TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Before you go and tear the thing apart I would try to reach out to the company you got it from to see if it is covered under warranty. I wouldn't go and explain to them what your son did with his headphones but I would say that it just quit working and they should look into it.

 

RTX 2070 max q review
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schen...-Tongfang-GK5CQ7Z-Laptop-Review.415117.0.html

 

Thanks, but it's a Walmart OverPowered model and I really don't want to send it off and go through all that inconvenience, possibly having them screw it up worse, when it should be a simple enough fix. Especially since it is a separate daughterboard, not even the main logic board.

I'll keep looking for a matching part. In the meantime, he can use a USB audio adapter.

 

Nice, I was waiting for an elaborate review on the RXT 2070 version.

Anybody knows where to find this ICC profile? The review does not give any hint where to download it (Found it! Silly me).

 

I'm considering this from PC Specialist to replace my old 870m GTX Clevo machine, considering the local Clevo reseller (MM vision, Denmark) hasn't stocked up any new models and the need is becoming somewhat critical.

A couple of questions:

- Is there any real point in paying extra for the 2070 max-Q vs regular RTX 2060? Seems to be the same or even less performance.
- How's the fan noise?
- Would you, overall, recommend it right now or would you buy another current laptop given the choice?

 

This was the bastard. I've uninstalled it and Have Disk from a 418.81 package. But yesterday I updated all the nvidia drivers and still 1W, so you could try also with the latest release.

 

Depends on your use case I guess. I have the RTX 2060 from PCS and it's got plenty of power to run pretty much anything at max on the 1080p screen. My temps are fine, nothing over 80, but I've been lucky with the silicon lottery for once and can UV 150mv across the board with no issues using Throttlestop.

If you are looking for 1440p or 4k gaming on an external monitor you might want to shell out for the 2070 with its larger GPU memory.

Noise wise it feels quieter than other laptops I've had, but the missus can hear a fly fart two streets away so I'm never going to win that argument.

Overall, happy, and would recommend.

 

So for your version, is it 15 inches? Then are the keyswitches on it blue (clicky), or brown (muted / silent)? It would be nice to hear some confirmation.

 

Yes 15" with non-clicky keyboard switches.

 

Thanks, I already don't have this device installed, I don't know if it is because I have the nvidia 1060, because I installed standard drivers directly from nvidia when I installed windows or what.


P.s: how do you have the device manager in dark? Are you using a new beta of windows? My control panel and all the sub-menus are still almost white.

 

Really? They said to me today they were not available! Could you confirm if its like the ones in this comparison video?

I think that my be dark mode on 1809

 

Hmm.. Try uninstalling all the nvidia drivers, then clean the rest with DDU.
Restart.
Download latest nvidia driver, choose custom installation and make sure USBC is checked and it should work. No, I just use custom uxthemepatcher theme.

 

The key switches are definitely brown and make no discernible clicking noise.

 

Amazing news! May have to pick one up to replace my ageing i5 ultrabook

 

Hello, I have a problem with led light bar after installing bios 1.09 and ec 1.38.09 from XMG, in control center 2.0.1.3 disappeared led light bar settings. In control center 1.2.3.4 from XMG I do not have these settings either.

 

Thanks, unfortunately I tried but nothing changed, I’m suspecting that it’s normal with older GTX graphic cards. Does anyone with a GTX 1060 have the Usb-C voice in the device manager? For me it’s not a big issue, the laptop is working good anyway.
Beautiful, I hope Microsoft improves the dark mode with next releases to look like your.

 

the center crased after I selected the dGPU option, it stopped working altogether even after restart, I had to go back to 2.0.1.3, but that one still has XTUservice enables, mnight be interfering with mt TS settings, can I just disable the XTU settings being pushed by the GC?

 

I have the GTX1060 model, Windows 10 Home, 1809 build 17763.379.

 

I have a question, after a few minutes of not typing on the keyboard, the keyboard backlight turns off. Is this how it works or can you turn on the permanent keyboard backlight?

 

I haven't been follow the thread lately, but did they ever update the bios to change default function of the f keys? I'm annoyed that I have to hold the fn key all the time just to change volume or brightness. Or is there a workaround through some programs instead?

