TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

speedshift is working correctly

at 0 the cpu runs max , always.

at 84 the cpu gets up to speed quickly and drops back to idle with no problems.

you do need to have the option enabled in TPL in order for speedshift to work correctly on these machines.

i'm happy with my results so far

regarding the high performance profile > i like the active fans on AC to increase fans before dropping speed of cpu as well as keeping the hard drive always on when plugged in.

 

I just re-pasted my 15+.
These were my temps running aida64 cpu stress test + FurMark Extreme Burn In.
Ambient temp. 25C, Fans Boost On, Equilibrium Mode, Undervolted -.250 core and -.125 cache (other TS settings identical to killerkhatiby009's on page 263)
Test length 20 mins.

Stock temps.
CPU
Core 0: 92, Core 1: 87, Core 2: 93, Core 3: 87, Core 4: 91, Core 5: 84

GPU: 70

Summary:
7 mins and 37 seconds into test I saw throttling, clock speed dropped from 3890 to 3419 and Core 0 temp dropped from 92 to 85. A couple seconds later it went back up to 3890 clock speed. This cycle repeated approximately every 40 seconds for the duration of the test. It would run 35 seconds at 3890 and for 2-3 seconds it would drop to 3419.

Post re-paste temps:
CPU (temps at 7mins and 37 seconds mark)
Core 0: 90, Core 1: 87, Core 2: 89, Core 3: 86, Core 4: 89, Core 5: 83

GPU: 69

Summary:
10 mins and 04 seconds is when cpu core 0 hit 92 C and throttling started, same thing here clocks dropped from 3890 to 3419. It ran identical to stock thermal paste but the clock speed remained at full boost for a couple more seconds.

I did test again post re-paste with my Cooler Master NotePal X-Slim cooling pad ( https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Maste...qid=1547247718&sr=8-2&keywords=notepal+x+slim) and temps held at 81 to 89 across all cores, no throttling at all during the 20 min test.

Playing Civ VI and AC Odyssey, re-paste temps were 1 - 2C better. Hardly noticeable, and there was no throttling.

This is also my first time re-pasting and because this is a easy machine to work on, I'd say it's worth it to replace the paste if not for temps then just for the experience.

 

First run I got a high of 1245 with no red exceptions in limit reasons. Ran again and got a 1166 with no red exceptions in limit reasons as well. Not sure what's going on.

 

Watch the multiplier in ThrottleStop. It should show a consistent 39.00 across all threads and all cores for the entire Cinebench run. If your CPU is throttling, post a screenshot while the CPU is fully loaded and CInebench is running. Include the main ThrottleStop window, the Limit Reasons Window and the FIVR window so I can have a look. When you start testing, is your CPU fairly idle? A significant number of Windows background tasks will show inconsistent results. Check the Task Manager Details tab for anything sucking up CPU cycles.

 

Here are the results, this test I scored a 1222. It did not maintain a consistent 39.00 - it would peak there for bit then go back to fluctuating. CPU would not fully hit 100% as well. I did notice my "Set Multiplier" value is 63, should this be 40/41?

 

Hey unclewebb, thanks for making this awesome program.
I'm trying to optimize my system, could you take a look at my results and see if there's anything I could do to improve them?

https://imgur.com/a/ptusYnl
https://imgur.com/a/PlGeM9H

1229 is my highest score with dual channel ram.

 

//////////////////////////// FOR DEVELOPERS && LINUX USERS ////////////////////////////
(keyboard lighting & fan setting in Linux)
C SHARP​

Here is a link where you can find some useful sources I took from TongFang developers (GitHub) and forked from MyApp 1.6
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-Iq03JuVCpy8L15HYWO0o2GtfUCHSbsb

You can use this files to build a minimal "Gaming Center" for Linux.

The file WMIEC.cs (in ECRAM WRITE) is the source-code with functions to write the EC.

