P150EM upgrade GPU to GTX 1060

IIRC the V3 Bios was a private BIOS from prema that did more finetuning and did 9xx series card natively supported by the drivers, which made them installable without modding drivers.

The bottleneck you're talking about mostly stemps from limited TDP. Especially the Gecube version which is limited to 115W compared to the MSI 150W.
Also due to pascal cards having a thinner die, you need a shim in order to do proper contact, otherwise it will heat up considerably.

 

That's not too surprising but it's about the best the chassis will produce.

 

Hi,

I don't have PM privileges yet otherwise I would go that route, but I am trying to reach Meaker@Sager to ask a question regarding the GT780DX. I ordered some parts and have some questions so that I can avoid damaging any components. Is there a mod who can give me PM ability? Thank you

 

Sup guys! God my hands (for free) in an old P151EM with prema v2 bios... tried to put my 1070 on it but after i install the drivers windows keeps bsoding!! should i try the P150EM official bios?

Is there any ideas of what might be? and yeah i´m using the 180W power brick.

 

Which 1070 is it? Eurocom one? Also the 180W power brick is WAY too small for the 1070, you need 230W one from Eurocom.

 

Yeah the 1070 eurocom one, i dont mind getting the 230W i just need to see it booting well after that i go around to find the right power brick. Could this BSOD be the card not getting the juice that it need than windows goes bananas because of that?
Should i go and flash the P150EM bios on it? i have Prema's 1.02.17PM V2 and EC 1.02.11PM

[Edit]
O Yeah about the 230W looking fast here the plug is different, any ideas?

 

Which windows are you using? I forgot to ask, if I remember you need either W8.1 or W10 running in UEFI mode with GPT partition.
Also the Eurocom 230W brick you can find it on the P150EM upgrade side works with the P151EM, same plug

 

Latest W10 and i'm not using uefi mode.... could this be the the cause of constant BSOD?!?

I found this one here Delta 230W the problem is the tip but i can just rip the tip and solder it with my older one.

 

You need to use UEFI, disable legacy and use GPT partition, MBR wont do.
You will sadly have to reinstall Windows .
Use a different harddrive to test it so you wont have to purge your already installed Windows image in case it wont work but it should.

Also they sell converter cables you can use instead of modifying the brick.

 

Hmm good to know no need to cut and solder the part Have any links for it?

 

Never cut and solder PSU cables, you can open the brick and desoldering/swap cables from the PCB, FAR safer.

 

Yeah was thinking about this too but my cable is already eaten a little, i'll probably get a cable too but is dificult to find it in ebay WTH :/

 

Yes and the ones you do find tend to be too thin. A dead brick is great to harvest from.

 

By the way anyone knows a good LDC panel that is compatible with the 10XX cards? i've checked my mobo (P151EM) and it has the Display Port socket in it.

 

http://www.panelook.com/sizmodlist....ion=120&signal_type_category=70&st=E10&by=asc

Make sure the monitor sports the exact same pin size and Form Style as supported monitors of your laptop and you are good to go and if you buy on eBay be sure to inquire the seller of the monitor he sells is really that exact model he listed, very often these leeches will ship a different monitor.

 

http://www.panelook.com/sizmodlist....ion=120&signal_type_category=70&st=E10&by=asc

Make sure the monitor sports the exact same pin size and Form Style as supported monitors of your laptop and you are good to go and if you buy on eBay be sure to inquire the seller of the monitor he sells is really that exact model he listed, very often these leeches will ship a different monitor.[/QUOTE]

thans man huge help here

I'm thinking about doind the same as i did with mine p375sm if everything goes right with pics and stuff

 

o yeah do you guys know any place to buy a better heatsink for the p150? i was testing it out with a 980m and man 88ºC (190,4ºF) just running 1080p furmark benchmark, i even did a copper shim... should i go down on the 980m core voltage?

 

Is your heatsink all one piece or does the VRM part separate?

