works ? I would ike to sell my both 1080 and buy that card. It would gave a nice performance boost...

 

I acknowledge that this is a long shot, given that your post is from 2018, but could you give me any information regarding the SSD heatsinks? If not the exact model, then at least the dimensions?

Also, if anyone else has any experience with installing SSD heatsinks on this model, please, let me know. Or perhaps it would be better to use thermal pads?

Thank you!

 

You would have to use thermal pads in any scenario unless you plan to use thermal paste, though not sure how the mileage would be in that scenario.

 

Sorry, I didn't express myself clearly. There should be thermal pads anyway (see 0:10 ), but I wonder if these would be enough if I install a newer SSD that runs hotter (according to what I've read).

I was thinking of buying a 1 TB Samsung 980 Pro. It won't run at its full potential, but I could stick it in a new laptop/PC in a couple of years. I currently have 2x 128 GB SSDs in RAID 0, so I will just delete the RAID and move one of them to the empty slot (where it should still work, but at lower speeds). Does this sound like a good idea?

 

TLDR; Device stuck at boot logo screen for minutes, hours, or days - cause/resolution!
By now quite some of you may have had that problem - it also affects sister series, predecessors and so on.
I got it fixed: Remove Sabrent DAC board

Longer:
Hi y'all - I had increasingly worsening "stuck at boot issues". I believe I posted about it before.
Well-meaning folks talked about drivers, about firmware, about BIOS, about resetting this or resetting that. Some things (such as a battery reset) sometimes worked, but it is not clear if it was simply due to manipulating the device or what it was.
I did all permutations - with SSDs, without SSDs, booting from USB drive, no drives present whatsoever... to rule out this and see if I can get to BIOS then consistently- nope.

It was an internal component the HiFI Add-On Board..

So here it is: The SABRENT DAC board MS-18142 is failing - or the component that communicates with it.
I removed it, and as soon as I did the device is immediately booting up.
I am contemplating ordering a replacement board, but not sure if it is not on the board but in the component that communicates with the board for example or even the connector, then this would be futile

It reminded me of problems I have seen in Onkyo receivers a few years back. Some soldering of the "Faroudja chip" was done mediocre and over time with operational heat, the connections got severed.
In our case it could also be something else - but since it still boots up after a longer wait, it may not even be a completely blown component but may have to do with thermals/mechanics or some disintegrating internal part.

To remove:
See this video at

14:30
AND
16:22

 

I’m glad you managed to figure out the solution, me and a few of my suppliers have known of this audio DAC going bad. People list the laptop up for sale as they have no clue why it hangs. Long story short the relay on the dac goes bad, you should hear a small ‘click’ noise when the laptop turns on, I’ve noticed some models do it and some don’t. Try replacing the relay and insert the dac back onto the motherboard. I wish MSI didn’t use cheap components on the DAC but I’d rather this failed instead of the whole motherboard!

 

Yes, I can confirm the "click" when it finally boots with the board present.

Any pointers as to replacing the relay? With regular home-soldering equipment I am probably at a loss there. SMD soldering? Cannot access the soldering connection.

 

Wow! My laptop started getting stuck at boot a few months ago. It only happens when it has been off for a longer period of time, say, overnight. I thought it was due to me performing literally hundreds of tests (every single one ended up in an unexpected restart) in a matter of weeks, sometimes crashing the laptop over 50 times a day. Naturally, I thought that I had broken the Windows, which might very well be the case; I plan to reinstall in April/May, so I'll let you know, but it could be what you are saying as well!

How can I be sure that this is what I am experiencing as well (without taking my laptop apart)? Is it completely safe to remove this component? Have you found a replacement yet? Thank you very much for sharing this information!

 

I shared it after researching for a few months starting in 2019, then it got so bad in early 2020 that I could not even use it anymore at one point due to the reboots sometimes taking days. And yes it now also sometimes happened on a "warm reboot" (not initially). Then I gave up for a while and bought something else (Dell Outlet Precision 7740 or now 7750 are awesome devices and you can find a real bargain there sometimes with - 3 years of warranty compared to 90 days when you buy MSI often). Since I discovered Dell messed up the wired LAN pins on my device (one is bent) and only get 100MBit not 1GBe, I have the device repaired right now. So I went back to my MSI that I do love.

In my "research" I found a lot of red herrings and people giving typical advice - from reinstalling Windows, to getting new SSDs, to resetting the BIOS or the EC controller... but none seemed to result in successful long term resolution. Often it seemed people just gave up trying.

What pushed me finally over the edge was this Reddit post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops/comments/fuua2f/so_the_curse_finally_got_me_stuck_at_msi_logo/

What type of tests are you doing that will force the laptop to restart? Overclocking? Because short of that I do not know what would impress it that much to crash.

As to diagnosing/being sure/reinstalling Windows - you cannot be 100% sure but a few simple questions. When it happens, can you enter BIOS immediately or ONLY in the moment it would only the finally boot? If you cannot even enter BIOS, then your Windows installation is innocent. Does it happen when you remove your SSD and want to boot from USB for example?
And then:
Do you hear a "click" when it finally boots?
If you are familiar / comfortable with opening your device, removing the Sabre DAC, testing, and reinstalling is not very difficult. The only thing that was annoying for me was that I replaced my battery before and did not secure it as much as initially installed so it may be coming out.
I simply put the device sideways carefully, and tried to boot it up while still open. Of course it is better to properly reassemble it.

