P870KM1-G - CPU Heatsink -WaterBlock?

Whenever I do a mod to these Clevos, there's always, and I mean always, something else that needs to be tinkered with as well. I agree that it can be frustrating at times, so I tend to work on it for a few hours then depending on how frustrated or tired I get, take a day or two off

Sometimes it's better to come back with a fresh pair of eyes instead of getting all worked up over something trivial.

 

Solid bit of advice brother, what made it worse was my bank blocked my card in amazon... More hassle.

Anyway.
K5 Pro and a measuring device to measure the mm of thr IHS should be arriving tomorrow.

If things were always easy everyone would do it.

Don't mind a challenge, just need a time out

 

Tinkering with computers is like cars, it's a complete system so changing one thing often brings another in that brings another.

 

@cope123abc thermal conductivity is directly proportional to distance

 

Fuming...


So it turns out after relentless hours after applying K5 Pro on the thermal pad area the reason I'm getting huge spikes on the GPU is because the seller forgot to send me a shim over for the gpus...

Not very happy to say the least

How do I go about adding the shim guys, does it have thermal paste either side of the shim to bond the 2 surfaces together.

 

Always on both sides.

See... want copper shim on Cpu you’ll need use paste on both sides more like bread sandwich.

 

Hey bro from my testing the cpu temps seem same as other heatsink on the initial 60 second stress test, so they are not a million miles out.

The gpus both spike from 40 to 90 within around 5 seconds.

I have just ordered around 40 mixed shims.

What thickness should I start with this seller is an idiot and I'm really annoyed at his poor attitude.

It's only the gpus that need a shim apparently.

 

That sucks

I ordered a pack of these for my p775tm1 back in the day, it includes 25 shims, that are 20x20mm, and are of different thickness (5 pieces of each thickness). These shims cover the entire 1080 die.

 

The gp104 die is 17x20mm so I'd advise 25x25mm or bigger shims just so you have a bit of tolerance.

Liquid metal is a good way to 'stick' a shim into a heatsink, when is pushed down it can build up a really strong suction effect and then also with the drying out effect over time it will end up quite difficult to detach.

Soldering using paste is an alternative, I reckon a heat gun on max or a butane blowtorch would be needed to heat up the area fast enough without risking desoldering anywhere else, and then a bit of a polish to make it look nice again (the copper will discolour from a blowtorch).

 

Good point, I remember reason I bought that set in particular was because it had several different types of thickness. And I wasn't sure which one would fit. And as you mentioned LM has a suction effect when placing the shim on the die, you have to be certain it did not move as 20x20mm shim gives you no leeway.

 

Thanks guys for the advice ordered 1mm 25x25 as advised by seller.

He said the 2080 doesn't need the copper shim but 1080 does the heatsink is the same, is there any truth to this? is the 2080 die bugger than the 1080?

Also see attached - i am pretty sure the heat pipes are warped slightly... could this also mean the copper heat plate is warped?

Do you think this will affect the overall performance this "bow" @Papusan @jc_denton @bennyg

 

Yeah it has a bigger die. The 2080 die is 545mm2 vs 1080's 314mm2
It's hard to tell if its just saggin due to it's own weight.However, I wouldn't begin trying to twist and warp it to straighten it, you might compromise the welds and overall integrity.

Also, when it's installed in the system and resting, it might not be an issue.

 

I will be patient and see, the actual copper heatsink does appear flat to be fair, I just ran a ruler over and there was no gaps.

Is the height of the die on the 2080 higher then do we know?

 

The heatsink is forced into position when screwed down. The shape helps pressure.

 

But the heatsink is upside down in that picture, so the pressure would be the opposite to what you would want.

My shims arrive tomorrow, will be able to fully test then.

I think the seller maybe genuine with the shim for the 1080 vs the 2080 scenario .

if not - it's going back.

 

It's not going to make much of a difference when it's in but it is the right way yes.

 

Your right I think? it sits exactly like that picture in the machine, and the screw pressure would work against the heatsink?

 

Yes, it's thin metal and a lot of screws.

 

So update guys.

Installed the 1.2mm shims.

It's not performing anywhere near what I expect on water or air, but a vast improvement!
It must be down to the fact my CPU IHS is 0.6mm bigger than stock IHS and the GPU Shim is 0.2mm higher than what's recommended (by this seller).

So there is at least a 12 degree + room for improvement.

I have ordered a replacement Copper Stock height IHS which is 3.5 vs 4.1 I measured my Bitspower at.

Also ordered some 1mm exact GPU Shims

Also, I'm using really old nasty MX2 thermal paste, so ordered some thermal grizzly kryo - it could even be this old paste throwing everything right out.

Regardless of the above quick test.

GPU's maxing at 66 - when on there own
CPU maxing at 69 - when on its own

When both are on - it's worse than stock benches I did
all fans set to full-on WC and laptop.

Failing this it's going back or I will list on the market place as I am getting to the end of my tether with it!

 

Panic over.

It is related to the IHS being too high, it just came to me to validate EACH CORE. checked the cores while running both GPU's on max + CPU max.

