TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Hello Everyone,

Did OP support ever come back to you regarding the warranty being voided if you take the sticker off? I’ve mentioned about a law preventing companies from doing this and what their stance is regarding it.

Their response:

“Hello,

We are checking with the warranty center and once we hear back we will let you know ASAP.

Thank you,
Opowered Support”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I had both here and the 15+ is boxed up to be returned tonight. Keyboard on the 17, even though it's just different caps, felt much better to me. I also much prefer the soft plastic wrist rest versus the aluminum, not sure why most seem to prefer the opposite. As for size, I had a Dell G5 too that was returned when I got the OP units and the 17+ was almost the exact same size, so for a 17" it's very small. The fans on the 17 also seem to run much less and temps are amazing, I haven't had it go any higher than low 80s and that's just with fans in gaming mode, not using turbo.

My take on it, if you care about portability the 15+ may be the better choice. In my case, it's mainly for use on the couch, so I opted for the 'better' keyboard, larger screen and better thermals. Honestly, both are great machines and it was very hard for me to not come up with some excuse to keep the 15+ as well.

 

I have had absolutely no problems with 1809

 

Hey guys, I used these settings as well but kept the CPU and Cache both at -132.8. It seems stable and I notched a 1266 on Cinebench. Very cool, thanks for posting! I should clarify that I have the OP 17+ not the 15+.

 

I have both laptops and love both. The 15+ will be for travel, and the 17+is my desktop replacement. One thing I definitely like on the 17+ is the keyboard. I can indeed confirm the keys can be swapped but I can also confirm that they touch the screen. These keys look like they have an anodized aluminum finish or at least a metallic paint finish over nylon/delrin.

Will keys touching the screen damage it over time? I figure it’s light light pressure, but I see complaints from other notebook owners that the smudging/marking is actually damage to the anti glare coating.

I really would like to keep them on the 15 due to their concave shape and I will be using the laptop’s keyboard much more frequently than my 17+. It’s a much nicer typing experience to me.

Here’s a pic for reference.
https://imgur.com/a/RihXDrZ

 

So...I put dual channel memory into my OP15 (8300/1050) and somehow I'm getting roughly the same FPS as I get on my desktop in Dota 2 now. This is at 1080p with all settings at highest other than shadows, which is just at High and not Ultra.

Desktop: Ryzen 1700 @ 3.8ghz, 16GB @ 2997 / CL14, GTX1070

Things of note:
Laptop prior to going to dual channel, FPS with Vulkan was flopping between 45 and 90 fps. Now its 90-120 when spectating. DX11 is ~80-90
Desktop in both DX11/Vulkan caps aroung 120.

Vulkan has minor stutters, but thats life. I bought this laptop hoping for 60 on Dota so I'm pleasantly surprised by the FPS.

 

Cheers for that!

I had a look at your screenshot and you have Speed Shift EPP checked and set to 0. That is a good setting for maximum performance when bench testing. The problem is that you do not have Speed Shift enabled. With Speed Shift enabled, ThrottleStop will show SST in green on the main screen.



On these laptops, I think you need to go into the ThrottleStop TPL window to enable Speed Shift. An EPP setting between 80 and 128 is good for daily use. 0 when plugged in is fine.

For the Turbo Ratio Limits, the default specs for the 8750H are 41, 41, 40, 40, 39, 39. This CPU does not support overclocking so there is no need to set any of these higher than the default spec.

 

Oh man totally missed that setting under the TPL screen. I remember doing that on the original version but when I downloaded the latest and installed the RWDrv.sys file, totally forgot to click in both areas. Good catch and as always we appreciate your assistance.

 

No I meant that, i ran windows updater but it wont update to 1809. My is 1803 but says its up to date

 

I have tried my best to look but have been unable to get a clear answer or advice. I created an account just to ask this question and potentially others regarding this platform in the future. I have the 15+ with the factory Goldkey single channel. Does purchasing another matching Goldkey and putting it into the other slot make it dual channel? What are peoples recommendations on either adding an additional Goldkey vs. selling the Goldkey and getting a 8GBx2 Kit. Also, what is the best (less than $140?) 8GBx2 set for this laptop. Thanks for the help everyone, this community has an incredible amount of support.

 

Look at killerkhatiby009's posts. Having dual Channel might not be necessary for your needs.

Sorry I dont have a direct answer.

 

Can anyone tell me - or link me to a tutorial - on how to correctly partition a 256GB SSD on this laptop? I can’t seem to understand what to do no matter what videos I watch

Thanks

 

Hello @unclewebb , did you get the chance to read these posts? Thanks in advance.

 

Second part is following post to the one linked. Since its only images, it doesn't seem to show as a quote.

 

I just tried Linux Mint 19.1 because I am so familiar with Linux Mint, and I cannot get external monitor working. (I tried every version of Mint on my MSI GE72 6QD past 17.3 and cannot get external monitors working correctly, so I am still on 17.3)

can you help confirm external monitor works on Manjaro?