There are sources for LedBar Colour, Keyboard RGB, FanSettings.​

The function that makes everything work is WMIWriteECRAM
WMIWriteECRAM(id, value)
"id" is the "address/id" of what we are changing
value is in what we are changing the "id"

EX. Fan setting in Auto Mode :
WMIEC.WMIWriteECRAM(1873UL, 0UL);

EX. Change LedBar colour
WMIEC.WMIWriteECRAM(1864UL, ………………………….); <---- here goes few conversion. (check the source)

 

I've noticed I can get very different result just from restarting the PC or restarting Cinebench. Regardless, best I was able to achieve after playing with it some more.
1275
Pretty cool! I had everything set in TS and then exit it. I exited OP Gaming Center and just hit the hardware button to run full speed fans.

 

I seem to have found an i7/RTX 1060 version of the TONGFANG GK5CN6Z (Z2 Deep Sea Ghost Mechrevo version) on pre-orders.

 

um... has anyone noticed their top cover (a-cover) the brushed alum has a green-ish tint to it?! I dont have a 15+ for direct comparison, but my 17+ alum cover has a greenish tint compared to the keyboard (c-cover), and also my MSI GE72 brushed alum pieces

 

wow, thank you so much. This, and the refer to tongfang-devs is exactly what I wished for, great.
I'll get my work started on this asap.

 

Hello guys,

I've a TongFang GI5CN5E / GJ5CN6E , with OS OpenSuse, i can't use HDMI, can someone help me? Or someone have this problem?

When i try to add a second monitor doesn't work.

cheers
Mav

 

That is a sign of some throttling. Not a huge amount of throttling but definitely some. In the TPL window, if the PP0 Current Limit is not locked, try raising it by 10 or 20 and see if this makes a difference. Also, try enabling the FIVR - Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits feature. It is on the right hand side just below the monitoring table. This has helped some users.



In the TPL window, also try increasing the Long and Short Turbo Power Limits. Just a slight bump with any of these settings might be enough to get you running a consistent 39.00 multiplier. Keep background processes to a minimum and also follow the next advice.

@redash - For consistent results, when bench testing with Speed Shift enabled, always set the Speed Shift EPP value to 0.

Once you know you have a consistent multiplier, try using the ThrottleStop - Stop Data feature to free up a few CPU cycles.

When Speed Shift is enabled, the Set Multiplier value is ignored. Do not check or adjust this.

You can also try setting the FIVR Cache Ratio Min and Max values to the same value (38).

 

Hey guys! This was my score for the TimeSpy benchmark. Is this score what I should be expecting or is it too low?

 

Aight, so I just did my CineBench test and got a score of 1046, pretty sure something is wrong here. Any suggestions to adress this issue?

I have Single Channel RAM so that would probably be one of the reasons for this score.

 

Ok, thanks. What about my EPP value? Should that be 0 when testing? Do these speed shifts settings need to be adjusted/disabled when I add dual channel RAM?

Thanks again for the advice, will do some more testing tomorrow. I updated to 8.7.0.6 and got the driver to work to disable power limits. There seemed to be some throttling still and scored a 1211.

 

Are you in office mode? If so you need to switch to gamer mode.

If you were in gamer mode and you are using ThrottleStop make sure your Speedshift - EPP is lower than 100. It defaults at 128 and that will not allow the cpu to hit it's max clock. I used 84 to get a Cinebench of 1273.

 

I did notice if I had TS completely closed my CineBench score would improve +20 or so. May be worth trying for anyone pushing for a better score.

 

@rtrip thanks for the advice!

After undervolting CPU core and cache by -125mV, setting SpeedShift - EPP to 84, Stock Thermal Paste, 8GB DDR4 Single Channel RAM @ 2666mHz I was able to get a Cinebench score of -
1243 in Gaming mode.
1252 in Turbo Mode

Pretty good (I think)
How much would a fresh application of thermal paste increase this score?​

 

Also, is this TimeSpy Score around what I should be expecting?

 

No, it's a "feature" so to speak. Mine is the same. Somebody else asked this question in this thread before who had also thought it was a problem. It's just how it is.

 

I generally toss the laptop into sleep mode throughout the day when I take it to classes. On four separate occasions now though, I've put the laptop into sleep mode, put it in my backpack, walked to my next class, and then pulled it out only to find it burning hot because it turned on inside my bag.

Has anyone else encountered this?

