Clevo W110ER Custom copper machined coolers

Its more that there is not much airflow inside the EM casing so adding extra thermal capacity might not help you actually get rid of any.

 

I've already discussed an idea of a laptop cooling board specifically for the Clevo with HTWingNut, it would "duct" air directly in to the case via chosen areas

- Long term project, its on the back burner

 

Clevo should have a docking station which would pull back covers on the casing and apply airflow and put an automatic OC on there..... *dreams on*

 

lol, I don't know about automatic OC and retracting covers, but DAM that sounds cool !!

I'll start a thread, for a more basic generic (ish, you know me) cooling board, but one that "fits" to the bottom of the clevo (I hate, with a passion, my lappy sliding about the board when its on my knee its so annoying).

It will no doubt be dormant for a while so keep an eye out or subscribe if you want

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/718040-custom-clevo-cooling-board.html

 

Interesting to see that Clevo changed the cooler design..... they list one with a smaller copper plate, and "sping" steel clamps (like the gpu has) rather than the direct bolt through holes we see now with springs & shoulder screws.....

I'm trying to determine if the gpu heat spreader incorperateds a different shape, maybe cooling the vram under the fan ? - I'm finding it hard to visualise without my lappy infront of me to compare against the picture.

I will be interesting to look in detail tonight and compare scale - see of they made the heat exchanger bigger/smaller or whatever

 

I checked, the extra metal is nowhere near where the VRAM is.
I actually slapped a thermal pad to allow the VRAM under the fan to contact the Fan Chassis. I dont know how much good it will do

 

DAM IT, I've just found someone who has fitted an extra few heatpipes to the W110ER....... I was planning on doing this, I've been sitting on this idea for a at least a month, I've even measured up...... stole my glory!!! - I'm just to slow on the uptake lol...

and dam, he did the PCH aswell..... I've got a heatpipe for each sat ready and waiting....... dam dam dam dam dam....... never mind, I'll do it anyway

 

Ohhhh what did he do to the PCH?

 

But he won't build it for others.

 

you mean you haven't seen it - ahhhh relief... I thought I was the only one

Enjoy..... who ever made this - they are now my hero..... although I would have liked to have been the 1st.... never mind - I guess this was a foolish ambition considering this is such a niche notebook.

W110ER massive cooling mod ("translated")

 

If make one, I'll be sure to make more if people want them, but it would be made to order!

* when I say "one" I don't mean the one he has there, just my own version.

 

Hmmmm that's odd then, because it does seen to have 2 "VRAM" size tabs! Maybe the W110 was originally convinced differently..... Here's my thoughts........and answer to your question maybe...

- when gaming i can put my finger on the DDR3 and they barely warm - they don't require any cooling from my perspective (maybe someone with a high OC can "touch test there's??) - connectingn them to the GPU heatspredaer will likely cause them to be warmed up by the GPU heat!

Ddr5 chips do get hot! Very hot! - maybe our little W110's originally had actively cooled ddr5?? - no doubt dropped as they probably out perform the stock 660m with minimal OCing..... Or maybe they just had the GTX 660m from the start

 

I have pulled all my copper blocks off. The problem I saw was that (with single fan) all radiated heated air, from copper blocks AND heat pipes must travel thru the single radiator. I removed bottom plate and added second fan via cooling pad. This did lower my PCH and idle temps but full bore game temps were, at best, 1-2 C cooler. Fan appeared to be running same speed.

It would be nice to see some HWinfo64 posts of stock vs heat sinks or this may just be an exercise in CNC machining? Maybe I was holding my tongue wrong.

I really liked Prema's link to the second fan, with added heat pipe. I spent a little time looking for materials but my Chinese reading skills sucks so must depend on google.

Like others, I have been intrigued with a water block mod. For me this would only be practical with easy access QD's for at home cooling but still allow for no drip corrosion free travel.

..just my pipe dreams...

 

Or just use my original idea of replacing sata with msata and place a fan there to blow across the CPU. that is one amazing mod though. A bit overkill for a W110ER I think, but if you can, then what the heck, why not!? that sucker must weigh over 5 lbs now, lol. I would like to see cooling results though.

Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2

 

I've considered many angles......... I'll share some of them but first..

Yes they must give off heat but , but the significant results are as you said at full bore gaming where temps are improved.

