PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

PowerSpec (MC) is being rather slow about this. Then again, this is their first venture into laptops. Just keep pestering them via Customer Service emails. Since we have the IME and MC security fixes via patches and OS updates, we can survive until they get some BIOS updates up.

 

For 1080p 60Hz it will be a 30 pin eDP connector.

 

It is a LG Philips LP156WF6 (Dell 3874Y) a pretty common panel if you do a Google on it, Amazon has them for around 90 bucks.
If you are looking to upgrade should be no problem getting the specs for it

http://www.panelook.com/LP156WF6-SPK3_LG Display_15.6_LCM_overview_28147.html

https://www.hwinfo.com/ for more system details, great program

 

Does this mean that my RAM is under-clocked? Can you guys confirm what your ram speed is on the 1710?

Spoiler

 

No, it's DDR memory, so you double that value. 1197.4 x2 = 2394.8

 

Thanks for informing me about this. Btw I want to ask what's your temp during gaming? I just repasted the 2nd time yesterday, and the results don't change at all. CPU reaches up to 90s and GPU stays at 80s when I play Final Fantasy XV

 

I'm generally in the low-mid 70's on both. If you tried using a thin film of paste, you'll need to increase heatsink pressure for the CPU. It's kinda mediocre in gripping. I used ICD7 and was generous on the paste, which is thick and fills up the gap nicely.

 

I used noctua nt-h1 paste. I put around a pea-sized amount on the CPU die, and a quite thick line on the GPU. Don't know if that's enough.
In what order do you screw the heatsinks in? You do the CPU or the GPU first?

 

There should be numbers to guide you, the best way to check if it was enough is to take the coolers off and check the contact pattern left behind.

 

Anyone been getting BSOD syntp.sys fail?

 

Ok guys, what’s up. I haven’t been here since the AMD x800 days when I bought my first ‘gaming’ laptop. Long story short..I’m in the military, travel a lot but don’t need anything super portable, and want to game while deployed in my barracks/wherever I am, and I’d like to step away for 4k..because it’s a little too overrated IMO.

I just sold my gaming rig due to miners (couldn’t pass up selling my 1080 Ti for $1400). I was rocking i7-7700k, 1080 Ti, 512nvme Samsung SSD, 40 inch 4k monitor, and a few other cool things. So I’m in the market.

I’ve been REALLLLY looking at getting the 1710, but for the better part of 3 hours have been reading this thread and now I’m kind of scared. I’m traveling for military currently, and so bringing it home and testing it extensively is not really an option. How bad are these issues (deadline pixel, over heating, speaker separation) and how often are they being found.

Also looking at Razer Blade @$1599

 

@JediTreasley Dead pixels is a crap shoot from any maker. Mine was just fine. The TIM they use is generic so expect a repaste due after 4 months. Speakers are ok, but still laptop speakers. I prefer to use headphones, IEMs, or a portable Bluetooth speaker, like the BEM Cube.

 

So would you recommend this safely above say - spending $400 less and getting a gtx 1060 dell, or spending $100 more and getting a Razer Blade, or another option? The heat situation also worries me a tad. But it’s been so long since I’ve actually games on a notebook that I don’t really know what to expect or ask for. I gamed on a 960m when I was in Korea, and a 1050 Ti with my wife’s rather surprisingly nice Dell Gaming 7000.

 

Also just talked to Micro Center Tech support and they said there was a revision on the 1710s mid Feb this year to address heating issues. Has anyone bought there’s since then and experienced better temps?

 

Maybe they changed their pasting solution? If they changed the fans/heatsinks to something better, I am going to be so jealous.

 

Hi all
my vortex 3 (p170em) died last week, and I was on the market for a new laptop.
Was visiting new jersey and picked up an opened box 1710 for $1150 all in, an offer I couldn't pass up. Same spec in Europe is close to 2500 euros!

so far, its been ace.
What I've done:
bios to turn on discrete gpu, 75hz now
power management to limit cpu to 90%
capped my fps to 100 using rtss to reduce my gpu usage

and so far playing; rust, cs go, dota2, fortnite, pubg. all on very high and hitting 75c gpu and 69c Cpu after 4 hour sessions

if I max out the fans, its cools an extra 7c on each. So headphones is a must.

I just ordered thermal grizzly Kryonaut, so will be doing a repaste this coming weekend, and will see how it effects the temps.

I will be doing my best to keep this lappy alive. if i've missed any tweaks, let me know

 

You can max cpu usage, and just undervolt it instead.

