TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

45W nets you probably 3.2GHz. It's impossible to get 3.9GHz on just 45W at current 14nm

 

Just to add: almost every laptop cannot cool >60w CPU while GPU is under heavy load

 

funny thing is, almost every decent gaming laptop can cool a heavy loaded GPU easily at far higher TDP (>180W) but the CPU struggles at even just 60-70W. My previous Alienware 17R4 can cool 180W GTX1080 running at around 70C when gaming, and my current RTX 2070 full power 115W can run at just 75C when gaming. However, CPU on both laptops hit over 80C easily, climb into 90s and thermal throttle at half the power of the GPU..

 

It's Intel...what to expect...

 

Both GPU and CPU have LM applied. While I will never reach 3.9Ghz, I prefer a cooler chip, else my CPU reach 85c+ temp range, when both the GPU and CPU are on full load. GPU reach 70c Max.

 

Hi! I have new Bios update for the GK5CP0Z https://mega.nz/#!WwpB3YQZ!lk2V-N2aCFLeUr0c50C-ioFhS4zwQfWO2qElZSXkpig

 

OMG i fixed problem with illumination. 2 monts ago under heavy load playing in COD i got a problem with wild stroboscope upper 10% of brightness. I thinked its screen problem or something melted and trying to remove panel broke it, because i search all internet and dont find any instruction how to do it. Screen keeps on 4 piece of adhesive tape from left and right side and to remove screen need to know where exactly they placed, if you not, you like me pull it to break. IDK is allowing to heat throught screen. After that i buy another screen from aliexpress for 70$ with very good condition and little white spot noticeable only on white background, no big deal for that low price. Original LGD05C0 but contrast even better than previous.

In short, new screen do not solve this problem and i noticed sometimes i can add brightness to 20% without problem and even to 30% after sharp jumps with brightness slider. And solve my problem with adding +10 and -10% bright from 0 to 30 after 40 after 50 etc. It tooks is about 10 minutes. I fixed hardware problem with soft. So far, everything is normal.

I think problem in some chip giving 3.3V to screen but i dont have good specialists where i live to localize problem, lets see what happens later.

 

Yes, this is a TongFang chassis, to the point that they even use the same battery. They also use the 62wh battery that GK5CN6Z uses. There is webcam, but it is located at the bottom of the screen, not on the top.

Not true, this chassis started selling on Amazon in early November, check this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HoMei-i7-9...oard/dp/B0811WYCZZ?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1

This version was availabe since Feb 2019, very similar chassis with minor tweaks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HoMei-i5-8...ting/dp/B07NPPP67K?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1

 

That's not the same though. This one has an aluminium chassis.

 

While you may be able to temporarily increase your screen to max brightness, assuming we have the same issue it will come back. Sorry.

 

Saw this paste on Aliexpress and thought y'all might wanna check it out

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...hweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_55

Seems to be thicker than Kryonaut but not IC Diamond levels of thickness

 

That is GK5-X aka Illegear Prodigy

 

True, they are very similar but still different laptop. Apart from smaller battery and large keyboard area, this one really look like XMG fusion 15.

 

I got myself a small GK5CP6Z (9570H + 1660Ti) as an emergency backup since my MSI 16L3 requires some time and it's good to have second machine there.

First impressions (day 2)
Positive:
1. Build quality. It's feels really tough, no creaking, no flex. Really sturdy thing, this is something I was looking for.
2. Weight and size. It's really light for it's performance
3. Cooling. It can handle 2.5Ghz on passive
4. Storage. NVME, M2 Sata and 2.5 Sata is good enough for me!
5. Small and light power brick. I have 180W version which is quite light, a little over 0.4kg
6. Performance. Also, for it's size, this thing is fast

Negative/concerns:
1. Fan noise when doing web/office. It looks like fans can have 5 different speeds only in Gaming Center and even level 1 is quite loud for office/web, it annoys people I'm speaking with. I don't mind it getting loud under load, but I miss some kind low-RPM profile for office/web. Much more thermally-challenged Dell Inspiron will remain really quiet in such scenario. The best thing I achieved is disabling fans totally in the Gaming Center and limiting CPU to 2.5Ghz. Temperature hovers around 65 on passive cooling most of the time while performance is good enough for office/web. Sometimes, once temperature will reach 80 fans will eventually kick all of sudden in on level 2-3 and remain active until temp goes back to ~55.
2. Highly uneven temperatures on CPU cores under heavy load. Differences are as high as 95 vs 75. Paste is still stock, but I wonder if heatsink is uneven/badly shaped. I have only Kryonaut right now so I'm not repasting since it would get pumped out rather quickly.
3. External display stuttering unless Intel iGPU disabled in device manager. I know it's a common thing for Optimus notebooks
4. One port is USB 2.0, such a pity.. but I can live with it, since it has at least one USB-C, but..
5. ..No Thunderbolt 3

