[Official] Questions for the MSI Rep! #2

https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GT73VR-7RF-Titan-Pro#down-driver&Win10 64 or from device manufacturer sites as those from MSI are 2016 - 2017. Most of these should work: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-gt75-titan-drivers-8th-gen.800622/

 

Why the MSI True Color doesn't work on my GS65 Stealth Thin 8RF? In the app I choose any of the color modes but nothing happens, no color settings changes... I am on Windows 10 64 Pro. Please help.

 

Did you install the latest version?
http://download.msi.com/uti_exe/nb/_Install TrueColor20190201_2.1.2.0_0x0e1f0e5a.zip

 

Yes I did, but it doesn't work. Tried uninstall and install again, same issue. I click to change the Color mode but nothing happens.

 

What was the last thing you did before this happen? Can you check Event Viewer to see if there's any errors?

 

Hi guys, I'm a owner of a MSI GE73 8RF and would like to know if it's possible to use the notebook without the battery inside ?
I'm always on AC, the deck between and above the function keys and the bottom screen is hot ( my battery is full charge...) and I'm playing with AC plug in.

As i search on net, i saw that MSI change the use of their notebook line, so the battery isn't used while gaming or hard task on AC... Your thoughts ?

Does someone as already try to remove the battery and use the pc ? Will i damage it, will it works ?

Thx .

 

If battery is full and you play from AC then battery produce almost no heat since it is not charging unless your battery is being used together with AC while gaming. Ofcourse you can use laptop without battery however whenever you will want to use it without AC then you will need to replug battery.

 

Many MSI models use battery boost to assist in delivering more power to the GPU / CPU than AC can deliver, you'll see the battery level drop when heavy gaming and it can continue until about 35% charge - the battery level limit minimum to supply battery boost - and then the performance will drop noticeably.

Recently someone posted that they removed the battery because it was failing and while they waited for their replacement battery their gaming performance sucked, once they put the new battery in the performance returned.

Be aware of that possibility, I don't know about your model. Let us know if that's what you see when you disconnect the battery.

BTW, removing the battery to "save it" actually reduces the life as the battery charging manager moderates the battery charge level - reducing it and increasing it randomly over time - to keep the battery fresh and extend it's life. Letting the battery slowly discharge over time - while disconnected - it can discharge too far and go "negative" which damages the battery.

If you leave the battery connected, and plugged in when not using it the battery manager (hardware) will keep the battery in good condition. No matter what you do the lifetime of the battery at best is limited - the chemistry breaks down over time, so it's best to keep it connected and managed to have the best chance of long life.

 

You should just use it as it's designed without worry about every single technicality on the system.
If battery goes out during warranty then you can have MSI to replace it for you anyway. If you take it out you will not only lose performance during gameplay but you will also cause the battery life to reduce if the charge isn't at storage level (30~50%). And Scott is right on this too.

 

Thx guys for answers.

So why it is hot ?

On my pc, when the battery is from 91 to 100% charge, the pc don't charge is until the battery goes to 90%. While i'm gaming, if the battery is 95% or 100%, it never goes down, doesn't move.

In the past MSI used the "NOS" feature : https://www.msi.com/faq/nb-684.html But people were upset about this. From MSI, on newest model, MSI don't use the NOS feature so i don't understand why the deck above the battery (full charge while gaming on AC) is hot ?....

The metal deck above Function keys is hot, really hot, don't know why if the battery isn't used while gaming on AC. I thought, removing it, will bring less temps in the chassis, near the "caloduc". On my model, the AC Adaptor is a 230W, so normally enough for the 8750h and GTX1070 ?

 

You could test unplugging the cable from the battery - leave the battery inside the laptop - make sure your laptop is completely shutdown before opening the laptop to pull the cable, don't leave it in sleep or hibernation.

Then run for a while on AC only, making sure to have all of your AC fittings completely connected solidly. See if the heated area cools down and the heat doesn't come back after a few hours of use.

The characteristics of the battery boost power level depletion depends on the game, as some won't need the boost all of the time during gaming while the power draw is fulfilled adequately by AC power.

Spoiler: Constant discharging / charging while gaming:

There can be times in game play where there is a short non-continuous power draw from the battery to supplement the AC power during gaming power draw peaks, but not so much as to register on the remaining battery level indicator.

If the power draw from the battery is infrequent enough the charging circuit could replace that power in between power draw peaks. After the battery draw at gaming load peaks ends the charging circuit would kick in to replace the power used, also generating heat in that area while charging.

