TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

This might be the fix for that https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...error-a0/2c1296dd-377e-4cd4-bf1b-33581e9d62a7

 

Yes, your undervolt is too low.

 

Anyone successfully passthrough the dGPU to a kvm virtualMachine under linux?

Also anyone interested in starting a linux only thread/guide? Took me forever to figure out how to make the HDMI audio device appear in linux.

 

I just installed the new HP ex950 and ran some tests. I tried both slots. It isn't looking good. Expected about 3500 read, 3000 write. Results attached. This is a big let down. Anyone running the ADATA sx8000 pro? I hope there is something I can do about this, otherwise I should have just gone with the ex920 or something.

 

Hard to say at those speeds. Will you really notice any real world difference? I mean I have a hard time telling the difference between nvme and sata ssd performance on most applications.

 

I probably wouldn't, but I paid a premium for the drive and it would like it to perform as it should. I'm just regretting buying it now. If I can get most of my money back from it, I might just buy a ex920 instead. I'll need to make sure others are seeing proper speeds on this laptop first. I don't understand why itsi underperforming though. I'll yest the stick on a couple other laptops to be sure though.

 

FYI, from stackexchange:

CrystalDiskMark is actually a benchmark of a filesysystem on a particular disk - it can't do I/O raw to the disk alone. As such it will always have filesystem overhead in it (not necessarily a bad thing but something to be aware of e.g. because the filesystems being compared might not be the same).

 

I was able to purchase this 180w charger/PS for $48. Took a little over 2 weeks to arrive and works perfectly for my 15+:

https://www.adaptersdepot.com/delta...-f-charger-ac-adapter-free-cord-p-206466.html

 

I can appreciate that - you pay for something and you expect it to deliver. I just do not see the value in paying a premium for performance I will not notice outside of benchmarks. I have the ex920 installed and its a solid drive for the price.

 

And you're getting advertised speeds I assume?

 

They were in line with what the reviews were getting back when I tested. I have used them for a number of builds along with the Adata version.

 

I went for the Addlink S70 1TB drive and CrystalDisk speeds looks good...



But the ATTO benchmarks look a little different (my write speeds are faster than the reads for some unknown reason)...

 

Same here on my 970 EVO. Write speeds ok (2300 MB/s), but read speeds are way lower, around 1200 MB/s.

Maybe the reason is that some units of this laptop have something wrong with the pcie lanes...

EDIT: I've tested an Intel 660p and speeds are ok.

 

See this post: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ongfang-gk5cn6z.815943/page-315#post-10850885

 

Personally I prefer ATTO or AS SSD for benchmark, for the reasons I've already posted in this thread. Try those and see if the speeds are ok.

 

Out of interest, what speeds did you get from Atto with the Intel 660P?

 

Around 1600 to almost 1800 MB/s (on specs, max read and write speeds is 1800).

 

Thanks for the tips @unclewebb I am happy to report that my CPU is clipping along better than ever! Although, setting the task priority of Cinebench to high/realtime was the biggest difference admittedly. To answer your question about scores dropping off after the first run, no that does not happen to me since making the recommended Throttlestop tweaks. My RAM is ADATA 2666MHz CL19. Too bad I didn't get this thing with HyperX CL15!

 

For anyone interested, this laptop supports 32GB SODIMMs just fine:

 

I was getting funny results with ATTO on this drive as well. The drive you have is using the same controller as the HP correct? It should perform pretty much the same. I wonder what is wrong with my system. Maybe I need to try a different driver or something.

 

Not to add more fuel to the drive speed fire, but I'm seeing some confusing results as well. Specs:

Samsung 250GB 970 EVO NVME SSD in Slot 2 (the PCIE-only slot) acting as the boot drive
Samsung 1TB 860 EVO SATA SSD in the 2.5" bay with RAPID Mode enabled
BIOS 1.35
Gaming Center 1.2.2.8 set to High Performance
Latest Samsung drivers & firmware

The 970 is rated at 3,500/2,500 max read/write.
The 860 is rated at 550/520 max read write.

