PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

@Tuan Hoang yeah i saw, it looked like the normal forum site, but yeah, must be dodgy ad integration.

I've also undervolted my cpu using the intel utility. i have it at -0.120 running stable.
now my gaming temps, playing Subnautica on high, are cpu 75c gpu 69c 90fps max fans

 

I play OW on ultra, without undervolting, temp for CPU is around 90, GPU around 80. Get around 120-130 fps. When undervolted, the CPU got a bit cooler, but still in its 80s. However it'll just crash and not really stable.
Probably will need a 3rd repaste attempt. (1st repaste temps were like stock, temps I said above are currently 2nd repaste, which is worse )

 

No, you need to raise the voltage a bit. I started to also be unstable at -.125v, so I raised to -.115v and now perfectly stable. Temps are the same.

 

I did. Even raised it to -.100V and still crash. Probably got a potato silicon

 

If you are going to repaste again, try a different paste. Get some Gelid or ICD7, these thick TIMs work well on notebook heatsinks with suboptimal contact.

 

What's the CPU load actual voltage value?

 

Just got the Grizzly Kryonaut in the mail, gonna take it apart to repaste right now.

Edit: what method do you use? Do I need to spread it out or just a dot?

Here, take a look

 

Less than a volt for 3.4GHz is not too bad IIRC.

 

I was using the Clevo Control Center fan speed offset at 20% to help manage temps.
After updating the graphics driver to 391.24 ccc gpu overclocking no longer works, it just hangs on save.
Already tried a clean install of the driver and different versions of ccc.
Any ideas?

 

Me personally have been experiencing some weird issues with CCC version 5.0001.1. 70. I installed it fresh after I'd just clean installed Win 10 build 1703 (Creators Update). And it didn't show up the GPU OC tool. Then after some Windows updates (not a big update, still running on the same 1703 build) it suddenly showed up. Just recently I've updated Nvidia driver (I checked "Perform clean install") and now it disappeared, again.
Sometimes if you wake up from sleep, you'll see it shows up, but when you click on it nothing happens.
I don't mind that much, since I use Msi after burner to OC

 

Is this enough/the right way for Grizzly Kryonaut?

 

It will work but you have used about twice as much as normal.

 

Are you referring to the CPU or GPU? How should I fix it the next time?

 

GPU, use thinner lines. The CPU line could be longer and thinner too just to get that 100% perfect fit.

 

That is way to much on both.
All thermal paste is supposed to do is fill in the micro gaps, I always use the single dot method. In your case when you tighten it down all that stuff is going to squeeze out and probably get all over the micro resistors, if it is liquid metal probably short out your chips.
I would never use that stuff it has corrosive quality.
In this case more is not better.
You should try and determine if your heat sink surfaces are flat.
If you removed thermal pads you should replace with new.
Lower your voltage on the cpu to whatever works and if needed do so on your gpu. Mine rarely hits the 80's it is rated for 90c so that is fine, a laptop will always run bit hotter as you know.
Get a good laptop cooler it will help keep the system cool overall.

 

Thanks for the advice. No, this is non-conductive paste. If it were liquid metal I'd put nail polish or tape to insulate. Just like you said, I don't want the gallium to bond with the copper making the permanent alloy on the heat sink.
I have a few questions:
1. How do you know if the heat sink has a flat surface?
2. Have you repasted yet? If so, what paste did you use?
3. How much do you undervolt? I did -0.110v and it still crashed.
4. You said yours rarely hits the 80's, so what game do you play? I play OW, Deus Ex MD and the CPU hits 80s spiking up to 90s, GPU is in its 80s.

And yes, I've put some rubber feet to raise the laptop up for better ventilation

 

A regular heat sink could be checked with very fine sandpaper and a very flat surface, like a glass table etc.
I suppose it could be done with a laptop cooler as well but might be better with a good quality fine sharpening stone, on mine there is a pipe joining to cpu and gpu so if could be tricky.
I have seen some really poorly milled heat sinks and when I have a cooling problem that is something I always check.

No I have not re-pasted mine I do not intend to If I can at all avoid it, besides I am under warranty if there is a problem I am sure I can have them do it so id something goes wrong it's on them.

I am currently running cpu at minus .100v and it has proven very stable even when in turbo boost and speed shift enabled.

Games I have run are all on Ultra those so far are Witcher 3, Need for Speed Payback, Hitman, AC Syndicate is probably the most cpu intensive of all of them. I actually went so far as to disable turbo boost it was thermal throttling before under volting, everything ran fine with it disabled.

