The Notebook Review forums were hosted by TechTarget, who shut down them down on January 31, 2022. This static read-only archive was pulled by NBR forum users between January 20 and January 31, 2022, in an effort to make sure that the valuable technical information that had been posted on the forums is preserved. For current discussions, many NBR forum users moved over to NotebookTalk.net after the shutdown.
Yes, I cannot comment on the other ones as I don't own nor can test them. I'm sure they didn't do much to change the APTIO V5 BIOSes for the new models though, in which case you can completely follow the guide, but I could be wrong. E.g. they may have moved some strings around where they lock the hidden menus.
So I'm stuck with Ii servizio 'XTU3SERVICE' (XTU3SERVICE) non puo essere avviato. Verificare di avere sufficienti privilegi per avviare i servizi di sistema. Even runing the system as an admin/windows defender fully disabled.
Any ideas to resolve this?
EDIT: I opened the Rev.Center2 with the error in the background, it installed the latest .net, restarted, the software adds Intel ETU and completes.
EDIT2: I don't seem to understand how the keyboard lighting programming work, backlight viewer seems to be stuck, and my keyboard backlight is off even though I have the brightness at max.
EDIT3: So clicking on the gear and the keyboard layout will reset the lighting effect config. That fixed me being stuck with no lights. CPU Usage is not bad at all.
EDIT4: If I were to improve the Keyboard Lighting editor software, I would add a drag able pin to move between colors. Disabling the speed for some of the lighting effect since they don't need speed or don't follow it, i.e. music. The music lighting effect I still don't understand even with tons of vendors trying to explaining, it disables the welcome effect and it does not like to pick up the whole freq. range if you have any other audio enhancers, it has a large CPU draw. Switching in and out of music and user mode seems to be cause the lighting to freeze up.
EDIT5: I think the LED Bar has a colorful mode and a mode to link to charging display from the stock software. I think it would be sick to have it change color based on battery level or most programmable ability if the lighting processor allows that.
EDIT6: Fan control sometimes behaves funny and ignores the settings I set. Don't know why but switching over modes and re-saving a few time got to behave.
EDIT7: Keyboard lighting has no way to save currently?
EDIT8: Turns out, the brightness of the keyboard using the FNs on the keyboard aren't connected with the brightness level on the software, that explains why my lighting would just go black.
EDIT9: Some keyboard lighting modes start with different colors then change to the colors you selected.
EDIT10: Is there a way to prevent the system stopping animations after a period of time? It seems to be have a certain amount of time after the last keypress on the keyboard for the back-lighting to turn off.
Yes I have Geforce Experience installed, used it to update driver. No Nvidia settings either in system tray, in windows control panel, or in right click context menu. Weird.
UPDATE: Solved by going to Microsoft store and downloading Nvidia Control Panel. Odd that it's a separate download now......
RTX owners can't install this Bios right? Was hoping this could fix mini dp issues when running the 90W razer vbios somehow....
My feeling is that the mini dp port is going through intel's igfx, still dont understand the loss of mini dp when using the Tongfang's own 115W vbios tho.. I'll get to the bottom of this, /lost-n-bios is helping
On the GTX version of the TF laptops, searching up NVIDIA Control Panel will not appear, you have to use this link
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/nvidia-control-panel/9nf8h0h7wmlt?activetab=pivot:regionofsystemrequirementstab.
And the software on NVIDIA Geforce Experience automatically installs it on the GTX version.
The problem I see is the RTX Version doesn't auto install it when NVIDIA stated it should already install it without any user action which leads me to believe this is a RTX Laptop wide problem that might need to be reported to the NVIDIA, this problem being fixed could save a ton of people requesting replacements due to NCP not appearing.
No but if one of you guys provides a link to the new RTX BIOS, we can take a look at it and see if the procedure is the same. Looks like you are already working with LNB though.
I think all these display out ports on these TONGFANG chassis go through the discrete GPU actually. I haven't gotten any output to work when I disabled the NVIDIA chip completely.
So...now Intel extrem tuning is installed, I still have the same behavior.I test with Intel extrem tuning launched and no more crash ! BUT I get an error from ThrottleStop.exe saying: Impossible to execute code, because mfc120u.dll is not found....
I got those temps with the stock paste. Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'll repaste with IC Diamond. I also remember reading that some people had difficulties with stripped screws when trying to remove the heatsink, but I can't find those posts again. Any idea how I can avoid that?
Just make sure your screwdriver is the proper size and take your time. Keep your screwdriver perfectly vertical and apply adequate pressure. Your obviously not trying to flex your mobo to much, but you can press decently hard.
From day one with my Overpowered OP-LP2 laptop, I've run with "Fan Boost" ON whenever I game, and I also use Throttle Stop to undervolt the CPU vCORE and cache to -125 mv. None of the cores on my i7-8750H CPU ever goes above 78°C, and my GTX-1060 GPU never goes above 68°C while gaming. This laptop routinely scores 175 single core, and 1,270+ multi core on Cinebench R15, and around 4,000 points on 3DMark's Time Spy benchmark - again, within those same temperature ranges. Today it performs exactly as advertised as it did 3 months ago when I first got it ($799 USD WalMart Special). And all with the stock OEM thermal paste. Maybe I'm one of the very few fortunate ones here. Couldn't be happier with this damned thing.