970 EVO Results:



860 EVO Results:



How is the SATA 860 pulling such extreme speeds while the NVME drive isn't as close to it's rated speeds as one would expect? Are these 860 speeds the result of an error on the part of these tests? Sorry if the answer is obvious and I'm overlooking something simple, I'm still a bit of a novice when it comes to higher performance machines and benchmarking.

It is also worth noting these speeds are significantly slower when run in Equilibrium Mode.

 

Your 860Evo is likely setup to do Rapid Mode in which it uses some RAM as a cache and gives you elevated benchmarks. Why your 970 Evo is running slow I'm not sure.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! Rapid Mode is enabled, so that would make sense. In this case, would the numbers for the 860 translate to real world performance or is the Rapid Mode deal sort of a gimmick where-in you'd only ever notice a performance boost under benchmark-level workloads? I only ask because near 5,000MB/s speeds seem insane for a SATA drive rated at 550.

I'm considering the 4-cell battery upgrade and was looking at replacing the 860 2.5" with a 1TB 970 NVME but if it will run at speeds similar or slower than the 860 due to a lack of Rapid capability it almost doesn't seem worth it considering the $250 price tag. Would I be better off going with the NVME version of the 860 since it's $80 cheaper? Just want to make sure I make the right call this time around as I should have done the battery upgrade from the beginning.

Thanks again for any help, this entire thread has been such an incredible resource.

 

Rapid mode looks great on paper but doesn't actually do anything real world. A true NVMe drive will be faster than an 860 Evo with rapid mode, but 99% of users wouldn't notice the difference in speed between that NVMe drive and a "slow" non-rapid mode SATA drive. NVMe is the interface that the drive communicates on, M.2 is the slot that the drive plugs into. I don't think the extra money is worth it and I'd just get a cheaper M.2 drive.

 

Aaah, nice catch that's totally what I meant haha. But thanks for the insight it definitely put my mind at ease!

One more [potentially dumb] question. If I ditched the 2.5 and replaced it with a SATA M.2 in Slot 1 (meaning this drive could only run in this slot), will I still be able to boot from my current drive in Slot 2?

I faintly remember going with my current configuration because people were having problems booting from Slot 2 when there was a drive installed in Slot 1. However, it's very very possible I'm misremembering this, but I feel like I read something along those lines earlier in this thread.

 

I don't know the answer to that question sadly (but I don't see why that would be the case). I am curious if you still have the SATA M.2 drive that came with your laptop? If so, format it and put it in there and see if it boots off of your 970 Evo.

 

I sold it but now really wish I hadn't as that's a great idea
If anyone's running two M.2 drives and booting from Slot 2 (the PCIE-only slot) that would be proof enough! I'll try and do some digging in the meantime.

Edit: For anyone else wondering, it seems like someone a few pages back is in fact booting from Slot 2 while running the stock SATA SSD in Slot 1 (because this is the only slot that supports it). But it would be awesome if anyone else could confirm this directly!

 

New user posting for the 2nd time.

I've been following all 348 pages of this thread. Thanks to the community for many useful information. In addition to the first post, other tips I found to be useful was that volume can be further increased via the Sound Blaster Connect software. The correct link to redeem the intel games.

I have a throttlestop question. Speedshift is enabled in TPL and set to 84. When I play Overwatch, I have to set speedshift to 0 in order to get 10 more FPS. The temps would hit 91 degrees, with a cpu clock of steady 3.9ghz. Already use a -0.125V. Am I doing something wrong?

At speedshift 84, the temps are a cool 60, with the CPU steady at 2.9ghz. BUT I get 10 less frames per second. Anyone else get the same results?

Cinebench is getting 1228.

 

@Phoboy604 - Why not post some screenshots of how you have ThrottleStop setup? I am assuming that you are under volting the CPU Core and CPU Cache and when you are talking about Speed Shift 84 that you are setting the Speed Shift EPP variable to 84 on the main ThrottleStop screen. Does the FIVR data table confirm your EPP setting?