Method 1
I mentioned here earlier (or maybe privately with someone) was to bios the air flow. If you look on the inside of the bottom cover, you'll notice round bits of plastic around the fan area, these provide a gap, where air will be sucked in from inside the case. providing flow through the other vents (near the pch/ram and the little slot near the GPU) This airflow can be increased, without affecting the overall air flow through the fan by adding spacers to those pegs to make them bigger, I'm not suggesting you will be able to see a difference but it will help, especially if you use foam to block off air supply and duct it through a particular part of the case, ie over the PCH block. - The case is operating under negative pressure.

Method 2
Positive pressure approach..... fit a fan to the laptop (anywhere pretty much) that forces air INTO the case, and seal the main fan, so it only draw air from outside. This will mean the opposite that air is blow OUT of all those little holes, and these hole can be ducted using foam tape for exampe, to a cooler on the PCH/CPU what ever - slowly pushing airflow through the coolers and the out through the vents - separating the cpu/gpu heat from the internal heatsink heat - this would require a good seal, to ensure that the cpu fan doesn't "steal" the positive air pressure.


also
If you want to lower the temperature inside the case, cover/insulate the CPU heat spreader(stick on foam?), and lag the heat pipes with an insulator, this will ensure all heat is exhausted only through the heat exchanger and out of the machine..... its certainly an interesting idea/perspective.


If you want micro fans, you can buy them as small as 8mm x 8mm x 3mm and these could be fitted all over the case, but they are expensive - maybe a more typical 15x15x6 mm would fit, or even get 2 in there.

 

LED Cooling Module - Sunonwealth Electric Machine Industry

^ mini fans - some of the bigger blowers are 40x40x3mm - 2 of these would blow a good amount of air into the case, and would be easy to direct/duct

 

I've got a dead Sunon fan pulled from my FX. Replacement was used and not cheap; like one shot one year wonders.

Like every ounce save on a high end carbon fiber ten speed, every C of temp lowered could end up costing quite a bit, no? Right now I use a $6 single fan cooler (Sam's Club) that does well with stock laptop. This overpressures the whole bottom of W110er and really helps out with the PCH temps. When I used a two fan CoolMaster U2, CPU/GPU was no cooler and PCH temp was higher, disrupted airflow? Another $20 experiment but not what HTWingnut had in mind I'm saving the two 5V cheapo fans, with USB plug and harness, for further torture tests down the road.

Actually, I think Clevo did well with the W110er, obviously not low enough for some people as I store my copper blocks for a rainy day. The gap between fan and removable plate allows airflow when bottom vent blocked. Anyone notice cooler PCH temps with bottom fan vent blocked?

When warranty out, I was looking at looping and soldering a 3/16" copper pipe to the CPU heatsink. This would terminate to rear for water pump hook up via rubber couplers. For first step, just a gravity drip to measure heat rise differential in water block fluid. More pipe dreams

Calibre41, really looking forward to your mod. Please post some stock vs mod temps when you get caught up.

cheers

 

CPU temperature difference is around the 2-3 deg C mark at full load so it is really measurable and the first step to more improvements,

Yeah, I think Clevo did do well, and to be honest, regardless of how good they did, I'd STILL go forth and modify! :thumbsup:

this is my new hobby, I used to have extreme liquid and peltier cooled and heavily modified desktops, now I'm bored of desktop and there big size, and inconvenience, Laptops are my new thing!

 

W110ER manual lists an Nvidia N13P on the schematics....... so originally it maybe had the GT630m's 96 hot clocked Fermi cuda cores .... some difference.... it would have just been another low end gaming laptop........ that would have changed the game.....


Edit.... N13p is also the Kepler gt650 (it's etched in to it) odd to call 2 different architectures by the same code name???

 

Hey there, Calibre; would it be possible for me to sign up for the waiting list on these? My W110er cuts off when gaming (presumably overheating) using the nvidia chip, I think this will probably help with that. I'm also replacing all of my TIM with Phobya HeGrease Extreme or Liquid Ultra...

 

You need to check and double check the application of your thermal paste, even the standard paste should be sufficient, but you might have to get that returned to you reseller under warranty!

Between the CPU and GPU you should find the CPU runs hottest, but it should never cut out!

Check out HTWingNuts W110 review,

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo-reviews-owners-lounges/709178-htwingnuts-sager-clevo-review-thread.html

you'll find a massive chart of temperatures you should be around those temperatures if you have an average quad core setup, but sounds like its not a temperature issue!

Very best of luck, I hope this is a simple TIM issue

 

I replaced the TIM with some shin-etsu I had on hand, the laptop no longer cuts out when playing games ever; however I'd still like some additional cooling, hopefully squeeze a decent overclock out of it... The TIM was caked on there, far too much TIM was used from the reseller. No biggie, happens a lot.

