Razer Blade Pro 17" GTX 1080 GPU/7820K CPU 2017 Owner's Lounge

Wouldn't it still be able to technically receive a charge? I mean isn't it Thunderbolt 3 spec to be able to receive up to a 100W charge? I mean, perhaps under full load it wouldn't work, but normal web browsing it should be able to receive a charge from it?

 

Charging through the thunderbolt port is disabled on the Pro and the RB 14.

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I think I may have a problem. A few weeks ago, I unplugged the machine for the holidays and packed it up in my laptop bag. Noticed that the hinge would not completely close without force. At the same time, I noticed that the trackpad stopped working. Cursor movement is fine, but left click is not possible. Even tap to click isn't possible. Decided to investigate further today and boom. I believe my battery is about to explode. Will be calling HID first thing Monday morning...

 

Did you contact HID today? What did they say? Hopefully you just get a new machine under warranty, considering that the battery swelling damaged the chassis.

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I needed to use the machine for work last night so I went ahead and removed the battery. It’s insanely bloated. I would say 50% thicker due to the cells bulging.

Good news is that the chassis is not permanently deformed. Keyboard, trackpad, etc all seem to work again and were only dysfunctional from the battery pressing against the internal components.

Bad news is I do not really want a new machine and would prefer to have a replacement battery instead. I think we all can appreciate the high probability of getting a machine with one of the many problems folks have reported.

Used the day off to spend time in the snow with the kids. Will call HID this afternoon. In the meantime, I’ve got the machine running normally on AC. Come to think of it, I have no plans to ever use the machine off of wall power. My only concern is if the machine uses occasional battery boost that it’s going no to lock up and crash when it can’t support power over-draws.


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Maybe it won't crash when it needs battery boost and just throttle to the necessary power limits.
Razer, unfortunately, won't send a new battery, they require an RMA, but maybe HID is willing if they can get the part from Razer. The thing is HID usually just sends a RMA request to Razer qnd have to abide by their rules. It will be hard to find the battery on for the Pro on ebay.

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the THX profile is a secret no one likes to share

 

Seriously. Razer themselves refused to send me the .icc file when asked. They told me I'd have to restore my system in order to access it.

It'd be awesome if someone could just take the 30 seconds and post it in a Dropbox / Google drive folder for those of us that need it..

 

Where is this profile stored on the machine?

 

It should be: C:\ Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color

 

I don't see anything Razer specific. What is the file format?

 

It should be ICC format. There's nothing that says THX or something like that?

 

Try looking at your default color profile settings for your RBP and navigate to the folder to find that profile.

 

Hello everyone, you guys sound like your having a blast tinkering with multipliers, and voltages, and overclocking the gtx1080 lol on such a thing premium device.. I’m entertained and ran out of pages to read.

Anyways, I’m buying a high end gaming laptop. I was curious if you all could help me out on what is considered a good price to pay for one of these on the used market.

I found one at a local pawn shop. Of all places it’s in this rinky dink run down mom pop style pawn shop. Here’s the specs and his asking price;

2017 Razer Blade Pro 17.3”
7820HK i7 7th gen cpu
32gb ddr4 260pin memory
GTX1080 max Q 8gb gpu
UHD 3840x2160 touch screen.
512gb ssd.

It is used, in good shape.. includes the box and charger.

He’s asking $3,095 bucks for it.
What should I offer him? This is a pawn shop so.. I wanna start low. Sounds to me like he may not have much invested in it.

Somebody may have pawned and unfortunately lost there prize baby due to not paying and getting it back.

I want it! And I may just hit him at $2,000 cash or something and see what he says. He’s had it for some while.

Yay nay?

This would be the ultimate dream slab to game and work on.

 

Didn't want to create a separate/new thread but thought I'd post it here as I found it to be compelling. I don't own a Razer Blade Pro but I'd be curious to know from current owners how accurate/inaccurate this review is:

 

Nice. Razers own mouse can't be used I wonder if the same happen with their other gears

 

Interesting it is advertised with a MaxQ. Technically it’s not a MaxQ but we all know it’s not the full fat 1080 either. Sort of a MaxQ+


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I won't do a complete review on my unit but I can comment that the machine has been fairly solid after 10 months. The battery issue is the first major flaw I've encountered and I'm not sure what route I'll take (if any) to find a solution.

Razer Synapse can be a pain in the ass, as mentioned by the recently posted video reviewer. The keyboard will randomly not display any colors at all (although this hasn't happened in months). The biggest gripe with Synapse is that it is ALWAYS trying to update itself. Sometimes multiple times per day. It's like the update fails or doesn't recognize that it is already up to date. Frustrating to fire it up each morning and to see an update waiting.