 

I forgot to add on a recent desktop rebuild I use ARCTIC ORACO-MX40001-BL MX-4 very good stuff.
That stuff is rated for 8 years if done right

 

Arctic MX-4 is decent but does tend to pump in mobile systems.

 

Anyone know the screw size on the cpu screws? One of mine started to get stripped out, put it back in but not very tight so I can easily replace it.

 

It's working great on the desktop system, but then again the original job did not look to be done that well by the looks of it.
As far as it's viscosity it is a bit thinner than the arctic silver for sure but I use very little of it as one should have to so I don't imagine a bit of "pumping" will be much of a problem since that is probably due to excess paste anyway.
I have seen some paste jobs that have just been ridiculously over done lol
wonder how many cpu's and gpu's have gotten fried that way especially with that liquid metal

 

You sure it is the screw and not the mounting plate stripped out? Either way it is a real problem to get screws like that you may have to get the whole mount and sink which again is a real problem since not that common.
Might have to order if you can from Clevo.
There are probably other ways to fix it like tapping to another size if you can get a tap a screws to match

 

Sorry should have clarified, the threads are not stripped. Just the head of the screw. A small flathead will take it out no problem, since the Philips or whatever head it is, is slightly bored out

What's a better paste than mx4 aside from liquid metal? They all seem pretty similar in the reviews i see.

 

Arctic Silver is a real good paste have used on many builds, do once and that's it won't get any better.
I think a lot of people have a misconception about what a paste will do and companies throw all sorts of numbers out there so I tend to stick with what I know works and doubt any other stuff will work much better.
System cooling really comes down to the heat sink if the 7700hq were in desktop box I would probably have a huge Evo cooler on and it would be running cool as a cucumber.
Bottom line laptops will always run hot for obvious reasons, as long as the system stays from thermal throttling I will be happy.
So I would say any quality paste will be good enough.
Personally I will avoid liquid metal.
I don't know what they used on the 1510 but it seems to work pretty good so I am not going to mess with it especially while under warranty.

As for the screw it will still be real hard to find one to match maybe if you can find a foxconn laptop sink or parts on ebay

 

Thanks for the reply, I just need to find the thread pitch of the screw and than it'll be easy. Guessing it's metric, i can see if my comb gauge will go small enough to identify thread pitch.

 

They make files thin enough so you could cut a slot or two. The metal is probably soft enough so it wouldn't be much problem.
I would just thread it in and cut that way.
Guitar nut files or similar would probably work

 

If I open this bad boy up and repaste, there's really no way for them to tell, is there? Microcenter wouldn't check anyway, but could the manufacturer tell?

 

Yes - I just got the BSOD today with this exact error. Oddly enough, my USB mouse also started moving very slow - even when I bump the mouse speed all the way up to the fastest. Both of these occured after I did the most recent round of MS updates for Windows 10. Would love any thoughts/suggestions on how to correct this?

 

Try screwing in normal case screw. If it fits, it's most likely M3x0.5 thread.

 

The sink screws are JIS (Japanese industry standard) standard by the looks of it. If you use a regular Philips tip it will chew or distort the head a bit making it easy to tell has been worked.
Pretty sure case screws are the same.
Have no idea of the paste they use but I am sure it is not toothpaste so as long as you don't use liquid metal you should be okay.

 

Try uninstalling the touch pad drivers completely using device manager windows will load the default ones that actually work properly, don't worry either way it will work again.
I have not had the problem myself but I have noticed there is something buggy about the synaptic's pad driver whenever I have updated the interface disappears from mouse properties and the task bar notification disappears as well.
Windows still has a lot of compatibility issues so it could be something else you recently installed as well.

 

This didn't help in my case. Here's what I did.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...crashes-a-few-questions.813685/#post-10681582

Keep in mind, that linked drivers are for P650/P670.

 

Thanks, might order a laptop screw kit off Amazon. Bunch of little metric screws, hopefully one will fit. Be nice if someone knows the exact size though.

 

CCC is a real touchy program for sure if it weren't for the need to control the keyboard lights would get rid of it, hopefully I can find an alternative.
Also switching between mshybrid and discrete can be a problem on the initial boot since the nvidia gpu does not activate you have to log out and log back in and the nividia control panel and gpu will be recognized.
I noticed that when I started a game one time after switching modes it was using the Intel integrated graphics and everything was working extremely slow as would be expected.
Kind of sounds like the issue you had.
If you switch modes just go into bios at boot using the f2 key and after boot make sure the gpu is recognized if not just log out or reboot again.
Also if a program you use does not automatically use the gpu you can force it to in the nvidia control panel

 

Do you mind providing a link? not sure if this one is correct: http://www.clevo.com/en/e-services/download/ftpOut.asp?Lmodel=N85xHKx/HJx&ltype=9&submit=+GO+

