TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Ah sorry. So some people have discovered that the Nvidia USB C driver is causing package power to be really high on battery. For me im getting close to 15w idle power draw on full battery saver. Uninstalling in through device manager does get rid of it at all and it keeps reappearing.

I've done a full DDU with nvslimmer and unticked the Nvidia USB C option but it keeps coming back

 

OK, that makes sense. Thank you for explaining what you were wanting to do. I have never really paid any attention to that since battery run time and power draw is never a point of focus for me.

Windows 10 is going to try to fix things whether you want it to or not. It is designed to behave that way. If you uninstall the driver it's always going to put it back. Have you tried right clicking on the NVIDIA USB devices and choosing "Disable Device" instead of removing the driver? That might work more effectively.

 

After deleting nvidia type c and 3.0 things I still get 15watt consumption on idle. Weird.

 

Try right-click and disable instead of delete. If you delete them they are just going to automatically come back after Windows reinstalls the drivers. That behavior is by design and it's good except when you're trying to do something abnormal.

 

Can anyone reupload OP-LP2 bios and EC? On their site available only bios and i need EC. I haved that, but deleted long ago. Link on mega.nz is broken.

 

With 1.35.09 EC fan control is most adequate. 1.33 from mechrevo is accept settings after 10 min common running after saving settings. 1.37-1.38 from XMG is almost always running on 10% and more and fan settings does not influence on fan at all. I thinked i can resolve problem with system shutdown when GPU temperature exceeds 84*C but most good solution is 100% fan. But without stock EC fan noise in browser or something like is very annoying. Will be good i can reduce GPU TDP to 60w but without hw programmer its impossible, unfortunately. I did repaste from conductonaut to kryonaut, because LM is caused many problems than lower temps, but problem still here, except variant with 100% fan running in loads. I buyed IC diamond with thermal pads, hope its help with polishing a heatsink.

 

You can cap the clocks and voltage rather than reduce the TDP. The end result will be basically the same. You can also use the NVIDIA Control Panel to manually set the Intel iGPU as the primary device and/or disable the NVIDIA dGPU in Device Manager to force the use of the Intel iGPU.

 

Thanks. For some reasons i dont think from that side. I trying to set lower temps with asus gpu tweak ll but that cause much perfomance drop.

 

The most effective way is using the voltage curve tool with MSI Afterburner. This works extremely well. Here is a video demonstration from my YouTube channel that may be helpful. As you can see from the 32.5K views, many nice comments and 530+ likes it has been very helpful to many. I hope you find it equally helpful. In addition to the video content, there are numerous questions and answers below that you might also find useful.

 

As i know and using afterburner on 2 laptops with optimus, that have a little bug. It awakes a dGPU each few seconds to get info and it is looks like mouse stutter and freezing in any applications each 2 sec. Maybe you know how to fix it?

 

Has anyone come across any speaker upgrades that fit by chance? I still love this laptop, but the speakers are just such a weak point. I use headphones often, but still would be nice to have better speakers.

 

Most often problem with speakers is super-enhancers with drivers/windows feature etc. Try put ticks on feature "disable all enhancements" in windows sound properties. Set 24/192kHz and try to listen. We have not very well speakers, but all enhancements is ruining completely sounds of whats left. IMHO ofc.

PS. Can anyone reupload OP-LP2 bios and EC? On their site available only bios and i need EC. I haved that, but deleted long ago. Link on mega.nz is broken.

 

See comments below.

See comments below.

I have found the mouse stuttering and audio artifacts like clicks and pops to be related to aggressive power management used on these and other laptops. At least they seem to be. Here are some suggestions that may help with both things. They will reduce battery run time because power management is less effective, but audio quality and system performance are enhanced. Your mouse cursor will move smoothly, without jerkiness or momentary pauses caused by USB power saving features.

1. I have an unlocked BIOS from @Prema. You can get an unlocked BIOS from Win-Raid forum. You need that to access CPU Power Management Control. HDC Control (Hardware Duty Cycle) seems to be the biggest offender. Disable HDC Control. I also disable other power management items to help with correcting audio artifacts and improve system responsiveness.
   
