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How odd, I will check mine... I use my laptop connected to an external monitor and I have idle temps between 35-40 usually for the GPU unless I play a game. I haven't monitored my clocks during that time but with such temps I imagined I was on low clockspeed. If I am indeed running at 135mhz I will let you know and which drivers/config I am using.

 

Yes, it is the factory MSI Drive "Model: WDC WD10JPVX-22JC3T0" according to HWinfo. It's the 1TB HDD that came with the laptop.

Is there a known issue with these drives?

 

I installed this update since its unofficial release, no problems since then with the windows 8 drivers. Now struggling to download the updates from the msi download centre. Many drivers/utilities are either down or overloaded with downloads (for each one i try the 3 different servers -USA-Europe-Asia =>get a sleep folks!! Let people download).

 

Could be the intellipark feature causing the problem, the issues are similar like this here?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/643317-asus-k53sv-laptop-1-4-sec-freeze.html

 

Yep, just read through that thread, sounds exactly like the problem! I'll give the tool you posted a try and report back a bit later. Thanks Ken for the link.

EDIT: Well, that seemed to fix the problem. It appears that the HDD's Advanced Power Management (APM) is the problem. When using the tools Ken linked (I tried Crystaldiskinfo but either tool should work) to disable or change APM, it keeps the drive from spooling down while in use. I just tested in a sim that would do it constantly when accessing the HDD randomly, and all was seemless and smooth as it should be. Seems that even with Windows set to keep the drive powered up, it still is automatically spooling down, and when access is needed it has to crank back up quickly and causes the stutter or pause while the rest of the machine waits for the data.

You can audibly hear the drive remaining spun up when tinkering with the APM settings.

So, that means that if you do replace the HDD with a SSD you'll be just fine, as it's not an actual system issue.

Thanks Ken for the help!

EDIT 2: Ryzeki, apparently HWMonitor is keeping the drive spun up by making the HDD's APM think the drive is active. So, that's a fix as well too, I'll test that out next. Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks to you and thanks to Ken Lee! Seems we have a fix now Which is awesome because I had my entire steam catalog on that HDD and it was driving me nuts lately. I only noticed it when I stopped monitoring temps...

Damm that HDD advanced features giving me advanced problems!

Maybe I will replace the drive this xmas so meanwhile this will help.

 

Finally got back to my desk and hooked up my external monitor via HDMI... I actually am getting a clock speed of 135mhz on the 780m which is driving the monitor. It appear it was my noisy NStech fan that had me fooled, as it spins up when hooking up an external monitor and is annoyingly loud.

I'm running the latest 331.40 Beta drivers and updated to 8.1 today if that matters. As I type this now it's 135mhz on the core and 324mhz for the memory, and as I load it with random programs it steps up and down properly. This is after a fresh boot as well, no sleep or restarts etc. Seems maybe you've got a driver amiss.

Ryzeki I can't wait for 1TB SSD's to drop further in price to finally be done with HDD's once and for all HA!

 

I think I agree with the driver amiss comment. Mine never gets hot unless I play games and I use it hooked up 99% of the time.

And yeah I can't wait for cheaper 1TB SSD drives! Tho I am even considering 512GB ones... Still, 300ish dlrs is a bit to spend on storage. And I need to save up!

 

Mines been running at 37C for the last few hours, so I agree minimal extra heat when downclocked properly.

Yeah, was looking today, I'm amazed at how much 512's and 1TB's have actually dropped, I haven't checked in a while.... can't believe a 1TB is around $500 and a 512GB for a fuzz over $300. Getting closer to being justified! :thumbsup:

 

This is from a post by xMAR99 on June 23

I have ordered a GT60 2OD-026US from GentechPC. I ordered it without the secondary drive. I plan on taking out the SanDisk msata from the primary drive before even starting it up the first time. So I won't be creating the recovery discs. I will be putting in a Samsung EVO 250GB SSD in the secondary drive slot. I was planing on installing win 7 on it. Now I'm thinking about win 8. Just to try it out.

My question is, can I use the recovery disc images that xMAR99 has posted on the first page to install win 8 and all the MSI software that comes on the notebook? I've already down loaded them and burned them to disc. Has anyone used these disc images that xMAR99 has uploaded and did you have any problems?
I've seen some posts that say the bios has the Microsoft key. Is this correct? Could I do a clean install of a win 8 iso and it would use this key?

