P150EM upgrade GPU to GTX 1060

Ran Heaven on extreme for an hour:
30 minutes in it had topped out at 80c on a laptop cooler pad
60 minutes it topped out at 84c with the cooler pad turned off for the last 30 minutes

By the end of the test it was starting to get uncomfortably warm in this room, didn't want to throw off the test by opening the window though, so at least some of that heat drift up over the hour was increase in ambient.

This was with fans on high, the 2 peace heatsink (properly lapped), the copper shim was lapped (really just a polish at from 1000 grit and up, it was quite good, the heatsink I had to take a few thou off, it was bad enough I could have started on a milling machine and saved myself 40 minutes and most of a sheet of 200grit), TG conductonaut used on both sides of the shim and the plastic bottom cut out over the fans and replaced with fan grills.

 

1060 just <10% better than 980m, but it is better for oc

 

It can actually be closer to 20% over in games.

 

rather +30.8% in games

Link: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Nvidi...-1080-SLI-GTX-1070-and-GTX-1060.171566.0.html

Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk

 

In terms of their "performance rating" perhaps but most popular titles I saw were in that 20% area.

 

thanks for let me know. 30% is a lot

 

Hi, guys.

Just signed up here and please need some help: I do have a second hand Clevo P15SM, seems like still a good machine to work with. And I´d like to confirm if I can upgrade my GTX770m to a GTX 1060m or a GTX 1070m. If yes, what do I need to change also (bios?, modded driver?, new PSU?). Thanks in advance and best regards from Brazil!

 

If you don't already have one, I suggest you get at least a 180W PSU, there is also a compatible 200W PSU from mysn (schenker) in germany (they rebrand clevos) which might be better if you really want to go with the 1070.

You will also need a Prema bios (maybe the V3 version).

I'm not sure about the drivers but I think if you have the Prema V3 bios the untouched standard nVidia ones should work.

Hope that helps

 

@woodzstack

 

Get the MSI 1060N card from @woodzstack , he will also guide you though the entire thing and tell you what you need.

 

Hi, Raexaender. Thanks for the input!

Abou the PSU, could I use something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHICON...epid=0&hash=item3f956befba:g:08YAAOSw2ilal1sE

"You will also need a Prema bios (maybe the V3 version)."

Where can I find this BIOS? Looks like I can´t find it anymore.

 

Hi, sicily428. I´ll contact him. Thanks!

 

Hey, Danishblunt. Thanks for the input too!

Could I upgrade to a 1070 instead of a 1060?

 

Yes you can, however only with an eurocom card. Woodzstack also has those on stock.

The GTX 1060 will work plug and play without modded vBIOS and EC, I think the GTX 1070 needs Prema BIOS in order to run at full performance, otherwise I think it'll nerf itself a bit to hard.

 

Yup, it's what I do.

 

Hi, woodzstack! Tried to contact you via facebook. I´m newbie and dont know yet how to PM you here. haha

 

I'll just PM you here

 

I am not sure but I think the connector used on the PSU you linked to is different to what your notebook uses, so although the PSU fits electrically, it wont fit physically.


I actually don't know for sure but I think the only way is to buy a card from Prema's partners. If you buy your 1060/1070 from them you get the required bios for free.
I don't know who Prema's partner-shops are though, but I know there are some

 

Where did you get your PSU from? I can't find a affordable source for 230W PSUs for P150em :/

 

Back in the day I posted a guide to open up your PSU and solder the cable across. It can make sourcing the PSU you want much easier.

 

Is anyone besides me actually running a 1070 in their p150em or p170em? I had no troubles running some benchmarks, ran heaven for an hour without a crash but I just can not get this laptop stable for gaming, its usually good for about 30 minutes or so and then, depending on os, either bsod or driver tries to restart and fails and I need to end the program.