   
2. Open Device Manager. Go through all USB Hub devices, select Properties and go to the Power Management tab. Remove check marks from boxes to "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" and do the same for Intel Management Engine Interface and Bluetooth. Go to Human Interface Devices. Disable Power Management on the 12C HID Device and all USB Input Devices. If you have a USB mouse (mine is Logitech USB Input Device) do the same for those.
   
   
   
3. Use HWiNFO64. (I prefer the portable version.) Check the 3 boxes to keep NVIDIA GPU awake.
   
   
4. Go into NVIDIA Control Panel. Set the NVIDIA GPU as primary. Change the power management mode to the "Prefer Maximum Performance" option.
   
5. Choose the High peformance Windows power profile. Open the Advanced power settings. Scroll down to USB selective suspend and disable both options. Scroll down to Processor Power Management and set the Minimum processor state for both options to 100%.
   

 

OK @shtooka the rest of the screen shots are posted now.

 

I'm not having any issues with my audio, they are working fine, my only thing is that they just are weak speakers. My little XPS 9570 has MUCH better sound. I'm just wondering if anyone has come up with a drop in speaker upgrade. I'm guessing not.

 

So after installing TLP on this laptop with Ubuntu I am able to get about 8+ hours with the 4 cell. I do wish that we could get a battery like in the Mag-15 but this isn't bad at all. Also Happy New Year TongFang people!

 

I completely uninstalled realtek drivers and soundblaster software, and have been using stock windows " High Definition Audio" drivers with Equalizer APO and the results are much better than stock in my opinion. Peace GUI makes it easy to adjust and using Dance preset gives quite good bass with balanced mids and highs. Most importantly, this drivers allows selecting speakers manualy when the headphone is connected.

 

Logic of EC and other soft is terra incognita for me. With updated chipset and IO drivers fans almost uncontrollable. I tryed 10 different control centers, various bios drivers etc to achieve what i have from the box when i buyed OP-LP2, id say its impossible. By the way EC 1.35.09 from XMG not the same what 1.35.09 from OP, XMG fan control is blocked, only autofan and fan button changed TDP between 35w and 55-65 mode, when OP do on that button 100% fan and without gaming center processor TDP only 55-65, then on XMG i can change with button, but cant control fan, such here joke.

Anyway, i find a solution to upgrade EC from OP with their bios file, it appears, EC is built-in, just need change flags in f.bat file and after rebooting EC is updating from the BIOS page. I noticed that feature on XMG bios, when i want just update bios, but ec is updated too.
There is line like @AFUWINx64.EXE GK5CN6XN105.ROM /p /b /n /r /x /l /reboot
We changed to @AFUWINx64.EXE GK5CN6XN105.ROM /p /b /r /x /l /capsule and everything is works. Thanks for the hint to @ditchmagnet, for some reason noone not noticed his message about it.
I do not recommend to anyone that way, but it exist, just in case. That way like all only for upgrade. If you want 1.35.09 and you have 1.37+ for example, you need downgrade to 1.33 at first and then try that.

My current set is 1.05+1.35.09 from OP, gaming center 2.0.1.8 STD from here http://www.cyberpowerinc.com/drivers/?dir=Notebook/Gaming Center XTU -100mV and 35w profile, chipset drivers from OP, IO is windows stock(i tryed from mag-15 and their control center too, that good, fan profile like they have, but when working from battery, laptop is shutdown.)
In short, i achieve fans drop to 0% with a some delay and begin spinning after 67*C+ like i want, not maddening me when <50. In browser and youtube i have 45*C on passive cooling without any noise (except electronic noise from iGPU, ssd etc.)

 

I just updated the link (see the post linked in my signature as it will take longuer to be updated on the first page).

For people using these laptop (espcially GK5CN) as Hackintosh, there is now a fix for the thouchpad issue (every fifth single touch being inored).

 

What about idle CPU package power draw? How low does it go for you? I tried to achieved the same for me, but somehow Nvidia USB (XHCI, USB-C) devices prevent CPU from entering any higher C state than C3 and idle power draw is about 12W. Total idle temp does not go any lower than 45 and goes up higher and eventually fan kicks in even on total idle because thermal capacity of passive cooling can't sustain prolonged +12W load.