 

I have asked this too and would REALLY like to have this ability. My new work laptop (XPS 9570) working this way and it is SOO much nicer.

 

My new battery came in and now i want to buy a 1tb NVMe to replace the storage I'm losing.
What do you guys think? Best pick here? I edit video on this and wout like to be able to to put footage and install and run games from either drive. My OS is on a 1tb ex950.

660p -$117
ex920 - $140 ( +$23)
ex950 - 175 (+$35) [+$58]

 

Id go for the EX920. 660p can end up slower than a hard drive once it's close to being full and the EX950 is already pretty close to the EX920 so save the money

 

Ended up just ordering the 1TB version of this with coupon code 17DACCMM for $125 shipped.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=twister_B07MVQ17L8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Toshiba 3D TLC NAND and Phison E12 controller, I'll give it a shot. supposed to be 3400/3000

 

Thanks for posting that link and coupon. I just ordered one-at that price it is worth a try.

 

Is the BIOS for the GK5 same for the GK7? I was planning to download from here: https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_NEO_15_XNE15M18/BIOS/

I own an Eluktronics Mech-17 G1R (GK7CP0S) with an i7-8750h and RTX 2060 and I'm planning to update the bios to fix the display not showing bug when the lid is closed.

 

I have tried both the Gelid Extreme and Kryonaut. Thermal throttles on both! I'm running the max undervolt I can manage on both CPU and GPU, still hitting 97C in CSGO. The delta among the cores is high as well, 7C even with the foil under the screw. what could be the issue? I'll try reducing the power limits next.
am I doing something wrong?

 

Any idea know how to fix the keyboard light? My left side doesn’t work anymore. I tried installing serveral Gaming Centers and Load Optimized Defaults in BIOS. Happend today when got home from work.

 

This is most likely a problem with an uneven heatsink surface or a bad paste job. Clean the CPU and add a small amount of paste, clamp down the heatsink and then take it back off to see how the paste spreads. If it's really uneven, you can use sandpaper to even the heatsink surface out. Also, check to see if the heatpipes are transferring the heat all the way to their ends near where the fans are. When you're pasting with the Gelid, use the spreader and spread it over both the entire die and the contact on the heatsink surface.

 

Anyone repasting also should set the heatsink down then do a few turns of each screw 1-7 and keep going around till they are all tight. Most people just crank each screw down till its tight then move on to the next one till its tight etc. I think you will find that your CPU temps will be more evenly matched by doing them little by little.

 

Got the op15+ laptop, does anyone know if there is a bios enabling xmp profile sélection for the memory speed? Got the crucial ballistix 2666 MHz and it is not recognized at such and only run at 2400mhz

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I've tried to find 4-cell battery but they're all out of stock now. Would you mind sharing where can I buy the battery?

 

Eluktronics. $100 shipped. It arrived quick.

https://www.eluktronics.com/4-cell-batt-mech-15-g2-mech-17/

 

I wish, but no. You're stuck at 2400.

 

Is anyone using NVMe drives in both slots? Do you get full speeds for both?

 

Thanks. Too bad they only ship within US.

 

Got a new problem.

I just got an HP Ex900 m.2 ssd. I'm pretty sure it's nvme. Anyways, I've installed the drive it to the top slot with the factory drive in the lower slot. It booted up fine. I then format the drive and it is recognized in Windows. This is where all the issues started to occur.

I want to upgrade my current OS drive to the nvme, as I understood that the factory drive is the slower sata. I created a USB boot drive for a cloning software and tried to clone the drive. For some reason the laptop now cannot boot past post. I can't get into the bios and it obviously won't boot into Windows. It's stuck on the boot up splash screen. The only way I can fix this is by removing the nvme drive. Heck, how can even do a new installed of Window if I can even post?

 

Is it because the system tries to boot from the new (and empty) nvme drive?

I cloned the system to the new nvme drive in Windows then removed the original stat drive. This method worked fine.