 

Just keep in mind the 980M is a 122W GPU
88 degrees in furmark sounds pretty normal for it, I assume you have the AMD heatsink for the P150, I heard the P150SM heatsink is better than the EM, less warping

 

You have different fin designs, the best are the all in one piece parts.

 

Is the one with vrm part separated :/

I really don't know which heatsink it is. My goal here is to test it with the 980m before going for the 1070

And @SMGJohn my LCD panel is LG Phillips Lp156wf1 i did not found the same here in Brazil trying to find something as good as this or better

 

This is the best one for p1x0xm series:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heatsink-K...495308?hash=item4666ce1fcc:g:jGoAAOSwj1habizh

 

Hmm thanks man i'll get one of those

 

I upgraded my P370EM3 heatsinks few years ago and my master card (that uses same heatsink as mentiod above) had no temperature improvment. Note that I had closed all gaps between heatsink and fan. So in my case 2-piece heatsink performed as good as one piece SM-A heatsink.
Later I added extra fins to cover whole fan length and got few degrees lowered.

 

Your 370em do not use same heatsink as mentiod above,they differ in dimensions. On left p170 heatsinks and on right p370's one. Compare the thickness of heatpipes, there is no possibility that a change to the "better" version did not bring benefits in the form of temperature drop.

 

You would need to cut the chassis to use the 370EM one yes, so not a discrete mod.

 

Those little heatsinks help with heat dissipation? did you used thermal adhesive to fix them.

 

For some reason I had same temperatures. Might be some variables in testing then. Newer heatsink for sure looks like it should perform better.

 

I used thermal adhesive from Arctic Silver(in two tubes, they must be mixed with each other before use). The truth about them is that to get the temperatures lower they require active air circulation, my laptop had open bottom cover(flap) and stood on the notepal u3 plus(3xfan) and gtx1060 had about 70°.
If the back of the laptop is high enough, and does not suck in the blown hot air, the maximum temperature of gpu does not exceed 75 ° c. Even with the whole, closed housing and without notepal fans working. the only downside is the increased volume of the cooling system.

 

Hmm, i have the 1070 and when i'm GAMING the GPU [Core: 1835Mhz Memory: 4000Mhz -- Voltage 0,861] usage is about 70% to 90% (PUBG) and it goes around 82ºC and room temp is about 29ºC in IDLE the GPU [Core: 607Mhz Memory: 405Mhz -- Voltage 0,574] usage about 10% to 30% stays around 48ºC.

so I was thinking if theres any improvement that i could do

 

With a modded bottom cover and cooling stand fans those ramsinks can help shave off temps by increasing the surface area.

 

Man i have the Cooler Master SF19 but it's soo bulky i'm thinking about building one myself to be less bulky more thin and sleek

 

It needs to be pretty beefy to support mine!

 

Well i just made a foot for my notebook to be more taller and opened the fan grill for more airflow the gap between the surface and the fan hole is about 2.5cm (0.98 inches).

I was thiking about building a jig with a fan and some controlers find a way to attach it to the back of the notebook... But do this just to push more air inside and shave what about 5ºC i don't know if its feasible.

 

I modded my cooler master stand:

 

Hey guys today i broke my lvds cable here in brazil is a mess to find some parts only importing but i want to know if any of you know if there are any cables that are similar to mine LVDS 6-43-X5101-001-A i found some with this codes and same brackets but i don't know if they work as mine:

These are some of the numbers that i found:

Lvds 6-43-c4801-090-1a
Lvds 6-43-c4801-061
Lvds 6-43-c4801-041
Lvds-6-43-w9401-011-k

 

WOW cool how did u make this?? Did you use an arduino to make the temp sensor work?

 

It's an aquaero 5lt and farbwerk LED controller, I used a dremel to cut the holes in the steel front (this took a while) and mounted everything as you see. I have since added another LED strip to the front for the other fan.

