Razer Blade 15.6" (GTX 1060/1070, 2018 edition) Owner's Lounge

Ok so side note by power brick is buzzing.. spoke with Razer and they are going to RMA it for me... wasn't sure at first if it was normal but it's definitely not. Laptop seems to still be working ok just going to keep close eye until I get my replacement. Moving onto Path of Exile... I am sitting in the starting area at 66c on the GPU and 70c on the CPU (my undervolt is -.130)

 

Do you have to return your power brick first or will they send you an advance RMA?

 

I requested an advanced RMA and they complied. No issues at all

 

If the thermal pad isn't doubled over it won't bridge the gap between the chassis and the SSD controller. As stated the NAND doesn't really get that warm, but if that takes a little bit of heat and moves it to the bottom of the laptop that's great for me.

They are replacing power bricks now without the whole laptop? I had a buzzing one, RMAd and I have another buzzing one. How far away is yours audible? Mines pretty loud from a few inches.

 

He asked me if I wanted to replace the laptop as well.. but I told him just the power brick. I don't see any issues with the laptop other than minor screen bleed at the bottom. I'd rather keep this one.. not to mention the thermal work and pads that were done. I don't want to have to do it again.. even though I am planning on getting liquid metal done sooner than later.

Edit: I can hear it about 3 inches away. I wasn't able to hear it at all at first. I normally have a AC window unit running in addition to the central air to keep my game room cooler. I turned it off to clean the filter and when I walked by my Blade I barely heard something. So went closer and could hear the buzzing pretty clearly.

 

Ah great. That makes sense and is the same issue that two of them have had for me now. I'm going to look into an advanced RMA for mine as well. I plan to buy a backup brick as soon as they are in stock as well so I can leave one at my desk permanently.

 

Firebat246 what was the name of the person you spoke to in customer service if you can recall - I’ll ask to speak to them to try and get someone sensible to discuss this with?

 

I believe it was Ram, but if you just speak to any customer service rep and have any issues, please PM me and I will see what I can do for you. I have to see who to talk to around here to possibly add "flare" to my name for being an Insider mod. I also help out on Reddit when I can so I have no issue speaking with the Razer team if you have any issues with customer service. Just PM me.

 

Ram is very helpful.

 

Another, but new, observation: When I plug my USB 3.0 hub (3 usb ports and an ethernet port) into the USB A-type port right next to the power cord, then the RB15 can't boot up - it hard freezes on the Bios loading screen, but you can't Function-key into any menus or anything, you have to hard reset.

If I plug the USB hub into any other of the USB type A ports, then it boots (or reboots) fine. The hub is just a regular Anker brand 3-port+ethernet hub.

Can anyone else test this - I thought the Razer engineers might want to know about this. Thanks!

 

I have successfully placed the 1.5mm Silverstone TP01-M2 ( https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=735&area=en) on the SSD. To cut to the punchline, it has reduced SSD temps by 20C in my case. Previously, my SSD would peak at 75C (in the red according to HWInfo64) after gaming on Path of Exile. Now, it peaks at 55C. A pretty amazing difference and surely a no-brainer for such a beginner-friendly mod.

I followed the steps per some of the reddit threads and here. I only applied the 1.5mm pad (the box comes with a 1.5mm strip and 0.5mm strip) to the outward facing side of the SSD, as the underside has no components on it. I added a double layer of 1.5mm thermal pad at one end (I think the controller end) of the SSD to ensure that end of the thermal pad would touch the chassis.

I used a wiha torx T5 screwdriver to unscrew the chassis (EDIT: do not even consider using a cheap brand of screwdriver, I did, and I almost stripped the screw hole - the Wiha is an excellent German-made precision tool and is still less than $10).

If you are only applying the pad to the outward facing side of the SSD, you don't actually need to unscrew it (it's easier to apply the pad to the SSD while it's screwed in so it doesn't move around as you find the right spot to apply it). If you did want to apply pad to both sides, you will need a (very) small Philipps head screwdriver to extract the SSD.

I personally removed the SSD sticker - there is no indication it needs to be kept on for warranty purposes - as I wanted to maximize direct contact between the pad and the SSD.

