or maybe they saw some of us added extra heatsinks and saw how they could profit from it off of un suspecting buyers. same as the icd7 haha which was done poorly in most cases.
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now if they added fans and ducts then this would be a completely different matter haha.
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hey ht have you seen these, they would work pretty well in your w110er mod, and any future mods Ultra Miniature Delta BFB0305HA 5VDC Brushless Blower-The Electronic Goldmine theyrs 3.49 right now but i got 5 on sale for 2 bucks each, and they have decent pressure for being so small.
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Yeah, one thing to note is that although resellers make it seem like they themselves apply IC Diamond, they don't..
The factory does, so don't really keep your hopes up.. Factory people aren't as caring as the reseller front. Might as well buy one for $10 and apply it myself... -
this mod makes a notebook cooler much more effective, since there is airflow going past the heatsinks at that point.
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Which mod? Your air vent mod?
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no just adding the extra heatsinks on top of the existing ones.
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yes, but since they are blowers, they have higher pressure, over 5 times a comparable sized fan, and are more direct, which means they can push that air through a bunch of little heatsinks better than a normal fan. also they can fit in tighter spaces too because they dont blow air straight through, but at an angle. and they can be tuned down haha, but they arent too too loud maxxed out.
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yeah i lucked out, they were 1.99 each last week so i bought a bunch. and for the p150em, use power from the hdd caddy so you dont void your warranty, and then you can put the switch on it too, or maybe a dial of sorts.
odd on the back of the fan it says .17a, so its .85 watts so it must be around 9500 rpm, even though it says it should be 7500. -
Hehe, XoticPC will soon offer these fans as an upgrade for $95.
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bahahaha, im gonna make some ducts out of aluminum tape to direct the airflow properly, surely they cant do that.
edit: i bet you could find some better replacement blower fans too, with higher cfm, now that would be a real upgrade -
I'm not even considering modding my P150EM, well other than foil tape because it's easy to remove. And temps below 75C without Fn+1. I am actually considering modding my NP6110 some more though by getting an mSATA SSD, with an mSATA to SATA converter, clear up half my HDD bay and have a direct line to blow on my CPU.
Like this:
I just need to find a cheap 16GB mSATA drive to experiment with it. -
Does the cpu get really hot on it? And yeah, that could work, make some ducts to channel the air correctly past the fins and out of the case.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 -
Are there any grills for air passage on the backplate below the HDD bay when you put it on?
Else I think putting a fan there wouldn't really work -
This might be a stupid question....but where are the pins to power the fan in the motherboard? Or do I have to do some soldering to the motherboard to make this work?
Thanks. -
I soldered to the USB port to draw 5V
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I just ordered 4. I thought I better before price goes up again, with everyone else ordering them lol.
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Link to thread?
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That is completely overkill. You really need some way to move air across that copper, otherwise you're just adding more bulk and heating up inside the case without the hot air going anywhere.
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i saved this photo long time ago at my laptop..
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I can possibly see it working if there were fans blowing on them, and if those were aluminum instead of copper. -
Copper is ok. It's the best for heat transfer, but it's also a lot more dense and heavier so can create hotspots if you're not careful.
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I wouldn't be too worried about heat staying trapped in there. -
Looks like I'll have to find another place to buy these fans from. Just got this email:
We regret to inform you that we are permanently Sold Out of item G17010 Ultra Miniature Delta BFB0305HA 5VDC Brushless Blower.
We apologize for this inconvenience. Note that this order has been canceled and your credit card has not been charged.
Sincerely,
David
The Electronic Goldmine -
wow sorry man, thats the cheapest site too haha. anyways, i might seal the fans so they just intake from the bottom grill, there is more than enough on mine since i put in the metal grills.
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Yeah they're at least $10 everywhere else. Too expensive for me.
edit: $6.95 + free shipping on eBay. -
I just got the email, too. I had an awesome idea for them, too.