 

Hi All,

After about 20 hours of fiddling i finally have been able to manage my cpu temps with everyone help. I was particularly have problems with games such as PUBG and RE7 (high 80s low 90s CPU temp in Celsius). The solution cane down to the following

• Under-volting using Intel Extreme Tuning utility for cpu and gpu by .125v (seems stable)
  
• Gync is enabled in bios
• Keeping fan maxed during game play through CC
• In nvidia control center, for those specific games, changing v sync to fast or on (will cap fps at 60 for on). I believe for those who desire higher fps with gsync you can use the variable setting

By doing the above I can keep my temp range in the low 70s with spikes up to about 80 (no re-paste)

 

V-sync will lower GPU load, it will also introduce input lag, if you are not sensitive to that then it's a good way of not wasting power if you don't need it.

 

Seems to be tolerable so far. only other option is to keep vsync off and use an external software to limit the fps to keep these temps down i think.

 

Use MSI Afterburner with RTSS so you can track your temp while gaming and limit FPS (in RTSS). Also you can try undervolting your GPU.

 

It would still introduce input lag. Any kind of limiter will need to sync the frames properly.

 

Limiting FPS and syncing frames with refresh rate are two separate things. Fallout 4 has massive lag when it runs with v-sync, but almost no lag when it's limited with RTSS.

 

Hey guys. Since we're on this topic, what is everyone's opinion of using Nvidia's frame limiter when using whisper mode? I've used it to great effect by disregarding all the recommended settings in GFE and manually setting the frame limit in the Nvidia control panel. RTSS works as well, but this way you have one less program running in the background. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The default limit is 30 FPS. Changing it for every game to 60 or so feels like a pain in the ass. Between GFE and RTSS I choose RTSS. Plus it's required for OSD for MSI Afterburner.

 

I also use rtts, i overclocked the screen to 100hz, so i use rtss to lock the frames at 100 also. or should i lock it for more frames?

has anyone used the msi afterburner to overclock the gpu? the top 3 sliders are grayed out for me, i only have coreclock and memory clock slider available. anyone can give tips on how to use them?

 

I lock FPS to 60 on 75/90 Hz monitor. Stable 60 is going to feel smoother than 100 that drops to 60. The more and the more stable your FPS are, the better your experience will be. I just don't want to stress my graphics that much.
As to MSI Afterburner, just follow any (video)guide available. You can also undervolt it for better temps.

 

i thought youre suppose to lock the fps to the refresh rate?
ive been swapping between 75hz and 100hz, and i dont see that big of a difference. so im going to keep it at 75hz, and lock the fps at 75

sometimes gaming, its hangs for a split second. fps goes down by half, and then back up again. no idea why. thought if i overclock the gpu it would give it more juice to not hang.

 

As I've said, stabe lower FPS is better than higher with drops. Plus the system works cooler/quieter. It's really game related, for competetive games (like CS:GO, Overwatch or so) more FPS nad higher refresh rate would be better. For others - do as you please. I prefer putting lower stress on processors.

Is your screen getting a little bit darker when OCd to 100 Hz when compared to 75? Like really, really little.

The game might be loading textures. Is it some new, high requirements game?

 

Ok, if you leave tearing in there then yes, though you will still get more input lag due to fewer frames the hit is a lot smaller.

 

Hey guys, I thought I'd share my recent purchase.

I got a (LESHP Laptop Cooling Fan) This little guy puts out some serious air current and most importantly, where it matters and that's to the back of the 1710 single open vent. I've been using a laptop cooling pad but was looking for a more portable solution and the results have been fairly meh for long gaming sessions with a cooling pad. I've seen my temps get as high as 92c ultra (cpu undervolted -.125) on particular titles, but most games 80c.

As soon as I got this, I decided to run Unigine Heaven benchmark tool with ultra everything plus wireframe and intel XTU stress test at the same time for an hour. I've ran it like this when I first got this laptop and even after undervolting I saw temps jump to 97c.

With this little guy, temps didn't exceed 83c for the hour and a half. This is without re-pasting and I don't know whether it will improve it at all (I really don't trust myself trying this). My temps didn't exceed 74c playing my World of Tanks, which will normally peek to 83c after playing a couple hours. Idle/web browsing temps are 38c-42c (ambient room temp 74c)

Anyway, I thought I would share. Powerful little fan this is and it does a great job propping up the laptop, while fitting easily in my laptop bag.

Spoiler

 

How does the laptop feel sitting on this? Is it stable? From the pics on Amazon it looks like it would be very unstable to have a laptop sitting on it, especially the size of the 1710.