 

I found some skins for the 15.6 on eBay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/323625355519

 

Thanks for posting the EFI. Everything is working with it except for the touchpad. Do you know how I can fix that?

 

Not sure if this concern is legit or not, but I've heard that undervolting can also damage a CPU, especially components such as MOSFETS. The argument is that when solid state devices don't get their rated spec. voltage, they end up drawing more current instead, to make up for the shortfall, which can damage the CPU and shorten its life.

 

Hello everyone....I tried to do search for this but didn't see anything....I have the OP 15+ and noticed that my touch pad is erratic...its doesn't always happen but just randomly when I'm typing. Is anyone else having this issue or suggestions to resolve this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

The touchpad on the 15+ is so off position relative to the keyboard, I bet it’s your right palm touching it when you are typing

You can double tap on touch pad’s upper left corner to disable it (you’ll see a green led there) and then double tap that spot again to activate touch pad

 

Thats what I did with my 8GB stick. I just bought a Team 8GB 2667 CL19 stick that matches for $50 and called it a day, and my dota FPS is actually consistent at 90-120 instead of 45-90

 

It is never a good idea to run a full load stress test while running on battery power. Trying to do this can damage or degrade a battery very quickly. Many performance oriented laptops will throttle the CPU or GPU or both while running on battery power. That is why gaming performance can be significantly less on battery power. Battery technology has not kept up with laptop technology.

Where are the damaged CPUs? People have been undervolting CPUs for the last decade and probably longer. I got started way back in the mobile Core 2 Duo era and my old Dell laptop with a T8100 still runs 100% reliably.

It would cost way too much for Intel to create a perfect voltage curve for every CPU they build on the assembly line so they are forced to err on the side of caution. Intel gives all of their CPUs a little extra voltage so they can guarantee stability for the life of the processor. They have always done this. Undervolting is just realigning the voltage curve to what the CPU actually needs. If anything, you are extending the life of the CPU by doing this. Less power going through the CPU is less heat and less wear and tear.

Intel also designs their CPUs so they receive less voltage when they are running at a slower speed. I do not see how undervolting is anything different than what Intel has designed their CPUs to do.

 

I got 16 gb of ram in my system now, and I am still capped at 35w peak. Is there something you did that I have to do or was your experience just plug and play?

Edit: Had it in office mode from being at the coffee shop from earlier, oops!

 

did you see if your laptop is set for the right power brick

 

Thanks again @unclewebb. Saved in my bookmarks.

 

Hey guys! Can anyone give me a list of things to do which will maximize the performance on this laptop?

So far I have
1. Add Dual Channel RAM
2. Repaste CPU and GPU
3. Undervolt CPU and GPU (will follow Bob's video for this)
4. Remove Power limit Lock
5. BIOS updates

Also, what can someone please list some programs to test my components?

So far I have
3DMark and PCMARK10 - idk which one would be better
Cinebench
CPU-Z
HW-Monitor

Thanks

 

6. Update EC along with bios
7. Make sure you are setup for 180W charging
8. Make sure you open Gaming Center >Fan Modes>Gaming Mode - Gaming Center>System Monitor>Equilibrium Mode
9. You might also want to watch this video from MrFox about Nvidia GPU undervolting/overclocking...

 

Thanks for the speedy Reply!
Some questions
1. What do you mean by update "EC" along with BIOS? What is EC?
2. Am I supposed to use ThrottleStop to undervolt the CPU and MSI Afterburner to undervolt the GPU?
3. Would it be better to undervolt or boost the GPU? I heard the 1060 runs relatively cool in this chassis and a slight boost wouldn't affect the thermals THAT much.

Thanks

 

1. https://ami.com/en/tech-blog/what-is-ec/
2. Yes Throttlestop for CPU and MSI Afterburner for GPU.
3. Watch the video for the answer to this question. Bob also has a video on this topic but the video I referenced is from another highly respected individual on these forums and it's actually more in depth.

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 "SM-N960U" using Tapatalk

 

Aight. Thanks for the info.
I'm pretty sure I'll get my laptop either tomorrow or the day after so I'll update after I apply all these tweaks.

 

I am trying to get Linux working in the 17+ with two external 4K monitors for work but no success with Mint and Manjaro

Could a Linux guru help?

 

Are you able to get Linux installed and running? Here is a tutorial for this laptop if you are having issues. You will need to do the GPU driver work around in step 6. Running Ubuntu 18:10 with 2 external monitors and the laptop screen:

https://www.pcspecialist.nl/forums/...structions-All-Working&highlight=recoil+linux

 

Have you noticed any issues as result? I was running similar TS settings and seeing great CB scores but when I switched to battery the exact same thing happened. I was at nearly 100% battery before the instant shutdown and when I plugged back in and restarted I was down to 2%. It appears to be recharging now but I'm worried about any possible permanent damage.