 

Anybody have any issues getting the TB3 (USB-C) port to work with display adapters (i.e. USB-C to HDMI)? Trying to run a triple monitor display setup with my 1710, but two of my monitors are HDMI only, so I need the USB-C > HDMI adapter to be able to use both.

 

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...rd_wg=DVPLz&psc=1&refRID=7A708MT3MFHN66F0Z2VT

Like one of these?

 

Nope, one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCT9P71/ref=twister_B06ZY5GQYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

I was wondering why you were using USB-C when you have 2 perfectly fine mDP ports, but oh well.

1) You running in MSHYBRID or DISCRETE mode?
2) Have you updated the TB3 driver software? Here's 17.3.73.6 in case you haven't

https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArwXzixQ74JbgbN9rO7BvHiJv1qr0Q

 

Running in DISCRETE to enable oc'ing the display to 100hz.
Have not updated the TB3 driver (looked everywhere for it, but could not find it, thanks for the link!).

I am using the USB-C adapter because I don't have a miniDP to HDMI adapter handy (though I may buy one in the future).

 

@ chastity ahh ok cool, ill try undervolting next. Haven't read much info about it, hence i went for the simple route.

@MrD1sturbed I have nothing to check the display ports with, goodluck

 

Hey guys had a quick question. I'm trying to undervolt using IntelTuning but whenever i apply the undervolt it doesn't safe. It only lets me to test and benchmark it any ideas? Also my GPU is 50-60 degrees idle is this normal?

 

How are you only hitting 69 c GPU gaming Mine is 60 idle right now

 

I just did a stress test using aida64, now the CPU reached 90°C, compared to just 70 - 75°C before and after the 1st repaste (stock paste and 1st repaste). Probably gonna have to take it apart again :/

 

I would, check the application, getting it right can take a bit of practice.

 

My 1710 idle GPU is 40C. (Fans on Auto) Above is game load vsync off. At fixed 60fps I'm about 69C. I sense a repaste in your future.

 

Will it help? I'm not comfortable opening up my computer. Any suggestions for laptops with no overheating issues?

 

@lethalasian i did a bit of tweaking as u can see on my previous post, but i left out that im also on a laptop cooler, zalman nc11. Any cooler would greatly help the airflow under the laptop.

as for suggestions, clevo chassis were suppose to be the best in terms of airflow and cooling design, which is why a few companies; msi, powerspec, pc specialist, xmg, schneker, all rebrand them because they are good.

looks like this model of pa71, went a bit too ambitious, sticking in powerful stuff in a small unit.
dont be discouraged from clevo models. i would still choose them again.
i would go for a thicker laptop, with beefier cooling.

 

Update: Price has gone up to $1399 again since the $100 drop in January.

P/s: now I feel a bit better since I got it for that price back in November
Congrats to those who were able to get the steal!

 

i just opened this baby up to repaste it

and bloody hell, that was nerve racking.
i advise anyone who doesnt have at least a basic knowledge of puzzles, dont open it.

notes along the way.
i hate how you have to remove the keyboard to access a screw underneath to open the bottom shell.
the keyboard takes some preying open, but be careful there are ribbons under it.
i also hate that the bottom shell takes a huge amount of pressure to open the first tab. but it handles it. if one corner doesnt give way, try the next corner and use guitar picks to hold the previous one open. once one gives way, the whole shell comes off.
when removing the heat sink. you have to remove the fan cables. no way around it.
however, the LCD ribbon, for me, was stuck, and i could not for the life of me remove it. so i had to play around the ribbon cable. and elevated the heat sink once it was removed.
the thermal paste job was terrible. thick solid crap, overflowing onto the die. they think more is better, not in this case.
cleaned and pasted with Kryonaut.
so far, idle temps has dropped 5c all round, and gaming temps (max fans) drops 7c from gpu. and 5c from cpu.
not the biggest change i like to see, but every little helps! (maybe theres a burn in period, i hope temps reduce a bit more)

good luck powerspecers

 

I used Conductonaut, the liquid metal TIM and that combined with undervolting dropped my temps by about 20c, it may be worth doing, just gotta be careful. And yes, opening the bottom was indeed nerve racking, the keyboard took immense force to pop free for me.

 

@gt90 wow! thats a huge drop. Might have to do the same.
Haven't read much about undervolting. Hopfully not too hard to grasp
I think i'll wait a few months before opening it up again. Gives me time to save up for a another nvme, and ssd, and ill just do everything at once.

how did you remove the lcd ribbon btw? it has this rectangular loop of plastic film on top of the slot. No idea what i had to do with it.

 

The two together (undervolt and a GOOD LM application) can help a lot yes.

