PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

I am trying to find a list to see where those line up atm

 

thank you for benching!

 

Hi all, so I'm checking back in as I said I would. So I've had the 1510 for a week and a half now and I'm really happy with the purchase. Bought for $1300 and incidentally they just knocked another $50 off to make it $1250, no price change on the 1710 though. It can run any and all games I throw at it and cooling is great. Even though I haven't measured any temps, it never runs hot enough for me to notice even when it's on my lap after like several hours of high performance games.

I like the sturdy chassis and keyboard, the screen is great minus some noticeable IPS glow which I can live with and the fans are very quiet at idle, only ever becoming audible when gaming. Also I can confirm there's no ability to set significantly higher custom refresh rates like you can on the 1710, but whatever I guess.

It did blue screen a couple times when setting things up initially (a couple older games and I hadn't configured the g-sync yet... so maybe it was just the games going nuclear who knows) but everything has been smooth sailing since. I'll keep an eye on it.

So yeah, at the price point I'm super happy with what I got. Would recommend.

 

I found a laptop with a 7820hk a 1080 and 32gbs of ram for under 2300 bucks. Its a lot more but I render video and I might lean towards it if the 1710 doesnt drop anymore. If the 1710 drops to 1300 or below il probably just snag it. That would be too good of a deal.

 

Is this a glossy or anti-glare screen? Thanks for the review update!

 

Maybe this is a stupid question, but with such great value, what's stopping someone from picking one of these units up and selling them at a profit? At the listed price of $1,500, this is still a steal and could easily be resold...

 

Lack of warranty? You could do that outside the country, which would make a warranty moot, but in the country? I'd say forget it.

 

It's a matte screen.

 

Thanks! Funny that it doesn't mention that in the specifications.

 

Hi guys, can someone please tell me how to undervolt my 1710? Thanks!

 

You can use Throttlestop to under-volt your CPU, I recommend undervolting in steps until you reach the max where it is Stable.

forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/

 

Use a tool like throttlestop or intel XTU and lower it bit by bit while testing stability.

 

Picked up the 1710 today and noticed that the audio is uneven and there is no lighting underneath the spacebar. The audio seems to be offset towards the right side like left channel is emanating from the center, and right channel from the right edge. Can other owners chime in and report if they are experiencing something similar?

 

I got mine 1710 two days ago, the laptop is great for the price but is overheating. Playing BF1 for less than 10 minutes the CPU reached 90 - 94 C max temp and that's after I underclock it -0.110V using intel extreme tuning utility. Will repast the CPU and if that's not working gonna have to return it. Has anyone seen similar temperature >?
And yes the audio seems to be offset towards the right side, It feels like the right speaker is not working.
Otherwise, the laptop is perfect in any way!

 

My speakers seem fine, but I still opt for a headset most of the time. Also I have still been having the opposite heating issue. Below are a few screen shots after my 3rd Firestrike benchmark in a row. The score is high as I have the GPU overclocked to +105 core and +300 memory. The first is a screenshot of the score obviously, 2nd is of the hottest point for the CPU, and 3rd is the hottest point for the GPU. I would definitely try a repaste. I have heard the factory paste is not bad though, but there seem to be a couple of you having a similar issue. I have my CPU core offset set to -.125

Score: 14298
CPU Highest Temp: 67.99
GPU Highest Temp: 64

 

For those of you that have gotten this, does it actually have G-sync? There are a few users debating about it on MicroCenter. One reviewer claims:

Also, what kind of GTX 1070 does it have? Another reviewer said it has a hybrid gtx 1070. What's the difference between gtx 1070, hybrid gtx 1070, ftw hybrid gtx 1070, and gtx 1070 sli?? I know gtx 1070 max-q is like a 1070ti, in a way.

 

A gtx1070 max-q is essentially a gtx1065
those reviews are not so useful IMO

These models use a normal gtx1070

 

@sicily428 Yeah, you're right. That's what I meant. But what are hybrid and ftw hybrid?