2666 MHz. Mine came with a single stick of 16GB DDR4-2666 (single channel - ugh!) but it was at a very slow CL19 latency. The importance of CS ("CAS Latency") is a bit overhyped, but CL19 is just sad. I replaced my single 16 GB stick of RAM with 2 x 8GB sticks at CL15 (Kingston HyperX), which provided the very real benefit of dual-channel operation. For many years now I've dismissed the importance of single-channel memory performance vs. dual-channel, but in the case of this laptop, the benefits of dual-channel are enormous. I've never seen anything quite like it. Although not quite as dramatic, the benefits of going from CL19 RAM latency to CL15 are significant in real-world apps, benchmarks & gaming.
I am going to compare CL 19 to CL 15 RAM today, we'll see what the difference really is. But no doubt dual channel is better than single.
I recently tweaked my 1060 overclock (MSI Afterburner) and found that +146 MHz was a safe place to stay, with a +202 MHz VRAM boost. Taking the VRAM clock higher gave no perceivable performance gain in benchmarks or games, and taking the core clock speed higher than +170 was unstable. I re-dialed in my voltage/frequency curve based on my testing.
The GPU also rarely goes above .900mV in games, and sits between 1600 and 1800MHz. But stress tests will take the core clock up to 1950MHz and 1.03V power consumption while remaining stable.
I also tried boosting the core voltage with
this guide: and while it worked (Afterburner's core voltage slider was unlocked), I saw zero difference in performance or power draw so it seems it there is another limitation such as BIOS.
Disclaimer: I only mess with the overclocking because of the huge amount of thermal headroom this laptop has for my 1060. It is generally not advisable for the average user.
The only way to get increase volume without any more programs:
Open Sound Blaster connect, set Smart Vol to Loud (note EQ can effect output sound for different Freq, same with bass and dialog+)
@Blebleuh might want to add this to the mega thread.
I might be unlucky as mine goes over 90 degrees and thermal throttles when I play Overwatch and Apex Legends. I'm using Intel XTU to undervolt by -0.140v. Undervoltage, 3.9ghz cpu, temps all confirmed by hwinfo. Fan on Max, Equilibium mode, 32gig dual channel goldkey RAM.
Will try some Artic MX4 to see if it helps.
Sidenote: Throttlestop was preventing my CPU from clocking to 3.9. XTU allowed the CPU to clock up and down depending on needs. For example. League of Legends vs other players the clock speed hovered up and down around 3.5 but it is maxed out when playing against computer. Temps are 77 in League.
Thank you for posting this, it seems very interesting.
I've browsed the last few pages of the linked win-raid thread, but i am still not sure if this modded bios offers options to performance gain for photo editing under Win10 (Photoshop and Lightroom)?
Bus
evice:Function: 0x0:0x1D:0x0
Vendor ID
evice ID
: 0x8086:0xA330 "This relates to pci express root#9" PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_A330&SUBSYS_10431D05&REV_F0\3&11583659&0&E8
Class Code: 0x30400
The details view of this entry contains further information.
Use a driver finding software like Driver Booster 6 to find the rest of the missing drivers/replace outdated drivers and see if the error code reappears or not.
Has anyone else had an issue with Speed Shift not working correctly in ThrottleStop? Setting SST from 0-190 Has little to no affect. CPU always stays locked at 40-39mhz... One I'm in the 200's It starts to lower FID, but at 255, I'm still getting 15-18mhz
It appeared to work fine until I installed Geforce experience...
Results are in, comparing CL19 and CL15 2666MHz RAM! I used only synthetic benchmarks here to better quantify the results, and honestly, real world tests yield no perceivable difference! We are talking about very small improvements, but I am happy to now have the best this chassis (17") can offer.
Tl:dr
Tighter timings (lower latency) in RAM do give a marginal boost to CPU performance, but if your GPU is already the bottleneck (such as in most games) you will likely see no difference in framerates. If you already have cheap RAM, don't worry about upgrading unless you know it will benefit your work. But if you have the choice of either at a similar price, the faster stuff might be worth it.
Here's what we're comparing: (both 2x8GB)
ADATA 2666MHz CL19
Kingston HyperX Impact 2666MHz CL15
So first of all, my pride and joy.
Cinebench is helpful because it focuses on CPU functions and is quick to run several tests in succession.
Finally 1300!! (just +3) And this is a 4 fps boost over my previous best OpenGL score, but Cinebench probably has some CPU bottlenecking, unlike most games.
In my "stock" Cinebench runs without excessive optimization, the new RAM gave a 4-5fps gain in OpenGL bench, and an 8-9 mark improvement in CPU bench.
The AIDA64 memory bench yielded slightly faster read and copy times with CL15 RAM. This was also confirmed in my Passmark test.
But as for graphics, I'm not seeing any difference in tests such as 3DMark Time Spy and Fire Strike. Games show no perceivable difference, but again, the GTX 1060 is already running at max anyway, with 99-100% GPU usage.
