Razer BIOS Mods - Potential to Unlock All Hidden Options

I think something has gone terribly wrong. My BIOS says it cannot find the secure device, and intel me version is 0.0.0.0, which can't be correct.

Update: When I updated via official razer BIOS update, I had a BSOD and it had corrupted my ME firmware. The solution: download the razer official bios updater, unpack with universal extractor 2, look for charlotte5_106.bin, as that is the full BIOS image including ME regions. Write image via CH341a, and it will fix the corruption. Shame on razer for making the update process so scary/faulty.


I have dumped my 1.06, unlocked the relevant options, and reflashed. My 10875H and 2080 Super are very happy

 

@somejoshdude
Do you have an 100 watt (or higher) bios for my 2070 max-q? Mine is capped at 90Watt

 

Here is the Razer Blade Pro 2070Max-q 100watt vbios
https://mega.nz/#!o4ZX0IjT!bNy2US-O2P6Ncw5coia32pwqIFjVWo7Wcda9HhJOarY

 

When I am using BIOS 1.04 or 1.06, I notice if I change the undervolt in BIOS, I cannot see the change in HWInfo or Throttlestop. I am trying to verify that the undervolt is actually working when it is assigned in BIOS. When I used 1.01 and 1.03, I could make the changes to undervolt with THrottlestop and I could see the change in HWInfo and Throttlestop. I would have stayed on 1.01 or 1.03, but the windows update killed the display interface which required the BIOS update.

 

I just got a RBA 2020 myself and it came with 1.01 which I was very happy about due to the ability to undervolt. Haven't read much reason to upgrade the BIOS as XMP isn't enough to sway me. I'm confused about the display interface comment that requires an update though, is that concerning the MUX issue? If I'm okay only using Optimus, is there any other major reason to upgrade?

 

If you are not going to change your memory, and you do not intend to run with discrete graphics then you really do not need to update your BIOS. Personally, I get better performance results using discrete vs. optimus, so I like the ability to switch.

Yes, the MUX issue was caused in the latest windows update.

 

Hi there.

I don't know from you it is the same with me:
Nothing changes when I edit the BIOS 1.04 or 1.06 and then write it with the Ch341A programmer.

1. The Core / IA VR settings are there and can be adjusted but it seems to me that nothing changes?
2. The Overclocking Performance menu is available but there are no submenus?
3. PL1 and PL2 changed were first adopted but then reset to the default values (65 - 90) (I wanted 30)
4. Is there somthing other from RB 15 to RB 17 on BIOS ?

Can someone help me there why is that so that nothing changes?
What am I doing wrong ?

Do I have to switch off the Secure Boot in the BIOS ???


RAIDRIAR: I have dumped my 1.06, unlocked the relevant options, and reflashed. My 10875H and 2080 Super are very happy

Can You see the Mod in Throttelstop (TDP) ???

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1t3camAuOTtUkOL_IvFBbetLpWroS8k61?usp=sharing

 

Yes throttlestop detects my BIOS voltage settings

 

Can you post a photo of Throttelstop an which settings have you in BIOS 1.06 ?

 

I can't figure out what is going on with my RBA 2020. Bios is from launch, 1.0. No mods at all (yet). Only updated EC to get the 'boost' Synapse mode. I can undervolt, but my all core turbo doesn't go above 34x. No throttling flags are set, power limits don't look to be in play (although it stays close to 45W all the time), temps in the 60's, CB20 score around 3500. Without undervolt all cores stay around 3.1GHz, same power ~47W, but the CB score is the same. What the hell? I have slow memory, 2x16 2666 C15 from older laptop.

 

Updating EC without updating BIOS does nothing. You must update both, and then unlock the BIOS and reflash with CH341A. With latest EC and BIOS + CPU set to BOOST mode my all core turbo goes to 4.3GHZ and eats 90W the thermal throttles due to insane heat in such a small space, even with liquid metal and undervolt. I can operate with -120mV on core/cache and -50mV on uncore/system agent.

 

Thanks! You've got decent CPU, I settled for -110mV, -125 was crashing 3dmark (in graph benchmark, not even it the CPU part). I can still software dump and flash the old Bios right? I'll have a look where those limits are set.

 

No. Soft dump is only 12MB, you need the full 16MB dump to be able to flash. You can download the BIOS update directly from Razer, unpack with universal extractor 2, look for charlotte_106.bin, which is the full 16MB BIOS image that includes BIOS and ME region which can be written with the hardware flasher. You can modify that file with AMIBCP to start unlocking BIOS settings.

 

@Raidriar, with BIOS 1.06 are you adjusting the undervolt in BIOS settings, or are you able to adjust using Throttlestop? If you adjust with BIOS, how do you adjust cache and uncore/system agent? Also, if you are using BIOS, how do you verify the undervolt? Can you see it in Throttlestop or HWInfo?

