Owners Lounge for the totally configurable MSI 1651 ID2

ill be putting in the 3870 as soon as i get the heatsink from rob.. hopefully i can get the 4850 also in the meantime

 

On the GX620 under the 9600m GPU there should be 2 tabs that come out of the motherboard, becareful when you install the 3870 that those tabs dont touch it as it will not boot. I am not sure if the GX620 has them but I know the GX720 does. Just a heads up as it could short out the system.

I would invest in a laptop cooler due to the single fan solution in the GX620. When I put my 3870 in my GX720 I bought a cooler and it never went above 76c. If you have any questions on installing it please shoot me a PM and I would be glad to help.
You will really enjoy the preformance diffrence. It amazed me. The 3870 can oc very well and I hit 10,799 in 3dmark06 and my FPS in games more than doubled from the 9600m GT.

 

it has them but someone who put the 3870 into the 620 said they fit fine? so im not sure. the spacing looks to be the same as the 9600gt though. if not ill put a couple small plastic spacers on top of those posts and it will protect the from touching but i do hope i can screw down the card or the only thing holding it in will be the heatsink.

what card did your have before the 9600m gt? i hope its worth all the effort of doing this upgrade lol..

i also have the upgraded heatsink from the 627 on its way and its MUCH larger and all copper on the gpu side. i think it will be fine. the other person who did the mod in his 620 said it never got above 80 or so if i remember right

 

Those tabs have nothing to do about the card fitting, it will fit but dont let the tabs touch the card. I used electrical tape on the tabs in the GX720. As for heat, I am just making sure you monitor it and a cooler always helps.

 

Would the 4850's work in the gt628? I'd assume they would, considering that they are pretty much the same notebook as the gx620.

 

Yes they would, The 4850 is MXM III type 2.1. You might have to change the heatsink. Honestly upgrading from the 160m to a 4850 is not worth it imo.

 

I've been comparing laptops and this quote is one of the reasons I've bumped this model to the bottom of the list.

High 90s?! That's shocking to me, but maybe it's just because I've been looking only at laptops with good cooling systems? I've searched around and don't see other MSI 1651 ID2 users with temps that high.


Anyone else see that kind of temps under load?

 

I can only see it getting that high if you were using some kind of high voltage cpu and using the turbo feature. I've never experienced any temps that high, not even with my Q9000. The only heat gripe I have is that the brushed aluminum makes my palms sweaty when gaming, lol.

 

this is the heatsink i have coming for mine to use with the 3870

 

So, i think im gonna do a video review for the 1651 id2. I only found about 3 videos for it total on youtube. Any ideas on what to include?

 

The functions it has, like hot keys and touch sensors, benchmarks + gaming, battery life, screen quality, temps, and the build quality. Congrats on such a great laptop.

 

Wow, I've just cleaned my ms-1651 and reapplied the thermal paste using the tape method after completely removing the old paste residue with isopropyl alcohol and boy, it is awesome how cool the laptop is running now. I'm running overclockd at 600/1500/800 undervolted at 0.85v for all clocks and before I cleaned everything and put a new application of AS5 when folding I would be running at 80-86C and the fans would be running full blast and the temps would be over 90 when gaming but now it humming along at 60C with folding@home running and the fans are barely audible. I haven't launched a game yet but I'm sure the results will be just as good. I stumbled upon the tape method randomly and clearly did not expect such good results with it.

For those who don't know the tape method consist of noting where the die of the cpu/gpu makes contact with the heatsink and then mask everything else with tape leaving only the contact area open, putting thermal tape in the unprotected part and then smearing it around the heatsink with a credit card/plastic card so that the layer of paste is as thick as the tape then removing the masking tape and putting everything back together. I did not put any paste on the actual cpu, just the heatsink and it seems to be working fine.

 

hmm wow, sounds like i should try the tape method! =] let me know how it goes with gaming

 

I just ran the unigine engine benchmark for 20 minutes at 1920x1200 16xAF and 8x AA. The maximum I got is 68C... And the fans are still running quietly. Lol I'm basically running a GT 130m at the moment

 

I think something is wrong with my laptop. Twice today while playing modern warfare 2, randomly my laptop played the error sound that means critical stop and then my laptop shuts off? What does this mean and how do I fix it?

 

You have professional toll free 24/7 tech support available for your PowerPro P 15:2. The number is on the bottom of your laptop...I would strongly recommend calling them.

 

Oh the number is available under the laptop? I never knew that ha. i'll give them a call this weekend.

 

As silly as it sounds, make sure you do follow the numbers when putting the heatsinks back on for the cpu and gpu. It can make a big difference if you don't follow the order.