What software is reporting a steady 2.90 GHz? I would enable the ThrottleStop Log File option so you have a record of what speed your CPU is running at while gaming. It would be unusual to see a 1.0 GHz drop in CPU speed just because of your EPP setting. Something else might not be setup correctly.

 

Hey so I am also getting the 40% battery problem where the multiplier gets stuck at 8. I have tried removing the battery and waiting five minutes twice to no avail. The first time the battery wasn't discharged. The second time the battery was discharged but the orange led still lit up when I pressed the power button. This time, I am trying to wait until there is no more led and I am going to reseat the battery again.

If that doesn't work are there any other fixes? Can throttle stop fix this issue? Will a bigger battery fix this maybe?

 

I don’t suppose anyone has any answers (or just thoughts/opinions) in a question of mine?

I want to get this laptop from a UK reseller called PC Specialist (it’s called the Recoil II). I would rather have a display panel that doesn’t use utilise PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to dim the screen.

As far as I can tell, it sounds like users here have reported no PWM on their laptops and also the notebookcheck reviews on this laptop chassis (Schenker XMG Neo 15 and Monster Tulpar T5) also confirm no PWM. According to the notebookcheck reviews, this is with the display panel LGD05C0. Also the Bob Of All Trades review on the Eluktronics Mech 15 G2 confirms the same panel number.

So surely the PC Specialist laptop will also use the same display panel? Or is there a chance Tongfang would use different panels when building the chassis so you don’t know what you’re going to get?

The PC Specialist laptop also uses RTX graphics cards. But again - surely an RTX version of this chassis wouldn’t mean the display panel is changed?

Maybe I’m overthinking this. It’s just such a big purchase!

Anyway, any thoughts appreciated and thanks!

 

Wow, to get a response from the author of Throttlestop, it is an honour.

Yes, CPU and CPU Cache -0.125V.
Yes, main screen Speedshift EPP 84.
Using latest version 8.70.6 of Throttlestop.

Not sure if FIVR data table confirms, will see if I can find it later tonight. The main screen shows the 3.9ghz CPU clock speed when I set Speedshift EPP to 0. It fluctuates if I set it to 84.

I use HWINFO and it's graphs to chart the speeds and heat of the CPU cores. I will run the log and I will post screen caps. Thanks for your help kind sir.

 

For the gtx1x00 series the display from Xmg are the same on PCspecialist.
For the rtx series you have to wait the first sample,but there is an high chance they will not use another display
Just for curiosity,, but why you need a pwm brightness?

 

This is my TS screenshot. I increased the voltage to see if it would help, barely noticable. Are my settings correct?

https://imgur.com/a/wXuyWJT

 

Yeah, with Samsung RAPID mode, it's just caching those SSD blocks into RAM, so he's basically just testing RAM throughput, so it's bogus "bragging rights". But one definite benefit is reduced wear & tear on the SSD, because of the latency/delay of commit writes to the SSD(s) with the RAPID algorithm. And no need to worry about file system corruption due to power outage: it's a laptop with its own built-in UPS - namely, the battery (obviously). I use Romexsoftware's excellent PrimoCache to cache all my drives..infinitely adjustable/tweakable...amazing software....adds a lot of "snap" to the whole system, and cuts way down on wear/excess I/O from early commit writes on my SSDs (I still use 12% overprovisioning raw partitions on my SSDs for garbage collection)

Alright, I've got one for you (off topic) - I added a Samsung Evo 970 NVMe PCIe3 x4 to the NVMe slot, and left the 256GB no-name SATA3 SSD and the 1TB spinner HDD in place. Original Windows 10 Home is on the SATA3 SSD for boot. I want to install WIndows Pro on the NVMe SSD for dual-boot....but before I do that, do I have to open up my laptop yet again (for the umpteenth time) and disconnect the other 2 drives as a precaution? I've heard that even Windows 10 is still prone to wipe any and all other drives & partitions that it finds, no matter what you tell it to do during setup.

