Can you do me a favor an try overwatch with render scale of 175% maxed out and uncapped fps and see what you get. I repasted my GPUS serveral times so i know my re paste is correct. Now, I only get this temps when i intent to push GPUs to their limits.... If i just click on Epic Graphics settings the temps stay around 78-83c but if you change the render scale setting to %175 you will see your temps go north of 85c unless you use a laptop cooler or your AC is blowing right at your laptop.
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Main menu? In-game is cold for me, don't cross 70c or so.
Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut -
The key with overwatch is to change the Render scale settings to 175% or above and your GPUs will be running to their absolute max I have seen 89c on that game just like that. If you choose just the Epic"graphic setting" it puts the render scale to 122% and it caps your FPS to 130 -
I know how to burn OW yes. Maybe I should actually run it like 150% res and turn on SLI for gaming with it xD
Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut -
Your GPU max at 75 sli? What game?
Sitting at overwatch main menu 1440p ultra setting 100% render scale will make my card go 82-80c -
I get around those temps too -
Yeap 1440p ultra 100% render scale.
I should add that my pads are not based off of any of the pad measurements here. It's literally the absolute minimum possible. -
Really don't find the game appealing at that render scale. It's more eye candy and less gameplay at that point. Mostly you won't even get the time to admire how pretty things are when a match gets going.
Then again im the kinda guy who plays CSGO @ 1280x960 everything set to absolute minimum.
But will run the tests for you guys once my system is back.Scerate likes this. -
Hmm, care to give us your pad measurement then? What's your ambient also?
I will check the contact of GPU later on. -
Try Epic and render scale of 150-175% watch those bad boys reach 85c+
The cooling system leaves no room for overclocking on GPUs if you play games that utilize GPUs 100% load. I am okay with it since you dont need to overclock. -
I keep the room at 24-26C at all times.
Here are the main differences -
The thickest pads on the MOSFETs are 3.5mm
All my chokes are 1mm IIRC. Other than the small ones right on top of the power connector , those are using 1.5mm.
The MOSFETs next to the core towards the mxm slot are using 2.5mm (closest to slot) and 2mm next to the memory chip ( I don't remember this one correctly) .
I'll make a proper image once I get my system back.
But keep in mind this on my newest VC HS, the old one had slightly variation and the MOSFETs pads needed to be 4mm instead of 3.5mm for some reason. And the chokes on the bottom side were 1.5mm. -
I totally agree with you. I just leave it on Auto. I guess the point of doing that is to find out your max temperatures not so much to be playing at that render scale. I leave mine on auto render scale and it puts it on %122 and that gives me temps in the low 80s- but if you wanna see how hot your system can get when pushed to its limits, thats one way of doing it.bloodhawk likes this. -
I have done 4k Ultra everything maxed out runs for @Q937 before and I think a 30 mins run toped out at 76-78C IIRC. That was using the defauLT ICD paste job. With Kryonaut the temps dropped even more.
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Well Ouch then...that sucks. 150w that is...
Pathetic I know...
180w isn't terrible, but due to the high gpu Temps the 180w likely does it justice, than having an overheating gpu causing a whole bunch of problems with the game play and users experience at a higher tdp.
Then again, TDP doesn't tell the whole story. If a gpu can't be kept cool, a high tdp means very little.
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::iunlock:: -
clevo pls
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Regardless, locked down and crippled TDP shouldn't happen!! See Razerbook!!iunlock likes this.
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It's 150w for a good reason
This is the GT83VR heatsink
This is the 16L13
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Hook me up with your thermal pad mods we are both in LA
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Amen to that...
Unfortunate...
::iunlock:: -
The moment I get a free weekend I'll let you know and we can work something out.
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what happened with the dm3?
hopefully you get it soon for the thermal pad guide
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Slave GPU went bye bye.
Weirdly enough just got an email for HIDE, the system will be shipping back soon. Less than a week long turn around wew! -
Dell uses the buyers of their newest BGA trash as Guinea Pigs
And even more
snacks from Dell's camp
"I have been in contact with a few senior engineers at aw and they have told me that they are using my system as a guniea pig to confirm the issue and are working on a new vbios update that should fix the high PCH temps." When will they reach the bottom?
Last edited: Apr 12, 2017 -
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Haha poor cat...
Well to be fair, every ODM has their fair share of issues. This is not to discount the short comings of Dell's problems, but at least they are doing something about it, whereas other ODM's do not.
A guinea pig under the scope is better than none. As long as that customer gets a new unit, all good let them dissect it.
Support in third world countries can't be compared to the US. There are a lot of issues in India and SE Asia when it comes to Dell support.
Nothing new, sucky reality.... I'd be more concerned that the customer gets taken care of...Last edited: Apr 12, 2017 -
You know I have mad respect for you, but that is delusional thinking! They are going to take your system and reverse engineer it to block any mods they find on it or have been ear hustling on. Just like they did with everything after the M18XR2. They tried to block that, but couldn't so they started on the AW line.
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they killed the main interest point to why these sli systems sellAshtrix likes this.
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HaHa. + rep
Exacty... Pure Guinea Pigs. Can I ask you who have modded firmware before... What effect can a revamped vBios have on PCH temp?
