Recommed 180W / 220W power supply for P150EM?

The one that shipped with your unit? Or an official 180W PSU.

 

For $95? No thanks

 

Maybe put out a call for a burned unit to salvage the cable from?

 

Very good idea! Thank you

 

DC cords in notebook power supplies usually are not made long (because of high currents, to prevent voltage drop). The best way is to have longer AC cord (one piece or use an extension cord).

 

Exactly which is why a longer one needs to be from a decent supply so it's a thick gauge and helps reduce any voltage drop, the sager/MSI right angled ones are pretty good (what I use).

 

Dang it. I can't keep the solder from balling up. I can't get a good solder joint for the replacement cable. Using flux and rosin core solder, and it keeps balling up... grrr.

 

Lol I managed it with simply solder and an iron (and a sucker to clear the original stuff) Make sure you are heating the cable and applying the solder to the cable.



<3 Nice long and healthy gauge

 

Where did you get that cable?

 

From Paladin's original PSU from his own personal system I pinched

 

But what could be a reason to have a thicker DC cord instead of a longer and thin AC cord? Most 3-wire AC cords have 0.75mm2 (18..19AWG) wires but 0.5mm2 (20AWG) wires are quite enough because AC currents are very low.

 

Because it lets you have the brick away from the machine somewhere more convienient.

 

Yep, like on the floor instead of on the desk.

 

Yep so you guys were right, it's not the psu, got my new one yesterday and it's made no difference whatsoever, I'm not going to take my laptop apart right now either as I'm on my 2nd year of uni and can't really afford to be without it if I mess something up, I believe if I made a warranty claim I would need to send then laptop back to the reseller and again and again would be without my laptop for a while, guess I'll just try not to do anything to processor intensive for a month or 2 also I'll remember that if anything else goes wrong with my laptop to ask here first!

 

You are allowed to do general maintenance and not void you warranty.

 

So I've finished my 2nd year of uni and planned to send the laptop back to my reseller but they wouldn't take it back as the BIOS has been modified to OC the cpu so it looks like some DIY is in order, unfortunately I've never fixed a laptop myself before, what should I look for? I remember someone saying it could be the heat sinks are they likely to be cracked, warped or something else, if it's not seated right will it be wobbly? Should I remove the cpu entirely, if it's a wobbly power supply on the motherboard how do I get to that? Thanks for any help in advance

 

why dont u flash back to a stock bios then to be able to send it back to ur reseller?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

I would open it and clean it, take the fan out check for dust and then just put it back together and see if that has done the trick.

 

I would but unfortunately I've never flashed a BIOS before, the BIOS installed on my laptop now was actually installed by the previous owner of the laptop, tbh though I wouldn't mind giving it a go as I've flashed new BIOS's to my phone plenty of times before, do I need software to do it or can I do it within my BIOS, also is there any way I can back up my current BIOS?

I've opened it up and given it a clean with compressed air especially the fans which helped a bit but the temperatures are still really high, I think the fans are fairly dust free now, I always keep my laptop on a wooden surface and the back's raised up so the fans aren't touching any surface

 

If you do replace the CPU heatsink, you may as well get the copper one from the P170 series.

 

Thanks, will do

 

May as well get an upgrade if you have to spend money

 

Yeah don't short it!

 

Hi guys how hard would it be to open the included power brick remove the cable, then open this Dell 240W slim adapter ( Amazon.com: Dell 240W AC Power Adapter Charger P13F Laptop Notebook Computers -Flextronics Flat Version: Computers & Accessories ) and insert the cable from the clevo brick in it then close? Would it work? Cheers

 

On some dell supplies yes and on some you need to provide some sort of feedback to a third pin. This is within the same model number so it seems to be pot luck.

 

So it is not that simple. Any words on a slim Clevo brick? Or has anyone tried one of the Dell 's and can confirm it works?

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I was lucky on my dell and it works flawlessly.

 

So please if you don't mind, link it to me where you got yours from. Cheers

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One off from ebay and from a while back.

 

Do you happen to know the seller name or at least the Sku number?

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Sorry I looked back but since the listing is too old now I cant go through and check the item. Like I said it differs within the same model number.

 

I found these 16AWG wires and ordered one. I will let you know how it works out: Bixpower 6 ft DC Power Cable 16AWG with 5 5 x 2 5mm Male to Female Connectors | eBay

There's also this one, just may take a while to get here since it ships from overseas: New DC 5 5 x 2 5mm Laptop Power Supply Elbow Plug Connector 1 1M Cable | eBay

 

So I had been looking at X75 Power Connector - 7.4 x 5.08mm Female Jack to 5.5 x 2.5mm Male Plug as well as some of the other things some of you have been doing to use the larger PSU.

I have consulted with some contacts and the seller, Bixnet and found some issues/concerns.

First, these adapters as well as many cables being purchased on eBay, regardless of the wire AWG (which is somewhat important too) are all rated for very lower amps.

So for example, the above adapter, with 16awg wire (which they are having new shipments upgraded to once in stock) will be rated for 5-6amp MAX continues voltage. They can handle brief spikes of higher fine but should NOT be used for constant loads such as what would happen say playing a game which puts the laptop under heavy load.

