PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

Do you have any instructions for this? I'm looking to do this on my P650HS-G.

 

You know what, I never set it so probably not. I will make sure throttlestop is set that way. Is there a way to set it so everything you do is as administrator?

 

With Windows 10 it can make all the difference whether a program runs correctly or not, and with some games if the saves work
afaik there is no way to set every installer to run as admin, but that is not saying there is no way
So right click installer and choose install as administrator and usually that sets the program to also run as admin

I run XTU for the voltage offset and usually have no problem with it loading the settings automatically, and also have ThrottleStop running on startup to enable SpeedStep which is the only way I know of to enable it.

 

anyone else done a 3dmark Firestike test on their machine?
wondering if there would be room to improve

https://imgur.com/rK3wvd7

 

@nealios Compare the numbers you get on the 3dmark site I would expect machines with similar specs. I don't know if there is a way to filter out results by laptops or machines with similar specs since there are so many possibilities.
Some crazy high numbers on that site no way any laptop would be able to get near them.

I think for what it is my 1510 does very well but as it is I would not try and overclock unless I could modify the cooling somehow

 

I'll get a screen cap of what Windows pops open when I load a game. As for Office, I'm able to use Office 2016 but it's with limited ability. I just want to make sure I can bring it back on my computer, if I need to. Especially if Win 10 is stupid and won't let me install Office 2013...which I feel like it's starting to be a hassle just to get it installed...

I forgot to mention that I've also been having issues with getting a BSOD randomly or after gaming for a while...it seems to have started after I downloaded the last two NVIDIA driver updates. (I always perform a clean install when installing the new NVIDIA drivers; however, I read in another forum that one should always ONLY get their NVIDIA drivers from their OEM. Does that really matter much?) The error I received last night was for SynTP.sys and said Driver IRQL Not Less Or Equal.

 

This is what I get. I think it's Windows notification related. But I have O&OShutUp10...so I'm not sure if there's something I don't have disabled. I hadn't gotten this before until Windows updated and I updated to NVIDIA 398.11...and I'm not running 398.36

On the plus side, I haven't (as of yet) been randomly getting a black screen when loading Windows or opening lid from hibernation. (I never did the hot fix for it...just updated to the next released driver.)

 

I used to get the same blue screen error code
Lowered undervolt and it went away
From -120mv to -110mv

 

Cool cool
Yeah maybe you're right, I'm already struggling to cool as it is. ill let it be, and just enjoy it

 

Are you running GEFORCE experience? when I install nvidia driver I always deselect it. Speaking of graphics drivers other than the drivers updated by windows they are the ones from the initial install, I can say for the most part all those nvidia driver updates are pointless and can actually end up messing up your system performance.

Since my system is running great and as good as it ever will be I see no point in trying to improve it by driver updates since I know they more than likely wont help anything at all. The exception are the ones involving security updates

And yes as nealios stated increase your core voltage offset I have mine set at -.100 runs good runs cool, and I have no blue screens. I did have some occasionally awhile back but may have been caused by an update.

 

Only issue with that fix is I've gotten it twice before I undervolted
It happens too infrequently for me to test the root cause, maybe there's a sudden spike in power being drawn that causes it, because 99.9% of the time this thing is stable.

 

The way I am looking at it is when the next gen graphics chips come out (maybe this year) and I am done paying for the PowerSpec I have now I will sell this one and get a next gen, I don't know if they are going to make anymore Clevo PowerSpecs though so may be another brand.
Or maybe I will find a purpose for the PS and keep it lol, I like to have my options and is why I baby the PS

 

OK, temps went back up to 80 average so I think the undervolts were not the issue. Last night I thought, what if it’s the battery charging? Batteries get hot when they charge. It makes sense it would heat everything else up. I usually keep my system unplugged when not in use. I tested my theory yesterday by keeping it plugged in all day and my temps were down by 10c. I was trying to preserve battery life, but screw it, I’d rather have better temps. I’ll keep testing it the rest of the week to make sure that was the cause.

 

That does make sense would be easy enough to test using a Multi-meter with temp probe you would have to crack the case and tape the probe tip to it, if there is a temp sensor on the bat you cant access it directly.
You can get meters for under $30
Mine is usually always plugged in so it is just trickle charges the battery to full charge and probably does not generate much heat.

