Razer Blade 15.6" (GTX 1060/1070, 2018 edition) Owner's Lounge

Take the screenshot directly after you exit the game + reset it before you enter the game. game so we can see the average stat

 

How can i change the color of the function keys when pressing fn?

 

Is it still same on synapse 3, unchanged? I changed on Synapse function key as multimedia key so I don’t have to press fn and deal with that, since I use mostly for multimedia, and changed the colors as my favor so i can remember keys functions.

 

So, this is after 20 min of Overwatch. I have no other game installed at the moment. Had to reduce the UV to -150 though, because the Blade crashed after a few minutes. A little confusing, since Prime95, Cinebench and Firestrike ran perfectly..

The high 90s only happened while starting the game.

HWI indicates no throtteling.


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

Nice, not bad. No throttling is good. I couldn't keep stable over - 150 uv either

 

Stock thermal paste ?

If that's so, the razer blade is impressive indeed

 

Yep, all stock. Just UV -150. Fans on auto in gaming mode and lid closed due to second monitor.

I can try a test tomorrow using fans maxed out and the chroma laptop stand with open lid. I did this tests above without the stand on purpose to get a comparable result.

My Blade got screen bleeding though.. so nothing is perfect..


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

What do you mean you use a speedshift of 0 on gaming profile? Do you mean you set the range in the TPL screen as 0-0?

 

Apparently users get varying degrees of success, so the unit in question could indeed have faulty VRM cooling applied. We'd have to see. But performance even on the GPU is vastly different for many users according to a lot of reddit posts, so... this is still a mish mash of quality control. As per usual for Razer.

 

this number can be changed. the value represents responsiveness to performance, more or less. 0 is max performance, 255 is max slowpoke.

 

Totally just ordered all the stuff i need to apply LM, along with Fujipoly pads both a 1.0mm strip and 1.5mm. Lets pray I do this right lmao.

 

That's not how it works based on my reading of the notes. This number is the range that your multiplier is locked in. So anything over 41 does nothing for us. If you set it to, say, 21-41 and run a game or a benchmark, you will see that your multiplier stays in that range. If you set it 0-255, it will allow your multiplier to go from 0 (ie no multiplier) up to 41. That's my understand, could be wrong.

EDIT: Wait, we are talking about different spots. I was referring to the TPL screen where you can edit the range for SpeedShift. I don't know if that's the same or different that the frontpage of Throttlestop (where I had no idea that value was editable!). Hmm!

 

This was my go-to article, just scroll down to the speed shift section. In a nutshell, it controls how fast the processor upclocks and downclocks.
https://www.notebookcheck.net/How-t...ife-The-ThrottleStop-Guide-2017.213140.0.html


Anyone have a good link for LM foam barrier they recommend buying?

 

This silicone sponge tape sounds like a winner.. compressible and service temp up to 500F (260C)! (don't put it too close to the die it might compress into it...)
http://www.auburn-mfg.com/literature/pdf/tapes/SNS100S.pdf
http://www.auburn-mfg.com/products/strip-n-stick.html

I would imagine you can cut this up, it does look expensive though and i don't know if anyone has tried it yet.. Might not work..

Ask @Mr. Fox what he used on his...

 

Many thanks Assault. If the SpeedShift is a single value as described by that link - do you happen to know what the purpose of the range is for SpeedShift in the TPL screen on the right hand side?

 

I honestly don't. I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out all that Throttlestop has to offer, but that's one area I'm still not informative about, other than enabling speedshift to start at launch.

 

This post seemed helped as to the difference between the EPP setting and the range in the TPL screen:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-507#post-10358154

EDIT: It looks like setting the EPP to 0 forces the CPU to run at max multiplier, whereas 255 it generally sits as low as possible (down to 8x multiplier). The speedshift setting in the TPL page, by contrast, sets the RANGE in which the multiplier will work. So if EPP is set to 0, but the TPL range is set to, say, 30-30, the clocks will lock at 30c. Further, if you have set a max multiplier on the FIVR page - then your CPU will not go above that FIVR screen multiplier regardless of what range you set for SpeedShift on the TPL screen.