 

Good news, I'll be in touch!

I've got my roll of Sekisui #5760 so I'll be in touch with the few people on the list as soon as I've a spare minute to apply it and ready them for posting.

 

Any updates on when it will ship and I can place my order?


Please let me know! Thankss

 

The TIM on these units is likely factory original and in that case their logic is too much is better than too little.

 

Yeah, here's my current temps (Disregard the use of Cinnamon, I'm migrating from Cinnamon to xmonad):

Seems to be below average @ stock.

GPU is actualy a little warm in that scrot, its idle at 45C atm. Warmer than I like (My main computer idles at ~30C +/- 3C depending on ambient temperature.) But it is a laptop, and a small one at that.

 

Clevo machines do tend to prioritise acoustics over temps a bit.

 

Hi guys, I'm back after a nice holiday about 3000km closer to the equator... :thumbsup:

I'll pick up and carry on, after a good service to the machinery once I finishing making a few upgraded parts for it, it will be back up and running, finally figured out the brass gib strips, I should hopefully have this finished by the end of the week.

The reason I'm servicing it is because I'm getting prepared to push it harder than its ever been, the main objective is to get it cutting 3 times deeper and 2/3 of the speed. So it should be twice as fast in theory..... and I'm confident - I'm more concerned the little 150w motor will cut out.... at which point, I know I've reached the limit of the kit.... which is the ideal target I guess.

 

Can you add me to the waiting list for one of those pls [email protected]

 

I will do, the machine is in bits at the moment awaiting parts from the states to arrive, until then I can't make any!

 

Hi there, also interested please.

[email protected]

 

We haven't heard from you in a long timeeeee where have you goneeee

 

I'll be back!


Just busy at the moment with other things, I've sold out of CPU covers ( and I still have a list of people waiting), so I'll do more once I get some free machine time. The PCH cooler is a different matter, I've bought the material but it's not proving easy to make at all, I need to build a jig before I can proceed and I'm still waiting for parts from the states for the machine although I have enough of what I need to make a start - except time of course!

 

what happen.. You didn't contact me for my cpu coolers

 

I will do, I'm just working out a few issues I've had with the machine. I'll be working on it today and should have the parts I need Tomorrow so I would hope to be up and running by Wednesday/Thursday.

I've gone back to the old 3.5A per phase on the motors of the CNC which will rapidly overheat them, so I need to push it harder to get the job done faster, accidents will happen! I'm changing the whole Z axis column tomorrow for a stiffer one and I've got my brass gib strips made so it should be a much more rigid setup, =)

 

Hi !

Great to here from you ! =)

Can you add me to your "mailing list" ? > [email protected]

Many thanks!

 

Hi buddy, you're already on the list, I don't have it to hand but I believe your names on the next batch.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH for contacting!!!!!

BTW, nice price mate. Keep up with the GOOD WORK:thumbsup:
Keep Cool

 

Ok I have a list of people & I have been going through the list and contacting people but it is taking far to long lol so I will contact EVERYONE on the list tomorrow and basically, I will confirm who wants one on Friday, and if I don't have enough we'll work it out from there, hopefully I have enough ??

Parts for the machine that should have arrived Saturday, didn't, so I assumed they'd arrive today & again they didn't..... I'm really annoyed, I've got time set aside in a phenomenally busy schedule and I feel like I'm forced on holiday/time wasting - it's so frustrating, I wanted to be up and running by now!

 

ok, I think the last of the blocks are likely gone, including an extra I made for myself.

I've received the parts for my machine today and have spent the last 5 hours grinding down cast iron by hand, with a 1000 grit diamond file.

I can tell you, I'm experiencing a new level of pain and discomfort...... but the machine is accurate enough for now, I'll invest in some better tooling and redo it in a few months once the casting and bits I've made have settled in.

so the plan is tomorrow, redesign the gcode for the cpu cover block, and Thursday start making them, 2 at a time. I should have 2 or 4 more ready by Saturday if things go well....... which they probably wont

Thanks for staying tuned, watch this space......

 

3hrs generating code for the new cutting procedure and the new machine is up and running - and when I say running I mean she is SWEEEEEEEEEEEET

The code removes "air cutting" which saves times, and digs 1mm deep per pass, so it will push out a cooler block in 7 or 8 passes - optimistic indeed, this is 3-4 times deeper than before which should give a more reasonable cutting time for a part this size.