 

It does have a standard GTX 1070 which is good as the Max-q is slower. Also, it looks like the user that may the statement about it not having gsync has since updated. It absolutely has GSync and requires you to switch the graphics to discrete mode which causing the laptop to solely use the GTX 1070 without Optimus or MSHYBRID. This opens up all of the rest of the settings in the NVIDIA control panel once rebooted, including the higher refresh rates and GSync settings. This is all outlined well in the manual so it is no challenge or problem doing so.

Also, the machine runs quite a bit cooler with an adjustment to the fan speed offset because, in my opinion, it does not run them fast enough per load % and an offset simply increases the fan speed per load tier. I read the reviews and disagree with the heat problem, as you can see in my heat results in my previous posts. I still do not see much more than low 70's (usually in the 60's) with the GPU during any game I have played, this is with an overclock of the GPU also.

 

Hello I've been looking at the 1510 for a while now and was wondering if anyone could answer a few questions for me.
1) How are the thermals? Is it comfortable to play on while at max load?
2) What kinda battery life can I expect to get doing mixed usage activity after undervolting?
3) Are the fans loud while idling? Is WhisperMode available?

 

Just picked up a 1510 from Microcenter six hours ago.

I have an issue with the audio jack, and created a thread about it.

On another note, the performance of this laptop is insane, it destroys my PC.

 

1):
Thermals are not bad at all. I was playing Total War Shogun 2 maxed out (Ultra, Anti-aliasing on etc) and the keys are barely warm to the touch in the top left near WASD and ZX. The right side of the laptop by the numbpad also warm, but a bit cooler. I don't see overheating or throttling as an issue, but I'll know for sure once start my Civ 5 binge in a few minutes.


2):
Battery life is pretty bad. The drive home was roughly forty minutes and it was at 35%. You'll get two hours in ideal circumstances with web browsers, but maybe more or less if you keep brightness down and avoid downloading much.

I've only had it for six or so hours, but I've kept it charging since I made it home.

3):
The fans are about as loud as my Gaming PC, but it's not quiet. It's not a jet engine like a 1U server though . Just wear headphones if you can.

This computer has a very nice keyboard. The trackpad isn't even that bad, I was expecting it to blow like my old Thinkpad's .

 

Yes! Mine is also doing this, its driving me crazy.

 

Anyone have experience with vacuum cooling on the side/back vents? My 1510 ran hot with Shadow of War, the CPU was sitting around 95 and hitting 98. Turned on V-sync and helped a lot, now in the low 70s. Other usage has otherwise been fine for heat. I heard from employees that the 1710 ran very hot though.

Complaints: It is on the heavier side. Battery life is pretty bad, under two hours in the entertainment/balanced setting. Fans are pretty loud, too. Speakers are quiet and possibly offset. Plugging in and using headphones is the way to go.

That said, the machine is fast, and offered at great value. I'm content with the tradeoffs.

 

@AWDER Thanks! I put in a reservation for the 1510, but I'm debating on if I should get the 1710 instead. I guess I'll check it out in the store. Just wondering, have you weighed the laptop? Sager and other online stores say the P650hs-g is 5.5 lbs. However, Micro Center says it's 6.25 lbs.

So far the only (simple) difference, that I can see, between the 1510 and 1710 is that the 1710 is 17", thinner, weighs more, has Thunderbolt 3 and gets hotter? I prefer the portability of the 1510. But if the 1710 is a better machine...

On a side note, what exactly are the advantages of Thunderbolt 3? (I kind of understand what it is and that it can possibly allow you to upgrade your GPU...but that's all my simple brain can comprehend. Sorry for the stupid question. I'm upgrading from an old laptop.)

Wish me a safe trip! I'm driving 3 hours there and 3 hours back. (Still cheaper!)

 

Thunderbolt 3 uses PCI-E for communication so can attach higher bandwidth peripherals like multiple displays and external GPUs with some caveats.

 

I am experiencing the same issue. I feel like that the subwoofer is causing this problem (which is on the right side). In some music the audio sounds even and sometimes the right side over power the left. Its bothersome but the audio is sounds decent for a laptop. I tried going through the audio settings but nothing really works. Have you found a solution for this yet?