It's possible to "fix" it by uninstalling Nvidia USB, package power draw goes even < 1W, total idle temps are 38-40, as it should, but devices are back after reboot. Also it's not possible for me to go any lower than 12W when using external display, because dGPU is active and C3 is the maximum state CPU can achieve.

 

When i read your conversations with others, i got the impressions like you talking about different wattages and see them from other sources, one seeing W discharging, other seeing W TDP with power supply. In my case i noticed sometimes when i dont starting gaming center, my idle TDP is normal, but center is running its minimum 5-10w TDP from CPU. Today is no difference. With any bioses my discharging on idle 12.5w per hour with 70% brightness, 100% keyboard brightness and bar too. Windows mode choosen for 'better battery'. CPU TDP is 1.3-1.6W. From power is about 2W with balanced mode.

I haved 15-20W discharging, that was a bug with realtek cardreader, like someone says there, but i downloaded driver from OP page and all is OK. Maybe you have too. What is nvidia USB i dont even know, i just install videodriver only.

 

After all it is necessary to refuse from fan controlling. 35w mode turn out is hotter than 55, because fan can kick only to 70% max speed, and i have 85-89*C GPU in last COD, with auto no more than 80*C. I still wait my IC diamond, situation will be better, i think and TDP i can to low in XTU.

 

I'm looking at CPU power draw only, with either Throttlestop or HWInfo I get the same readings. Nvidia USB drivers comes both Microsoft and Nvidia, here it is:


I almost sure you have the same devices on your computer, but for some reason you get right CPU power draw on idle.. Maybe core root of my problem is elsewhere..?

 

I dont have that.

 

@XMG
just ordered this great piece add your new bestware store (XMG NEO 15).
I ordered it without Wifi card since I already have on. I am just curious now, if there are still the wifi cables in the laptop and so I have only to adapt my own Wifi-Card or does this laptop is now delivered without any wifi cables and so I have to buy some and adapt them somehow?
Cheers and my apologies for this maybe little weird question

 

as far as i know the cables are already there. you only need to install the card and put the cables on it.
Most of the laptops I've seen have their cables from the wifi chip to the top of the display. this gives you the best performance and fewer components that can disrupt the signal.

 

Ok cool, thanks alot for your answer!

 

Update: I got Intel driver update in Windows Update today and 12W idle power draw issues seems to be fixed, at least on battery, when dGPU is not active and external monitor is not connected. I got 0.5-2W on idle. Yay!

 

what intel driver are you talking about? igpu or other intel components?

 

Hi everybody ,I bought a op lp2 last year but i didn`t used it so much in the last 6 months .
I looked on op website for new drivers and i bios update but seems it the same like 12 months ago.
Can somebody help me with any setups i can do for this laptop to work better?? I game center or something like that a bios update and maybe some setting for the video and proccesor ??(some maybe with pictures )
Btw I upgraded to dual channel ram and 16 gb and ssd .
Thanks a lot .

 

And why my keyboard is stop working some time in the windows??

 

Damn i havent gotten any updates aside from security through windows update. What version are you on?

edit: Nvm just got it on win update. Doesnt do anything for my battery life. Still sitting at the usual 11 to 15w power draw

 

Did you try restarting the computer while not plugged in? I've noticed that plugging in the AC adapter ruins the fix until I restart the machine on battery only.

 

https://i.imgur.com/mAoiFgO.mp4

To anyone having the flickering display issue, I talked to Eluktronics about it, and they said it was specific to computers with the i7-8750H CPU. They're shipping me a different computer with a i7-9750H. So I don't think this is something we could repair ourselves. Maybe just that specific CPU/display combo resulted in nuked displays! Kinda sucks

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...gk5cq7z-gk5cp0z.815943/page-461#post-10975850
I fix that, maybe for you it was usefull too. After that i still havent any problem.

 

Yup tried it to no avail.

 

Adding a list of next gen 15" TF that have dropped recently...