I would guess that level that it charges to is 100% but it is a fact if you charge the battery at less than that like say 80% you will prolong it's life significantly, with phones there are apps that tell you when to unplug.
So even though you are trying to prolong it might not be helping at all

 

The heat would be a big factor too, it's better to charge when the rest of the system is cool.

 

@nealios I keep forgetting to reload my undervolt profile on Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility. Do you use that? If so, how do you get the profile to always load on it's own? I have it set to -.120V

@cannonfodder Yeah, I'm running GEFORCE experience. I always click to do a clean install when a new driver comes out. However...maybe, I should revert back to 398.10?

I discovered that my touch pad had turned back on, so I turned it off again. I use a wireless mouse, so it's not an issue. Also, another thread suggested to disable Windows broadcast. Since doing both of these things, I haven't had the error...yet. I'll try to remember to always undervolt, too.

I guess I'll keep a close eye on it. If it happens again, I'll either try to roll back to the older driver or try this registry fix: http://forum.notebookreview.com/goto/post?id=10235938#post-10235938

 

Temps came back up again to the 80s so that wasn’t it. Then today I noticed something I forgot was even there. GeForce experience in game overlay. I disabled it and temps dropped immediately. Going to test it a few days to make sure. But I’ll feel pretty dumb if that was it all along.

 

It does use some resources to help cache for replay capture and the like.

 

@Axe79 I would say that is a pretty good indicator you found a cause of the problem but may be other things going on as well like the battery, who would expect geforce experience to effect performance?

I mentioned it to Chowda289 since he was getting popups during game play. I never found it very useful so rarely use it.

 

ETU starts as a service and if you save the under-volt profile it should load at boot time. As mentioned before you should install and run it as Admin.
I always choose custom install when doing a driver update so I uncheck Geforce experience along with all the 3D stuff I rarely use Geforce experience but I seem to remember having popups that stopped after uninstalling it, you can also do a clean install that way.
Maybe I will give updating a try after backing up my system I am still running 391.01 and everything runs great so kind of pointless.

I did note something new (fairly new) on the nVidia site warning people to set a restore point before doing a driver update. To me that says they are aware a lot of people are having update issues, clean install or not.

As I posted previously I did not uninstall CCC I just stopped it from starting boot time. CCC has a main service called "Powerbios" which still runs at boot even though you stopped Control Center from running. The keyboard still works this way but if you need to customize the colors etc. you have to run the keyboard program, or you could just set that to start with windows.

The headphones also work perfectly. CCC is a big hit on startup performance and to tell the truth is kind of buggy so I basically don't bother with it since any settings I need to change I can do manually.

Thanks for the link will check it out

 

@Chowda289
Like cannon said above regarding the Intel utility, I used it at first, installed as admin then played with the undervolt and saved the profile. Once it was saved it booted it self up, never had to touch it again.
But now I've discovered throttle stop, and speed shift enabling. I now use throttle stop.
Saved my undervolt with the SS enabled, then made a new task in event viewer program. And it is a set and forget. Working great so far.

As for clevo control centre, I set my keyboard to a fixed colour and uninstalled it, not bothered with those features, and CCC doesn't throttle my GPU anymore.

Haven't had a problem with geforce experience, I've so far running update
391.36 and not problems.
But when I started to play Fortnite , whenever I got a kill or died a popup would come stating the replay was saved. And gave me massive lag spikes as well as Fram drops with spike in temps. So I uninstalled it. And now I'll just leave it.

 

You can go in and disable certain options like that.

 

Was planning to reinstall CCC and noticed a newish version on Clevo's site (for the 1510) posted 2018/5/29 so I'll give that a try. Last time it only screwed up some minor things.

Edit: re-installation went smoothly, from what I can tell they added a new version of Flexiaccess and nothing else new is noticeable

 

Tried repasting again (followed thread recommendations), but temps haven't changed ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Still going into the high 90s in games like GTA V. Running around 80-85C in idle game situations. No warranty

Throttlestop, cooler, max fan, no dust/other obstructions, only game running, room temp 70, and some lowered settings (still ultra/highest for most though), vsync, discrete, idle 43C

Earlier Prime 95 was 87-91 CPU and MSI Kombuster was 77 GPU and 83 GPU. Malwarebytes isn't finding anything either.