 

Thank you for the reply

I in

stalled both Linux Mint 19.1 and Manjaro 18 ok, and updated to latest kernel 4.20, but both install doesn’t detect my 4K monitors when I plug them in

 

Come to think of it I had a similar problem - it was resolved by switching to the 415 driver - open source.

 

It was set for the wrong brick, so I did the OEMsev and I don't know how to check if it actually changed anything. Any ideas?

 

Well how did you figure it was set to the wrong brick? Is it still set to the wrong brick?

 

I ran the F.bat in the folder in OEMsev and set it to "#2" like the readme said to, but I don't know where to check in the system to see if it actually changed anything.

 

... you didn't answer my question, how did you figure it was set to the wrong brick?

Unless you didn't know if it was set to the wrong brick, and you're just running commands blindly...

 

When I opened the F.bat file it was set to "#3", which the readme said was 150w so I made the change to 180w because that is what my brick physically says.

 

... I give up.

You downloaded a file (F.bat) that has a command that someone put in with option 1. And you open up the file and edit it to say option 2. Then you ran it. That is running commands blindly.

Never did you even determine that your system was setup to incorrect brick.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

I beli

i believe if you delete your TS ini file, and the first time you go back into TS TPL page, if you have 15+ and if you have 180W power adapter configured, you should see 55W and 65W

 

Give the guy a break. He clearly didn't know if his laptop misconfigured for the 150W brick and so he took a "belt and suspenders" approach running the command to ensure he's set to 180W. While I would't recommend doing it this way, we can at least try to help him.

@inocrrect, I'm not aware of an easy way to check. If you didn't get an obvious error running the batch file, it likely worked. The easiest way to confirm is when you run a benchmark like Cinebench and monitor your vitals via HWINFO64. You would be looking for things like your clock speed on all cores stays at 3.9ghz and that your PL1 and PL2 are NOT stuck at 35W (and are 55W and 65W). The problem is there are lots of things that impact those stats on these laptops, i.e. if you are stuck at 35W it doesn't mean the 180W batch file didn't work. It could be a bunch of other issues.

Before running Cinebench and reporting back that you're stuck at 35W, I would go back and read through all of the other folks on this forum who have graciously tested all kinds of ways to identify that you're not being throttled (e.g. ensure that you have your laptop set on gaming mode via the Gaming/Command Center, dual channel vs. single channel, using ThrottleStop to ensure you have Speed Shift enable, etc.).

 

Thank you, I am NOT stuck on 35w, and PL1 and PL2 are at 55w and 65w, respectively. And cores are idle at 3.9ghz.

 

I already did all of the other things you said, and the last thing I wanted to be sure was the power brick. Ran Cinebench and few times and got up to 1230, seems pretty average compared to other people scores on the forums. Thanks again for the help.

 

It's been a few days and several hands on hours with mine so far and all is well. My touchpad is still solid, though it's not used too much since I have an external mouse. Borderlands 2 runs and looks beautiful with everything maxed. Reminds me of why I USED to pick up multi-plat games on PC rather than consoles.

My space bar doesn't suffer from the "center-only pressure required" issue that others have mentioned with theirs. I intentionally tested this and my space bar activates with the same effort from left to right. We'll see how this goes after it's considered properly broken in. I've experienced no keyboard chattering, but this could be due to technique. I don't know.

No light bleed issues at all.

My second Goldkey stick should be here this weekend, but I'm not sure if I'll have time to install it then (as I mentioned several pages back I'll also be repasting while I'm inside my laptop adding the RAM).

100% satisfied and blown away with the quality and performance for the price so far. I would have considered it a deal even at $1,000.

My only issue comes from the Intel games offer. Others mention an email they received with the offer, but so far I haven't received anything and my machine came with nothing at all showing me how to redeem my games.

Edit - Correction, it was in my spam folder. Odd, considering it was sent from the same Walmart fulfillment address my order confirmation and pickup messages were sent. Whatever. I'm leaving this mention up in case others experience the same thing (always learn to check your spam folders!).

 

Not really, but haven't been paying much attention to it honestly, since I'm switching batteries in a couple of days anyways.

 

So I've been benching this OP15 to death (results coming soon) and one thing I've noticed during battery testing is that the dGPU turns on and off, on and off, etc... I'm going to have to look into that, but I'm curious if anyone else's does the same thing. If you're on battery just open up GPU-Z and give it 20 seconds or so to see if it does the same for you.

 

Hello everyone... Been happy with my Overpowered 15+ since just before Christmas. However starting the computer today the screen is mostly white... like the screen has lost its color. Has anyone else had this problem? I have moved the screen back and forth and it doesn't impact the screen like I assume would be the case with a loose wire. The computer was perfectly fine until now. Is there any software issue?