I wonder if MAG-15 / QC5 would be even better choice, but it's unavailable in my country unfortunately

 

Most Tongfangs have uneven core temp, but not until 20c. Consider repaste

 

I re-applied stock paste and difference on cores is reduced from 20c to 5c-10c!

 

So I have a GK5CN6Z I picked up last holiday season, did a memory swap and repaste and it's been great.

But this past month the keyboard has started sporadically triggering random keys (F11, capslock, wifi, sleep) after which the keyboard shuts off rgb and stops taking input so I have to power off the laptop and hope it comes back up.
Sometimes it takes a few times and just boots to the bios with the keyboard still black and unresponsive, but then randomly it'll boot all lit up and function for a couple hours. Gave it a fresh windows install and it's doing the same thing.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Does anyone have pictures / video of popping out the mobo so I can get at the keyboard connector?

 

Here is a video from Brother @B0B's YouTube channel. You've probably already seen it. I think that is the most teardown I have seen on video for this product. I don't find one with motherboard removal. Although, there's hardly anything left to the imagination since everything is easily accessible. Since you have already repasted, you have a few ribbon cables, screws, etc. But not a lot of work past the heat sink removal.



I've been curious about how to remove the keyboard. One of these days I am going to do it just out of curiosity. When I do I will make a video, but that doesn't help you much at the moment.

 

Hey guys, not sure how many of you have been less than thrilled with the audio. I have had a ton of crackling and popping nonsense with the Realtek drivers provided for this system, as well as the UWP crap drivers from Windoze Update Catalog. Well, guess what. Used DDU and removed all of the audio driver crap for Windoze 10 UWP feces and the audio is much better. (No, I do not have a surprised look on my face about that because UWP software and drivers are always trash.)

You can use this generic Realtek HD Audio driver from the ASROCK web site. (Works with any onboard audio from Realtek.)

http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Drivers/All/Audio/Realtek_Audio(v8619_FF00).zip

This will also give you the legacy Realtek "Sound Manager" control panel in your system tray, which is FAR SUPERIOR to the broken and buggy Windoze Store trash. The legacy control panel gives you more granular control, and easy access to audio devices by simply right-clicking the tray icon.



Remember to "Disable all sound effects" (sometimes called "audio enhancements" depending on the driver version) for the cleanest audio. The "enhancements" degrade the audio quality and cause audio artifacts. And, it still supports "Spatial sound" plugins if you use those.

 

Gonna give this a shot. Did you not install the soundblaster software?

edit: Isnt DDU for display drivers?

 

Can be used to uninstall audio driver also

 

Yep got it. Can confirm its working much better. Although i did use one of the presets and tuned the equalizer to my liking. Sp far no popping on my device.

Thanks a ton @Mr. Fox

 

Awesome. Glad you found it useful, too.

No. It is just UWP bloatware that doesn't really add any value that I can see. It does nothing to help or hinder audio quality. If you want something from Windoze Store that makes a minor improvement, get this instead. It works fine with the built-in Realtek audio.



Also, in case you did not already notice it... the highlighted button...

Gives you a graphic equalizer with sliders...

 

Yup i used the rock preset and tuned the equalizer from there. Personally find that it has the best sound for my taste

 

Rock music is always the best for my tastes, regardless of the preset.

 

I'm aiming to get Hyper X Impact 2666mhz CL15 sticks in the next month or so

However i could get the 3200mhz CL20 kit for a decent price but i'm not too sure if this unit can take these rated speeds.

Thoughts?

 

I have G.SKILL 3000 in mine. I tightened up the timings to CL16, 1T. But, that is with an unlocked BIOS. With the stock BIOS I doubt you would get it to run faster than the stock SPD default value, which is either 2133 or 2400. 2666 and up is usually in an XMP profile and I am not sure how you would apply the XMP profile with a stock BIOS with that option hidden. There is a possibility the BIOS might auto-detect and apply it, but I would be surprised if that actually worked. I've never seen that work before.