Would pictures of the laptop's interior help? :V I wouldn't know if something is really off. Here are some images of Throttlestop in case something is wrong there. I've only undervolted in "CPU Core". https://imgur.com/a/XoMcnLb
https://imgur.com/a/5p8q4JL

If I just have to settle for lower setting so be it, but I'd like to use the laptop to its potential :I

 

Update on my1510. After four days temps are still looking great. During an intense 3 hour BF1 session yesterday, CPU temps maxed out at 73. Average was 68. GPU was even better sitting in the mid 50s.

I tested it while charging the battery and it added about 5 degrees on average, which isn’t too bad.

So in conclusion(I hope!!), I lowered my temps 10 degrees by disabling GeForce in game overlay and playing on a fully charged laptop.

Hope this helps someone else.

 

What brand of paste you use? I personally think really thick paste is not suitable for the heat sink since you cannot really put to much pressure on it and are likely to get bubbles, plausible anyway.
The whole idea of paste is to go with as little as you can just enough to fill the small gaps and pores in the sink to the CPU GPU surface for maximum heat transfer.
So it may be as simple as a bad paste job or perhaps one of your fans is not working proper

 

kryonaut. One of the two smaller fans feels like it may not be pushing out as much air, but I'm not really sure. Together they feel stronger than the larger fan

 

Just to bust a couple of myths here:

Using ICD7 as an example, this thick paste does not remain so dense when it warms, so when first applied it will allow itself to spread and mold to the surfaces. If you ever warmed it in the tube before applying, you would note it gets much easier to spread, but it cools very quickly.

Also, the thickness of the paste MAY be detrimental to performance. Some pastes do not suffer thermal transfer reduction from this. AS5 is notorious for having this issue. ICD7 does not.

 

So I tried to repaste today. Got a new screwdriver set and used a Philips head #1 but I just can't seem to open the bottom two screws of the CPU heatsink,no matter how hard I push; they just don't move.I have attached a picture, the bottom two screws are a little bit stripped I suppose.

Can any one give me a link of which screwdriver they used to open their 1510's heatsink?
Thanks

 

I don't think it's a myth most people do not apply paste correctly regardless of the type and that some misunderstand more in this case is usually not better since there is no better heat transfer than metal to metal or metal to silicon with no gaps

 

It looks like the screw heads are stripped out or close to it. If you have a small set of drivers you could try a flat one. I do that all the time on stripped screw heads, sometimes it works sometimes not

 

Agreed on this. Good advice. Sometimes, tiny slotted drivers work better. I've never stripped a phillips screw using a slotted driver. The only downfall is that it's very easy to break off the head of the screwdriver since you are putting so much pressure on the corners of the bit rather than even pressure all the way across like you would on a slotted screw . I've done this a few times when the screws are incredibly tight.

Go for it!

 

What worked for me was placing a rubber band on top of the screw for added grip.
I had a bunch of different sizes, worked after trialing a few.

 

Alright! I tried placing a rubber band and also using a flat-head screwdriver. None of them worked

I couldn't find slotted screwdrivers online as well.

I don't know what to do now.

 

A good electronics repair shop should be able to help.

 

There are dozens of precision screw driver sets on Amazon. The problem is if you manage to get them out you may not be able to tighten them down enough since the heads a stripped out.

You really should bring it to some place like MicroCenter or the as a last resort the Geeks (cant believe I just recommended them lol) or other place like that that may have screws that will work with the sink.
They may have to drill them out or cut a slot with a Dremel or maybe heat them up if you try yourself you could really wreak it

 

@tekwarp What area you live in?

 

I bought the 1510 when I was in USA. Now I've been transferred to India, so I live there currently.

 

Any good hardware stores perhaps that could do the delicate work of recutting the screw?