 

Hey guys, is there a way to find my RAM's model number WITHOUT opening up the laptop? When I asked google, they said the "Memory" tab in CPU-Z would show it, but it does not show up for me

 

Yeah maybe. In ubuntu linux, I have found a utility which can read the data on the ram SPD chip. Like this:

Code:

# read ram ddr4 spd data with the program 'decode-dimms'
sudo apt-get install -y i2c-tools
sudo decode-dimms
sudo modprobe eeprom
# follow these online guides:
# https://www.richud.com/wiki/Ubuntu_See_Live_RAM_Timings_Decode_DIMMS
# http://blog.zakkemble.co.uk/modifying-ram-spd-data/
# Do you want to probe the I2C/SMBus adapters now? (YES/no):
# Using driver `i2c-i801' for device 0000:00:1f.4: Kaby Lake (PCH)
# Module i2c-i801 loaded successfully.
sudo modprobe i2c-i801 # for kaby lake
sudo i2cdetect -l
sudo i2cdetect 2

However that is not going to work in windows. Perhaps you can do use other tools there. For example the overclocker Buildzoid has some recent videos about RAM. In those videos he seems to be using a couple of utilities to check the ram timings with.

One of them is called 'ASROCK Timing Configuration' and the other one is 'Ryzen Timing Checker'



But those tools are not going to help you to read anything meaningful from your SPD chip, if your SPD is blank / empty to begin with.

But what you can do sometimes, with the linux tool is to write to your ram sticks some new SPD data. That you might make up yourself.

 

Why can't you open up the laptop?

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 "SM-N960U" using Tapatalk

 

If you know your way around Linux, use a live CD (e.g. Linux Mint) burned on a USB stick, boot up from it (F7 and EFI boot from it), and issue a "sudo dmidecode --type memory" in Terminal.

From the man page:

"dmidecode is a tool for dumping a computer's DMI (some say SMBIOS) table contents in a human-readable format. This table contains a description of the system's hardware components, as well as other useful pieces of information such as serial numbers and BIOS revision. Thanks to this table, you can retrieve this information without having to probe for the actual hardware. While this is a good point in terms of report speed and safeness, this also makes the presented information possibly unreliable."

It dumps a lot of useful info and a very handy command to know when debugging hardware.

EDIT: I wanted to add, since it doesn't actually probe the hardware but read the DMI table, it could be incorrect ... lot of cheap vendors, especially these Chinese variants, don't properly program the EEPROM on many devices.

 

you may just want to set after burner to apply settings at start up but not start with windows. as monitoring the gpu is what makes it turn on and off I have seen this with other optimums laptops. s. I would just click the little button under startup on the main page of it and not the one in the settings

 

I re pasted mine with some noctua paste and could not tell any difference more then margin of error. they seem to do a pretty good stock paste job on the Op 17+, and with non conductive pastes a little to much is usually no issue as it will just get pushed out off to the side to little is more of an issue just don't put a ton

 

You can try thaiphoon it might read out model number. It definitely reads out manufacturer chip brands and timing.

http://www.softnology.biz

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

From what I've read that's a great single channel score. I got my core voltage down to -175.8mv before I started seeing errors in TS Bench. I also repaste with liquid metal. On AIDA64 stress tests the cpu temp never moves past 70 and more importantly never uses the high fan speeds. It just spools up a bit when it reaches 70 and spools back down when it's below 70. Overall I'm pleased with the gaming mode fan presets.

The only thing I wish is there was a way of toggling office mode and gaming mode without opening the control center. In office mode I put all the fans at 0% in the fan control and the temperature trends towards 45 with light web surfing and spotify. When I stress it the fan turns on at 70 but turns off at 65 and passively returns to 45 which is awesome. Gaming mode turns on the fans at it's minimum speed to push the cpu temp below 40 which is fine but I prefer no fan.

Edit: I got blue screens in games at -175 and -145mv before settling at -125mv core voltage. It's odd that it could pass AIDA64's cpu stress test for 30 mins without bluescreening at the more agressive undervolts, but not 15 mins of ck2.

 

Folks over on the reddit page for the OP 15+ are selling their 16gb sticks of RAM should anyone be interested:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsa...p_overpowered_gaming_laptop_144hz_refresh_15/

 

Guys, I need help with the Sound Blaster Connect SW. When I open it up now, it just shows a blank page with the speaker vol muted out on the bottom right. I had it setup with the configuration listed here couple of weeks ago and everything was working fine. Now it looks like my OP 15+ doesn't even recognize the sound blaster audio. Its also not listed under the device manager audio section. Even though I don't think it ever did. Any suggestions?

