Recommed 180W / 220W power supply for P150EM?

Nope, a full-sized socket PSU! By full-sized I mean its power cable is 3-pinned, not 2-pinned (which is ALWAYS good!)

 

where did u get that efficiency spec from?@87%? or is that just an "educated" guess?

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mine says "87% efficiency" in the spec sheet too

 

aaaah, good to know ive been wondering about the PSU´s efficiency rating for quite some time now

 

Actually if you look underneath the PSU you will see "Efficiency Level" and then a Roman Numeral, usually V which means 90% efficiency: http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partne...International_Efficiency_Marking_Protocol.pdf

And it states for 49 to 250 W output: " Average Active Efficiency: Standard: ≥ 0.870, Low Voltage: ≥ 0.860"

" Power supplies with greater than or equal to 100 watts input power must have a true power factor of 0.9 or greater at 100% of rated load when tested at 115 volts @ 60Hz."

 

How difficult would it be to mod the tip of a dell slim 240w adapter like this? Amazon.com: Original Dell 240W AC Power Adapter Charger P13F Laptop Notebook Computers -Flextronics Flat Version: Computers & Accessories

It would be awesome if someone could get this adapter working, price isn't too bad either.

 

How important is the ferrite bead on the ac adapters ? The 120 watt adapter didn't have one and I wondering how important it is

 

For the P150EM, suggest combining the Dell PA9E (slim, easy to find on Amazon) with the 57J49 adapter

 

I believe that adapter to 4.5mm is the wrong size too.

 

Can anyone confirm if this solution works?... This is very tempting compared to the stock power brick

 

Yeah if that works, that's an awesome solution. Just need to know if that adapter actually works with the NP9150.

 

afaik the outer diameter of the p150hm/em psu adapter is 5.5mm with a 2.5mm inner diameter. so 4.5mm shouldnt work...

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Just to confirm those dimensions and that it wont work before anyone orders one.

 

Yes sorry disregard the above.

The PA9E power supply is fine, but using it with the P150EM requires cutting cables, heatshrink, solder, soldering iron, etc. I just did this since the Clevo power supply was too noisy and too bulky.

The Dell / Flextronics is higher rated, slimmer, and better quality. I switched the plugs on the two.

 

noisy? how can a laptop psu be noisy?

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Any switching PSU can be noisy because of PWM. Usually, laptop PSUs are well-made (proper switching and PWM modes, compound-filled etc.) but some models are not properly designied and/or assembled so they can produce audible noise in some operating modes (in most cases, depending on the load).

 

haha ok, looks like i got lucky with psus then so far

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Looks like I need to start working on my old alienware psu, with the 180W psu, 2 hdd plugged into usb port, 15% oc on the GTX 680M was enough to make my screen dim for a few second in some games. Looks funny but I guess it's giving me a warning..

 

Any updates or solutions for a P150EM? Would this work?

Amazon.com: NEW GENUINE Dell Precision M4600 180 Watt AC Adapter 74X5J DA180PM111 ADP-180MB: Electronics

 

hmmm, not sure but from the looks of it the adapter might be a bit too large. the hm/em series both need one with 5.5/2.5mm outer/inner diameter and 12mm length.

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Is anyone looking to sell their modded 220-240w power supply? I think my power supply is operating at its limit as I'm starting to get throttling and system instability issues...

 

what are ur temps? throttling is usually caused by too much heat rather than an overstressed psu

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I'm getting up to105 degrees under full load where as before I was getting 90 degrees maximum, I believe the CPU fan isn't spinning properly due to a power supply issue, I'm also finding the laptop doesn't boot properly sometimes and I'm getting random program crashes and Windows giving me messages from windows saying my system in instable when this happens which I believe is usually caused by power supply issues

 

oh gee, those temps are waaaaay too high my friend. u should check ur heatsink fins and fans for dust buildup and also consider a repaste. i bet thats where ur system instabilities come from.

an overstressed psu would "just" make ur system crash instantly, as in ur laptop switching off from one second to the next, without any warning signs.

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Damn, I knew the temps were too high but I'm honestly not sure why, I repasted my CPU about 2 months ago and opened the bottom and gave the fans a quick clean yesterday but it didn't seem to make much difference, the high temp thing seemed to happen overnight aswell, one minute it was fine the next it wasn't, oh well looks I'm gonna have to remove my CPU and give it a proper clean

 

You could maybe have a slightly faulty heatpipe? If your issues persist I would have it checked out by your reseller.

 

^ That's an interesting point, I'm not sure it is just dust as the temps aren't constantly high, I've just checked XTU and throttlestop and the temps seem to be jumping around alot, worried there might be something wrong with the CPU itself now

EDIT: The temps actually seem to drop when I take the plug out of the back, I'm guessing it is a power supply issue, I'm really confused as to why though

 

keep us updated on your progress fordy

also make sure that ur heatsink isnt out of alignment and that all screws are tightly fastened.

 

I was measuring my power consumption from the wall during crysis 3 by the way, at 4.2ghz and 1033/2600 I was seeing about 225-230W

 

haha yep, id actually get similar readings (210-220W) at 4.7 turbo and 1045/1550

 

Yeah, the 680M really sky rockets after a certain point. You are looking at around 250W when pushing it and up.

 

^ Wow, I'm guessing a 680m doesn't have breathing room on a p150EM even at stock clocks, anyway it definitely seems to be a psu problem I'm having, without the psu in the temps stay under 60 degrees when idling plus it's alot quieter now

Out of interest what's my wattage likely to be like with a 3.8ghz 3720qm and a mildey overclocked 7970M?

 

Pushing the 180W from the unit most likely, remember my figures are from the wall so take 10% off to get the system consumption.

 

weeell, ull have to consider that without the PSU connected the system throttles itself its a standard powersaving feature, thats why u also never have 100% performance on battery. so its no surprise that ur temps are way cooler then

 

Yeah, 180w draw from a battery gives you super realistic smoke effects

 

I failed with my first PSU mod. My soldering iron wasn't hot enough yet I kept persisting on leaving it on the solder. Bad move. So I ordered another PSU and a new iron and will give it a go.

 

That's true but I was talking about simply when idling, I know that the laptop wont hit its full performance when on battery, with the laptop plugged and idling the CPU temps are averaging around the 75 degrees and bouncing all over the place also the fan gets really loud, I understand having PSU in let's the laptop stretch it legs but when the laptop is not anything the temps should be the same regardless of whether it's plugged in surely?

 

idle temps around 75C? O.O

 

Yep, whenever I add the power supply to the back the temps shoot up and really can't work out why, it makes no sense lol

 

Try changing the power plan to balanced.

 

^ Tried that and it made no difference, I've got my current psu replaced under warranty now, I'll update when it's in my hands

 

PSU? The system will draw what it has to, the PSU has no control over that.

 

Yeah PSU, maybe but I'm still getting erratic temps and system instability when the PSU is in and ONLY when the PSU is in, there's something not right with it

 

Or your motherboard power delivery is a bit wonky or your heatsink seating is not right or the heatsinks themselves are partially broken.

I hope it does fix it though.

 

Thanks for the other suggestions, I'll check those out if the new PSU does not fix it

 

By all means, let us know how you get on, i'll be really interested if the PSU was causing that.

 

same here

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Does anybody know of a cheap charger that would have a slightly longer cord than this one?
It looks pretty short

 

The problem with cheap chargers is that the cord will use thin gauge wire.

 

Well do you happen to have any recommendations for a suitable charger with a longer cord?