 

No you don't. I never unplug the other 14 HDDs/SSDs in my desktop when I reinstall windows 10. When I boot into setup I use diskpart to clean the partition information off of the target drive (can bring up a command prompt with shift+F10). I also click the customize button or whatever it is early in setup so I can chose which drive to install to.

 

Well if you just leave the bottom panel removed during that entire win10 installations process. Then that would save you the bother of having to re-open it back up again.

 

Hi everyone,

I just ordered a 15 inch TongFang chassis (Recoil 2 from PCSpecialist.co.uk)

This will come with the 2070 Max -Q and the 8750H with 2 x 8GB 2400mhz (the OCD in me wants to swap it for 2666mhz already lol)

I was wondering if there's anything to look out for on this laptop, sadly I was unable to upgrade the thermal paste as I bought a pre-built to speed up the process and delivery time, which means I couldnt pay extra for the Cooler MasterGel they offer for better cooling. Have people benefited a lot from upgrading the TIM on this chassis?

Also is there a specific bios that enables more performance?

I heard that some people are using a 230W PSU with it allowing for a little more juice and performance. I tried to find out which model it is but had no luck

I would love to try out a 230w PSU with a bios that would take advantage of it.

Also, I finally gave up on hoping to find more data on the performance of the 2070 MQ so let me know if you guys would like me to test some games/benchs/apps I might be able to help if it gets here in time for the weekend like it is supposed to

Cheers!

 

Current RTX 2070 BIOS are pretty limited, if you use a higher wattage PSU, you may need to mod some settings to allow the whole 230w to be used. GK7CN6S has bechmarks of the full RTX 2070. It might be possible to overclock to full laptop RTX 2070 performance with liquid metal. Stock paste is pretty bad from all the new laptops just coming out of the factory. You might want to try to use the new custom CC from a few forum pages ago.

 

Thanks for keeping such an extensive list of precious data

Ao do all the PSU's work out of the box with no adapters? I'm looking for a 230w-240w for the tonfang 15 inch chassis

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the reply!

I doubt that the custom CC will be enough.. we will need a bios that allows more power to the GPU.

Also no one seems to know if we will be able to flash the 80w TDP MQ cards to the 90w TDP they also come configured in.

Since they are the same chips out of the factory I dont see why it wouldnt work and an extr 10W could reallyhelp those gimped MQ cards especially with sufficient cooling and upgraded PSU

Keeping my fingers crossed!

 

Most laptops have a limit in the wattage it will take, there is a mod somewhere in this forum allow more wattage. 180w is the limit currently set on the 15 inches, 17 inches have a limit of 230w. The adapters are where listed due to having a different size in the charger barrel.

 

Hey Zill -

Not "OCD" at all. Getting the best-performing memory possible for your laptop is a big deal. 2400 MHz memory would be holding your system back. The intel ARK info sheet on the i7-8750H clearly shows this CPU rated for 2666 MHz DDR4 RAM. https://ark.intel.com/products/134906/Intel-Core-i7-8750H-Processor-9M-Cache-up-to-4-10-GHz-

A lot of users (myself included) have had great results with Kingston HyperX DDR4-2666 at CL15 latency. Again, stay with the 2 x 8 GB configuration, at least (or 2 x 16 GB, if you can afford it!), for dual channel operation. Always in pairs, for this beast.

Here it is at Amazon (where I got mine): https://tinyurl.com/y89rbpmr - a very nice bit of kit, and at a great price. My laptop is the Overpowered OP-LP2 GK5CN6Z (Tongfang system board - pretty sure yours is, too), and this is the memory I run in it.

Congrats on getting your laptop with the RTX-2070 Max-Q video card.- that should provide you with some amazing eye candy for years to come.