This is very limited comparison, but hopefully it helps someone make a more informed decision when choosing RAM. By the way, I found this set of HyperX for only $111.18 shipped, so I am really quite pleased!
Hello,
Has anyone tried the extended GETAC GK5CN-00-13-4S1P-0 battery on the GK5CN5Z?
I'm a bit worried about the 15 volts instead of the 11 volts of the original battery.
If you are having a problem, post a screenshot of ThrottleStop while idle. Use a default EPP setting of 128. What C0% is being reported when idle? This should be down around 0.5% to 1.0%. If there is a significant load on your CPU, it will not lower the MHz. Open the Task Manager and find out what is causing the problem.
If I don't undervolt I can pull up to 82w... It gradually goes down the more I undervolt... 0 = 82w, -.50 = 72w, -.100 = 68w... I was hoping for big numbers but the most I was able to get was 1292 CineBench.
@unclewebb Ended up being nvidia related. The moment I would install the newest driver my CPU utilization would instantly run at 20%. Looked in task manager and it showed "Nvidia Container" at the very top bouncing around at 15-20%. I was using windows 1803 as Eluktronics recommended. Tried three clean installs with no success. Updated to 1809 and I'm cured.
I tried pretty much everything imaginable, but since I wasn't reaching the higher levels of power draw, I don't think it mattered. Speed shift set to 1, and undervolt around -140Mv on the core (-125Mv on cache) seems to be about right. I actually can't repeat 1300 today so there might have been an element of luck. Fans are set on turbo boost. Set the Cinebench task priority to high or real time.
That makes total sense, thanks for clarifying that for me.
As others have said, any score in the upper 1200's is ridiculously good, no need to stress out over it (like I have!).
EDIT: New score of 1305...
I lowered the undervolt to -155Mv or -160Mv and increased the minimum cache ratio to 38.
EDIT 2: Added Throttlestop settings, maybe someone can tell me if I'm doing anything stupid. Also, I typically run my system with a less aggressive tuning. This is just for benchmarks.
@ZaiArgylle
Luck definitely plays a part. I had probably 8 back to back runs at 1292 one days. The next day with settings completely the same I'm sittung in the 1270's
Thanks
@unclewebb , cranking both up to 192 made the EDP throttle disappear. I was getting it even on idle. Now getting steady 1290+ CB scores with no throttling. As always, thanks for your help.
I've got a GK5CN5Z, What a strange laptop - if I don't have the Gaming Centre installed then the fans do not run at all! Surface temp near the F3 key gets to 60 Celsius. CPU gets into the 90s just idling. Office/Advanced seems to be the best way to keep fans on and manage heat for this particular unit.
Benches and runs games well though, and can't complain about the price.
For anyone wanting to cool their tongfang turd laptops like me. I stay in the 70's C even gaming, no throttle constant 3.9ghz with 6 cores. I usually only hit 40's Watts on load. Get rid of Gaming center only use MYAPP.
Steps:
1. Kryonaut thermal paste
2. While repasting take the plastic tape strips off where it connects fan and heatsink*helps trust me*
3.Throttlestop My Settings: Setup as task every time comp starts.
HomeScreen: SpeedShift 0/Speedstep checked/C1E checked. Nothing else checked.
FIVRScreen: NonTurbo Lock: 8/TurboRatioLimits: 5 cores-41 6 core-39/UnlockCPUVol -200mv/CPUCache -140mv/SystemAgent -110mv
TPLScreen: disable clamps/50 Watt power max/60 watt short power max/turbo time 128sec
I get a steady 1270's in cinebench with these settings.
Can people post their overclocks for gtx 1060 for me? I can only manage 10676 in firestrike. I actually scored 10838 on a maxq dell g7 before I had this one. I thought the standard gtx was faster than the max q.
how does removing the tape help? if your speed shift is at 0, isn't your cpu always running at 3.9ghz even at idle?
My temps are over 90degrees when I play Overwatch and Apex even with an undervolt of -0.140v. I'm going to try some Artic MX4 paste to see if it helps.
With mine set to 0 It is not maxed out. Repaste alone I saw about 5 to 10 C difference with kryonaut which has 12.5mw dissipation. Also get rid of that tape. I belive it just directs it through the heat pipes but if you take them off it has more open surface area to dissipate heat. Try my setting on TS.
I understand that truely. There are give and takes with thin laptops and the humans havent figured that out yet. We want high performance with no heat. So what we do with each new generation of cpu and gpu we make them faster and add more heat rather than make them faster and trim them down. I mean that instruction set can make or break a cpu or gpu, not just the amount of raw power it has. Like the RTX series with a ai chip on it, why not just better the instruction sets and maximize performance rather than look for a power increase for efficiency. I wouldnt do this if I didnt get my laptop for $600. I bought it for 799 got a credit card to get $200 cash back, otherwise I wouldnt have it.
The original thermal past was so thick and gunky. I put on some fresh Artic MX4 then played Overwatch. Temps peaked at 85. Use to get up to 93 thermal throttling. Both with -140 undervolt via Intel XTU. Glad I put in the effort to repaste. Worth while difference. Would like to get it below 80 but that's just greed.
Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