 

ended up taking the Dremel to the bottom of the chassis of the 1510 to open up some of the terrible fan grills directly over the cpu and gpu fans. minimal difference if any.

not sure if it's gotten worse as time has gone on, but the air flow and the fan response in these (the 1510 at least) is trash. even with throttlestop, mx-4 repaste, cooling pad, opened up fan ports, and a room that's at 65 degrees F, the damn fans kick in almost constantly no matter what is or isn't happening.

not sure if kryonaut would make any difference, or if risking a liquid metal repaste is worth it. i wonder if any bios updates would do anything with the fan curve settings at all? that might be just wishful thinking, but christ are these things annoying

 

also, why is this site not HTTPS compliant yet?

 

In Clevo Control Center under program there is a Custom fan control field, did you try that?
You can set fan speeds based on temps

 

It's frustrating how the same cooling techniques can be applied to two machines, yet achieve different results.

I applied many of the techniques you described above (dremel on bottom plate, cooling pad, undervolted, repaste) to my machine and was able to get my temps down to a reasonable level. I'm talking max temps in the upper 80's on the CPU.
Despite this, I still ended up trying LM to try to get them down as far as possible. The liquid metal was the catalyst that helped me achieve the results I was looking for. The CPU won't go over 80 degrees anymore. I highly recommend it for your CPU.

As for the fans coming on frequently, I think it's just poor design on the part of Clevo. I've had the same problem where my fans ramp up to a high speed and I'm not even doing anything on the machine other than browsing a website. Even after I applied the LM this has happened a number of times. Nothing I've tried has seem to have any effect.

I don't see any temps listed anywhere in your post. Are they at least reasonable, even though your fans seem to come on unnecessarily?

 

It is probably some background process running you can check what services and programs are starting using "system configuration" and choose "hide all microsoft services" although it can be a windows service causing the cpu to run. You can keep an eye on that using task manager while doing other things. On my system I have disable CCenter from starting but not for noise reasons, I almost never hear my fans unless gaming when they can hit max rpm's or on a cold boot.
My hearing is not all that sensitive and I always have some background noise going so I really don't notice the fans when they ramp up just tooling around.
The fans do not (or should not) come on unnecassarily there is reason why they are since they are controlled by sensors in the CPU it's self so it would not really be an issue with Clevo if it were a lot more people would be complaining about it.

The temp limit on the 7700HQ is 100c and I belive it will only start to throttle (hit PROCHOT} it's self around 98c you can check if that is hit in throttlestop.
Another thing you did not bring up is if you are in "discrete mode or mshybrid" if you are in discrete you will be generating more heat since you are using the 1070 gpu all the time which will cause the heat sink to get saturated with heat quicker causing the the cpu to run hotter.
I am running stock paste and while intense gaming my system rarely goes above 80c

 

I followed the guide on tonymacx86. It’s easy for beginners. But then later I found out after reading insanelymac was that using tonymac’s tool can be troublesome when it comes to troubleshooting, as you might not aware of what the tool did, what it installed...

 

Been playing around with overclocking the 1070, and I can feel my head hitting the proverbial EC wall.

I can clock up to +150 rather well, and get up to 1999MHz peaks, usually stabilizing at 1938-1986MHz at 64-71C @ 4K@60Hz. (In the games I play, which are kinda old, like SWTOR) The question I have is how much benefit do I get from OC'ing the memory? I can go pretty far in that regards, but wondering if I am just wasting voltage draw and heat on it?

 

Prioritise core but the memory won't consume too much extra power.

 

OC'd to +150/+500 and been stable, max temp of 74C.

 

Nice, the only thing to watch with memory is it can be stable but performance drop as you clock it higher. Benchmark it at a couple of different speeds to check.

 

Thanks for the heat/temp tips. Gonna do some tinkering and keep an eye on when the fans spin up specifically. Don't believe that it's a rogue background process, as it happens under linux as well, albeit not as often.

I was indeed using DISCRETE mode, but switching to HYBRID prevented me from booting from my linux drive. Might see what difference the hybrid mode makes when I have a chunk of time that I won't be needing the linux side of things. Not sure what that is all about.

All in all, the annoyance is minor, and I really can't complain since this was such a good deal way back when. I can deal with some whiny fans for a bit and hopefully there is a 6 or 8 core release of a comparable system in the not so distant future, perhaps with some more refined cooling ability.