The pad is longer than the SSD, but it has a pair of perforations exactly where you want to cut it to precisely match the SSD side, so no manual measurements required! I used the "stub" piece of 1.5mm thermal pad as the second layer at the controller end of the SSD (the bit that I hope is touching the chassis).

I will attach some pictures below. Enjoy!
https://imgur.com/a/nQhx7vD
https://imgur.com/a/sty31tO
https://imgur.com/a/lHfWCGA
https://imgur.com/a/BkjeXZU
https://imgur.com/a/g77yk1b

 

Do you have the latest bios update? Which version are you on? That was supposed to fix usb issues.

 

I have the latest version I think - 1.03

 

Looks great! By the way hidden in his post is a real gem: the wiha torx t5 screwdriver. I used a cheaper t5 and it felt like it was stripping the screws. Bought a wiha and it's a HUGE difference. You must get one if you plan to open up your laptop more than once.

 

YES! I also first bought some no brand piece of dag t5 torx screwdriver and it also felt like it was stripping the screws - it couldn't actually turn the screws out. I also HIGHLY recommend the Wiha as it fit the screw and worked flawlessly.

 

I have an Ifixit kit and absolutely love it if you wanna go a step further and have more to work with!

 

A month usage review, from ex MacBook user, he was too hyped till forgot mentioning the bad and contra

 

I THINK that the thermal throttle point is higher on my 970 evo than the stock 981 that the blades come with. I'm pretty sure mine does not throttle until 79c. Correct me if i'm wrong?

 

Firebat - do you have a 1TB evo? If so could you post a shot of a crystaldiskmark run on the drive?

 

i have the 2TB 970 Evo.. did you still want it?

 

Is there any really noticeable difference going to a Samsung 860 EVO? I only download and play games, as well as web browse. I hardly transfer files, so I don't think I've ever seen a drive transfer above 400mb/s. ever. Wondering if I'd be shooting myself in the foot by installing the 860 1tb.

 

I do. My scores with a 970 pro seem a little low so I'm curious.

 

Honestly probably not. I do a lot of 100GB+ file transfers for my line of work so all the speed I can get I want.

 

Here you go... note this is not with thermal pad on the SSD. Temps spike pretty high partway through the test. Going to be adding thermal pads to the SSD on Thursday and then i'll retest.

 

Cool, thank you. I'm going to get the 860 then, I don't need the crazy speeds, nor the headache of trying to copy windows over. I'll just buy the M.2 external USB adapter and clone like I do with the 2.5"s. Man it would have been cool to have 2x M.2 slots, but its awful cramped in the Razer and battery life is "ok" as is, so can't shrink that.

 

Thanks! That's only a tad slower than what I'm getting. I've installed the Samsung NVME drivers and installed a thermal pad on the SSD. Didn't change a thing. Out of curiosity did you clean install Windows or just do a clone?

 

For your OS drive I would stick with NVMe. Better latency will make small files accessed by the OS snappier leading to better user experience. For a D: drive where you just store stuff, sure, 860/870 EVO all the way - of course this laptop only has one drive slot.

And another vote for the iFixit kit here, had cheap Torx in the past and the wings of the star bit nearly twisted off (must have been worlds hardest screw? lol)

 

I did a clean install. The evo really isn't much worse than the pro. I was gonna get the 1tb pro.. but for the money the 2tb Evo made wayyyy more sense. If you don't have thermal pads on it when you do a crystal bench I bet you you're temps are hitting the 80s.

 

I bought and installed the 860 EVO, which is working nice and fast for typical things (email, games) I don't process large files, FWIW.
I basically went with the advice on pcgamer.com which was NVME isn't worth it for my above uses. I went with the 1TB which I felt was the right price/size balance for me.

 

So if i go for a 970 Evo, is there an easy way to clone the drive over?

 

970 pro was about 76c in crystal before pads. Now it doesn't go above 55.

 

Amazing! My pads are coming in Thurs so looking forward to that little mod. Big difference. Very easy mod too!

 

My oem SSD hit 59C for one second during crystal after thermal pad, same as you beforehand (75+).

