Intel-TongFang QC7 (Element/Fusion 15/MAG-15/Vapor 15 Pro)

Honestly I just re-installed Nvidia drivers and the battery is back to normal. Make sure to use DDU otherwise it won't work

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I have confirmed that the newest version of GeForce experience causes a LOT of battery usage. I saw my CPU regularly pulling 12 W and now I see 1 W on idle after uninstalling GeForce experience but keeping latest Nvidia driver installed.

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I am looking for some help undervolting the 1660ti in my recently purchased Eluktronics Mag-15.

I have watched all of Bobofalltrades’ videos on undervolting and the specific thermals video on the Mag-15 multiple times, so I at least feel competent while traversing the MSI Afterburner software.

After watching Bobofalltrades’ thermal video, I tried to adjust the voltage curve on the editor to reflect a flat line at 1700hz (which I remember being the point he mentioned was working well) but I am unable to run any games using that undervolt (games fail to load/freeze/etc.).

I know the clock speeds on my card vary fairly drastically from Nvidia standard numbers due to Eluktroboost, so finding a perfect hz clock number to use may be difficult. Can anyone give me some tips or advice on how you successfully undervolted your gpu? Thanks!

 

May I have a look on the curve you've created?

 

Trackpad rattle/jiggle/tapping - This was VERY annoying and after looking at some people's fixes as well as suggestions that some paper could be inserted into the clip, it was said in another thread/reddit that it is actually the Trackpads metal retaining clip hitting part of the chassis alloy on the up/return of the pad at the bottom.

Anyway, glad to say its totally resolved for me now. I slid in some cloth automotive tape pieces in between the chassis and trackpad tabs..and we are golden. Trackpad feels like it should now. Surprised they don't do this from factory.

 

I have a slight problem with the space bar not registering on the left side.

Pictures of spacebar/ parts under it: https://imgur.com/a/YDoQpDs

So this has happened twice now: the left side of (1/3 to 1/4) will stop registering that press the pace bar. The middle always works fine, and I'm assuming that's because the actual spring loaded part, the sensor, works fine. The right side suffers a bit too when this happens, but not as much (only the very far edge doesn't register), but I assume that's due to the left side failing somehow. I've fixed this both times simply by removing the space bar, and placing it back. I have no idea what this changes, as both times I removed the spacebar slowly while looking underneath and saw nothing odd. When this happens, the whole spacebar sits lower somehow, and the left side has significantly less room to be pressed down than when it works fine.

This apparently occurs even when I do not use the spacebar. After the first time I started using an external keyboard just in case, while testing the space bar one or two times a day (Testing involves just pressing about 5 time on both the right and left side to make sure they work and feel ok). Today when I had tested it the problem had returned.

Another thing of note is that the spacebar is bent, it's higher in the middle and lower on the sides. When removed it's perfectly flat, but I assume that this is due to the clips holding down the sides while the springloaded sensor pushes up the middle, and thus nothing to worry about.

And finally, when pressing at the very bottom (enough to register a space character, and then a little more, directly at the middle of the space bar, a single click can be heard. I don't expect this to be of much importance (probably just related to mechanism of sensor), but thought it worth mentioning just in case (I never hear the click in normal use as I never press there).

 

I don't have this problem but am wondering if I've got something similar ... when I type on this keyboard I find I "miss out" on particular keys quite often (the one I think most of is "g", so when I try to type, say, "game", I get "ame"). I am a fairly good typist and have no problems on other keyboards... anyone else noticing anything off about their QC7 keyboards?

 

It's likely not the same problem I have, as mine is likely somehow related to the stabilizers and length of the spacebar. If you try to press G, does it feel different from other keys that you know work 100%? If you open notepad and press G over and over, does it ever not register? What if you hold it down, will G's keep appearing or does it ever stop?

 

I see your point... my space bar is fairly level so it's not the same issue, you're right.

thanks to what you suggested I'm testing my keyboard more now and I've discovered that I can get the keys to register *without* pressing the key hard enough for it to "click". So basically I have a situation where my keys might trigger without my wanting them to (just resting my finger on the key a little) and not triggering when I want it to (the missing "g" being the most common).

 

I think they should have just gotten rid of the clicky mechanism and advertised linear switches or something to that effect because that's exactly how they feel sometimes lol

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Anyone mind checking if their spacebar is "bent"? It's not something you'll see visually really, but if you carefully run your finger along the groove between the spacebar and keys above, you may notice the the spacebar is level with C and M, but marginally higher by the B. It's nothing I notice while using the laptop, but curious if this is common or if it somehow relates to my problem.

 

Could someone check if the webcam works when trying to video chat on e.g. Messenger.com using Chrome browser?
Chrome is trying to access my IR camera, even though I set the HD webcam in the Chrome>Settings as default camera. Everything works when I disable IR camera in Device Manager.