This would continually build up heat in the battery area.

If your laptop has an HDD it could be generating the heat you are feeling through the deck.

Spoiler: HDD heat generation:

Where is the HDD in relation to the battery location? If the HDD is next to the battery, or over/under the battery, and the HDD is remaining spun up - you haven't tuned the power settings to spin down the HDD after a minute or two - then that heat from the spinning HDD could add up while playing - the HDD stays running, I think default is 20 minutes idle before the HDD is spun down.

Check your power plan advanced settings for the HDD spin down, set it to 1 or 2 minutes - if you only have an SSD I keep them powered all the time on AC power - setting to Never for spin down. HDD's are going to park their heads anyway even if still spinning so there will be lag introduced by the HDD head parking settings (you can change those too, which I recommend if you have lag in games when loading during game play) so spinning down the HDD quickly after use might allow for cool down while not interfering with game play.

If there are negative side effects to gaming with the 1 or 2 minute power down setting on the HDD, try adjusting it up until your game use is ok.

The idea behind this is to let the HDD spin down / power off as soon as possible after use to reduce the heat generated by the HDD. Even if the reduced time powered on setting doesn't power down the HDD during the game, it will power down the HDD quicker after the game allowing for more cooling of the HDD between HDD uses, between gaming sessions.

I am assuming you have an SSD as a boot drive and the HDD is only for game or application storage. If you are running only from an HDD then there might not be an optimal setting for powering down your HDD quickly as any access to the software on the HDD will spin it back up and start generating heat again.

I always recommend upgrading the HDD to an SSD large enough to be able to completely remove the HDD from the laptop. HDD's can generate a lot of heat and use a lot of power so it's best to not have one in the laptop.

Disconnecting the internal battery isn't a good idea as AC power isn't necessarily constant.

Spoiler: Recently I experienced a single power supply "failure"

...where the laptop switched to battery mode because one power supply's AC cable had worked it's way out and the laptop sensed that power supply wasn't supplying power so it switched to battery mode. I'm using a GT75 Titan-013 with 2 x 230w PSU's.

Oddly enough there was no strain on that AC cable, or any cable connection in the power feeding from both power supplies, yet that cable popped itself out from the AC connector of the power supply.

For my use there was no data loss or interruption of use, I just noticed that I was running on battery all of a sudden. In your case with the battery disconnected you would have lost all power when that AC cable dropped out and lost your work / data / state of use.

Please let us know how it works out.

 

There's no cable on battery, it is connect with "shaped pin". Will try to remove battery and see...

 

So i removed the battery, the pc boot normally, icon in the notification, is normal, no battery detected. I played Dota 2, and test the temps. On throttlestop, on 2 core, the max is 69, while before i had 74 or 76 on 2 cores max.
I won 5 to 7 degrees on max cores. The deck above the function keys is hot, but a bit less, so it comes from the refection of the top ''caloduc'' inside. The placement of the battery is bad so, cause even the pc doesn't use it while on AC, the battery got temp, hot , reflection from the caloduc, i think this affects the life of the battery too.

I didnd't see for now difference while gaming, pc runs as before... Will see on others games, more demanding as Dota. (Summers here, 25° outside, don't know in my room...)

 

The CPU is quite a ways away from the Battery / Charging circuit and shouldn't affect the CPU temperature while gaming.

The CPU drop in temperature could indicate less performance being used, fewer FPS would drop the load on the CPU / GPU and drop their temperatures.

You should be measuring the FPS before / after battery removal - sorry I didn't mention that specifically before. Does the FPS average go down after removing the battery indicating the battery was providing power for greater performance?

Does the section of the heatpipe nearest the battery get hot? If the heat you are feeling coming from the heatpipe, and with the battery installed is the heat conducting through the battery? Was the battery hot?

Maybe put the battery back in and game for a long while and then quick pop the back off (leave the screws out) and feel to see if the battery is actually getting hot.

The temperature change could be simply less running time - if the laptop was on for a longer time with the battery in it when you finally took the temperature it would be higher than after you removed the battery and then checked the temperature.

Thin laptops store heat - it builds up over time of use because the cooling system can't expel it in continuous use - and the CPU / GPU temps can rise higher doing the same work the longer you use it.

Also time of day - the ambient temperature - can affect readings greatly especially if you measure it around 12pm-3pm vs midnight or in the AM.