 

ok, it looks like some creative technology software component (2.0.0.30) and extension (2.0.0.30) from Dec 7th were updated today by windows today. I am wondering if these are the culprits. Anyway I can go back to previous version from creative?

Fixed it: Just went back to the previous drivers and it's working now. Found out that SB is listed under "Software Components" in DM.

 

So I've had the OP 15+ for three weeks by now and the Phison 256gb SSD that it came with has already failed. The system would randomly shut off when idling a week ago and have trouble booting to Windows even though the drive showed up in the BIOS, but now the SSD isn't even showing up in the BIOS anymore. If you haven't replaced the Phison SSD yet, I would do so ASAP.

 

It's like these heatsink screws are designed to be stripped. I got all the screws off OK except 2 one of which is still in my laptop and can't remove, completely stripped. I wanted to repaste!

edit: finally gave up couldnt repaste but i upgraded to dual channel if anyone wants a 16 gb goldkey stick lmk

 

I only had issues with heatsink screw 6. The other 5 were fine - maybe your screwdriver could be part of the problem?

On the 8300H under Aida64 it looks like my numbers are:

Stock: 70 degrees max
Stock paste with -135mv undervolt: 68
Kryonaut, no undervolt: 60-61
Kryonaut, -135 undervolt: The same 60-61 for the max

All of these seem to float on average of like 55 and just small blips for the cores. I'm guessing 100% is less of a deal on the 4 core than you guys with the 6

 

AliExpress has mechrevo Z2 for $700. It's base model with larger battery. Not bad considering AliExpress doesn't charge tax. So about 150 more than Walmart OP 15. But in stock with larger battery and better key caps
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/pWxMphW

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

The screws should only be getting stripped if you are using the wrong sized screw driver, using an oversized or undersized screwdriver increases the risk of stripping screws.

 

My window installation screwed up and the system image I made of the original OS failed. So I installed fresh. I

Stupid question....(?)
Should I install the "intel converged security and management engine" drivers.
I did some reading and it seems sketchy, from some brief reading it seems it's used for remote access and is also an insecure backdoor.

I installed all other drivers except audio and the sound blaster installed by windows automatically before I finished driver setup.

Also... I installed the latest Nvidia driver's from the Nvidia website prior to connecting to the internet.

 

Not necessarily... I noticed 2 things
1. Some of the screws have a lot of loctite on them.
2. The stock screws are way softer on the heads than the ones in the replacement set I bought.
So you can't generalize and say everyone that's having problems are using the wrong screw driver.
Remember when these rigs are assembled they are not putting them together with the thought of the end user taking them apart.

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 "SM-N960U" using Tapatalk

 

that dang monster and his 1308 his dang 3000 mhz ram just pushes him over my 1300 score its 8 points but its 8 points I can't seem to get even close to with 2666 ram

 

i had 1 screw that had lock tight the computer repair shop said they can remove my strip screw if i need it removed

 

Hey what are you guys using to copy the installed windows to a different nvme drive?

Also is there any way to search this thread? I remember someone talking about it earlier, but i can't go through 300 pages to find it.

 

Be cautious replacing the paste my current op17+ laptop seems to pump out the paste over time I tried using noctua nh1. but if it pumps out again I will probably have to order something like icy diamond or some other much thicker paste. It might have just been my first paste install but temps were great and slowly got worse. I have done a second reapply this time I spread it my self. If it pumps out again I will update you. as something like IC diamond will be my next step to stop the pump out effect

 

In the upper right hand corner there is a search bar, if you click on it one of the options is "search this thread only"


I recommend doing a fresh install. My battery life increased by at least an hour in doing so.

 

Macrium reflect it's easy just need ensure destination drive is larger than source drive. Else you need to manually shrink volumes of source to fit destination.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

Tbh I didn't have the right screw driver mine 2 was just a bit smaller. I knew that it might strip easier so I was extra careful but the number 7 screw is the one I couldn't get out idk how I'm gonna remove it

 

find a pc repair shop it shouldnt really cost much for them to remove it since its very easy to get too

 

Can you link the replacement set?