 

Right when I left game I had a temperature of 102 C the second i swapped from game and then it was 96 C. I thought my temps may have been what caused the shutoff. now I'm afraid my pc wont turn off in time/ or that my system may already be damaged from heat. Now what should I do in the spare time before I call the help line? not play my game right?

 

Ok so i felt daring so I unscrewed the giant orange/bronze metal piece attached to the fan, unplugged the fan. Removed the fan from the metal piece and discovered several layers of dust covering alot of the area between the fan and the metal grating. the dust overall when smooshed together was the size of a marble almost. so could this be the heat problem? also I saw some of my fingerprints turned brown on the orange metal piece is this bad and how do i stop it. under neath the metal piece some of the goooy stuff over the green square which i think is cpu/gpu was tan like it was burnt. i left the gooyt stuff on which ui believe is artic silver, also some of the green square had lighter streaks that look like some of the green plastic has melted or could this be the artic silver?

 

okay so i got the 627 heatsink and modded it to fit the 3870 card itself it will fir perfectly but requires some metal to be removed to do so. end result perfect fit. couldnt have asked for better. problem.... i have no backplate for the card and the 9600 one of course does not fit. i would have been done tonight had i not had a snag.

i tried a bolt through with a few plastic washer between the card and the nuts and bolts but because there is nothing under the card holding the small bolts in place i cant get them tight enough before they start spinning and then i had a heck of a time getting the heatsink back off there. any thoughts or suggestions??

 

That does sound like a lot of dust and could well be the cause. Completely remove all of that. Consider blowing out the heatsink and fan with compressed air as well.

Sounds like corrosion from the oils and moisture in your skin. The best thing to do for that would be to thoroughly dry the area and possibly consider using a light abrasive cleaner with a dry, lint free cloth to try and rub it clean. It probably isn't going to hurt anything as far as your overheating problem, but you generally don't want corrosion inside your laptop if you can help it.

The lighter streaks in the chip could be caused by heat, but may not necessarily be a sign of an actual problem just stress on the chip. The gooey stuff should be Arctic Silver, yes. If you haven't had the laptop long, it shouldn't be necessary to reapply new thermal compound yet. As you're under warranty, it might be best to clean the dust you found, put everything back together and see if that resolves the temperature problem. If damage has already been done to the CPU or GPU it should be apparent once you start trying to use the computer normally. If the graphics glitch or the system shuts off on its own you may just have to get an RMA to send it back for service. I would recommend playing your game and testing your temperatures to see if the problem is fixed. If it appears to not be resolved, contact support as Paladin44 suggested.

If you do decide to reapply the Arctic Silver, be sure to thoroughly clean the old compound off the chip and heatsink with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip first.

 

Use bolts and nuts, here is a picture of mine and it was easy to do, very secure too.

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae357/cobra03_2009/100_3876.jpg

I agree the bolts are hard to tighten down but there is a trick to it with a pair of needle nose pliers and tissue paper.

 

Earlier twice before I removed the dust the computer shut off on it's own from heat are you saying it is already damaged? or did you mean that if it shuts off on it's own after I took out the dust again, then its damaged?

Overall the air blowing from the fan is a lot cooler, my game runs smoother, heat has dropped by 10 C, which is what it normally was.

 

No one is saying that anything is damaged. That is the purpose of the shut-off...it protects your components from being damaged.

As you can see from your current performance you do not have any damaged components.

The real answer for you is to keep your laptop clean, and if you do, it will run much cooler.

 

Hi everybody! I just got my msi 1651, all I can say is WOOOOW! I use a P9500 and it overclocks to 3ghz without problems , but I want to upgrade to a better gpu, where can I get the bigger heatsink, where could I get an HD4850,Hd3870,9800gs,160m?

Thanks guys!!!!

 

A 4850 or 9800m GS is impossible to find, the 3870 sells sometimes cheap on ebay. The 160m sells on eurocom for $346 and so does a new 3870. Thats the only places I know of.

 

Thanks Ill keep an eye open! .

 

Ok thanks paladin44. I just never realized I could remove the heat sink and fan. So when will I ever need to reapply the artic silver? Is it a periodic thing or am I good for a long time?

 

Anytime I remove the heatsink I always reapply a quality thermal paste like Arctic Silver or IC Diamond.

 

Ok I got the turbo to work I think. When I push where the button for turbo the turbo pops on like it has since day 1 of owning the laptop. Then I used the gaming experience rating and re ran my assesment nad my processor and ram rating jumped up .3 to 6.6 when they were 6.3 so I believe the turbo works. How can I see the new rating of processor/what speed the processor is rated at?