If there was no cable to connect the battery, just a clip in contact when the battery is in place, and it's not glued in, that's interesting.

If you are going to run without the battery installed be sure and monitor the level of the battery and leave it in / plugged into AC every 4-6 weeks - maybe check it at 2-3 weeks initially to see what rate it self-discharges.

Heat will kill those lithium-ion batteries. They like to run under 55c, charge under 45c, and 60c or over is bad for the cells. The Asus Zephyrus comes to mind, a bunch of people reported swollen batteries and had to have them replaced.

Tight spaces, thin laptops, and the trend toward stuffing higher and higher performance into thing laptops all add up to a bad environment in which to run Lion batteries. Makers should consider putting the AC power converter / charging and batteries external to the laptop - away from all heat sources.

 

I didn't see a drop in performance , either fps.
I can't tell you if it's the nearest heatpipe to the battery placement who gets hot and gives warm to this area, cause i don't use my laptop open and don't wanna put my fingers onto see how hot it is. : D
Yeah battery in this notebook shouldn't be hot than 60° as mentionned on the back of it.

Battery was 98% before i remove it, will put it back on Saturday 27 Juillet and will report here how much it lost.... Thx for all this discution by the way @hmscott

 

@hmscott hey, today i put it back the battery, i don't know why but before it, i played dota got 69° max on 2 cores, and 2 hours after, i check temps, and got 79° max on 2 cores. Also PKG Power max was a bit higher then usual, from 18~ to 24~... Don't know if it's relate to the battery outside the pc...
In 4 days, battery lost 1% only.

 

I'm going to copy and paste this story here to see if I can't get any headway on anything that isn't just "oh well so sad" from the phone rep I spoke with.

So, back in 2017 I decided to opt into getting the GT83VR through the upgrade program -- 3 Months after getting it I had to RMA the thing for weird 'powering' issues. After I RMA'd it, they diagnosed it as a motherboard issue.. They sent it back and I had to RMA it again when the GPU's wouldn't work properly.. Today my laptop started having powering issues again. I contacted the technical support line and they told me 'Oh well, it's a year out of warranty', after I explained that I've had to RMA this device twice, they said it's too bad and I would need to do everything out of pocket.

In total, I have had 4 RMA's done through MSI.. Once for faulty brackets, another to replace my laptop via the Upgrade Program, and then two more times for the laptop I received in return. For a machine that was roughly $4k I am now stuck going out of pocket for the things I had already replaced because it's 'out of warranty' after having it failed and being out of a machine for a sum total of 2 months in 2 years. This is absolutely ridiculous. I'm just letting other users know, and the service rep who spoke to me was completely unnecessarily callous and disregarding to my issue.. Cold and disinterested and literally said "I don't know why you're surprised, it doesn't matter how much it breaks, your warrant was only for the year after you registered it" with zero interest in making anything about MSI seem inviting. After 3 generations of laptops, this may be the last time I ever mess with an MSI device, and I'll make sure everyone is aware of how terrible this has been for me.

 

Sorry to hear about your experience with your product.
MSI reps don't always come here, therefore it's best to bring it to a supervisor's attention in customer service/technical support division directly from your region.

 

How reliable is the GT75 long term? I am talking like 3-5 years down the line? Will there be issues like mobo/ram/GPU/CPU failures?

 

Who knows? My GT70 is 6 years, the GPU died last year but surfing still with Intel on it.

 

Supposedly, with good care and frequent maintenance it should last a long time.
GPU can be an issue since it's a high performance component.

 

@Kevin@GenTechPC

Is the GT76 gonna be available with a 9700k, 16gb-32gb ram, and a 2070 or 2080 paired with the 240hz 17 inch display as per the product page from you guys?

 

Yes, this is available and currently listed on our website as well, thank you.

 

Hello Kevin!
Will the GS75 I7-8750h with a 2070 maxq get an upgrade to the Vbios?
As i understand it the new version with 17-9850h and 2070 maxq is 90 watt compared to 80 watt on the former version.

 

These are interesting thoughts.

 

There is 90W VBIOS available. However, it needs to be requested through MSI tech support with a valid serial number, and VBIOS binary dump (to validate).

 

Perfect, thank you.
I have been in contact with MSI directly but it has been hard to get answers. This impact which computer I will purchase, since I usually keep them for around 4 years.