 

Always adjust all voltage settings in BIOS after test with throttlestop. After I know the settings are good, I delete throttlestop ini in the folder to make sure it removes all software settings for voltage. I then open FIVR to check and make sure the BIOS voltage settings appear there, and they do for me.

in BIOS you cannot modify cache/core individually, the BIOS setting applies to both. System agent = uncore voltage in the BIOS.

 

@Raidriar Thank you for responding. It looks like I may be having issues with my setup since I am not able to see the undervolt changes in Throttlestop. Maybe you could give me a couple of pointers on what you did to get yours to work. Here is what I did:
1. Flashed BIOS with the OEM Razer 1.06 tool from the Razer Website
2. Used the Hardware Programmer to extract the bin file from the BIOS chip
3. Used AMIBCP5 to edit the bin file that I extracted from the BIOS chip

These are the fields I changed (specific for undervolting):
a. Setup -> Advanced : Overclocking Performance Menu - Set to USER
b. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu : Overclocking Performance Menu - Set to USER
c. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu : Processor - Set to USER
d. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu : XTU Interface - Set to USER
e. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu -> Processor : Processor - Set to USER
f. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu -> Processor : Core Voltage Offset - Set to USER
g. Setup -> Advanced -> Overclocking Performance Menu -> Processor : Offset Prefix - Set to USER

Things I have tried:
- I have tried enabling and disabling XTU Interface in BIOS to see if that would help enable the Undervolting (does not appear to have any affect).
- Set Core Voltage Offset to 0 in BIOS, and tried setting the undervolt in Throttlestop (it lets me make changes, but the values do not actually change according to Throttlestop and HWInfo).
- Set Core Voltage Offset to 100 and Offset Prefix to - in BIOS. Both Throttlestop and HWInfo do not show the -100 offset.

Am I missing a setting to enable the Offset?

 

Thank you very much.

Does someone can share how to change the bios with nvflash?
I'm getting an board id and device id missmatch and can't bypass it.

 

There are two lock settings (I forgot where) that you just disable I think somewhere in the CPU configuration menu in advanced section.

 

@Raidriar Thanks for the suggestion. I was able to do some digging and I found out the settings that needed to be unlocked in order to use the Overclock and Undervolt:

Setup -> Advanced -> Power & Performance -> CPU Power Management -> View/Configure CPU Lock Options -> CFG Lock - Set to USER (disabled)
Setup -> Advanced -> Power & Performance -> CPU Power Management -> View/Configure CPU Lock Options -> Overclocking Lock - Set to USER (disabled)

Now I am able to undervolt via Throttlestop or via BIOS. Both work and are recognized by the system.

 

Yep those are the two locks, glad you have it working now!

 

Thanks for the tip, I was facing the same problem. When you say "Both work and are recognized by the system", does it mean that throttlestop or XTU shows the value that you set in the bios ?

 

Thanks again for your help, by the way, is their any benefit to running the undervolt in BIOS vs. Throttlestop? Just curious...

 

I use throttlestop to determine the lowest stable voltage possible, then make the change in the BIOS and delete throttlestop. BIOS communicates at the low level with the CPU and is independent of any operating system, which means reliability and lightweight as you’re not relying on any software to make the changes for you.

 

+1 to all the above. I found my undervolt threshold using Throttle Stop and then made the change in BIOS and both TS and OCCT pickup BIOS changes. I only use TS for temperatures via System Tray but if you’re using a modified IMON Slope you’ll notice the wattage reporting is off (doesn’t seem to be accurate, tho. Supposedly one of these guides would report half of the wattage and therefore allow it to draw more power. I tried it and didn’t like it.


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Thank you @Raidriar and @wireproof ... Good points. Appreciate the feedback!

 

If you don't mod the updated BIOS, I know you can't undervolt. Can you still limit the boost ratio and long/short power limits via ThrottleStop though?

 

I can’t confirm your answer, but I do know disabling turbo effectively doubled battery life for office, chrome, and light weight programs with minimal speed loss.


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Thank you for the trick. Of course I did exactly the same, 1.01 -> 1.06 using razer updater and dead machine after reboot. First time ever had a properly bricked laptop. Well, at least I have the Bios unlocked now, wasn't planning on doing it so soon.

 

Hi!

Just planning to buy my first Razer Blade 15.
Not decided if Base or Advanced model suitable for me - I don't need it for gaming.
Just want a good quality laptop with good screen/touchpad and 2 SSD (that's why I'd go with base model).

Could you please tell me if I can expect a totally silent laptop from the base model (10750H, Rtx2060) for web browsing and Youtube?
(according to the reviews I read the fans are never stops on the Base model)

Silence during this light operation (when nothing special runs) is important for me.
Macbook Pro with 36-38dBa is OK - not completely silent, but inaudible.

Is it possible to overcome the Razer restrictions on the base model? (undervolt and fan control via BIOS mod)
Modding the BIOS is not an issue for me - just want to know if it is possible on this model.

Thank you!

 

I have done it on the 2020 base, fans are annoying though. Swapped for the advanced and the fans are annoying there too. Really poorly written EC/fan tables

 

So there is no way to get a silent laptop from them for web and YT use?
(pulling down the CPU to 15W or something similar?)