In fact since I do not use it as a travel machine anymore (I used to take it to conferences to do my conference talks and demos), I do not even bother screwing it back together, just put the plastic parts on.

 

Thank you for replying.

I have meticulously described my issue here: http://forum.worldoftanks.eu/index.php?/topic/754668-wot-causes-my-laptop-to-restart/. In short, World of Tanks causes my laptop to reboot, and it only happens when I am running it in AC mode. I have absolutely no other issues at all (apart from the slow boot, I guess). I've bought brand new adapters, and I've tried hundreds of solutions, but no other application (game/stress test/benchmark, etc.) causes that. I bought the laptop in September 2016, and I played that game on and off until February 2020, when I took another break. In late September 2020 I upgraded from Win 10 Home to Win 10 Pro (I did a clean install)... And the issue has been going on since then.

Unfortunately, I did not try playing the game prior to the reinstall, so I cannot state with certainty that one of the updates that came out during this 8-month period broke the game, but I suspect that this is the case. Their customer support is horrendous, and it took them 4 months to basically tell me that they wouldn't do anything about it. They are hell-bent on convincing me that the issue lies in my Windows/drivers/hardware, despite the fact that I have performed several clean installs, and I have stress tested practically everything that I can. (Note: I have only used Windows Memory Diagnostic to test my RAM, but I also tested the memory sticks, pair by pair, so I don't really see a reason to run MemTest86 for a few days).

If you have 15 minutes, you could go through the OP and my comments (especially the latest ones), and if you manage to think of a solution, please, let me know. Actually, could this be caused by the faulty component that you are talking about? I guess I should test that as well. Wouldn't it be possible to disable it via the BIOS (without physically removing it)? I am going to tag @Mr. Fox here. We have exchanged well over 50 messages discussing the matter, and he has been extremely patient and helpful! Our conclusion can be summarised as follows: 'there is something going on with the way the game was coded that triggers something in Windows 10 (Pro?); something that causes it to restart—no blue screens of death, no errors; it just reboots'. @Mr. Fox, is there anything you could add (regarding the Sabre DAC board)?

I can enter BIOS, but I am not sure if I can do so immediately. I'll check tomorrow. I have never removed my SSDs, but I plan to buy a brand new one and install Windows 10 Enterprise on it. I hope this will fix the WoT issue as well.

Yes, I am comfortable with opening my device, but I won't be able to do so in the foreseeable future. I will need to dedicate a whole day to the laptop, so I guess I will do everything at the same time (repasting, installing the new SSD, reinstalling Windows, and potentially removing the Sabre DAC board).

Regarding the click when it finally boots, I think that I do hear a click, yes. However, I am usually in the bathroom while it's loading, so I will have to check tomorrow, haha.

As far as the battery is concerned, do you think that this could be the cause of my issue, given that the game runs fine on battery (at low FPS), but restarts as soon as I plug in the device? Also, did you get a genuine replacement?

By the way, the Reddit post that you linked mentions another problem ('it looks like 1070 voltage problem haven't been enough'). I hadn't heard of that one before... Do you have any information about it?

Thank you again!

 

Thank you. Not truly helpful because the issue is unresolved, but certainly tried to be.

I would have given up the idea of playing WoT in a day it two. It would drive me crazy trying to find a solution, but it seems the problem is WoT since the issue is exclusive to the attempted use of it.

 

You have been way more helpful than Wargaming customer support, that's for certain!

Regarding the Sabre DAC board, do you think that there is a way to completely disable it via the BIOS settings? I doubt that mine is faulty, but it could be...

 

Just to understand you correctly: Is it properly REBOOTing (with Windows shutting-down being displayed and so on), Does it crash, and restart. Or does it completely shut off and you then start again?

With up-to-date-drivers on a non-OC-system a game that runs in non-Admin mode should not usually be able to do that absent a HW problem. But on the other hand, cannot rule out a weird interaction between components.
My money is not on the Sabrent DAC board as to the unexpected shutdowns. But if you experience the stuck-for-a-random-while-at-cold-boot issues, then it is worth trying that out.

As for the shutdown while on AC power, if overheating is not an issue, I would look at voltage regulation.
Look at Intel XTU and Intel Performance Maximizer (the latter I did not know it exists until today) - and whatever the tool for the GPU was (I forgot).

To be sure - do you play other games? Other games that are SLI capable and tax the system?

Is World of Tanks even GPU bound? Or is it the CPU that is getting overworked?

As for the RAM, you kinda ruled it out already you said, but if tests reveal nothing, it is sometimes worth trying to just rotate them in the slots in different permutations - to see if the problem then behaves differently.

 

I have no idea. You can use the developer backdoor to see if any option for that is present. I am not a fan of MSI products, so there is a lot I do not know about their proprietary quirks. Maybe @Spartan@HIDevolution or @GenTechPC or @ryzeki know.