Illegear:

RAVEN SE-R:
https://store.illegear.com/game-ready-performance/199-raven-se-r.html
ONYX PRO:
https://store.illegear.com/extreme-performance/207-illegear-onyx-pro.html

Eluktronics:

MAX-15:
https://www.eluktronics.com/MAX-15

CyberpowerPC:

Tracer III Ultra Silm:
https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Tracer-III-Ultra-Slim-4K-OLED
Tracer Studio:
https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Tracer-Studio-Ultra-4K-OLED

Mechrevo:

Umi Air Designer Collection:
https://www.tongfangpc.com/index.php/product-981-1.html

Key notes:
Mechanical keyboard options are completely gone.
CyberpowerPC has OLED 15" 4k panels as an option.
Nose cam on the more higher performance laptops.
The higher performance laptop's battery sizes are 62.32Whr max, not 92hr.
All of these laptops have magnesium alloy bodies.

Next-gen 17" TF List:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...gk7cp0s-gk7cp7s.825461/page-138#post-10981633

 

I saw a couple videos about the MAX-15 and people in the comments always bring up that Illegear did it first.

Anything in Europe? @XMG maybe?

 

Wouldn't be surprised of they did it first. Illegear is based in Malaysia anyways and we tend to get the newer chassis first albeit without the whole press release and stuff

 

SKIKK already has it. https://www.skikk.eu/laptops/15gk0y

 

Haven't been on for a bit but it seems like the keyboard issues are starting to become more of a problem. My keyboard RGB lights stopped working months ago and then I would get certain keys that would stop working until finally the whole keyboard quit. I then purchased a bluetooth keyboard but that got old traveling with it. I tried exhaustively to find a replacement keyboard but had no luck. I recently gave up and purchased a different laptop. I have never had a laptop break like this in a year...real shame.

 

Update regarding the 94wh battery situation, yesterday I got mine and got to play around with it for a bit.

It is possible to fit it inside the case with some modifications:
1.(not recommended and dangerous) Remove the cells and controller board from the plastic battery casing and (preferably) wrap it kapton \ electric tape to give it at least some rigidity.
2.Remove (break) the hook that routes the left speaker cable
3.Since the cells are outside their plastic shell and its impossible to screw them, you need to somehow secure the entire mess to the laptop meaning - glue this entire mess to the laptop.

Due to the reasons mentions above and the fact I made a pretty big spark when removing the cells from their plastic case I will not be using this battery in my laptop and I don't recommend this to anyone. Unless you absolutely need the extra battery life and very confident in your ability to not blow things (Also willing to glue what looks and feels like a suicide belt to your laptop permanently)

It was a fun experiment but now i got 5 3.7v cells I need to find use for.

On another note, I seen people here mention that the MAG-15 control center is superior to the default one. How did you install it? when I try to install it on my machine (GK5CP6Z) it just shuts down the installation immediately.
Also, does the custom bios worth the hassle? I just need and option to control the KB lighting and fan speed without the control center software.

 

Good stuff. Which chassis did you attempt this in?

 

Nice to have this confirmed. I'm wondering if the gigabyte aero battery would work on this chassis. It's thinner than the battery you got but battery controller compatibility issues may arise.

 

GK5CP6Z which is pretty much identical to the rest here.

I know it's soldering cells to different boards is possible with phone batteries, it may be possible to do something similar here.

 

Update: I wasn't able to get stable results with both Kryonaut and MX-4, while initially good (86-90*C max), after few days started throttling (>95*C) even in Cinebnech R20 with -150mV undervolt. So I repasted my Tongfang GK5CP6Z with LM (Conductonaut) with sponge dam + nail polish. Temps in Cinebench R20 dropped to 75*C max, score over 3000. Fans still get quite loud, but I can live with it. Now I hope my sponge dam will manage to keep stray LM droplets aways from the mobo.. It was quite difficult to get right thickness. I cut a bit with a razor blade, then tested with regular paste to see how much pressure it gets, repeated until I got quite the same splat as without sponges.

 

maybe its further back in this thread but I cant find it.
overpowered lp2 l aptop
intel support assistant says there is a intel video driver update available
but when I try to install it windows says I cant because of the board manufacture something show can bypass this and install latest drivers?
According to intel support assistant

Intel® Graphics - Windows® 10 DCH Drivers
Latest version: x.x.x.7584
Installed Version: x.x.x.6911

result is
the driver being install is not validated for this computer
please obtain from the putters manufacture

win update says I already have the latest

 

Delete the old one with ddu. Then install new dch driver.

 

works thank you!
just the on board card but the idea annoyed me that there was an update