- The Official MSI GT60 & GT70-2OC (770m) Owner's Lounge -

Same Problem here... i´ve buy a MS-16F31 Motherboard and the LAN Port dont accept the MSI Drivers. But i found a driver, this works perfectly under Windows 8.1 Prof.

 

Hi guys.
I would have the opportunity to upgrade my msi ge60 for a new Msi gt70. The seller is offer me two models with 100 usd of difference between them. One model is GT70 2OC i7 4700mq 16 gb ram gtx770M BD combo) and the other one is GT70 895 (I7 4800MQ 8GB RAM GTX 870M dvd combo) 100 bucks more. (I think they both doesnt have msata slots which is so bad for me). So what do you think guys? Is it worth the GT70 895? Or there is no much performance difference between these two models?.

Thanks

 

Hi,

Go for the 860M card one

 

Go with 860M, which has same thermal budget as 870M, therefore 870M will throttle more heavily than 860M.

 

To Anyone interested/having the same problem, I've been able to solve the problem.

Here's my post from the MSi Forums

I'm not able to link to the MSi post right now, looks like they're having some connectivity issue ATM.

Edit: MSi Forum Link

 

Hi,
Can IC dimond carat 7 be used on both cpu and GPu, coz i have spkoen to one of PZc repair guys and theyre like No for Cpu they will use IC diamond But for GPU they will use the block

 

And what is the best method to Apply the paste?
like Pea, X H etc. Please Advice

 

IC diamond can be used on both, a line for the CPU and slightly elongated grain of rice for the GPU (a pea would be too large).

 

and what about the Pads ?will they require replacement

 

and what about the Pads ?will they require replacement

 

Pads can be used until they look physically degraded.

 

Best to use IC diamond on GPU since it runs hotter and IC diamond can help the most.
For CPU, a cheaper thermal compound will do the job, and you do not need to waste IC diamond on it since the CPU doesn't reach that high of temperature.

 

Is that the case when Gentech do pastes? Like IC Diamond for GPU and something else for CPU?

For my unit the GPU is always more than 10C cooler than the CPU.... both during idle and stressed. Wishing my CPU would just be as cool as my GPU.

 

Yes, we do repasting for our customers.
GPU is only stresses during 3D gameplay, under desktop environment then the CPU is used all the time, and CPU should be running at around 75C under max loading, while the GPU may reach 80-83C under max loading. May slightly vary on what actual components are installed.

 

I know u offer that option. Wot im asking is that when u guys do the repaste, do u apply IC Diamond to both the CPU and GPU? Or just to the GPU, and then some lesser quality paste to the CPU?

My temperatures are the other way round. CPU is 80-83C under max loading, and GPU never breaks 73C.

I bought a GT70-2293 from u guys.

 

We wiped the factory paste off and applied IC Diamond on both CPU and GPU. what are the the temperatures for just running 3DMark?

 

Do as Ken suggested. Run a GPU intensive bench tool and check the temps. The 770m should not be as hot as the 780m so those temps seem normal GPU wise. However check if you have any other process running in the background using up the rest of the CPU clock. It did happen to me once that during an OpenCL simulation, the antivirus kicked in and I got temps of 90° GPU & 92° CPU.

 

83C for CPU and 73C for GPU (no turbo fan), there was a typo in my previous post which I've corrected. This is both the 3Dmark11 and 3Dmark Firestrike, as well as running 1080p Furmark for an hour when overclocked.

Stable OC Core is +135 MHz, Memory is +700 MHz. I'm not sure if OC'ing memory so much is harmful but it's very stable? Scores: 3Dmark11 and 3Dmark Firestrike.

Also I'm not sure if u saw my PM which I sent a while ago

Spoiler

How are the line-in and line-out sockets different from the microphone and headphone sockets, respectively?

I have read the manual and I do know that u can connect rear speakers to line-in and surround speakers to line-out. But i mean with regards to plugging a microphone/headset into the line-in/line-out, compared to plugging them in the "correct" mic/headset sockets, wot's the difference?

When i plugged headphones into the headphone jack I hear a light static buzz when inside applications (ie. games), however the issue seems to disappear when using the line-out jack. The volume level also seems to be slightly louder (given the same volume settings) when plugged into the the headphone jack, compared to the line-out jack.

Of course ideally I would like to use the "correct" socket if possible, but the buzzing static is annoying. Does this mean my headset socket is retarded?

 

Speaker/Volume are pre-amplified, and if the signal is too strong for the audio receiver then noise can be generated, thus these shouldn't be used with audio receiver.
This is why there are line-in & line-out for clean signal to be amplified by audio receiver.
Hope this answers your questions.