 

Wow, Win 8.1 update got my BIS firewall working but still havnt updated the win 8.1 drivers. Did anyone notice that a couple of drivers and utility dont download frm msi site and show 404 file error.

Update - i updated my drivers and utility to the win 8.1 but strangely the touchpad driver kept malfunctioning. so had to uninstall and reinstall the older win 8 driver which works fine, the killer Bluetooth also started having issues but can't revert to win 8 driver due to some issues, maybe bcoz its a AIO for lan/Bluetooth/wifi. In the missing driver list, i seem to be missing the intel vga driver while in utility, the keyboard light manager and sound blaster utility failed to download as files are missing from server. Overall, the win 8.1 update seem to give both visual and functional update to win 8 users. So, check whether its available in the Windows store and highly suggested to win 8 users

PS - what is the function of battery calibration utility. I started it as it said its good to recaliberate the battery in 3 months

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

 

You are able to do a clean install using the Discs xMAR created. I just did everything about two weeks ago, so it does work. I am not sure it ever did ask for a Microsoft Key. As far as uploading and burning, no issues at all. Each file is fairly large, so expect a day of downloading.

Hope this helps

Erikranger

 

I removed both the mSata and HDD long ago and replaced with a 840 pro 512g. It was about 400, but well worth it. Between battery life and speed, I am happy with the results.

erikranger

 

Thanks Enikranger, My GT60 comes tomorrow so I try it. I've already down loaded them and burned them to disc.

 

hey guys, this is my first post here, but i dont consider myself a newbie, just the lack of information has got me worried. i've had the laptop for a while and decided to a repaste for arkham origins last night. i ended up stripping the screws on the gpu heatsink and i could not find any replacements, so i ordered a replacement heatsink but it is the older one without the bridge, you guys think i can just take the screws out of that one and put them in this one when it arrives on tuesday? i also ordered new thermal pads for the capacitors and stuff. my teps are realllllly bad right now so i'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. thanks in advance guys!

 

The screws are held in by plastic washers, if you cut them you could but the bridge is not essential. I would also invest in a decent screwdriver.

 

Hahaha yeah, I bought a new one, I'm in college and away from home so my options were scarce. So my other option here is just use the one without the bridge?

 

Does anybody know if the MSI Hybrid Power software has to be running for it to be activated? Or is it just to let you see whether Hybrid Power is active?

 

It's function is only to display the status of Hybrid Power. The actual switch happens in the EC

 

Good to know. Thanks.

 

I run a 780m with the old style heatsink just fine.

 

Yes this is true. At first I thought you had to have the program open but testing around quickly showed this was only monitoring, rather than activating anything haha

 

what are your temps like? just so i have an idea of when i set mine up like that tomorrow

 

ps thank you for your reply back!

 

My GT60 config is tearing through BF4 on Ultra settings no problem. Love this laptop, just wish I had more time to play these days.

 

BF 4 on ultra? That´s good news! I´ve managed to play BETA on ULTRA, I'm glad the final version is also running at ultra with no problemas at all.

I think I'm in love with my GT60, the only things I don't like very much (and that are because of Nvidia, not MSI) are the incompatibility with SHIELD and Shadow Play

 

Don't worry, at least for shadow play I think nVidia announced they will add compatibility to mobile GPUs in an update

 

did any one try the latest Nvidia 331.65 WHQL driver ? I found that my GPU clock stuck at 324 mhz when gaming

 

Have any of you seen this? If this is old news I apologize, but it's certainly new to me.

Newegg.com - MSI GT Series GT60 2OD-261US Intel Core i7 4700MQ(2.40GHz) 16GB Memory 1TB HDD 128GB SSD 15.6" Notebook Windows 8

•Intel Core i7 4700MQ(2.40GHz)
•16GB Memory
•1TB HDD
•128GB SSD
•2880 x 1620
•NVIDIA Geforce GTX780M
•Windows 8

 

That one must be the 3K Edition

 

With the new GPUZ 0.7.4 you get normal reads.
Don't worry, it is working ok.

I did saw too 324mhz monitoring with MSI Afterburner 3.0.0 Beta 15

 

I believe someone else had reported a similar issue like this using an external monitor.
Is your system connected to an AC power source? Do you have GPUZ screenshot?