 

What LCD display is in the MSI GE75 9SG Raider 283 i7-9750H RTX 2080? From reading reviews and watching videos, there seems to be two displays available for the GE75 which are the Innolux N173HCE-G33 and Chi Mei N173HCE-G33.

 

They are the same company and model.
http://www.innolux.com/Pages/EN/AboutUs/Company_Overview_EN.html

 

Mr MSI rep can I get help on the following plz
https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

 

Hi, im about to purchase a p75 in China. It has 2x512GB NVME. I was wondering if this usually means it shows up as two independent 512GB hard drives or if it's usually some kind of RAID.

 

Have you done BIOS & EC update? Have you tried the new memory module alone one at a time?

 

It should be 2x NVMe 512GB.
https://www.msi.com/Content-creation/P75-Creator-9SX/Specification

 

does anyone know the tdp version of the 2070 max q in the p75 creator?

 

I believe it's 80W but I will have to double check.

 

It seems the GS75 can be flashed with the 90w vbios. Is this doable with the P75 creator and is that an official vbios from MSI?

 

It is possible, but not sure if anyone else had done it here.

 

Hi, i just got the p75 creator and the 2070 MAX Q barely ever breaks 70c. It can handle a lot more than the 80w tdp it is given.

Is there a 90w vbios for the 2070 max Q? Right now im not tapping into the potential power of the card and its disappointing given the great cooling.

 

Congrats on your purchase. You can try to request for the 90W VBIOS via MSI Tech Support.

 

Are HID Evolution, Xotic PC, Gentech authorized retailers or refurb sellers? I’m looking at making a big purchase and need good support along with an authorized retailer. Or should I got to a big box store instead (Frys, Best Buy, Etc.)? The last thing I need is an issue arise and be stuck while MSI and Reseller are pointing fingers at each other...

 

Hello, these are all of the authorized resellers as listed on MSI's website, which includes the three in your question.
https://us.msi.com/wheretobuy/main_us/

 

Touchpad hasn't been working for almost a year on my GT73EVR 7RE and I tried to open a ticket but CHK number was always rejected, I tried again today and it went through but I think my warranty is gone. They let me do the survey with the promise of an extension but then that was nullified after completion.

Feeling very frustrated, not sure why the leds light up but no mouse button or touchpad. Is it possible a cable is broken? Help needed after all $1699 is a lot of money abnd I wont have that to spends for a long time and wanted this to be my mains system for the next 3-4 years.

 

What region are you at? Typical warranty is 2-year so the support should be able to know the remaining duration and if it's out of warranty then if you provide proof of purchase then they can cover warranty based on your purchase date.

 

There are a few ways that the touchpad can be disabled in most laptops. In the BIOS, or as a Function Key - Fn+F3 (check you particular keyboard icons on keys or manual), and as a Windows setting to disable the "built-in pointing" device when a mouse or trackpad is plugged in.
https://www.techwalls.com/disable-msi-touchpad-using-mouse/

They do fail, but quite often it's been disabled elsewhere, it's a good idea to check those first.

This is a good time to plug in your original out of the box OS disk set aside for such debugging, or boot from a Linux USB / CD / DVD to see if the trackpad works when booted on another OS install.

If it still fails continue to pursue the RMA route. Good luck.

 

New member here with a new GE75-655, and am curious if the operating temps I'm experiencing are normal. I bought this laptop to play Destiny 2, and in a normal gaming session I'm seeing the CPU temps hitting the 80's regularly, and I may have seen low 90's at one point. It is enough to make the keyboard quite hot.

I'm guessing it isn't normal, as the performance seems to suffer at those temps. Discouraging, as this laptop shouldn't break a sweat to play Destiny 2 I wouldn't think.

 

Those temps are normal. These CPUs work in the 80s range unless you have very low ambient temps. Check if you are thermally throttling, and I would suggest undervolting to get better consistent performance with lower temps.

Destiny 2 is demanding unless you drop settings and lock framerate at 60. I play it unlocked with some settings down to have high refreshrate, but it also pushes my CPU and GPU hard on its own.

 

Hello I've recently bought MSI gs63vr 7rf and found out that clean install of windows makes it perform better. Is that true and should I do that?

 

All clean install + tweaks/optimizations can definitely help with the responsiveness of your system. Make sure to create the recovery media for your system prior to doing so.

 

Can you give a rough timeline as to when more information will be available on the GE-66/76? Next month? Next quarter? Looking to replace my GT-72 soon.

 

Is there any idea when the MSI Creator 17 will be released? During 2020 at least?