DDU was used in safe mode for all driver swaps

So far I have tried:
Fresh install of 10 with updates (intel 4885) (nvidia 388.13, 390.77, 391.01)
Prema v2 1t
Prema v3b 2t (only with my original 1600mhz ram, won't get in to windows with 2133mhz ram)
Windows 10 bsod with video_tdr_failure of nvlddmkm.sys

Fresh install of 7 with updates (intel 4885, 4653) (nvidia 387.92, 388.13, 391.01)
Prema v2 1t (tied 1600mhz and 2133mhz ram)
Windows 7 doesn't bsod but the driver is crashing, 387.92 was probably working the best, 388.13 wasn't working right at the desktop and 391.01 would black screen then resume in a few seconds usually but not always, when it failed I couldn't end task the game like I could with 387.92

Windows 10 was installed 3 different times, I tested both with uefi and without.

If the fans are maxed it might be going a bit longer, its hard to say, sometimes its 10 minutes, sometimes 40 minutes but too random to nail down. I have tried a couple different games and have noticed that if I just leave it running in one spot with no ai around, low cpu use that it goes a lot longer than if I am fighting heavy for extended periods or running heavy ai against me in a strategy game.
At this point I am starting to wonder if the motherboard just can't handle this gpu and a 55w cpu (its set to stock turbo settings, not my normal 4.3ghz that was rock solid with my 680m)

Any sugestions would be appreciated, especially anyone who is running the 1070, I have a drive with 7 and a drive with 10 installed so trying things is easy.

 

Try a reasonable underclock on the GPU, it could be the motherboard power delivery being overloaded.

 

Power limit, temp limit and core voltage are greyed out in afterburner so I dropped the entire clock curve down 200mhz then played Diablo 3 for 5 hours, no crashes.
Game was set all settings maxed, lowest fps I saw was 76, usually was at 110ish. Core was bouncing between 1550~1580mhz, performance cap was almost always vrel but pwr did occasionally pop up (had all the monitoring on the laptop screen, gamed on an ext). When I have a chance I will try playing R6 Siege before fiddling more.

Windows 7, Prema v2, nvidia 387.92, intel 4653. CPU in the 75c range, gpu at about 85c. Fans maxed.

As soon as its back I will grab the flir camera from work and grab some thermals, I want to see exactly what is going on temp wise, maybe something like the core is 85 but the vrm's are hotter, something isn't getting cooled etc. Really interested to see the power plug at the board and I want to see what the voltage drop is across it, the guys with the 17" have the 4 pin connector, that might make a huge difference. Also have to test if its just the traces to the gpu or the whole notebook, that should be easy but time consuming, just find the highest stable gpu speed then redo the oc on my cpu and see what happens.

Bottom line, it did maintain higher than base 1442mhz speed and my 200mhz downclock is likely overkill but anyone who has bought or is going to buy a 1070, you may need to downclock some, especially with a xm cpu. I will update when I have more.

Oh and how do I send Prema $, I think he deserves a bit for making this possible

 

I was two TDR failure crashes couple of days ago too. Win 10, nvidia 388.77 driver, Intel 4885, Prema v2 T1 bios. Now I am testing flat curve to right from 0.975 voltage point. Core points are 1785MHz from that voltage point.
Stable so far, but about 1 hour Mafia 3 temperature was 88 °C.
I am worried about VRM temps too.

#Kovlin, do you have 2-piece heatsink in your P150EM? I have stock P170EM vram heatsink and vga heatsink from P170SM-A.

 

Yes I am running a 2 piece heatsink but it is not the one that came with my laptop, bought it from Eurocom with the 1070. Its a bit different than the old 2 piece one, it didn't have those alignment straps at 2 of the corners but does still need the copper shim. As far as I can tell everything else is the same though, the vrm heatsink has the same part # as the old one, the part number for the main cooler got washed off while I was lapping it though so I can't post that.

I wouldn't have bought another heatsink except I am giving my 680 and heatsink to my cousin for his P151EM

Maybe I should notch this heatsink to clear and then remove the copper shim, might help slightly but I doubt it, both sides are done in liquid metal already.

 

Is there a guide for that?