I ask because I want to know what will come next?
And yeah, @bloodhawk Why should I buy Trash?
The text is from the GP link I posted. Not from me.
Last edited: Apr 13, 2017 -
@bloodhawk You are right.
@Papusan None. -
Y'all wanna test GPU temps, run hashcat. Temps will go to 90C+ easily.
Did it just randomly die? -
@D2 Ultima @bloodhawk @Mr. Fox @TBoneSan @Phoenix @Q937 @Prema @Georgel @Meaker@Sager @iunlock
I mentioned something about fan gap.
I left my system for around 24H testing different CPU overclock profile, at max fan.
Obviously it will intake some dust, for example here in the CPU fan cage. Which I really think should be flipped over for better air intake, but that's a rant for another day.
Here we can agree that dust buildup is present, yes?
I put on kapton tape around my other 2 fans, they're clear and will absorb some dust.
Dust on the kapton tape will indicated air bleed (wasted pressure, wasted air volume) that cycles back into the chassis and not into the fins. This hurts cooling performance since air is not being used for pushing heat out of the system.
Here the bleed is significant (I was not physically able to fully seal this fan due to how it is wired to the mb). The fan wastes air through the top and sides. I was only able to seal this side, so some air is lost through the other side and possibly bottom.
Making it worse is the hole on the fins. This is the only hole I can plug up on the VC. Theoretically you should have another 3 due to how the fins are soldered onto the heatsink.
My VC middle fan is 95% sealed towards the fins, this might explain why the Slave GPU runs around 2-3c cooler than the master GPU.
Look at how much air were to bleed through that hole if it wasn't plugged.
=======================================================================================================================================
Another problem, this time is my mistake.
This 4mm thermal pad seems too thick, it's compressed way too much compared to the other VRM that are using 4mm pad.
I will try to replace with 3mm to see if that improves GPU temp.
Later I will also do test on the GPU core with pressure paper / prescale film.
But if we look at other places that I have installed 4mm, it only has moderate amount of downward pressure. Thus ideal for the heatsink.
I will also put K5 Pro on the chokes (gray metal squares) whenever I disassemble this thing again. I'm taking Meaker's word that we need to reduce heat radiation from the GPU chokes so that it doesn't affect other components.
=======================================================================================================================================
On an interesting note, EKWB recommends a sandwich between [component -> thermal paste -> thermal pad -> thermal paste -> heatsink]
What do you guys think?
Think we should make another thread on how we're fixing Clevo's terribad QC.
Edit: Dammit...
Ashtrix, Prema, TBoneSan and 1 other person like this. -
That keyboard looks just as dusty....
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Rarely use the number pad
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Im betting the rest looks the same
Meaning the room collects a lot of dust -
It does actually, at least between the keys
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Well, don't worry. You are not alone.
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btw, how did you tackle temp issue on cpu?
shim + lm? -
Yeap observed the same, with one heatsink, the pads on both GPU's can be the same size and thickness. The other Heatsink needs thinner pads on the master GPU :S
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what the actual fk?
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I think most of the first batch units were the best ones. I haven't seen any of those users have any issues yet.
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where can I buy the first batch unit?
those were the ones where copper was shiny, and not dull/scuffed up right? -
Yeap. Don't think you can get those anymore.
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....
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I don't have those sorts of problems. I'm not trying to redline my cpu while browsing the internet. And it now sits on a laptop top cooler running 3 240 cfm fans with fan controller. The DM3 has nothing on these fans! But they can also be made to run very quiet at 1800 rpms and still push over 100+ cfm's.
Plus You don't need much voltage either so that also helps.
I bought 4 more to put on my Phase Change to replace the way lower ones I had on their at first. -
I am planning on getting a laptop cooler for my p870km1 any suggestions?
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@Juang1985
@Mr. Fox has a nice little write up on how our laptop coolers are made.Mr. Fox likes this. -
When it comes to laptop coolers, there is really only one good option available. Like almost all things made today, it's not that great stock. You have to make it great with mods.
Parts involved:
U3 Cooler - https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-PLUS-Performance/dp/B00ED3WMTC
Fan Controller - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP9WRZY
AC Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MGG6SC
Vardar Fans - http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-f...0rpm-high-performance-liquid-cooling-fan.html
You can see my photos in these imgur albums: http://imgur.com/a/7RmEM, http://imgur.com/a/IGq3C and here http://imgur.com/a/iZ192 -
Since I have replaced almost all thermal pads with fujipoly (THX to @iunlock) I thought I am leaving this here (based on @Meaker@Sager 's early work), maybe it helps someone else who also wants to go 'full-board':
THX @ angel@HIDevolution for the stock pad pictures!
I have removed the 'CPU clips' to get the heatsink closer to the DIE. If you use a copper chim instead then you may want to use stock 1mm & 2.5mm for the CPU heatsink...
The 4mm pads are still original which are quiet soft, so you may want to go for 3.5mm if you use a higher grade / harder model.Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
Clevo Overclocker's Lounge
Discussion in 'Sager/Clevo Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Spartan@HIDevolution, Mar 4, 2016.