Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

Good luck trying to get hold of these guys for an exchange. 5 emails and 3 website messages, then I even managed to get them online via Skype at 3am this morning... no reply

 

Even the contact us link didnt get you a repsonse? I got a reply within a few hours. It went to the Spam folder.

 

If I don't here back in a day I'll file a PayPal claim. You don't mess with PayPal. Those guys are like the mob.

 

I had no issues getting in contact with them via the form except for it going into my spam folder. They also swapped out the 2 KBL IHSes I ordered for 2 of the SKL version with no hassle.

 

Damn... nothing in my spam folder

 

Try using the contact us link on the left, if you haven't already. And make sure you are logged in.
I have great experience dealing with them, have ordered WC parts for desktop loops a bunch of times and they always responded in a timely manner.

 

Ok success. My Thunderbolt account didn't pick up their spam after the initial account registration. I logged into my browser gmail and bingo, support was flagged.
Official apology going out to Bitzpower. Your communication doesn't suck.

 

For everyone that has the IHS from bits power:

How much of a difference does the IHS make compared to regular delid?

How much of a difference does the skylake version make over the kaby lake version?

 

This is the big question. I think a lot of it still comes down to - how flat your HS is.

I'll hopefully get to try a flat HS soon (3rd times a charm) and brother @Q937 has done me a real solid hooking me up with some Skylake love - You're a champion mate!

As of now with a goof heatsink and the Bitzpower Kaby I still need to use a shim and there's hardly a difference.
However weather is getting warmer now for a lot of us (except for snowman @Papusan )so we should all get a little more scientific logging ambient temps when we compare.

 

The dimentions are not going to be too different from the original for obvious reasons.

 

I got both, Skylake and Kabylake. My Skylake one looks just like yours. Seems to have a bunch of machine marks on it.

 

Quoting their listing:

 

If I have time this weekend I'm going to try my stock Skylake IHS and see how it works before I try the BitsPower one.

 

It's always good to do a before and after to be sure what's going on

 

So from what i observed last night, on the Dm3, the temps with the Bitspower IHS are 3-5C better than using a shim and about on part of 1-2C higher than using the Stock IHS with the C-Clips removed. But this could have been an ambient temp disparity as @TBoneSan stated earlier.
When i tested the stock IHS a while back with the c clips removed, the ambient temps were around 22C, yesterday they were around 25-27C.

 

It's to test em in an A/C room with a set temp.

 

Still a thing to keep in mind though when looking at every ones temps. Not everyone will have an AC controlled environment.

 

Very true. I was only considering it as "to find out whether it is better or worse". Though I find that 5c drops in my room often equate to 8-12C temp drops.

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

For some reason my posts didn't go out.

Oh well Bitspower emailed back right away and is saying it's just machining marks. I think it's shoddy work and won't be putting it on my CPU. I'll start making my own

 

Its awesome if you can. But they are harmless, but i dont see any other way of making something like this without mark. Unless someone wants to spend a lot of time sanding the inside crevice with amazing accuracy. Then too everything will need very very very tight measurements, otherwise if there is a gap , then tha twill defeat the whole purpose.

 

Anyone want to sell me a spare skylake bitspower ihs unit?

I bought the kaby version thinking it was thicker as the skylake...

 

Yeah I'm trying to figure out how much extra material to leave for polishing. I fill a good finishing pass would do a better job than this. I have a bunch of aluminum I'll protype on before getting some copper. Do you guys think it's ok if it's raw copper?

 

I don't have a stock IHS laying around can someone check the depth of the bottom of the stock IHS and see if it's the same as the depth on the bitspower?

 

Ah yes that would make sense to avoid having to use a shim eh...

It would have been nice if they had made one slightly thicker than the skylake for these specific applications in the dtr's...



::iunlock::

 

Yeah, Frankenstein Become reality and it's on it's way Welcome to Nvidia GTX 1080 "Max-Q"

"The GTX 1080 currently has the designation GP104, the shown Triton 700 on the other hand shows a GP104M..." Yeah, nGreedia isn't finished with the Mobile naming"

Edit. Maybe we later will se a gimped down 1080TI ?