For example, you can spike your Power Package (mine went straight to 75W) and hit the Power Limit really easily by setting:
1. FIVR max multipler to 41 (default)
2. SpeedShift-EPP set to ON and a value of 0
3. TPL speedshift range of 41-41.

Run Cinebench 15 and your CPU will spike in temp to mid 80s and you'll hit the Power Limit throttling immediately according to HWInfo64. And you should get a CPU score around 1,200 on Cinebench15.

Can anyone else test this on Cinebench 15 please?

 

Someone please give me an honest answer why we want to be pushing our clock speeds over 3.0ghz. I keep testing games and firestrike, but I cant seem to understand where real world performance gets affected even at my 2.8Ghz "cool-off" profile. My maximum gaming temp spike was 82c on 2 cores, whereas it rides at 77-79c, and my FPS doesn't seem phased. Overwatch on High settings is at 144hz with 120 occasional lows. Fortnite same temp story, but slightly lower FPS. Firestrike score 12,749 with temps in the 60s. This was all on a balanced profile, too. Package power draw was under 20w most the time. Is there a reason I need to crank up my CPU to do something worth the 10C?

 

If it's a CPU intensive game then the core speed makes a difference. For example, Path of Exile, which I play a lot, varies greatly based on clock speed. If I want to keep it above 144hz, I need all the CPU power I can get.

 

Sounds logical enough then, thank you. Has the extra 2 cores this generation helped those games at all?

 

Just redid all of the thermal pads with fujipoly, the cpu/gpu with kryo and the ssd with fuji as well.

1 - the chipset has just a little bit more than 2 100x15x1.5mm strips worth of thermal material. It's really close. If you are completely exact you might get it with just 2. I stole a little from the SSD strip to complete my application.

2 - thermals seem about the same right now, however the palm rests are not even a bit warm to the touch. I'll see how it goes with long gaming sessions, but this is a real improvement. I don't know if it's because of the ssd strip or what.

 

I don’t know - I know the game runs many times better than on my 3 year old aorus x3!

Oh and this arrives today - will apply it to my SSD tomorrow and see if I can get those SSD temps down (which have hit 74C playing path of exile).

 

Good to hear! Don't suppose you took some photos? I am applying 1.5mm thermal strip to the SSD tomorrow (see post above). I hope it help - while my palm rest only gets warm, I've seen my SSD hit 74C during a long disk-intensive gaming session.

 

For me it’s only for stress test to measure my machine capabilities and get highest benchmarks like Firestrike scores for fun. On daily usage I prefer lower temperature but try not to loose gpu performance from average. I did that since Blade 2015, and I never had hardware issues and could sell it after over year usage with good value. I could get max 10,5K with OC on FS overall score on my old Blade 14, but I was using default 9,4K since it has only 1080p 60Hz, But now Blade has 144Hz screen, maybe I will want to push the hardware to max the experience, it’ll be interesting now. I can’t also wait to test it on my eGPU setting with 1080ti, it’ll be interesting since I saw only this, that might still have room for improvement.

 

So to replace the blades thermal pads, you need 2x strips of 100x15x1.5? No 1.0 or other sizes needed?

 

Yeah just the two strips, but again you have to be really exact if you want to get away with 2. 3 might be safer. Didn't take any 1.0.

Sorry I didn't take any photos. All I did for the SSD was apply the strip the whole way across and then set an extra piece on top of the controller. I have a 970 pro and that controller on mine was closest to the connector. Dropped me from 74 to 54 and cooled down the palm rest. Great mod.

 

Did you remove the sticker on top of the controller first before applying the pads to the SSD or did you leave the sticker on?

So you used two strips of thermal paste for the SSD - was one 0.5mm and one 1.5mm, or something else (if the former, which one went "on top" (the visible side) and which one "on the bottom" (the covered side)?

 

Just like me... I feel bad for having no pics. I will say that my palm rest stays anywhere from cool to slighty warm at the hottest. Buuuuttttt I am pulling the plug and going to go with liquid metal. I think I had to test a couple games however on my current thermal setup. I think fortnite and Diablo 3? I'll let you guys know how they fair.. firing up my Blade now.