 

Did you find a fix for this? I feel like that subwoofer is acting as a third speaker. Its causing the right side sound louder and uneven. Let me know if you find a fix or this is normal.

 

where can i change these settings?

 

@Drawde you can change it in the ControlCenter program which is open on startup (under hidden icons next to your battery display). Under system program, you can select fan speed and power conservation for each profile.

Turning fan speed up to max seems to help, but not enough; I'm still running around the high 80s and 90s on the Witcher 3 and Shadow of War at 1080p with Ultra settings. It peaks at 98 occasionally. The vacuum cooler (Opolar) seemed to make temps worse, and was an awkward fit. What's the point of a 1070 if I can't take advantage of it without worrying about temps all the time? I talked to some people at the store and they said this is the first iteration this PowerSpec gaming laptop, so it's cheap to introduce it to market, but there are bound to be kinks (like cooling and battery) to iron out before the next version comes out.

I'm curious if others have had better luck with heat? I'm afraid I'll have to return mine for good, though.

 

Unfortunately it seems the audio results just from how this particular model is designed. I had checked drivers/EQ/speaker settings at first, and all were balanced. I exchanged out my unit with another new unit at the store and the audio is the same. Other users are reporting the same thing so I'm chalking it up to being just a poor design choice instead of "we all got duds". I ended up returning the exchanged unit since a new issue arose where the display started to flicker whenever I tapped the lid or closed it. Turns out there is a bad cable inside the lower right side hinge/bezel, and whenever any pressure is applied to that area the display starts to cut out/flicker/form lines. I decided I'm going to wait and see what deals pop up for black friday or Christmas.

 

have you tried undervolting? got pretty good results. the only game i play is overwatch so nothing too demanding.

 

I happened to have a Cooler Master SP19 cooler, and tested the unit with it during gameplay. After several hours, peak CPU temp was 73C, and 60C on the GPU maintaining 97FPS with GSync set to 100Hz. The underside does have air slots to benefit from a laptop cooler, however, make sure the cooler can provide good air pressure. Unit is a 1710.

 

A small prop to lift the back does pretty well too.

 

Hi everyone, thanks for all the valuable info. I spent a good couple of weeks reading everything and doing my research and ended up buying PowerSepc 1710 last weekend, mainly for having the thunderbolt 3 port which allows future upgrades more easily. Also, looking at both models side by side in store, I find the 1710 model more visually appealing than 1510 (just my personal preference).

Setup and Drivers:
I formatted the SSD and installed Windows 10 pro, got all the drivers and utilities from PowerSpec's website http://www.powerspec.com/support/support_archive.phtml?selection=1710 and installed latest Nvidia drivers from their website. Enabled "discrete" mode for GPU in the bios and verified the monitor could reach the 100Hz refresh rate. I have a three-monitor setup (connected my two 24" DELL IPS monitors using the DVI to mini displayport cables) and everything works smoothly.

Heat:
I installed the Control Center utility which allows playing around with CPU/GPU and fan settings. Initially I saw CPU and GPU temperatures raised quickly (CPU to 91 and GPU to 68) when playing games even with a cooling pad running. After playing around for a while I found out that activating "Power Saving" mode under "Power Consumption" in Control Center kept my CPU temps < 55 and my GPU temps < 65). I still run at the game at highest settings and didn't notice a difference.

Audio:
Works well. Thankfully I haven't had any "unbalanced" audio issues, may want to replace it if you notice this issue.

Hope this helps.

To be continued...

 

I've been debating for weeks about which gaming laptop I would purchase. I did a ton of research and settled on the 1710. It is indeed an amazing value.

As soon as I got it, following the guidance on this thread (I am not computer-savvy), I switched the screen from 60hz to 100hz. Works great. I then undervolted by -110 (I read others went to -125, but I am being conservative). I did not play with the fans yet.

The machine runs amazingly.

I played a few games and the highest temp I saw was 79 degrees. The keys get slightly warm, but the reviews that said they got HOT HOT HOT are wrong. Barely noticeable.