I really like how they are built, but wants a silent computer for everyday web browsing.
Then sometimes needs the higher power.

 

That was my hope too, but it’s not possible it seems. My Razer Blade Pro 2017 is competent enough to know to shut off fans under light load.

 

Thanks!

Saved me from an expensive experiment

 

There are some basic fan tables in EC, but this thing is controlled by Synapse when it is running. If I hear fans and the temps are low, I know Synapse is glitching. It is usually enough to open it, go to the performance page and change the mode back and forth, and they start behaving fine. I run only with -100mV undervolt on 2020 Adv and in balanced mode while doing mundane tasks can't hear them.

 

I have a small problem, maybe someone had similar issue. I can’t save one of the parameters in Bios, the primary display. Whenever I change it to something else than SG (iGFX - I want dGPU completely off when docked to eGPU) it reverts back to SH when saved, or even if you go two levels up and then again to that parameter. I had this working fine on Ice Lake Stealth and 2019 Blade Base.

 

This sounds promising. I search a powerful machine to replace the Macbook pro i'm using now and expect the same silent operation for mundane tasks.
Could you tell me how long the battery last without gaming (web/YT/office tasks)?

Funny, that nobody tried to intercept the fan control lines with a small microcontroller and control them according the actual thermal situation.
In the base model there is even space left for this kind of 'proto board' (next to the battery, under the SSD).

 

You must disable peg port 0 in sa configuration-> peg port configuration

 

That worked, thanks, 2080mq not visible in device manager. Still can't save a change in the primary display settings, but it doesn't matter. In Bios (1.06) dump, there are two entries with exactly same name ("primary display"), I guesses that's the reason something is borked.

 

Has anybody found a way to adjust memory timings/speed on the 2020 RBA? There is no other profile than "Default" listed when I go to try and select XMP or Custom, even though I have it set to USER access level. Very frustrating.

 

Yes, I have it. Changing access level in my case didn't work (in general, everywhere), I had to hex edit the dump.

 

What did you have to hex edit? I did not see that referenced in the original post.

 

It is somewhere inside, when you change SSD USER trick doesn't work anymore, some variables have different values assigned, or their names change. You need to change "suppress if" lines to be true false always. There was one post later on, with nicely done step-by-step instructions, I'll try to find it.

@Raidriar here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...l-hidden-options.830993/page-29#post-11041232

 

Interesting, I’ve not changed my SSD, it’s the factory drive. I’ll give that a look, thanks

 

The "Suppress if" and "Grayout if" statements need to be false, just to be sure, I noticed in your quote that I wrote BS.

 

Interestingly enough, that did not solve my problem. It made it weirder, now there is no option of modifying the RAM settings or even see a profile, everything is simply greyed out.

 

Maybe it depends on other settings. How many of those "Suppresss" and "grayout if" statements did you modify? I can send you my bios, so you can compare.

Like I just realized, why I can't change the primary display to IGFX - there is a setting above, GPU mode with only two choices, Dedicated or Optimus, and this sets the primary to only two options - PEG or SG and while you can change the value it will revert back to what this GPU mode sets.

And disabling PEG port keeps the dGPU still in high power state, just invisible to sensors, right side of the laptop is hot, CPU like 60C at 4W with fans active. Damn it.

 

Something is not correct with your machine because disabling PEG0 forces setting IGFX in the graphics menu.

 

Could you check if in your primary display options is there SG field? Or only auto/peg/pci/igfx?

Edit - and if you have "GPU mode" under "Chipset" with two options only. This sets the same variable (0x127 in my case) to the same values as PEG and SG in primary display. Maybe I did unlock too much.

 

when I have PEG0 enabled the setting automatically changes to SG if optimus is selected, or PEG if nvidia only is selected. If PEG0 is disabled, it automatically changes to IGFX.
Your general HEX unlocking must have broken this functionality.

I also solved my Memory profile issue. I was able to simply check my IFR dump for the offesets and manually disable ONLY those expression checks.

EDIT

I'll be damned. As soon as I applied the hex unlock for memory profile selection, it broke being able to select IGFX. It will always revert to SG.

 

Interesting discovery, we no longer have to use hardware flasher after initially flashing a modified BIOS. Just do the following in the ROM you use with the hardware flasher:
Setup -> Chipset -> PCH-IO Configuration -> Security Configuration I found the following interesting entries:
-BIOS Lock
-Force unlock on all GPIO pads

I changed failsafe and optimal values for BIOS Lock to always be disabled, and for Force unlock on all GPIO pads to be enabled, flashed with hardware flasher, and to my amazement, I don't need the hardware flasher for all future mods. I can use fptw64 with following command: fptw64.exe -f bios.rom -BIOS

obviously you must make sure those settings are the same going forward on all BIOS mods, or else you will have to use hardware flasher again!

EDIT nvm my computer will not POST now lol, wonder why considering I flashed back the exact dump I made.