I'm really looking forward to getting this new machine setup going tomorrow as well as the new code !! (hopefully I won't be met with to many issues, I do expect it can't handle 1mm deep cuts, I'll have to reduce the feed rate a bit :thumbsup - I wish I could go and do this now but I'll wake the neighbors and be at it till past midnight (it's 22:50 right now)

As stated previously I will contact everyone on the list, but as I don't have any blocks left, I'll refrain from shooting out emails just yet.

 

Well it cut ok, I'm not sure of the finish quality as it's still rough (ie I haven't deburred or cleaned it up, but it looks smooth) but it did take a very long time, I would have liked to have increased the speed but it was clogging up the cutter, and for the majority of the cut it just melted its way through rather than cut through.

There is one more thing I can try (a cutter with less flutes and 45° helix + some WD40 or PTFE coating on the cutter to try and prevent clogging) I'll order one today, but if that doesn't get these things cutting faster the price will have to change and I'll make these just to order, sorry guys I can't put to much more time in to this as I have other projects now!


Ohhh and for reference, it took about 2 hours + 1 hour messing about unclogging the cutter because this alloy is so soft it turns to mush when it heats up

 

Your next add-on





Maybe try a close in vacuum hose for cooling and housekeeping? One of the shop-vacs will handle cuttings and cutting oil no problem. Sorry, I meant cutting fluid. Using wd40, like I have with SS, may be a fire hazard sitting in a bucket.

 

Yeah I've got all the kit and proper cutting/tapping fluid concentrate, but as you can imaging, it's extremely messy, and all my electronics are really not suited to this, I need to remove that great big silly box from the top of the machine which houses all the controls and sit this thing inside an enclosure, before I do that I have a few other issues to iron out like my loss of steps (still) at low speed over a very basic step pattern of down 1mm up .5 down 1.5 (continued to a depth if 8mm) I lost a staggering 0.8mm (thats 800 steps?!?!?) I think it was linked to the low speed, my motor is cheap and likely doesn't micro step very well, 3-1 drive required maybe?! And I might go 2-1 on the cross table too, I was't able to fit reduction pulley before because the setup wasn't ridgid enough with the old tilting column, now it's a smooth as a baby's bum. I also haven't yet fitted my homing and limit switches.... To busy trying to run with this machine before I have started to walk.....

Ooo and I've got a 1400w vacuum unit but it also needs a housing and a catch bag, trying to work a budget so £200 for a second hand shop vac isn't in my price range, also I was tryin to find some 1" (or bigger) clip lock hose to use for the vacuum but no luck yet....


10char to 10,000

 

Heya just installed it, kudos on the really really tight tolerances. Temperatures vastly improved, I'm only getting 60-65 degrees on Prime95 High heat FFT test. I was getting about 75-82 before. ambient temps are still the same.
Looks really professionally done too.

Thanks a lot, well worth every pound. really looking forward to the PCH unit

 

Glad to hear user reports back that actually give temps. How long did you run Prime95 for and what kind of cooling stand are you using?

I to am looking forward to the PCH mod and how effective it is.

 

This totally destroys what I was able to achieve with stick on copper blocks with bottom plate off and using small cooler fan blowing directly on mod!!!!!

I used my favorite "fuzzy donut" bench to test previously.

Hey Cal, can we get these in a choice of colors

 

Ran prime for about 10 minutes, same for with and without the block. No cooling stand, just fn + 1 for max fan speed and propped up. It's a really efficient design because it doesn't impede airflow, and and the improvement is primarily due to less heat being transmitted by the heatpipe which I found gets saturated at about 80 degrees (I. E. all the fluid is sitting at the heatsink). I've also duct taped the fan to the heats ink to minimise hot air leakage.

 

Calibre41, are you still filling the list with new people? I want one, take my money!!

 

not really

sorry , you or I could get them electroplated but it would cost more than the block!!

you can DIY electroplate relatively cheap, I believe you just have to buy the right solution (ie copper sulfate) and bathe the block in it while passing current through - so you could have it actually coated in copper which would increase heat dissipation at the surface a little.

very similar processes for anodizing - but with a different solution, and the anodaiac layer can be dyed all sorts of colours (is commonly seen in OEM chipset and ram coolers ) - this method has the benefit of protecting the base material (really superbly) as well as electrically insulating it - but this may slightly reduce the heat dissipation (although we're talking 10-15 microns thick so not much to stop heat really)