 

crap. Now that you say it, I see it. Same here - marginally higher near B. but I don't have the problem where apping on the left side of the space bar doesn't register. but apparently I missed the "t" when I typed "tap" earlier on argggggh

 

PSA: If you are having battery drain issues, I have noticed that the latest nvidia driver is the culprit! Uninstalling geforce experience isn't enough! For some reason nvidia's "display containers" are running amok with a bunch of processes running in the background even though I don't have any tools opened or installed polling the nvidia GPU. The best work around if you want to use the latest nvidia drivers is to:
1. DO NOT use geforce experience
2. Reinstall the nvidia drivers using the NVcleaninstaller ( https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...an-installer-for-nvidia-drivers-alpha.249085/)

When you run the NVcleaninstaller, make sure you select the following:
1. Display Driver (need this obviously)
2. PhysX
3. HD Audio via HDMI
4. Microsoft Visual C 2017 Runtime
5. Optimus (Need that battery life right?)
6. USB-C driver (need this for display port over usb C)
7. Shield Wireless Controller (only if you plan to stream gameplay to another device, otherwise leave it unchecked)
8. Virtual Audio
Leave everything else unchecked until nvidia fixes this issue. My CPU wattage went down from an idle 12 W average to 1-2 W average.

That concludes my monthly report of "windows 10 and nvidia tries to ruin amazing laptop performance and battery life for everyone"

Edit: Turns out the issue is isolated to the latest Nvidia drivers! I can use Nvidia driver 441.66 with GeForce experience and I have no battery drain. I recommend not updating until Nvidia resolves the issue.

 

What kind of performance are people getting Battlefield V multiplayer? I can't seem to get past around 50fps regardless of my graphics settings. MSI Afterburner shows the cpu sitting at around 4GHz and the gpu at around 1750MHz so I'm not really sure what's going on. RTX is off.

 

BFV is trash, it hogs the CPU for absolutely no reason just sitting on the main menu. Look at task manager per core load and you will see what I mean. Also 50fps is low with the 2070 and 9750H you should be getting around 100+ typically around 120-130 depending on the gameplay. How are you testing FPS, are you using the built in display or an external one? What settings and resolution also. Is the GPU fully loaded? You can check in task manager.

 

So @XMG I think you might want to investigate the latest nvidia drivers. After rebooting my laptop the next day the battery drain issue persisted....
I tried disabling the nvidia display container service in windows but then I couldn't use nvidia gpu or the control panel so I left it enabled.

The solution to the battery drain is really funny....you just have to re-install the nvidia driver but it only lasts until your next reboot it seems, will continue testing to see if I find a work around. Seems like optimus isn't engaging after reboot since my package power is around 12 W constantly before the nvidia driver install and then 0.5 W - 1 W after the reinstall.

 

You probably shouldn't worry about it. I can imagine it's common and no big deal, just a byproduct of how the stabilizers work

 

Ok so rolling back nvidia drivers seems to resolve the issue. Currently on nvidia driver 441.41 (with geforce experience installed) with no issues and battery life is stable at around 9 hours with power saver. I recommend no one uses the newest nvidia drivers yet until this fix this bug as it could cause some unnecessary battery stress if those who are unwary let their batteries drain and die from the excessive nvidia optimus bug.

 

Hey several of us on the older Gk5 and Gk7 chassis are having the same battery drain and high package power draw issue.

Personally am currently on 441.41 but still suffering from it. Apparently the USB C driver is causing it as well so i'm not too sure what to install in nvcleaninstall

edit: Just DDU-ed and without the nvidia driver, im sitting on less than 5w idle on battery as well as plugged in. Those numbers seem high compared to yours

2nd edit: This workaround is amazing. Less than 2w on idle battery and i can finally get my battery life back. Even did a full restart on battery and the numbers are still low.

 

I recommend JUST installing the driver and checking if the power draw issue is fixed and enable 1 feature at a time until you find the culprit (reboots in between each reinstall). For me it is just a matter of driver version as I can use the USB c driver with no issue

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That was what i did when i wanted to update my drivers and that resulted in the really high power draw. So far your fix is working really well and works on 441.41 and between reboots on battery and plugged in

 

Suddenly seem to have lag spikes when playing Apex Legends, around 30 fps in the lobby and in-game.

Still using Nvidia Driver 441.41 with Geforce Experience installed.

Anyone have similar issues?

 

Lag spikes or fps drops? Totally different things. I haven't test lately but I DO know the latest version of windows 1903 with latest updates caused a lot of fps drops and studdering for me in several games like league of legends. I use league of legends as an example because it's a really lightweight game that shouldn't be bottlenecked by any component and yet still had fps drops in the latest windows update. I ended up reinstalling windows 5 times until I learned my lesson and disabled updates altogether for better stability. Now I have no performance drops or studdering in any of my games.