 

Thanks for the explanation but not sure I understand... so ur basically saying that the headphone jack (the jack with a headset icon next to it) shouldn't be used with a headphone, because it's pre-amplified? And instead I should just use the line-out jack, which is NOT pre-amplified?

If anything I would've expected it to be the other way round, since the manual does say that the line-out jack is for surround speakers. So if THAT jack gave noise I wouldn't be surprised.

RIP logic

 

Can you try updating the audio driver first? If it's not audio driver issue then it might be a bad audio circuitry.
I was saying headphone jack is intended for headphone jack, so you shouldn't connect headphone into line-out unless it's an audio receiver/amplifier.

 

Already did. Tried both the Realtek HD Audio drivers from Realtek and OEM, didn't make a difference. Currently using the MSI official 6.0.1.7324.

Connecting my headphones to the line-out is completely perfect with no noise at all, albeit with a very very slight volume decrease. The buzzing when connected to headphone jack isn't huge by any means, but it's definitely noticeable for me.

When I tried using lower quality headphones, the buzzing isn't there anymore! Not sure why my higher quality headphones like my current Kingston HyperX Cloud headset has this issue??? Maybe its so powerful it needs to use the line-out instead In any case I'm more than happy to use the line-out jack since it's working perfectly fine.

 

Can you test your same quality headset on a different computer to verify the static?
Which headset do you have? Does it have its own power source?

 

@Valour549
The line-out jack outputs a fixed voltage signal. Thats why you hear a lower volume signal. It's used for connecting directly to the input of an external amp/reciever. The headphone jack does have its own amplifier, capable of driving headphones of various power and impendance, so its signal is higher in power and volume versus the line-out jack.
To your problem there are various possibilities:
- the headphone amp doesn't go well with that particular pair of CANs. Do as Kevin suggested and try the CANs to a different source. If they work as expected than this is the most probable possibility.
- the CAN's internal coil is damaged and so a lower power input doesn't drive them hard enough to reveal this. On the different source above, try some bass heavy songs to put a bit of stress to the CAN's membrane. If everything's ok than skip this possibility.
- the headphone amp has its output damaged (unlikely as it worked with lower quality headphones).
- there is static current leaking to the notebook's grounding causing this.
Try grounding yourself and then touch the aluminum palmrest. If it goes away, try changing the power outlet and see if it stops or leave the notebook in battery. If not than it's one of the above.
You also said that you can hear the buzzing during a gaming session. Try playing an audio file instead. Maybe it's got to do with some directx audio settings gone wrong.

@Kevin
150mW and 60ohm passive closed CANs with a (bit too high) 2% THD. I wouldn't call them powerful just average for a gaming headset.

 

I upgraded my bios to E16F4IMS.515 and now i'm having really high temperatures for my motherboard 50-70*C. I also cant find the old bios version online to revert the change.

Everything else seems to be working fine, although i do have occasional freezes when bios temp hits 65-70*C.

 

You must have better headset/speaker set in your place. Audiophile detected.

What was your previous version? Do you remember?
Have you also updated the EC too besides BIOS?

 

My previous BIOS version is E16F4IMS.50E and firmware is 16F4EMS1 Version 5.05.

Yes, i updated both the EC firmware and the bios but not at the same time.

 

Send me an email as shown in my signature and I will send you the BIOS/EC upon your request.

 

Alright i sent the E-mail. But i want to update on my status.

My freeze might have been caused by a bad intel driver which i now updated and have the latest one (haven't really experience any freezes after when gaming).

The idle temp for my Motherboard is about 50*C and increases up to around 65*C, although i have seen as high as 70 but now the highest i've seen is 65*C.

With my old BIOS version, using speccy, my temperature is about 30*C and does not go higher.

 

My bad, my actual email is [email protected]. That email is sent to main box instead.
Resend and I can send you the old version of BIOS for you to try, if you are still interested of course.

 

Yup that's me
Electronics engineer with a passion on everything audio/video related. I use an external DAC/Amp with a pair of Sennheiser HD800 CANs.
Spent an arm on that but oh boy what a difference it makes

 

Hey guys, has anyone got SSE(Steel Series Engine) to work on the GT60 2OC-022US? All I get is "Please connect a SteelSeries Engine - Compatible Device to start".

Any help would be great, thanks.

 

By motherboard temp what do you refer to? Can you attach a screenshot of HWINFO with the readings? Maybe you need a repaste on the CPU.
AFAIK the PCH doesn't get that hot, at least not after a BIOS/EC update. Plus the old "NorthBridge" has been long integrated in the CPU (which are the temps you're most likely seeing there).