 

That's why I thought at first, but that doesn't explain why it won't post. Well after some fiddling I was able to boot into the cloning software with both drives. I had to change some bios settings with only the old drive installed. Then I got the laptop to boot into the software with the old drive in, after which I put in the new drive. I was able to clone the old drive to the new one. I removed the old drive and the USB, and same issue. Can't boot, no bios, doesn't seem to post. Only the splash screen shows up and just stays there.

How were you able to clone your drive through windows? Thought you can't clone it while the drive is in use.

 

Do you happen to have an external USB storage drive? Or, how much free space do you have on the original 256gb SSD?
You can use aomei backupper to create an image for from inside windows, and then restore that image file to the new drive, all within windows.

 

I can get an external drive ready. I only added a few programs onto the default drive. So I have about 150-180gb free.

The problem is I cannot boot with that drive installed. No bios or window boot up.

Update: I put the new drive in another laptop and I was able to boot into the drive just fine. Windows booted with all the system files intact. So I think there's an issue with the bios and this specific drive.

 

What drive is it?
Edit:
I see, it's the ex900. I'd try again.
Try this:
With both drives installed, boot to the SATA drive.

Use minitool partition wizard and format the new drive with the same settings as the OS drive.

Use Aomei Backupper and create an image of the OS drive (save it to the OS drive).

Use Aomei Backupper and Restore the image to the new drive.

Shut down and remove the SATA drive.

Attempt to boot on new drive.

 

The thing is I cannot boot with the new clone drive installed, even with the factory drive installed. I can boot to windows with the clone drive on my other laptop though, so the drive works. Can't format it because my other laptop only has one m.2 slot.

 

Have you tried switching the bios from UEFI mode to LEGACY or viceversa?
If you want to format the drive you can use gparted booted from an USB pendrive.

 

Have you tried updating your BIOS?

Also, try following this guide to create a USB bootable Windows PE disk. Include Backupper and Partition Assistant when creating it.

Windows AIK kit: https://www.backup-utility.com/help/aik.html

Bootable us guide: https://www.backup-utility.com/help/aik.html

Once this is done, remove the factory drive and put in the new drive, boot from the USB disk and format the drive.

It is really strange that you can't boot from the drive since it obviously works. You tried it in either slot?

 

First of all, hello everyone, it has been a pleasure to find this post haha I'm reading all the thread, I've read 120 pages today

I am from Spain and own a PCS Recoil II 1060 (GK5CN6Z) with 16gb(2x8) 2666 Mhz Corsair Ram, I bouth it in october if my memory does not decive me and i had problems with it.

I ordered a RMA because the backligth of any keys stayed on in color green when i turned off, this problem solved changing the entire keyboard. The other problem, and the most important, when i am ussing the battery of the laptop, the rendiment is very poor, poor like all is bugged and slow, the point of the mouse move slow, youtube videos do not reproduce well or the windows menu can not open well. They changed my motherboard and update my bios and gaming center.

The rma lasted more than two months, I sent the laptop in January and I received it on Monday ...

Well ... Now the problem occurs when the battery level drops below 38% and I do not know what to do...

My Bios version is N.1.06 (i think from PCS because they updated it) and my EC is 1.37.09.

Any suggestions? I will try to record a video and post it.

Forgive me for my English if I have not explained myself well, as I said, I am Spanish and it has been a long time since I spoke in English.

Thanks for everything!

 

I had the same problem where the laptop was unusable below a certain amount of battery. Follow Bob's video ( ) on how to install throttlestop and get it to run every time the laptop starts up. Go to the FIVR window and check "Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits" under the memory section. You'll need an additional file to do this but if you search this thread you should find all the steps. Doing this correctly will fix your issue.

 

Tried both slots. Does not boot with either slot, nor if the factory drive is installed. I don't think I need to reformat the drive as I am able to boot into it just fine from another laptop. Windows works, nothing is missing or corrupt.

My bios is a modified version of 1.08 with a bunch of unlocked settings, possible for another brand? But it seems to work fine. Default bios settings doesn't help.

 

I'll check the settings. Not sure why the default bios settings would work with the factory drive, but not a clone of it.

 

Could be the modified bios as well