 

I used fuji ultra extreme on mine so it's likely pulling a bit more heat to the chassis. Wouldn't want to set this thing on my legs like this, but I never do that anyhow.

Actually just went back to look at my screenshot and it does look like I still hit 58. Ah well, close enough!

 

That's also what I use for everything else only exception will be the ssd.

 

Guys, I've noticed that when I run Fire Strike, Core 0 for me generally gets a fair amount hotter than the other cores, while Core 1 stays a lot lower. For example, if I force a high multiplier with max fans for fire strike (with the usual undervolt), Core 0 might jump to around 89, while core 1 stays at high 70s, and the other cores around 83-85 (ie when the power package spikes to 60W).

Is this just a CPU die issue, a pasting issue, or just how the CPU uses core0?

 

It is very common for one or two cores to have higher temps than other cores. Most of time it depends on your load on each cores and paste job. There is one thing you need to know. The CPU die surface is not completely flat. There is very small curve to the die. You can see it when you repaste the cpu, and see the curve.

 

This is a 2500 Euro laptop, so I'm concerned with the Screen brightness disparity between review units.

Dave 2d: 300 Nits
Mobile Tech Review: 300 Nits
Laptop Review: 250 Nits
Tech Guide.com.au: 350 Nits

250 Nits is just not good enough for a 3k machine, can a Razer rep clarify if sub 300 nit screens will be replaced?
Also, is there plans to incorporate a fingerprint sensor in future models? Is there a possibility that a driver update could improve the quality of the speakers?

 

1) Yes
2) Razer won’t tell you
3) Likely not


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The LG panel used in the 144Hz Razer typically measures and is spec-d at 300 nits, even when used in other machines like the few Aero 15X that got that panel and some house brand (Clevo chassis) 15" gaming laptops. I'd really be surprised if many of the panels deviate beyond 5 -10 points from this. They're likely graded at the factory for brightness, color and contrast and more expensive brand laptop makers will typically buy the panels that meet the spec and not those that fall below the spec. No offense to Laptop Mag who measured 260 nits, but their colorimeter must be old or the software out of date because they typically get measurements that don't match the rest of us (they get much higher color gamut readings for example).

 

Man they RMA my whole laptop, they received it on the 7th of June and they still haven't not provided me with a refund or replacement laptop. I chat with them everyday and they constantly say they cant get a hold of their financing department. So my money is tied up to razer. I am about to file a fraud case on my credit card.

 

Can you please PM me your case number?

 

Have any of you guys bought the Razer 15.6 sleeve? I really want to know how it fits, the site's measurements would lead me to believe the blade fits loosely inside rather than snug. Not trying to fit "most 15 inch laptops," I'm trying to snugly fit "the worlds smallest 15 inch laptop" lmfao.

https://www.razer.com/gaming-accessories/razer-protective-sleeve-15

 

Got LG display like previous Blade 14 2017 it’s bright, idk how nits though. No famous BLB and No ac adapter buzzing. Two only issues, I’ve to get used to the keyboard, feels different than previous Blade, and CPU temperature is too cool...!? Did they LM it already, but somehow physical score is also lame on Firestrike, which made overall score meh. Maybe someone can help me bumping it?
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27157439
It also effected on core setting.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27159730
Previous score on Blade 14 7700HQ was
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/26298494
So it should 20K on Graphics score egpu setting. I’m expecting 16K cpu score actually does something hold the clock? This is HWinfo screen after running those Firestrike, 74c max temperature isn’t too low? It’s turbo boost not unlock, 100% processors state.

 

Almost doesn't seem possible. You doing test in the snow?

 

It's totally ridiculous. It's about 6 inches too long and fits awful. It is NOT a custom sleeve by any means. I use a Incase 15" MBP sleeve for mine and it's very nice.

 

Yes i know but how that score comes I’m downloading AC Origins to kill it

 

Do it lmfao. If possible use Afterburner for on screen temps and take a screenshot if those temps stick, then idk wtf you got in there, that's crazy cool.

 

Holy crap what is with those temps? That's unreal.

 

Thank you very much. I'm trying to find a RB14 sleeve for sale but it's difficult..