I still do not use the laptop screen much at all since I have an external 34" ultrawide. The colors are absolutely too saturated and the contrast is what I would consider extreme, matching up with the video reviewer's take. This isn't a knock on Razer, but the panel response times are obviously very long and ghosting is present in fast paced scenes/games. I would not recommend gaming on this panel.

After optimizing voltages for both CPU and GPU, the machine runs consistently well for both professional and gaming applications. I use a 100mV undervolt for the CPU and core multipliers of 39x, 37x, 36x, and 35x for 1, 2, 3, and 4 active cores, respectively. I have a custom Afterburner power curve for the GPU which has been very stable.



A recent firestrike score is pretty decent but conservative. Both the CPU and GPU could be stressed a bit more but IMO, it's not worth it for stability. I've been able to get graphics scores closer to 21,000 and physics scores nearly 11,500 in the past but like I said, that extra bit of performance isn't worth the extra heat.

 

Slim did you consider having the guys at HID do a repaste on your CPU/GPU? Im thinking about ordering one of these from them so that I get support through them, and then take advantage of their repasting for 80 bucks. It does seem weird to have them tear down a brand new machine though.

 

Certainly a repaste will help, but even after repasting with LM it is thermally and power constrained. For the price, considering the reliability and design issues (thermal/power/performance), it is not worth it just because it looks nice and is thin and relatively light.

 

A repaste would certainly lower temps, but I don't think it would increase performance.

The GPU clearly has a 145-150W power limit and can reach that power level easily without overheating. I've got my voltage curve adjusted so that it sips power and won't go beyond ~1800MHz because anything north of that bumps into the power ceiling.

The CPU is also power limited but that limit occurs about the same time as thermal throttling. It's here that I think a repaste could help a bit. Under gaming loads, the CPU never goes over 82-83C, but the total power draw also isn't near the 45W chip limit. Non-optimized tasks like games rarely pull more than 20-25 watts. With a repaste, I could jack up the overclock so that I see more like 35-40 watts in-game and still skirt under bad temps. Honestly, I don't think there is much benefit to this. With a power capped GTX1080, the CPU is DEFINITELY not a bottleneck in this machine. I've run intense FEA simulations while also running benchmarks/PUBG and it has no impact on frame rates.

 

Mostly I would be using it for work,software development, email, MS Office, web browsing, Twitch/YouTube, and playing Blizzard games. I play a lot of Overwatch, and some D3/WOW. I don't think I will heat this thing up much, and that 15% that its shy of a full 1080 wont mean much to me. I have a 1950x watercooled Threadripper box w/1080TI Hybrid that I do most of my heavier gaming on anyway. I think I'm going to pick one up, and if it gives me any headaches Ill exchange or refund it.

 

Had an issue once where my orochi when I connected it to my blade pro 2013 killed all i/o on the system and it was 100% unrecoverable even after multiple reboots.
My mamba never worked right with my blade pro 2013.
My blade pro 2013 had similar issues with the keyboard except it would repeat keys indefinitely until a conflicting key was pressed. Was a serious issue with function keys like control, caps, shift, escape, alt, etc. -- Razer was, for some reason, unable to reproduce this issue: (repeating r key and dead SBUI video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AuMOrXc4ORHpkKlL_mVFHDvH7YmiiQ)

Seems as though similar issues plague Razer products 4 years later...

 

Hi, let's see if someone can help me sort this out...:

I have a Razer Blade Pro 7820hk, Win 10 Pro (1709), 512gb ssd. I'm triying to activate the gaming mode on Synapse, just to try temps with the fans sets on high, but when i select gaming mode or Balance mode on High, the fans just stay the same... My main question is, should the fans start running inmediatedly on high just by selecting High on synapse? Or will they start only under load?

NOTE: I have the process RazerPerformance DISABLED (i have CPU undervolted so i dont know if that process will mess Throttlestop), so i dont know if that process have something to do with it... lights on keybord and everything else works fine.

Thanks in advance!

 

Hi there,

Hope someone can help. I am in need of a copy of back up bios for this laptop.
I messed up firmware and lost internal display but external is OK.

Thank you in advanced

 

@Donald@HIDevolution

The day has come. I just shipped my 2017 RBP work laptop back to HID for repairs. Very thankful that we opted for the extended warranty from HID when this was purchased over a year ago. While under heavy load last night, the unit shut down and would not restart. No amount of pressing/holding/mashing the power button resulted in so much as a fan peep from the machine. I tested with my spare PSU and the result was the same.