 

There are two R47 chokes next to the GPU core that are higher than the GPU surface. It will block the heatsink from having proper contact with the GPU core. though having a copperpad can solve the problem, it's better to modify the heatsink

Also, you can use mobile pascal TDP tweaker to lower the TDP a bit. My GTX 1060 hits ~86W(total power 136W)/76C on ETH mining (It's default TDp is only 75W). so it's probably better to get it lower.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-connector-around-lets-do-it-properly.688665/

( Copied below with images rescued from the clutches of photobucket, pasted exactly as it was back then)

PSUs can be dangerous, allow to fully discharge before opening!

NO SERIOUSLY, this brick took minutes to properly discharge!


Make sure the PSU can be opened, many are sealed units!

Doing this mod voids your warranty (Brick and system it is used on) and all safety certificates on your brick.

This mod is done by me and is in no way connected to powernotebooks. If you use this guide you do so at your own risk and I accept no liability for any of your mods.

Our vic... *cough* I mean brick of choice today is the big daddy at the bottom of the pile.



Manufactured by delta for use with the M18X this bad boy packs 330W at 19.5V.

Flipping it over you will see 4 removable feet covering the screws.



It uses torx anti tamper screws so you need one of these:



T10 security torx screwdriver (hollow 6 point star).

Let's plug it in and test the voltage shall we? NO WAIT A SECOND ACTUALLY.



DO NOT SHORT THE CENTRE PIN WITH THE INSIDE OF THE BARREL

It will kill the brick. So measure it but be careful!

Now let's take that cover off after removing the 4 screws:



You have two choices, unsolder the 4 tabs holding the shield in place, gently pry off the glue holding it all on or....

cheat:



Nice chunky leads for obvious reasons:



So you are going to have to unsolder each of the 3 connectors, ground (outside of the barrel) is next to the small data pin connector. Solder in your harvested cable from another brick into the holes.

Pop the case back on and measure the no load voltage (should be around 19.5V)

 

Hello !

I have a P150EM running an GTX 675M that clearly can't handle nowadays games in good conditions. It also have an i7 3740QM, 16Gb of ram and a good SSD+HDD combo. Spec wise, apart from the GPU, my laptop is still quite decent compared to current gen laptops.
So it goes without saying that I'm seriously considering to upgrade it with a GTX 1060 if it can extend even more its lifespan for a couple more years since 2012.

That being said:

1. After reading this whole thread (and others found via google), I'm still not sure about the whole stability of this upgrade. This laptop is my workstation and I dealing with constant stability issue is clearly not ideal. Can someone provide some details about this? I heard about some issues with the laptop's screen and/or the DisplayPort/DVI/HDMI outputs. I know about the whole 60Hz limit due to the Intel Graphics... but I can live with that.

2. My P150EM is running on Prema bios (1.02.17PM v2 to be precise). I heard about a Prema v3 bios. Would I need to update the bios as well?

3. I have a 180W PSU, would it be enough even on heavy loads?

4. I live in France. I'm considering Eurocom Europe to buy the 1060 since they seems to provide a whole upgrade package with needed tools and stuff. But what's exactly inside the box? Is there a tutorial to upgrade? I've never upgraded a laptop's GPU and considering the price of this stuff (laptop and GPU), I clearly don't want to mess up on bit.

Thanks for your help !

 

@Eurocom Support

 

Bump. Any help is appreciated

 

1.) The 60z limit is a bug on intel graphics driver on windows 10. This only happens for the HD 4000 intel GPUs. Stability won't be an issue.

2. The V3 version is private I think, you don't need to update.

3.) It will be plenty

4.) Considering you never have upgarded your GPU and such I strongly suggest going for a 980M instead. The GTX 1060 has a more flat GPU die which makes terrible contact of the heatsink even worse. So considerin the 980M is pretty close to the 1060 and is plug and play rather than requiring to mod your heatsink, you might want to consider this instead.

 

Thanks !

1. Forgot to mention but I'm running Win8.1 Update 1 which also have this issue. Thought it was a limitation due to the P150EM DP/DVI outputs being hardware limited to 60Hz... Oh well a stable 60Hz is enough when I'm on the go.