 

Wish I had the confidence to use some liquid metal on this. Might just have to suck it up and give it a go.

Are there any specific parts that need to be covered with nail polish or high temp adhesive if LM is used on these? Are both the CPU and GPU ok to use it on?

I thought that direct die to heatsink with liquid metal was a no go, and it needed the IHS in between.

 

It won't "eat" the copper like it does with aluminum. But it'll form a copper-gallium alloy. This means after a while, if you take apart the heatsink, you'll see a grayish color that can't be cleaned.
Source

 

For those opening the case, the keyboard does NOT need to be pried off. Simply drive your screw driver up the hole marked by the keyboard logo AND the icon showing the kb popping up. The keyboard will pop right up.

 

Anyone else experiencing non-bluescreen hangs?

I get these about once or twice a month now... They happen pretty much out of the blue, there is no stress nor heat when they happen - I first notice things aren't clickable, and about 5 seconds later, the mouse cursor can't be moved anymore, and then a complete hang (numlock/capslock keys don't even light up the LEDs). After force-booting the event log is empty, no telltale signs or hints.

I'm not sure how to tackle this one. I ran memtest for many hours, and everything seems to be in order. I removed any undervolts on the CPU to rule it out, but it still happens. Help?

 

Just do a fresh reinstall of Windows to see if any problems still persist. If it does, then consider replacing for warranty.
My 1710 used to have a weird performance locking issue, which was the GPU locking at 1400Mhz and wouldn't boost higher. If you search this thread, you'll find my post saying a clean Windows reinstall solved it

 

dont click on that source link on mobile, for me it changed to a pop up and then charged me premium rate text message on my phone. £4.50 fuking scammers. Be advised.

 

also
does anyone have any tips on how to remove this cable?

 

Does anybody know of a reasonably priced backpack that fits the 1710? Don’t want to order on amazon and not have the thing fit.

 

eBags Professional Slim. You can find discounts for eBags all over the web.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Just wanted to clear up some confusion on the 1510, or maybe I was the only one that was confused.

I'd read that the 2 M.2 SSD slots could be configured as either:

1) NVME
2) NONE

or

1) SATA
2) SATA

Maybe I was misunderstanding, but I just wanted to point out for anyone else who might have been confused, I have

1) NVME
2) SATA

working just fine.

Again, maybe I was just misreading what people were saying, but I'd somehow gotten it in my head that the 2nd M.2 slot became unavailable if the 1st one was populated with an NVME drive like the one it ships with.

 

When I was putting it back together, I took a look at all the connectors to make sure everything was properly secured. Then I went around all the visible screws to make sure the were properly tightened, because when I was taking the bottom panel off, a couple of those screws were barely snug and it got me to wondering.

Anyway, all four of the CPU heatsink screws were less than tight. I'd say each of them needed 1/8 to 1/4 turn to be truly snugged up. And I do mean just snug, not bear-down-on-it-and-maybe-strip-the-screws tight. Don't really know how to describe it, other than to say that you just know it when you feel it.

Put it all back together and ran a few minutes of Heaven to get it warmed up, then turned the fans to max and ran Firestrike. The CPU boosted to 3.6Ghz and held steady and hit a max temp of 66C. The GPU hit a max of 54C. That's with the back end of the machine slightly propped up in a room that's 68F/20C (I'm sitting by my Nest thermostat). Granted, this is with the fans blazing at 100% and it was only one run through the benchmark, but I think I got pretty lucky with the thermals on this machine.

Also, I'm running -0.125 on the CPU (haven't tested anything beyond that) and a voltage curve on the GPU that sees it boosting up to around 2Ghz pretty regularly. I haven't really pushed the limits on either at this point, although I might just for fun.

Just sitting here typing on this webpage with the fans set to auto and basically silent it's idling at 42-44C on the CPU and low 30s on the GPU.

 

I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere, but searching through 75 pages is a PITA. How do you get the your undervolt to stay persistent on reboot? I used XTU to enable a -0.120 undervolt, and I am happy with the results. But every time I reboot it goes back to stock. Any help would be appreciated.

 

In XTU you need to save to a profile, and load profile on OS startup.

 

How come? That's the link to a thread on this forum. Here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-compatibility-with-copper-heat-sinks.800890/
Probably because of the ads they put in this forum I guess

 

my idle temps are the same, but when I play OW or Deus Ex MD, it shoots up to 90 on the CPU, and 80-87 for GPU. Also, when I do -0.125 undervolt, temps are better, but it won't stable. It'll crash randomly when gaming