HID has been very responsive and I'm looking forward to hearing about what they find. I suspect that the past year of extreme thermals has caused something inside to pop. I am hoping that both SSDs and their content are ok and that it is a MOBO or power supply circuitry issue. This machine did have a bulging battery about 8 months ago which has been sitting outside the unit ever since. I know several others have also had battery issues. I'm curious how much HID will be able to do with the machine and whether or not it will be sent back to Razer for diagnostics/repair.

I am going to have them repaste the CPU/GPU with LM and add their own thermal pads to various components. Should have more info in a few weeks.

 

Any updates on this?

 

HID received the unit on Monday 8/20 and checked it into the RMA department on Thursday 8/23. Have not heard back since then. I'm not holding my breath that I get it back anytime soon knowing that they will have to deal with Razer to figure out the repair.

 

Ok thanks, I'll be paying close attention because I have the same system now and I hope mine doesn't "Pop" lol...

 

Razer mice are garbage town anyway... 85% of them dont work or die in months.... Ill never buy another one

 

anyone have a tear down video? i ordered my Razer blade 17 today returned the new 15 to get the 17 pro since there is no official update with new cards I needed more power as the 1070max Q while decent optimus is unbearable and makes me want to give myself a concussion.

I know you have to take the entire motherboard out in order to repaste but is it difficult surprisingly there are 0 videos about this on youtube.

 

I'm researching that right now as I will do a repaste on mine as well. I'm currently here I'll let you know of any updates as I get them:

https://imgur.com/a/FgNxM

 

Awesome thank you !!!, BTW how laong have you had it? i saw a video about a guy saying the system is not able to power itself proper and the battery will drain while gaming even when its plugged in... Have you had this issue and how bad is it>?

 

I just got my system, I'm kind of indulging severely right now, the Razer 15 was my first Razer and I've really liked my 1060 version for on the go purposes. I have had many laptops and this is by far my favorite one.

I liked it enough I decided that instead of using it as my main for everything I would just get the Blade Pro for the larger disk space. Hopefully if I balance my usage between these two systems I won't pop them as it seems like the Pro is very susceptible to breaking.

 

I agree that Optimus is not ideal, but the 1080 in the RBP is only ~10% faster than the 1070 MQ in the RB15.

 

I saw that video as well. My experience is as follows:

I used the machine hot and heavy for well over a year. Long sessions of PUBG, Rocket League, and a ton of intense computational efforts for work (CFD). This thing was under full load for probably 30-40% of each day during that period. The majority of the time, I had the battery removed (it bulged after a few months). Never once did the thing encounter a power issue until the whole machine refused to turn on a few weeks ago. Can't comment on what happened there, but I can say that the machine didn't seem to have an issue without the battery present.

I was running a moderate CPU undervolt but that only saved about 10watts under max load. The GPU would consistently run around 145-150W under full load. I had that running a slightly different voltage curve through Afterburner that prevented it from going beyond 1800Mhz.

I do not recall the battery ever draining while under load and plugged in. Perhaps we'll find out more once HID has diagnosed my unit.

 

So I only ended up getting it because I enjoy the Razer Product more then I originally thought I would and would like to play with the Mechanical Keyboard and also because I got the Razer 15 for it's size and went with the cooler running one and perhaps the one that is more "Portable". Hopefully having the setup of Razer Blade 15 for portable and 17 Pro for at home purposes will work out. I have multiple homes so I travel quite a bit but I stay at the homes for several months, so it's very ideal to have this type of a setup as compared to moving a desktop around.

 

Theoretically, the USB-C port on the RBP supports DisplayPort so you should be able to hook it up to a G-Sync-equipped external monitor. The 4K monitor on the RBP looked nice but it is trash for games.

 

Again, precautionary warning to anybody that owns Razer laptops in general: Razer leaves them massively undercooled from the factory. You will NEED to open it up and do some light mods to improve thermals and prevent failure down the road. Running them at high temperatures (which I consider anything above 80 to be too high), will cause board flex and/or shorten lifespan of VRMs/MOSFETs on the board. Some things to note about factory Razer Blades/RBPs:

1. They still use trash thermal paste. Use phobya nanogrease extreme if you want conventional nonconductive paste, Liquid Ultra/Conductonaut if you want ultimate cooling performance (I'm partial to liquid ultra, it spreads much, much easier)

2. The thermal pads they use on the GPU memory is half assed, only covering HALF of the memory chip...wtf right? Also seems to be made of low quality. I have ordered Gelid thermal pads 1.5mm thick, I'm sure they will improve thermal performance. It's inexcusable how razer designed a heatsink to cover HALF of the memory chips!