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Anyone having a problem with ICC profiles resetting each time they restart their MAG-15? Despite having set it as the default profile, I have to go to color management and click 'reload current calibrations' each time.

Edit: Never mind. I solved it by unchecking the display mode toggle in the Control Center..

 

UPDATE: I tried resetting my laptop but that didn’t do anything. My friend suggested to reset one more time but this time to unplug the laptop first before turning it back on. Problem fixed. Not entirely sure the reason behind it.

 

Did you ever get this fixed? I have the same problem

 

Unfortunately, not. Not that I use video chat on messenger often, but it bothers me that it doesn't work . It works sometimes in Incognito Mode, but more often not. Chrome just gets confused by the IR camera I think.

 

What I find odd is that in the Chrome settings you can choose what camera to use, but messenger defaults irreversibly to the IR camera. You would think that there is some way around that considering how many devices have both.

 

Can anybody confirm, if keyboard panel is replaceable on MAG-15?

 

Any updates regarding the Thunderbolt issue? There has been multiple cases where the port works as intended, but after a while (in my case, a week) it stops working. The dock itself is functional with other computers, so it definitely is the laptop. What gives? I've updated to the latest drivers: Thunderbolt 3 Driver v60 and Firmware v50 Update.

 

So as far as I'm aware the driver workaround fixed the CC and Geforce Experience crashes and task manager lags and I think I'm getting the results I should from this laptop (it arrived on Monday). But the battery drain issue still happens. Also the CC still reports my GPU at 300hz when supposedly not running and task manager shows CPU idling at around 0.7 - 0.9 ghz.

First - wondering if these numbers are ok?
Second - do you hear a high pitched buzz from your laptop (maybe the capacitors) when you put your ear close to it even lid closed in standby mode?
Third - any updates on fixing that battery drain issue? 10% loss after 4 hours in standby isn't right, right?

 

Don't use latest Nvidia drivers, they have a bug with this laptop currently that causes the gpu to be on while idle. Use the previous version or the one before that as I posted in my previous post like 1 or 2 pages ago

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Hi guys, owner of the Aftershock Vapor 15 here, currrently my Nvidea drivers are at v.441.87 and i am facing some issues like frequent crashes and blue screens of death, only to be greeted with a restart of the computer to bios not detecting my boot media. Had to force reset the computer to get it to boot my OS. Currently running on BIOS 0056 and XMG's 2.1.0.19 control center. Anyone have a fix or experiencing the same issue as me?

 

Try:
-Nvidia drivers - 441.66 (Maybe try NVCleanstall to install)
-flash to BIOS 58

You can use the downloads from the Mag 15 site - https://www.eluktronics.com/mag-15-drivers/

If there's still an issue, remove the Aftershock ControlCentre and you can install the eluktronics one in the meantime. It seems that you have to contact Aftershock in order to download drivers for their system which is rather annoying. Their driver page is 'coming soon'.

I'd also make sure intel drivers are up to date too. I used intel's auto search software which you can get on its website.

 

Key caps are replaceable, key switches are replaceable, and the whole keyboard tray is replaceable for different formats or different switches.

 

I've got this same issue. RMA'd the laptop and second USB C / Thunderbolt died the next day when using a dock. XMG said intel told them the update fixes this issue. I'm on the updated thunderbolt control center and firmware. Now RMA'ing the 2nd laptop but I imagine the 3rd will just have the same issue.

 

Thank you for your input. It's alarming that we've multiple cases where the Thunderbolt port malfunctions - one after the other - with the only word that we should wait for an update. Surely Intel isn't the root cause here when other laptops perform well with the very same docks that we use to connect other computers. Do technical support even test the port before sending a new one? This is an issue that should be taken seriously as users end up waiting weeks upon weeks returning the laptop, getting sent a new one, only to end up returning it once again.

It could be a bad batch, but it's alarming that you might end up returning one after the other because of bad QA. I bought mine to replace a 6 year old computer, and my job relies on the whole Adobe suite, which is performance hungry. Obviously they should understand that waiting for a replacement that might take months is not an option.

 

Wonder if they are just sending just universal tb3 drivers, instead of drivers just for the TF laptops.

 

Quick question for @Eluktronics. I see that you guys have 2 options for the power adapter on your site
https://www.eluktronics.com/MAG-15-AC-Adapter/#product-description
There is the original and "slim" type, can you please list the dimensions of the respective bricks on here or the website? I remember on an earlier post that the brick below is compatible AND slimmer as well
https://www.eluktronics.com/230-watt-ac-adapter-P6x0-1070
Not sure if that brick is the same dimensions as the "slim" variant you have listed on the site. Would be nice if we can see the dimensions of all 3 bricks if possible.