The audio "issue" is indeed present on my laptop. I use quotes because its not that big of a deal. It does seem like more sound comes out of the right side, but its not unbearable. Small price to pay for a $2000 dollar machine that costs $1400.

My only question for others: Does your spacebar light up like the rest of the keys? Mine does not. If anyone could let me know, Id appreciate it!

 

@jbond007 @Efcls Thanks for your feedback about the 1710. I actually picked up the 1510, last Saturday, since it was the model I had put on reserve and planned on purchasing. I had a little bit of time to look at both models. Both are very nice laptops! In reality, the 1710 didn't feel very different in terms of weight compared to the 1510. It just felt like the weight is localized towards the back. It is thinner, though! I wish both laptops were a bit lighter. They are slightly heavy for me, but I wouldn't be able to get a different, lighter laptop with these specs for a similar price AND still have decent cooling.

I felt a bit awkward in the store. I appeared to know more than the sales people...at least, with the PowerSpec laptops. (I'm not that knowledgeable! lol) When I asked how to change the color of the keyboard for the 1510, the sales person told me only the MSI laptops have RGB keyboards. I told him that it says online the 1510 and 1710 models are RGB, and reviewers said they are rebranded Clevo models. (I'm not sure if they were familiar with Clevo...) While the sales person tried to figure out how to change the keyboard color on the 1510, he let me use the 1710 to search up the manual. After messing around with buttons, he figured it out. lol. Then, I asked how to turn the fans to high...which I ended up problem-solving because he said I could just press buttons to figure it out. I couldn't find the Control Center. (I don't think it's on the store model??) Basically, the sales person ended up letting me do whatever I wanted on the laptops and left me alone. SO, I did audio tests and display tests via Youtube.

I did notice the audio seemed to project more from the right side of the 1710. I'm not sure if it's a model defect or specific to that laptop. Also, it was a bit warm to the touch on the top left side by the speaker. The keys looked just barely smaller than the 1510, but it's not noticeable. I could type on it fine, but I do have small hands. Overall, I really liked the feel of both models -- the keyboard responded well and felt nice, the speakers seemed pretty good, I liked the display, and the touchpad was good. (I checked out the MSI Titan, and I hated the touchpad! It was not responding well, at all...very annoying. FYI, the MSI Titan is a beast!! Almost 9 lbs!) I wasn't able to see the MSI Raider, since they don't have it in their store.

Even though I purchased the 1510, I haven't gotten to open it and make sure it works fine. (I only had time to purchase it, before going out of town.) I debate on whether or not I should switch to the 1710, since it has Thunderbolt and I could change the display to 100hz. Initially, I wasn't interest in a 17" because they usually weigh more. However, I don't want to have cooling issues.

 

Thanks for the tip. made a huge difference for me as well.

 

My idle temps been at 50~60 even after undervolting while my highest CPU temp while gaming was around 93.

I’ve tried undervolting and putting into power saving mode does impact gaming performance.

I’m thinking about trying to replace thermal paste, but I’ve never opened up a laptop before. Is it straightforward, or is there a how to guide for this model?

 

for the unbalanced speaker audio i think i found a fix.. Open sound blaster connect 2 and disable the eq. anyone try this? it makes it less loud on the same volume setting but it is no longer heavier on the right IMO.

honestly i dont really use speakers and never have.

 

interested in doing this as well at some point. let us know if you find any guides! i couldn't find anyway. the only game i really play is OW and powersaving mode didn't make any different for me aside from much better temps so that'll do for now.

 

Take the bottom screws out, remove the cover, unscrew the heatsinks, remove them and clean the surfaces/dies. Use an X pattern on the GPU and a thin line in parallel to the long side of the CPU using a good thermal paste.

 

I really wanted to keep it and avoid the hassle, but after 2 returns for dead pixels, and 2 returns for temps in the high 90s with vacuum coolers (without undervolting though), I was out. I would have repasted like I did on my old 13" Sager if it didn't void the 2 yr warranty I paid for (be aware that you already have a 1 yr warranty which is also voided should you do this). People at the store said they got a ton of returns citing the same reasons.

More power to you all who made the temps work.