3. PCH is completely uncooled. There are no thermal pads on it, or thermal pads on any of the surrounding power phases. Solution? You guessed it, thermal pads! Thankfully since the bottom cover is metal, you can use thermal pads and stack them until they make contact with the bottom plate for some passive cooling. It's not ideal (fan cooling would have been better), but it's definitely better than nothing.

4. Some reports of SSDs not coming with thermal pads. Stock factory thermal pads are also garbage. Change out with higher quality pads, make sure they stack to reach bottom plate.

5. UNDERVOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Seriously, just do it. Reduce your stress on your power delivery components. I used XTU to drop my 7700HQ down by 160mV, the intel 630 GPU by 170 mV, and the GTX 1060 will run 1866mhz at 0.87V. System is much, much happier this way. Run cooler, reduce power load, reduce power consumption. Results will vary based on your silicon quality, I think I got better than average chips in mine. Total power draw while gaming on ARK/Metro 2033 is about 105-115W, which is the golden zone for this power supply (110w/165w * 100 = 66.6% load, which is typically in the most efficient zone of a power supply)

This is all I can think of right now since I disassembled my RBP. I hope to have a long service life with this machine, but I also paid only 50$ out of pocket for it, so I wouldn't be too bummed. I couldn't fathom paying the 2300$ they originally charged for this computer.

 

Yeah I will do everything you've stated Raidirar, thanks I'm still debating on what type of Thermal Grizzly to use. I'm not sure about your Razer Blade Pro, but on the 4k version it's a ***** to get the main board out to do this, and I'd like to avoid going in and out of it on a regular basis. Are the gains severely different between the two for this system?

 

Since the bottom space is completely un-cooled, I'm debating cutting into the back panel and simply adding two small external fans. These would evacuate heat remarkably well since there already exists an air exit at the rear of the chassis. A dremel tool should make this a simple operation. Two 50mm fans could be easily fixed to the backplate. Would need to remove for travel obviously, but it should work.

https://www.coolerguys.com/products/coolerguys-dual-50mm-component-cooling-fans-with-usb-connection

 

Identically the same, yes it was a pain, but it had to be done. Be very careful with the small cables not to break them. also be careful removing the fans, I did not disconnect them since I feared I would rip the wires (so small....). It is a very delicate process.

Bench with my tuned 1060 equipped RBP in 3dmark11: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/12899415

Frankly I'm very pleased with that given how thin the form factor is.

 

that 10% is more like 15-20 when you consider this doesnt have optimus, Optimus laptops do not utilize ANY NVCP tweaks so Vsync is always abysmally implemented and other tweaks are completely ignored

 

@RazerCS, expect a consulting invoice.

RBP Bottom Cooling CFD by slimjim8201 posted Aug 28, 2018 at 12:43 PM

 

well my fun with the pro is about to be short lived because i cant even use it in my home.. I have a great 1gb wifi service that works flawlessly with every Machine i own however the killer 1535 absolutely REFUSES to connect to it it will be in the process of connecting an the adapter itself just disables and comes back on and says unable to connect to network... I can connect to my phone just fine. This is annoying making the laptop unusable i may look into just buying the Intel ac 9620 since its only $20 and see how that goes but would that mess up the Ethernet?... also it gets unbearably hot even when im just typing a word document its a beautiful machine but beautifully uncomfortable.

 

make sure you update your 1535 wifi drivers from the killer website. I would definitely also open up and repaste the computer, I get sub 50 degrees C temps when doing web browsing/word processing.

 

yea thats the first thing i did was update the drivers... it just refuses to connect it will get to the point of verifying and then the entire wifi disables and re enables and I get a "unable to connect to this network" message. I went out and bought a AC wireless dongle plugged it into my usb and can connect to it just fine and i get 852mb down with it so i know its not my wifi. Im going to order the intel 9520 ac wifi card as i have never in my life had positive experiences with Killer chips and feel like they are just awful components company's throw in to charge more with a a flashy name... as for the re paste i am in the process of doing that now as this computer requires more work than any computer i have ever owned its on par with the M18 R2

 

It's worse than a M18x R2 in my opinion...and yes, killer is trash, but lucky for us, no whitelist for wifi cards, we just swap out. I will probably get 9260 as well.

 

I'm not really thrilled with the IGZO 4K monitor, maybe I'm biased but I prefer the Razer 15 144 Hertz IPS Pannel over this one even if it's only at 1080p. It seems to me that the IGZO is only good for looking at Still Images and isn't really a 'gaming' panel. Sad but true I'm going to end up using my 15 alot more than this thing.