 

Just run CPUz, when you activate the turbo you will see the bus change and it should show the current CPU clock speed.

 

ok cool. without turbo it says 266.0 and with turbo it says 308.6. so my cpu is now 3.08 ghz?


BTW does any who has this laptop know the best 3D settings to choose using the NVIDIA control Panel. I've heard that the default is for every program and is not tweaked for maximum quality.

 

I usually turn off vsync, unless im experiencing a large amount of screen splitting in games. I also maximize the minimum number of pre rendered frames to 8. Single display performance mode since you are using a single display. Antialiasing and such need to be tweaked around a bit.

 

No that's you FSB clock. The get your turbo clock just add 15% to your normal frequency.

 

hello all,

it's been few days i am researching about GPU undervolting using NiBiTor with BIOS flashing. indeed it is a VERY RISKY bussiness and result may vary. my questions are specific for owners of MSI 1651 ID2 with NVidia geForce GTS 160M who has ever done GPU undervolt (with above method, i believe) :

1. how many *C of temperature drop you got after modding ? (compare to pre-modding on idle & heavy load)
2. how is your stable modded voltage configuration on each level ? (extra, 3d, throt & 2d). if you can attach a copy of your modded vBIOS here, that would be great.
3. is there anything else you changed on modded BIOS beside voltage ? i am not planning to do overclock though.

my current GPU gets 90ish*C when playing ModernWarfare 2 & on Crysis sometimes reach 94 - 96*C with very high setting & room temp 77 - 78 F. so i want to hear from others (advise/critic/opinion) if they've ever tried undervolting this GPU model.

any respond will be highly appreciated. thank you .

 

Unlike cpus, which are sent to the end user with a higher voltage than needed, gpus are manufactured at the ideal power draw, so undervolting them would essentially be the same thing as underclocking them.

 

some NBR members on other sub forums have reported success in applying the method with different GPU cards & notebooks. some said they benefit capability to overclock (a little bit) of the undervolted card. means they can have more powerful card while maintain lower voltage & temperature. this sounds a good idea for OC fans

if we just underclock it, in my opinion, we limit it's top performance but keeping it's stock voltage & let the temperature untouched .

am I right ?

 

I'm not sure about ATI cards, but there is very little to no effect when undervolting a card. People have seen performance DECREASES when doing it. There is really no gray point here, you can undervolt your gpu to increase battery life at the cost of lowered performance, or you can overclock it to increase performance but run the risk of overheating/underclocking. This is just my experience and what ive read though, try for yourself and see if you gain lower temps and higher performance.

 

According to what they say here, undervolting does nothing really
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=437706

Anwyays, the 160m oc very nicely.

 

Anyone know if the WSXGA+ versions are still available anywhere? Been scouting out various makes and models and this MSI model is exactly what I'm looking for...15" WSXGA+ screen (hate 16:9), decent vid card (don't need top of the line like a 280M or 260M), and Core 2 processor (don't really need the Core i7

Seem to be only WXGA only at all the resellers, and the remainder either are 16:9 but meet my vid card and processor requirements or are 16:10 but the price is driven up by Core i7 and a top of the line vid card.

 

Mine is wsxga, but unfortunately the site i bought it from (btotech) stopped carrying them. finding one is going to be tough, good luck! try all the resellers.

 

you could always get a lcd off ebay and install it yourself

 

Hmm, never thought of that. Would any WSXGA+ lcd work or is there particular part number? (couldn't find it on the MSI site)

 

Keep an eye on ebay, the seller for my 1722 said he had two more. So theres bound to be a seller for the one your looking for.

 

Pretty much all screens are standard, I got myself this one (1920 x 1200)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180394566211

 

i may have some lg wsxga+ screens left ill check and see tonight. i used to sell screens and have some left all brand new.

 

Does the inverter need to be replaced/upgraded if stepping up to a screen capable of a higher resolution?

 

no, just buy the screen and you are good to go. Just don't get some non-standard screen like dell's newer screens.

 

So, had my 1651 with q9100 for about a week now and im loving it so far. the build is awesome, the display is really nice looking. the heat is somewhat high, but it is manageable. couple of cons are the keyboard and touchpad buttons, the keyboard itself is nice, but it seems poorly mounted, so there is a good amount of flex when you press a key hard. the touchpad itself is very nice and big, but the mouse button are shallow and take a bit of effort, kinda hurts my fingers. i got the eco button working, but the turbo button isn't. I probably have to update the firmware and bios, but to be honest im 100% content with the performance of it as is, and the temps are high enough.