Initially many of us had concerns it was wire size (which is valid) and we also knew that 5.5x2.5mm tips are limited but seems two different limit types exist.

On the Clevo 180w PSU the tip is rated for a max 10amps. On these extension, adapters, or even replacement cables, most are rated 5-6amp max, even with same size wire.. why/how? Look at the inside of your tip... You will notice that on the factory 180w PSU the entire inside is solid metal. This allows for a larger area of contact in addition to heat dispersing. Now, look at these other cables, notice how you only see two little pins/clams, one on each side of the hole? The rest of the inside is all plastic... These are rated half the load because they are not built to handle the heat that would be created under the load.

So that said, everyone using some other cable, extension or tip, you need to check this and make sure what you have. While these may work, at some point if you keep the laptop under load for long enough repeated times you will either end up with an end that melts, short or other type of damage and that is no good, esp if a fire or worse happened..

It seems the only true safe method, which of course is not the best as nothing really is for this is to use the original cable off a 180w PSU unless the cable you purchased is proper. Seems a lot of places cheap out or just didn't know about the tips and often you can't tell when you buy them...

Anyway just wanted to share these findings...

 

This is why I use only harvested cables from 180w supplies to those who I modded supplies for and for myself.

 

I would if it didn't mean I had to spend $100 to get the cable lol

I want to keep my PSU to keep in my bag and the more powerful one on the floor for desk that I game at.

Wonder if anyone sells these actual cables.

I still rather do an adapter though if it was same quality as it allows the main cable to be larger AWG until the end when it converts but also doesn't involve opening an PSU to void it's warranty and have to deal with swapping cables around and an hot iron hah.

 

The 240W slim is more portable anyway, lower volume and lighter but able to provide more power.

 

Yeah but for whatever reason they seem to have a high failure rate when they are used in a manner in which they are under high load repeatedly for long periods, such as gaming every day for 3 hours a day.
No idea why. I guess to be smaller means you have to give up something right? hah

My job has a slew of them we have had to replace on laptops even. Both delta and the other brand made ones even.

I also see it reflected in many of the reviews. Most people say they are great and about 4-6 months later poop out.

I don't really care about size since it will be behind a desk I rather good quality.

 

If you are concerned then the 330W is also moddable.

 

Ugh I can't find the cable used on the 180w clevo FSP PSU any place.

Even FSP, PSU manufacture, only sells with 4-pin cable standard. I don't know why clevo had to do us this way lol They paid extra to get these with the 5.5x2.5 because they didn't want a 4-pin on the mb, though the same mb used in 17" use the 4-pin... bahh..

I found the same wire manufacture even lol, but they just sell the wire, not the ends and all the ends I seem to find are lower quality and rated vs. what I see this one as.

Anyone got an 180w PSU they want to sell cheap? I don't care if the PSU is dead even lol
I also think the tip on the 120w cable PSU is different (lower rated) even.

 

today i received the 240watt dell psu.to mod it i just cut the jack from 180watt psu and then one from 240watt then i joined the 2 cables each one with electrical tape and for last thing i used electrical tape again again over them.also dell psu had a 3rd smaller wire that i just cut it and cover it with tape again connected nowhere.is that good or i have a problem?
the laptop works fine both overclocked gpu and cpu for some tests but i think i did it the bad way...what can i do now?order new 180watt psu and try again?

 

...

Do it properly. I think this is how you do it: Get a soldering iron and strip the wires. Solder them, and heatshrink them (positive wire goes with positive, heatshrink, and then negative wire goes with negative, heatshrink). After that, heatshrink the outer insulation.Then put a ferrite core over it (empty it out first).

You can ignore the 3rd small wire.

Using electrical tape to keep the wires connected is a huge fire hazard.

 

Double and triple on the concern for that here, especially if you are running 180W + loads through it.

 

Right. Best to go in and remove current wire and solder at the base.

 

i ll order a new 180watt psu tomorrow and i ll do it the right way this time..!

 

Yes it's a little pricy but at the same time so is your house set on fire... and maybe you loose something with no price tag or someone.

 

So do you, as of now, sell your modded PSUs? Specifically the 240w Dell one? If so, how much? Do you solder the wire at the base?

Of course, I know there are safety concerns and risks, but don't mind it.

 

I'm not allowed to sell directly on the forum. If you have offers for me personally you may want to pm me.

 

guys today i received a new clevo p150hm psu from here.

power supply / AC adapter 180 Watt for Clevo P150HM: battery, power supply, display, etc - Laptop Repair Shop

i gone to a technician and solder the clevo cable to the 240watt dell psu.

the problem i have is that cpu draws a bit lower power than before.look pics pls.i also have little drop at cpu scores.

3DMark 11 with previous cable(the jack was cut off form clevo cable and soldered to dell cable)



3DMark 11 with new 180watt psu cable soldered at base of 240w dell psu



why that difference is watt consuption for cpu?it has something to do with the cable?btw im running a bios from Prema with this TDP.

 

What happens if you raise the tdp further?

 

dont know m8.i must contant prema for new bios to check it out.any idea whats going on?

edit:maybe he didnt solder it good enough?any suggestions?