 

Nope not possible my friend as long as you have that keyboard model. SSE reads the keyboard's serial number directly from the EC and if a compatible ID is not found it gives that error. You have 2 solutions to this: either mod the EC with the newer keyboard revision S/N (rebuilding its checksum after that) or mod the SSE code to work with the older revision (if you can get the source code and you know programming). I'd pick the third solution: leave it as is and install a keyboard remap/macro software.
Here's one that's pretty useful and powerful once you get the hang of it:
http://www.autohotkey.com/

Felix

 

Hey guys I found 2 2gb ran sticks in my old windows 7 laptop. Its cl9 and 133mhz. I know that adding them will lower the clock of my other ram but idk if it will be an overall gain in performance.

This is a link with the specs: 2GB 204p PC3-10600 CL9 8c 256x8 DDR3-1333 1Rx8 1.5V SODIMM RFB, Kingston, CHT, TSB1333D3S9SR8U/2G

Should I add them?

 

Not unless you need the extra ram no. Even then it's worth picking up sticks of the correct speed instead.

 

It won't add anything to performance, it will subtract from it if you are adding slower RAM. Like Meaker said, unless you need the capacity, don't go for it, and if you can, go for sticks of the same speed.

 

If you really want to gain some performance, you can check these out.
Amazon.com: Kingston HyperX Impact Black 8GB 1600MHz DDR3L CL9 SODIMM 1.35V Laptop Memory (HX316LS9IB/8): Computers & Accessories

 

Thank you very much, Felix.

But on the SteelSeries website, it says that SSE officially supports the GT60.


But it does say 2014 models, makes me wonder. I think mine's a 2013 model. Blaaaaaast.

 

Got it working on mine! I upgraded my 2OD with a 970m though. The laptop has been tricked into thinking its a GT60 2QD model, and now SSE starts and runs. So it appears when SSE starts, it does some sort of chassis type check.

 

Does installing this public version helps to update the firmware on the keyboard? Possibly.

 

Sweeeet!!!

Talon,
Would you mind sharing the price/source of the GTX 970M, please? And did you also upgrade the CPU(i7 4900MQ O_O) ?

I wonder, would I be able to upgrade my GT60 2OC-022US? Would heating be a problem? Hmmm.

 

The cooling in the GT60 will handle up to the extreme edition CPUs.

 

It can support extreme but it may throttle a little bit due to limited power supply so it's not a good bundle.

 

If you head over to the 970/980m upgrade thread you will find all of that information, and more.

Also I yes I upgraded my CPU to a 4900MQ a very long time ago, probably around when I purchased the laptop. IMO it really isn't worth the buy in price. You are better off just keeping the 4700MQ and just overclocking it 200Mhz, and undervolting it via Intel XTU. I was able to OC 200Mhz and also undervolt my 4700MQ around -90mV. Better performance and better cooling is always nice.

I run my 4900MQ at 3.7Ghz on 4 cores at -90mV. I think the 4700MQ can do 3.4Ghz across 4 cores when OC. So not a huge difference.

 

The 4810mq is a nice chip to go with as it gives a fair frequency boost without breaking the bank.

 

I had to RMA my GT60 to MSI after a failed attempt to flash the motherboard bios.

They returned it prompty with an updated bios and everything works correctly except my CPU temps which are reaching 100c quickly and causing my fan to spin very loudly at full speed. Running a windows defender scan is enough to reach 100 degrees within 1 minute and cause the jet engine volume fan noise.

The CPU seems to act as if its over volted. I can confirm this is a CPU issue as my 770m temps remain low and I don’t have excess cpu load. I have removed the battery to reset the controller. I’m not sure what step to take as I can think of a few options.

Should I attempt to refresh or reinstall windows since the bios was updated?
I can use the windows power management settings to limit the CPU to 50% which works, I suppose I could leave it this way.
I can use the “ GT70 Fan Control V1.6.2” software to lower the fan speed, but doesn’t address the overheating.

I do not see any bios option to change the CPU voltage.
Should I research intel XTU software and attempt to undervolt the cpu?

Sorry for the scattered questions, any ideas would be very welcome, Thanks

 

Check thermal compound, and verify if the heatsink is securely attached or not.

 

Repasting worked, thanks!

I didn't think MSI would have removed my heat sinks when fixing my mobo issue, but I found a few thermal pads were overlapped and misaligned leading to poor cpu contact. Careful re positioning of the pads and repasting has my temps back to normal.

 

Hi guys sorry if this problem was already answered but my gt60 2oc gets audio stutters (and sometimes video stutters with it) randomly when watching videos. The problem persists for both the intel and nvida gpu and when attached to a monitor through hdmi. I read that a nvidia driver conflict could be causing this issue so I reinstalled the stable drivers (still got stutters) then i installed the beta drivers and still got stuttering audio. I recently read that this could also be a realtek issue and am currently reinstalling/updating the driver now. This problem has lasted for about a month now. Any help would be great. Thanks.