 

3K edition!!!

 

no external monitor, connected to AC power while playing , the MSI Afterburner 3.0.0 Beta 15 showing 324mhz GPU clock and stable 60FPS in "batman arkham origins " with ultra settings and vsync on
after change to Nvidia 326.80 driver ( from MSI website windows 8.1 ) , the GPU clock are going fine and FPS is between 42-60 with same settings
somethings weird there......

 

weird before the 327.13 driver don't have this problem

 

Use GPUZ to verify the speed, see what it shows.
Could be driver glitch.

 

Afterburner doesn't support mobile devices so you result may be whatever; mostly it works but for example my 260M always gets misread MHz readings (low).

 

Does anyone else's hybrid power always say on whenever they turn it on? Mine is always on whenever I click it even though I am not running any game.

 

That is odd. Mine only says ready but remains OFF until I use it.

 

Update BIOS & EC, and the software.
It's no longer called Hybrid Power but Power Boost.
MSI Global – Download Center

 

Does the name change also mean something else changed or is it the same?

 

No changes I am aware of.

 

Just the name change only.

 

Hi
I have same problem with MSI GT70 2OD-057 Model:MS-1763
I changed PEG DMI ratio to next step 1.25x then intel extreme utility ask reboot, on the reboot time comes on bluescreen and then shut down.
When I turn power on, screen is black (no back light) 5 sec fans running and automatically shutdown, after few seconds turn automatically on again same repeating circle.

I tried battery off, wait 10 min. Add extra ram and I took SSD and HDD out, but still nothing, I dont have second CPU to try

I need help what to do.

I have big panic :cry:

 

You may have to try taking the CMOS battery out to clear CMOS, besides having no power sources connected to the system.
However, the CMOS battery is located in a hard to reach spot which is on the C side (underneath keyboard behind the plastic).
You can check on the D side (bottom) to see if there's any flex connector that may look like internal battery connection and try to disconnect it if it's available.

 

The easiest way to fix them problem is to remove all the ram, press the power button (it wont turn on properly of course) turn it off and put in a single stick of ram. This will force the system to reset the internal timings.

If you have a stick of different ram around placing that in by itself will also work.

 

O jeez man I have this exact issue once when I got brave using Intel XTU with my GT60 2OD. By the way I got your message and tried to get back to you earlier but got tied up with work.

I managed to fix mine but swapping my swapping out my 4900MQ with my stock 4700MQ. This did something and allowed the laptop to boot up. Then I switched back to my 4900MQ and it was all good. I know you don't have a spare CPU to try this, but you could always try and remove the RAM completely, try a boot. If this doesn't work then remove the CPU and attempt a few boots. The laptop obviously won't boot without the CPU, but I believe it had something to do with the new hardware found that fixed something in the bios for me. Then put the CPU back in and boot it again.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

Oh wow, glad to hear that you've managed to fix it.
Maybe if you are still brave as before with a strong heart, repeat the same process and try the memory removal method for us.... lol :thumbsup:

 

Basically by changing the PEG/DMI ratio you de-sinchronise the CPU's GPU (HD4600) from the dedicated GPU (gtx 780m). The PEG base clock becomes higher than the DMI clock and tries to initialise the video output but it fails because it's out of sync (that's why the reboots happen). The BIOS clock registers need to be reset to their defaults. Talon changed the CPU with a 4700MQ from the 4900MQ, which has a lower clock multiplier, and so the BIOS did a self-reset. KaidoE try to place the ram sticks on the free slots under the keyboard or use different ram brand as Meaker suggested. As a last resort, remove the gtx 780m (dGPU) and try booting with only the integrated HD4600. You have to repaste afterwards.

There is another way to reset the BIOS but it's complicated and good soldering skills are required so it's out of the question..

felix

 

Oh you desynchronise the whole system.

If you don't understand how it works I would STRONGLY advise leaving it alone.

As it is the 4930MX may be the only CPU that properly responds to it but overclocking/underclocking your SATA bus, pci express bus and your memory 20% when they usually have a 5% tolerance is a bad idea.

We looked into this and tried a range of options (which is why I was saying what the easiest recovery method was changing the ram configuration) but had no success. There may be a group of settings that will provide a usable setting, but everything will have to be spot on, including memory frequencies, voltages and base clocks so it is not going to be a simple matter.