 

I am having that issue with my Eluktronics Mag-15. When I pushed down while I am using touchpad, there is a noise which makes me irritated. I couldn't find solution so far... I believe, it is happened because of production. They had a lot of order, and they couldnt manage to send them with perfect condition. They dont have good quality control. I dont have option to return back because I am not living in USA. I hope we will find fix.

edit2: I think, it is related with battery. The case of the battery is touching the magnesium panel and it makes sound because of it. Needs second view.

 

somewhere deep in the two-digit page numbers of this thread, they actually posted a picture of the two power supply bricks side by side.

I bought one myself and I actually don't think the size difference is that significant (i.e. it's not that much smaller as to make a real difference, although I do like that there's an LED on the supply to show it's being powered, which is not the case for the stock supply that came with my machine).

Anyways, re: keyboard issues, I just had a wierd bug where the numeric key row (that's 1 to 9 above my QWERTY row and below the function keys) suddenly stopped working (did not register anything, with or without shift key depressed etc.). - and = still worked fine, it was just the numbers. This problem went away when I did a reboot. No idea what caused it.

 

I know but they haven't shown this mag 15 "slim" type so I'm wondering if it's the same. I'm buying another brick because I have a thunderbolt dock setup at home and I don't want to be constantly plugging and unplugging the brick

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ah so there's now a third type of power brick? I didn't know that, my bad

 

I have the slim brick and it is way smaller then the stock one. The only negative is that the piece that actually goes into the laptop is slightly shorter then the one that came with it. It still works fine, but it is easy to pull it out of place given how short the cord is from the brick to the laptop itself. Its not any shorter then the stock one, but i always felt the stock one was to short.

 

I see. And only $5 more expensive than stock

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Where did you buy it and is it 230W?

Thanks.

 

I'm going to repost something I wrote earlier about the spacebar as I do now know what action causes it, but not actually what is happening when I do. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it!

Pictures of spacebar/ parts under it: https://imgur.com/a/YDoQpDs

So this has happened several now: the left side of (1/3 to 1/4) will stop registering that press the pace bar. The middle always works fine, and I'm assuming that's because the actual spring loaded part, the sensor, works fine. The right side suffers a bit too when this happens, but not as much (only the very far edge doesn't register), but I assume that's due to the left side failing somehow. I've fixed this both times simply by removing the space bar, and placing it back. I have no idea what this changes, as both times I removed the spacebar slowly while looking underneath and saw nothing odd. When this happens, the whole spacebar sits lower somehow, and the left side has significantly less room to be pressed down than when it works fine.

This apparently occurs even when I do not use the spacebar (See edit). After the first time I started using an external keyboard just in case, while testing the space bar one or two times a day (Testing involves just pressing about 5 time on both the right and left side to make sure they work and feel ok). Today when I had tested it the problem had returned.

Another thing of note is that the spacebar is bent, it's higher in the middle and lower on the sides. When removed it's perfectly flat, but I assume that this is due to the clips holding down the sides while the springloaded sensor pushes up the middle, and thus nothing to worry about.

Update: I figured out what action I do that causes it! Pressing too hard on the spacebar (but not an insane amount, easily done by accident if hitting spacebar too hard) causes a click sound (I think from the sensor in the middle) that is repeatable even after hearing it once. After you hear this click the left part of the spacebar gets wonky.

Video: https://streamable.com/1tx81

Listen with sound on to hear click. The obvious solution is then to not press that hard, but it's honestly really easy to do by accident. I said earlier that it is the seonsor making the click sound, but I actually have no idea, but this sound can only be made when pressing the middle, not the sides.

Edit: Tried pressing only the sensor with the same strength. it made the same sound. The metal C clips don't need to be attached for the space bar problem to happen.

 

Hi guys,

sorry, I didn't have time to catch up with the last 25 pages (250 replies) of this post. Christmas, New Year's, CES in Vegas... busy times.

I'm here to announce a new BIOS Release from Intel.

BIOS Update 0060

Installing this update is safe and very recommended. It can be installed in Windows (please close all programs before proceeding) or via the F7 Update Tool in BIOS-Setup.

Instructions:

• Download BIOS 0060 from our Download Portal.
• Follow the instructions in our PDF File.

Please let us know your experience with these updates by replying to this post.

According to Intel documents, the only changelog between BIOS 0058 and 0060 is this:

• Added Thunderbolt HRESET Sequence

HRESET as in Hard Reset...?
If we find more differences and explanations on how this might improve your Thunderbolt experience, we will let you know.
You can follow this discussion in this comment thread on Reddit.

Cheers,
XMG|Tom

 

Hi,

any chance we could trouble you to post pictures? The "smaller" power brick I'd bought isn't meaningfully smaller than the stock one that came with my machine...