As you can see there is a BIG difference in the core temps, showing that there must be a clear twist in the HS, I will await the smaller IHS and retest.

But 70 degrees I am quite happy with when running the whole system, it's good. especially as its on poor thermal paste too

 

Looks like it's beginning to come together! Should get even more impressive temps when the contact between the components gets better.

 

Hey bro, yeah man I am glad I checked.

I'm waiting on a few parts now.
Smaller IHS
New thermal paste
Smaller GPU shim, 0.9.

I'm thinking it might be pretty good once I bet proper alignment

 

After I got my first Clevo, I had to get a dedicated room for all the extra parts, fans, shimms, tools and whatnot.

 

I'm slowly getting there too haha.

Most of my office is full of 100s of m18x parts still

 

Nice.

However if there's a big rise in temps when all components are in use, it's more than just die contact.

Connect the water backwards and compare the cpu/gpu temps to see the temp rise through the block (could also test with the thermal probe on the exit side). They may indicate you need more rad or more flow or both.

 

Hey bro since this post I ran both again and it's the cpu die not sitting even see my screenshot peaked at 70 on processor at 4.5ghz with gpus running as well, I'm not doing any more testing until I get the new ihs and shims and paste

 

Hey bro - still waiting on the stock height IHS to arrive, question .

If i was to use LM as a bridge for the shims, will this decrease temps quite a bit vs Kryonaut - is the Mw rating a big thing when it comes to WC and the transfer of that heat?

I don't want to risk the laptop for a mere 2-3 degree gain.

I am just very cautious as it's obviously still a very expensive system.

 

It won't be night and day difference between the two. And you wouldn't need much LM to have both shims stick, remember the surface tension of LM will pull them together, even with a tiny amount.

 

Good to know thanks buddy

 

Still waiting on this copper IHS to arrive guys, should be any day.
Then i can finish the final testing and see if this is worth it.

 

Next upgrade.

I remember a very teen age me wanting one of these back in the P4 days.

 

Those are epic bro, they use to be the "go to " thing 10 + years ago.

I always wanted one too, is the maintenance on those systems ridiculous though, i thought you have to do loads to the motherboard etc??

@Mr. Fox are you still using your water chiller bro?

 

Condensation is a big issue.

 

That's only under ambient though, isn't it? if you keep above it's no probs ! =D

 

Stock IHS just arrived !! =D time to put everything together.

 

Initial results are extremely promising, more to come soon !!

 

**UPDATE* This time i was too worried about using LM on the chips, i have only used it on the IHS.

Fully water cooled + max fans + laptop cooling on too - to see a true improvement, same tests again ( see attached screenshots)

FPU + Heaven = 10 mins solid.
CPU Maximum was - 67 degree on kryonaut (57 average) vs 87 before when on LM and Bitspower IHS.
GPU's - Max 57 on kryonaut - average temps- 48 ( while benching) vs 70 before On LM

The biggest difference I the fact the whole system drops back to low 30's within around 25-30 seconds.

And the laptop remains cool no matter where you touch it.

I am going to tweak everything now to try and get a silent but decent system, and then OC the CPU to 5.1Ghz

Looking at a solid CPU Temp drops of over 20%.
GPU drops of over 20% too.

If we went full LM, I think I could shave another 3+ degrees off may be due to better transfer.

Overall few bits to do, but very happy.

This gives me the confidence to drop a 9900k in and have a silent but potent machine still.

@Papusan @Mr. Fox @Meaker@Sager @jc_denton @bennyg
@DaMafiaGamer
@Dialup David

 

You're sure the other temp sensors are correct?


Good job, bruh. +rep

 

No, Papusan that's a feature! It doubles as a toaster.

 

Thanks brother, you think I should test anything else?

I'm gonna overclock to 5.1ghz and see what temps we put out now, although I'm really after a potent system that's quite.

I'm thinking a 9900k would be worth the upgrade with these temps I reckon I could tame it

 

Hahaha exactly bro.


How funny it bugged out.


I'm going to do a full thread with the system pics, everything and more benches when I get a few more bits so it's a finished job, super happy though

 

It'd be very interesting to see how it tames the 9900k. Or don't know if would be worth holding out for an 9900KS.

 

Trying to control a unit like that accurately under varying loads? Have fun

 

With regards to air only.

This cpu destroys the stock one on air alone, it won't budge last 73.

But the gpus then come into play and sap the cooling capacity, so they shoot to around 83.

It's practical to use it on air only for 1 Gtx 1080 and cpu I would reccomend

 

I've seen loads of people using aquarium chillers and they regulate the temp automatically for you, just set desired temp and go, doesn't seem an issue at all to be honest.

 

That's not a bulky unit designed to operate down to -50c

 

If you buy a phase change cooler, chances are you will never run it at ambient temps. At least not the Prometia Mach 2

 

28core 5ghz laptop by intel

 

http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-150A.htm

something like this , way more practical than phase changing, and way more efficient too.

 

It will surely compliment the two powerbricks and all the radiators, haha