 

Hmm alright. Then i guess im sticking to 2 16GB sticks of 2666 CL15

Right now i still got bigger problems with my C states and battery life plus a keyboard backlight issue

 

I confirm this issue. Until I uninstalled NVIDIA USB (NVidia eXtensible Host Controller) driver power draw was 12W-20W at idle and battery life was poor.

 

Tried to uninstall it from device manager but it reappeared after a restart. Still idling at around 11-15w

Gonna DDU and try again with NVCleaninstall

edit: Its the nvidia USB3.10 eXtensible host controller -1.10 (microsoft)

I have no idea how to get rid of it as it keeps coming back after every restart

 

Yup, it keeps coming back. Even without restart when I connect something to USB / USB-C. I don't mind it coming back, but I wonder how to make it stop drawing so much power..

 

How did your power draw down on battery?

 

From 12-20W to less than 1W. Battery life from 1.5h to 3-4h. Idle temps from 45-50 to 38-42 + fans off.

 

@Blebleuh OP updated

 

damn i still get like at minimum 11w

How did you get it down that low? If its the Type C thing then i cannot do anything about it. It just keeps coming back

 

Does anyone have a link to any form of replacement keyboard (cable & full board) for the GK5CN6Z (15")?

Doesn't have to be OEM or anything, just something that would work to get me up again.

 

I uinstall it (Nvidia USB3.10 eXtensible host controller does the trick for me) manually everytime I'm working on battery... :/

 

https://superuser.com/a/968749

Could you try this. I used this to stop windows from updating my igpu driver might help your situation too.

 

Unfortunately it didn't help. This is weird because after uninstalling and blocking device didn't appear in manager but power draw was high and I wasn't able to "fix" it anymore because I couldn't uninstall device anymore. The only way of fixing power draw for me is to uninstall device within a single session :/ Sometimes even after "refreshing" devices and Nvidia eXtended Host Controller reappearing power draw remained low.

 

Hi, I recently got a version with iy 9750h and rtx2060 from Turkish manufacturer Monster: https://www.monsternotebook.com.tr/tulpar/monster-tulpar-t7-v19-4/
I am very happy overall, have a couple questions.
1) my space button feels a bit weird, is it safe to replace the keys since it is a mechanical keyboard? Or not? Read the OP but it was still unclear how "destructive" the process is for me
2) More technical one,
I undervolted my cpu and cache -125mv. I believe this is enough since that was the one heating.
GPU usually lies around 70ish degrees when gaming. Then I said, why not OC it then?

When I fiddled around I realised that GPU is not reaching to higher core clocks than 1300-1350mhz, being capped with power limit. Even when I do a OC Scan on afterburner, the power it does not go higher than that. So should I undervolt then? Will that improve my performance allowing core clock to go higher? If so how much is considered safe (similar to 100-125 mv on CPU)?

Thanks again to everyone in the thread, the content was really helpful!

 

Turbo mode not available? If not then you should do custom voltage frequency curve aka undervolt (start with +120MHz core clock with +15 increments)

 

I have office mode, which has standart and eco underneath.
And I have Game mode, which enables "Turbo Mod" option in Turkish version of control center, but translated as "fan boost" when English language selected.
I assumed it only forces maximum fans, and wouldn't prefer enabling it. Does it also increase the power limits? Isnt it only eco, standart and game modes change power limits?

 

Screenshot?

 

https://imgur.com/ffZECyU
Here it is. Advanced only gives quiet middle and loud fan options in Office Mode.

 

did any1 figure out if its possible to script the keyboard lightning binds (fn + f6/f7) with Autohotkey aswell? controlling everything with just the press of one button respectively (basically a fn lock) would be too smooth..

 

You don't have Turbo mode then

Consider GPU undervolting

 

@Mr. Fox any idea on how to go about with that Nvidia USB C driver? Even using Nv slimmer and unticking the USB C box, it still remains

 

I've found multiple threads related to high idle power usage with Optimus in general on multiple laptops but no still solution found. Only ideas are to make sure that dGPU is not active. In our case it is not active. I'm sure no app is running on dGPU, yet power draw is high. Some users suggested that uncore power reading is false, but that's not the case since I see significant difference in temperatures as well.

Interesting thing I found is when I actually use dGPU, open Blender and just pan around the scene view, that forces dGPU to do some work and it... lowers CPU power draw to around 9W and reduces overall temps a bit. This is so weird

 

I am sorry, having trouble determining what you are looking to do from the context of the thread. Could you please elaborate a bit?

 

Yea same thing noticed it when i was benching AC and tabbed out for a few mins