 

Try Path of Exile! You don't even have to play much in the game, just run around the starting area. It beasts the CPU. <Also, it's more D2 than D3 is >

 

As I have a retain 970 PRO I did not remove the sticker. Samsung's website says that voids the warranty and I didn't want to do that. I also believe that retail SSD stickers are thermally conductive.

 

Thanks - I'm just using the 512gb SSD that came with the Blade, so not sure if its sticker is thermally conductive or not... I wonder how/if I can tell? Also, would you mind letting me know if you used two strips of thermal for the SSD (I think so) and, if so, what thickness was each one (both 1.5mm or not)? Thanks a lot!

 

I used a single 1.5mm piece on top. I've seen people talking about putting one on the bottom, but I haven't a clue why as there aren't any chips there and that would be forming a bridge between the SSD and the PCB. On top of the controller chip on the SSD I applied an extra square of thermal pad to make it thicker. I suppose it's possible this is the only part that would then be touching the inside of the chassis, but it's definitely the main culprit for heat as well.

I believe OEM ssd stickers are just plastic and you are allowed to remove them. Idea being who knows if the person who built your PC removed it.

 

If someone else does this, please share some pics. I consider doing this as well. Although my CPU is cooled properly, my ssd becomes pretty hot..

 

AC Origins

 

Looks amazing - but Path of Exile is truly free to play (and not pay to win), so might be easier to test with...

 

I'm going to pop mine back open today to see if I can observe the contact between the thermal pad and the chassis on the SSD. I'll post a picture when I do.

 

Had to reinstall Diablo 3 and download Path of Exile. Ended up falling asleep while I’ll was waiting . I’ll get to those tests soon!

 

Feel free to add me as a friend on PoE - account is mrpetrov

 

If you don't compare Diablo 2 to Diablo 3, D3 is a fun game. Not like D1 and D2 had much in common either but people forget that. I have found Diablo 3 is pretty good at heating up a system - it definitely uses any CPU you can give it and is only moderately demanding on graphics - but the CPU is what always gets hot in these modern laptops it seems. It "only" took D3 to max out the fans on my last few laptops.

 

Have you guys monitored your PCH temperature? I noticed after a gaming session this morning, that while all my components (CPU/GPU and SSD) stayed below 80, my PCH temperature was 86C. HWinfo also had a "Yes" Reading for: "GT: Fuses Limit", "Ring: Max VR Voltage, ICCmax, PL 4" and "IA: PROCHOT" all under the performance limit reasons monitoring section. Anyone else replicate this?

 

Thank you! I am waiting curiously!


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

Might be worth to use a thick thermal pad to connect the chipset copper heatspreader to bottom chassis

 

Here?

 

I would not fret about the PCH temps honestly. In my AW there is literally NOTHING cooling it. The PCH is largely just a switch routing connections through the DMI back to the CPU, not a lot of logic there.

Also on my Blade, there was literally a huge cube of thermal pad sitting directly over the PCH and making solid contact with the bottom cover. Does everyone else not have that?

 

How many years have you been running it? Since new?

 

Oh, it already come with a thermal pad that connects that area to the bottom cover?

 

Ok here are the thermal pad pictures:

1 - here is the mark the double thickness piece is leaving in the chassis. Definitely making contact where the pad is doubled over:

The drive close up:


View of entire interior (32gb of RAM also in this one):


And finally HWINFO after running CrystalDiskMark for 20 loops:

 

Thanks dgreen9! Why the double tape at the end of the SSD (the controller?) - wouldn’t that stop the heat dissipating from the SSD chips themselves as they won’t be touching the chassis?

 

You don't need thermal pads over the NAND chips, really just over the controller. The pads do not absorb much heat, they are just to help transmit that heat to a sink that can absorb it.

 

I got this laptop early December 2016 (ordered on Black Friday). Have never had a hick-up since then. Have not seen or heard of PCH failure on the 13,15, or 17 either. They are just not hot running parts anymore (back in the old Core 2 days with FSBs they would get hot and need cooling for a stable overclock).