 

Just a little update on my config upgrade. After months and months of waiting, I was able to purchase a GTX 1060 on taobao when I was on a trip in China. The seller insisted that I also upgraded my PSU to a brand new 230 instead of 180. Installing the GPU was quite easy for the most part (didn't need a shim after all). Finding the correct INF code might have been the most complicated to do haha.
Anyway, stable at around 45 degrees idle and running very smoothly on current AAA on high/ultra presets, around 50 to 70 degrees. Very happy with that upgrade !
Cheers !

 

I call doubt.

 

45c idle seems normal for a system that shuts off the gpu when not in use

 

looks over at her gtx1070 @ 38C idle.... in Discrete mode.

 

Now do 45idle and 50 on load.

 

Fps lock @60, fn+1(fn+9), cooler pad/stand for laptop... for example notepal u3 with fan replacements like Noctua NF-F12 working on an external power supply(from the wall)...
which was used by some members of our community to show great temperatures of their laptops, not necessarily mentioning the fact of using it.

 

I'd take the higher figure as the more likely.

 

No its actually pretty accurate, I have had 1060 in my P150 myself and had 50 to 70 degrees in games, I had a shim on mine so yes, its very possible the only game that actually pushed my 1060 to really high temps is Frostpunk which pushes my Vega 56 even way higher than any other game does.

 

I don't doubt that you can reach 50-70c on a P15x notebook with a 1060, however you should not have an unmodded heatsink and idle temps of 45c.

also what is really high??
As far as I can tell the game is as demanding as witcher 3, crysis 3 etc.

 

He could be using the one piece heatsink instead of the two piece, he could have added more copper to his heatsink like I did which delays the raising temps but wont lower it.
Witcher 3 and Crysis 3 never pushed my 1060 or Vega 56 as much as Frostpunk did, probably all the Gimpwork in it that does it, it really gets crazy when all the smoke effects starts hitting you in the face my WX 7100 could barely do 30fps in late game periods but 1060 chugging along very nicely, usually it would go to about 85 degrees on me, only extreme video rendering would push it to 90 degrees if left for an entire day working that is with a two piece heatsink in the P150 and with some copper added on it as extra.

 

Witcher 3 and Crysis 3 have 2 things in common, both are extremely CPU intensive. Maybe CPU causing the GPU not being used as much.
But it's interesting that you found something that can stress CPU quite a bit.

 

Hello all,
I'm looking to upgrade to a 1060 and need some help.
I've read through the 30 pages on ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/p150em-upgrade-gpu-to-gtx-1060.798609/), but it's quite confusing since with various people asking about other cards and laptop models.

I'm hoping this page will establish a more concrete sort of guide.

Here's my computer today:
Model: Clevo P150EM
BIOS: Prema Mod 1.02.17PM v2
GPU: 680M (4gb)
vBIOS: 80.04.12.00 (modded vBIOS)

Materials to buy:
1. 1060 GPU
2. 20x20x0.3 mm copper shims - Not required if buying GPU design shown in next post

Process:
1. Remove old card and clean-up
2. Move some heat pads to appropriate locations see next post
3. Install new card
4. Flash new vBIOS (see below)
5. Modify drivers ( https://null-src.com/posts/nvidia-notebook-driver-inf-mod/post.php)

Can someone confirm I've got these down correctly and I would would love to get some clarification on items 4 and 5. At the link above (especially page 17), there were several vBIOS's thrown around (86.06.19.00.08, 86.06.44.00.08, 86.06.1F.00.05). Which one should I use? UPDATE: Stock vBIOS may be acceptable. See next post for details on 1C20 vs 1C60.

Several people have also mentioned modifying their drivers. Is this necessary?
UPDATE: YES REQUIRED

Finally, I want to confirm one thing another post brought up. Are there any issues with eDP? There was some discussion around the laptop display not working with the 1060, but no other posts confirm that. UPDATE: Not an issue

Looking forward to hearing from you,