Put the same amount of money into my first custom build with Ryzen 1800x and gtx 1080, double the ssd and 150% hdd capacity, so fingers crossed it goes as planned.

Oh and for those repasting, Arctic Silver 5 is one of, if not the best to use.

 

I was travelling in the US and picked up a PowerSpec 1710 at Microcenter, excellente deal, didn't really have time to test it thoroughly and missed the fact that there is a stuck/dead pixel on my screen, it apparently shows as pink/red on a white background and black on a blue background, now I'm back in my home country (Brazil) and cannot exchange the laptop for a new one.

I've tried both the software option for a few hours and massaging/tapping/pressing on it to see if it would fix the problem, to no avail.

So basically, now I'm stuck with the dead pixel, and altought it's not in the dead center of the screen, it still bothers me alot!

Was thinking of buying a replacement screen and swapping it, after alot of research I found that the specific screen for this laptop (PowerSpec 1710, Sager NP8370 and Clevo PA71HP6-G) is the LP173WF4(SP)(F5), is this information correct?

I also found detailed instructions on how to exchange the screens, besides the screen which I found at various websites, would I need something else? Is it really as "simple" as presented in the manual preserving G-Sync, 75hz in discrete mode, etc.

Would I need to mess with bios, firmware, os just swap out and connect the new screen and I'm ready to go? Have no experience with that.

My second question is that I tried to remove the back cover to exchange the mechanical hard-drive for a SSD but was unable to remove it, even after removing ALL the screws and gently releasing the back cover from all sides, it seems to be stuck at somewhere along the middle, is there some kind of trick to release it? The user manual seems to indicate that I need to remove the keyboard, is this whats holding the backcover?

I would greatly appreciate any help!

I saw that @ Meaker@Sager posts in this topic, could you verify if what I posted is correct, if the LP173WF4(SP)(F5) is really the screen for the PowerSpec 1710 and Sager NP8370, thanks!

 

Anyone have a good link for this undervolting (how you actually did it).

Followed this link to overclock the display to 100. But I only get two bars (the link mentions) you need 3 bars. And I never get verified, just "ready"

Also I changed to discrete mode in bios and the light in front is green to represent this. But control center is displaying mshybrid - is this a false positive ? See attachment. Thanks !


Anyone else ?

 

I just got my powerspec 1710, I'm having trouble accessing bios. Do you hold down or tap F2 upon reboot?

 

*First post and first gaming laptop*

My wife picked up the 1510 for me as a birthday/Christmas gift. $1250 was too good a price to miss out on. As a good, “patient” husband I’m waiting till Christmas to open it.

So to save some time when I do open it, I have a couple of questions for 1510 owners.

What do you reccomend I do first as soon as it boots up?

Is G-sync already on or do I have to turn it on? Also does it help with temperatures?

I heard the 1510 was better with cooling. Is undervolting still recommended for it?

Should I get a cooling pad anyway?

Any other tips?

 

Since it's windows 10 when you first boot up you'll have to deal with cortana or whatever. I just disabled all that junk. After that I hit up ninite to get a bunch of utility programs and then just whatever browser, games, microsoft office, antivirus stuff I needed.

Gsync should already be enabled, but you're going to want to disable vsync in games for it to actually work. Tbh, I'm not 100% sure on the settings but I know that it comes fully enabled. Depending on what you want your power settings to be, you can set the 1070 to be in discrete mode through the performance panel thing that always loads up on the task bar. That's what I've done since I didn't want to have to deal with intel graphics switching back and forth.

Cooling (on my unit at least) is pretty good. I downloaded Intel Extreme Tuning Utility (IXTU) which is free, and undervolted by .125mV anyways since there's literally no drawback and it improves thermals. I haven't seen temps on gpu or cpu above like 80C.

 

I'm trying to open the underside casing, and removed all screws, but a section on the lower left side won't part. Any ideas why? Trying to add a new 960 EVO drive.

From looking on the inside, it appears to be a screw mount that faces the keyboard side. It would be quite annoying if I need to pop up the kb to get to it.

 

No reversed screws, double check you have them all.