2. Sounds good !

3. Great !

4. Yeah I considered upgrading to the 980M for a while now. But turns out the 980M is more expensive than the 1060 but the 1060 is more powerful than the 980M. I'd rather go for the 1060 then !
But what do you mean about the heatsink contact issue? What mod is required and is it difficult/risky? I think I missed that part on the thread...

 

1.) I think it's more driver related, but whatever.
4.) Well I can tell you what I did:
I took a shim (can't remember, i think 0.3) and some solderpaste which melts at around 138c. I clamped the heatpipes with metal clamps on the copper plate if you don't do this then the plate will fall off from the heatpipes and you'll have to solder it back on. I pasted the shim and clamped that one also to the heatsink plate, then i used a heatgun to warm it up so that the paste turns to solder and then soldered the shim on the plate, be aware when doing this, do not heat up to much otherwise the heatpipes will blow up, also don't use a to thick shim, otherwise you might end up cracking your GPU die with to much pressure.

You also need some 3cm thermal pads and some other pads to have the right cooling on the components.

 

Woah. Quite some DIY stuff to do indeed. Is it mandatory for the upgrade?
I might be wrong, but IIRC this is the first time I read about this issue when googling the whole P150EM/1060 compatibility threads.

 

Unless you want to try out your luck with 92c throttling gameplay i'd say yes.

Without vBios mod the card starts the throttling at 59c, so yeah performance will go down the drain and the card will be steamy hot. So I don't suggest not modding heatsink beforehand.

 

Yeah this mod seems to be indeed rather useful...
Is there any complete tutorial ?
Also looking forward to @Eurocom Support / @EUROCOM Europe response on that matter.

 

If it's a workstation then spend the money on a warranty supported new system and don't play around with cards and older hardware.

 

For mine, I lapped the stock heatsink flat then used liquid metal on both sides of a slim shim to space it. The heatsink was out by a lot stock, large dips where they pressed the heatpipes on. Took about an hour to plane it flat with a thick piece of glass as a work surface, started at 150 grit and worked up to 2000 for the finish. Then some high quality electrical tape, conformal coating or clear nail polish on any components close to the core in case the liquid metal runs. Not saying this is the best method but it seems to have worked for me. I do still run up to 91c on my 1070 if I leave the fans on auto in something like Rainbow 6 Siege, but with the fans locked full it's mid 80s with all settings maxed.

Stability wise, I would say it could be a bit better but am quite sure I can get it stable, already with a bit of testing I have got it to hours between bsod, I am still tinkering with where to limit clock speed. I think the vbios needs to be set to a bit lower wattage. For a 1060 I doubt that this is an issue at all. If you need something stable right out of the box for work then buy a brand new rig with exactly what you need. If you don't mind tinkering and enjoy this kind of thing, its a fun project. This almost 6 year old laptop is keeping up with desktops that friends put together in the last year.

 

Sorry for the stupid questions
May a GTX 1060m coded n17e-g1-a1 works with a p150em?
There is some step by step guide or video for install it?
I need some modified bios or heatsink (I have a 675m atm)

Really thanks in advance

 

That's a core stepping from nvidia, it can be placed on many PCBs.

 

So you think I may place on my laptop?

 

I have no idea, you have to take it on case by case basis, have you read through the thread from the beginning?

 

The seller said in was in a clevo p870...

 

P870dm2/3 then no, the card is a different shape.

 

is gecube 1060 work in p170em? i have eurocom neptune 2.0 bios

 

I believe it does.

 

Curious question, does anyone know if the 1070 in the Clevo P150EM functions any better with the so called Prema V3 BIOS I keep hearing about?
I been thinking if possible could have soldered on one or two more heatpipes to the GPU heatsink and solder on a copper shim so it fits on the die better.
I can acquire the 1070 easily from Chinese vendors I been talking to for reasonable prices for once but but there not much point if it still has performance bottleneck with performance comparable to the 1060.

 

IIRC the V3 was specifically for the 9xx series. Something in the back of my head is saying V2 runs better with the 10xx series. We are of course talking about custom firmware with something I have not experimented with.

 

Ah yes I remember there being a separate bios for the 9XX, but I did not know it was the V3, well thanks seems like 1070 too bottleneck in the P150 then