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ok so i removed the ducts and added exaust vents and now its even better 63.5c after 5 minutes of kombustor. and i attached some pics if you want to look and see what ive done.
Attached Files:
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no i stripped the wires and crimped them to a usb cable(you can see it in the fourth photo), actually i think im goin to print a pcb that can fit into the 3g card slot, and use power from that, then ill just add either a knob or switch and ill be all set.
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I bought 3 from ebay. Cost the same as ordering 4 from that place because of shipping. And I likely will only need 2. -
i did put them in and they work great ill post a kombustor screen, showing with fn+1 how the fans affects the tempurature, when they are on, ill activate them after 5 minutes.
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Phenomenal work Aduy I fully plan on replicating your mod with maybe a little extra as soon as my rig gets shipped. I'm also assuming the NP9170 will have more room for mods.
Technical Question: Since aluminium has better heat dissipation (I don't get why since better conductivity means better conductivity to air as well?) than copper, yet worse heat conductivity, shouldn't we be using copper tape instead of aluminium tape to seal the gaps between the fins/sinks /fan? The heat dissipation by the Aluminium tape will be negligible since it's a narrow taping and sandwiched between copper radiators, but the copper conductivity will enhance overall heat transmission from the CPU/GPU to the vents/radiators. Can I patent it?
Another question: Is it a good idea to clump as many of these little heat sinks/fins together as possible? The point is that there is some air between the stock heatsinks and the shell, that can be used to dissipate heat but that space/air is limited, so shouldn't we try to place them sparingly as to leave enough space/air around each to siphon the heat off of the fins? I'd suggest perhaps half the number of sinks required to fully saturate the surface.
Unless of course, someone else has done some leg work and verified that with every heat sink added, benefit was seen. -
no cause i have some ordered already haha. i attached the kombustor screen. i ran this test stock clocks and voltage, flat on my desk with max fans (fn+1). after 5 minutes i turned on the extra fans, and it dropped from 80c to 77c. my ac was blowing the whole time until about 7 minutes in, at which the temp was 77c, and then it stopped, so it went back up to 78c, so about 3 degrees drop with fn+1 on so pretty good considering all of the other things done already.
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That didn't really answer any of my questions. Who are you addressing?
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Firstly i had already ordered some copper tape to test, secondly about the number of heatsinks, this may be true, but if you have airflow, via notebook cooler, or extra fans
, i would think the number that you could use effectively would go up, and if aluminum dissapates heat more quickly, i would imagine using aluminum heatsinks like the ones i have would be better than copper ones.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 -
Oh you're posting from your phone. No wonder you're not being very elaborate
I already pointed out that aluminium heat sinks are better than copper ones (I just said I didn't understand the basis behind it, but it's the concensus) I was talking about the tape, and you said you ordered and tried copper tape and it wasn't better? How did you verify that? Temps? It makes sense that copper tape would conduct heat better. -
I have it ordered, im still waiting, it hasnt even shipped for some reason, so im waiting till then and then ill lap and repaste and then the only thing left is to tinker with the extra fans, ducts and exaust.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 -
Good temps!
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It would be a good idea to test all three methods and notice improvements.
1) no seal as baseline
2) seal everything with electrical tape to get the contribution just from increased pressure through radiators
3) seal and thermally couple GPU and VRAM radiators with aluminum tape and seal radiators to fan with electrical tape, to get the contribution from only thermally coupling GPU and VRAM radiators.
4) Seal and thermally couple GPU, VRAM radiators and fan cover with alluminum tape to get contribution from using fan cover as extension to radiators.
5) replace aluminum tape with copper tape. (should get better thermal coupling between all components)
6) add a few layers of copper tape for better heat conduction between VRAM, GPU radiators and fan cover to see if there is a noticable improvement. -
where to buy these fans in europe?
they are loud?
Xoticpc copper cooling upgrade?
Discussion in 'Sager and Clevo' started by DdudeACE, Jul 11, 2012.