Word of caution: Do not attempt to change the RGB keyboard color scheme in your laptop's BIOS. Some users have reported that after trying to change theirs, they permanently lost all keyboard backlighting, and were unable to turn it back on. So do NOT try to change it in the BIOS. Change keyboard lighting effects with the "Gaming Center" app (or some such), after you've booted into Win10.

Not sure about which BIOS you should use. I just use the latest-greatest that my OEM provided on their website.

Best of Luck -

- Trev

 

Hey Trev, thanks for the tips! I ordered that very exact same RAM just now! I'll get that 2400mhz ram on ebay and put that towards a nice samsung 970 evo nvme ssd maybe

I don't have high expectations for the 2070 MQ based on the little data I've seen but considering the sleek and thin design of the laptop its still a lot of power to carry around.

I just hope we see a solution to get the 2070 MQ's power limit go a little higher like on the 90w TDP MQ cards.

Now I have to wait even longer for it as they screwed up and didnt dispatched today like they said they would. I hate that part. Waiting for new toys. lol

 

You're welcome!

Regarding the CPU thermal compound: my advice is: leave it alone. Even with the latest-greatest paste, the biggest temp drop you'll see is maybe 5° or 6°C (unless you use liquid metal - which comes with its own serious risks and hassles). It's also very easy to bugger the heads of the CPU heat spreader screws, if you don't have the right tools. And even then, it's still kind of dodgy. It's just not worth it. I'd first recommend using Throttle Stop to undervolt your CPU by -125 mV - both the CPU vCORE and the cache. It works wonders for this CPU...it will still perform at its full, intended potential, but 10° - 12°C cooler (or even more), under full load.


- Trev

 

Are people also undervolting the System Agent and iGPU? Or just core and cache?

 

Anyone think this program will take off? https://www.maingear.com/solutions/edge.php
I think it could use some improvement in what to offer in the program. Barebones would nice, since people would just use their own memory and storage. I think 2 years might be a bit of a stretch for some.

 

Did some pricing checks, Eluktronic MECH-15 G2 RTX 2070 barebones is $1,449.95 https://www.eluktronics.com/MECH-15-G2, Clevo P960EF RTX 2070 barebones is $1,559.00 https://rjtech.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30675, Clevo P960ED RTX 2060 barebones is $1,329.00 https://rjtech.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30674, and the Eluktronic MECH-15 G2 RTX2060 barebones is $1,249.95. Clevo seem to be more expensive due to the custom form factor.

 

ok noted thanks!

Can I just drop in the 2666mhz ram it when it comes or do I need to go in the bios and load optimised settings?

I'll leave the thermal paste alone, just upgrade the Ram for now and see what that 2070 MQ has to offer, the folks in the 2000 series nvidia thread aren't posting very encouraging numbers tho... ;(((

 

Can't reproduce that lid behaviour. Mine is working as ist should. Did you actually, if you dual boot, set windows on boot p1 and enabled secure boot otherwise the bios update will not unfold its optimized values. Needed a couple of tries to realize that. Did it show you the windows boot logo or the xmg boot logo while booting windows ? If you dual boot the difference is easier to tell: when your grub is displayed like nomodeset you don't have updated the bios properly. You can disable secureboot after that.
XMG Bios is as it is: provides lower max CB scores but the new update gave me better cpu benchmark values. I increased the undervolt to 130 form 120 because idle temps were about 50 C.
The balanced mode (former equilibrium mode) gives you an ok but very quiet performance, enthusiast does nothing regarding your cb scores, but cpu-z or geekbench values will increase drastically. I haven't played any game recently, so be careful with this, but it seems enthusiast makes the fans more aggressive so max temps are clipped. On a big compile I did not get higher than 79C. But I have no idea what this means for gaming. I haven't tried yet.
I can reproduce that lid behaviour under Linux (Debian) but setting this "what to do when lid is closed" to "do nothing" or "shutdown" works. In Linux this most likely related to a messed up gpu driver setting.