 

By the way, I've been running some games I normally don't play (anymore) for temperature testing and such.

Spoiler: non-overclocking image, but worth a laugh nonetheless

I came across this... interesting... state in GTA V.

Ladies and gentlemeows, let me produce to you, Grand Theft Unoptimization Five, a game launched in EARLY 2015, when the strongest cards on the market were R9 290Xs, GTX 980s and GTX Titan Blacks. Running at a grand 1080p, with its stuff all maxed out, getting (in this shot, anyway) a rock solid 124FPS, using (wait for it) a whopping 95% of two GTX 1080s and 77.375% (ignore 75% in the picture) of an i7-7700K (4.4GHz as no shim or bitspower IHS put in yet).



This game is BONE STOCK gentlemeows and ladies! There are no mods. This is simply the game turned up, with motion blur turned off.

I feel for people who are running this game on 6700HQs with 1080Ns *cough* Razer *cough* (I really need to get that cough looked at).

 

I managed to push max +175MHz Core and +525MHz mem. Anything over 185MHz Core (OC Fan profile, ~~3,3krpm) causes black screen.

Do you know any tricks to improve VRM/Mosfet temperatures without hardmodding GPU? Heatsink ok, but I'm not going to touch GPU.

 

Interesting

 

I have a new IHS modeled up. I want to take some measurements on an original IHS and before I start making one. I'm bidding on a used one on eBay right now. I also took some measurements of the bitspower pocket and found that the big pocket is not level and the die pocket tries to correct that.

What do you guys think of making an IHS out of silver? 3D printing one which is the most expensive is $120. I think having a casting company do it would bring the cost down. I know it's overkill but it seems like fun and the silver could be considered an investment that you could keep/sell later on

 

Better and slightly thinner thermal pads. And making sure they make proper contact.

 

If I could do it. I'd weld up my heatsink to the bare die.

 

Do you have the measurements of the thermal pads you recommend

 

It depends. tbh. And from what i have found between my 2 heat sinks, its different.

But for general use @Meaker@Sager 's pad layout works just fine, i recommend finding that one.

 

and where can I find that layout?

 

Let me see if i can find it somewhere.

EDIT - Here you go -

http://i.imgur.com/vKrFd31.jpg

 

Thanks man! any particular brand of thermal pads you recommend? I have never changed thermal pads in the past only re paste. so Kinda new in that area.

Also where i can buy some? I checked on amazon and seems like they dont have much to choose from

 

Goto brand now a days is Arctic , their 6w/mK pads are amazing value for money, once you get a hang of doing this, or are sure of what you are doing, then you can even grab the FujiPoly 11 w/mK pads. Both are available readily over at amazon.

 

would this one do ? for the 1 mm one or do i have to buy the bigger pad? I a bit extreme gonna go for the fujipoly hahaha

https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJPZQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493421079&sr=8-4&keywords=FujiPoly+11+w/mK+pads


or


https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod...3421079&sr=8-1&keywords=FujiPoly+11+w/mK+pads

 

Okay so i placed the order. I ordered two 0.5mm and two 1.0mm and single strip of the 1.5mm. Damn.... 69$ hope this makes a difference

 

I would suggest holding off on the FujiPoly for now, till you know that the heatsink doesnt have any imperfections. Plus for normal use you should be good with the Arctic pads.

 

Took your advice. canceled order and re ordered the artic.

did you see a difference on the GPU temp when you changed your thermal pads? or is that only to cool the memory modules better?

 

My delta is about 2C and max i have seen them go is about 72-75C during Ghost Recon Wildlands and Overwatch. Also im using Kryonaut on the GPU Die'. Also my pad setup is a bit different and highly customized based on my heatsink.
But yeah for general non overclocked (or mild overclocks) use Artics are more than good enough.

 

nice... cant wait to get my pads. Coming on Monday. Any advice? since sounds like you have changed the pads a few times.

 

Be patient and take your time doing it.
I place them in a order like - VRAM Pads first on the heatsink, then do a test fit with the heatsink, then the MOSFET pads, etc. TO make sure that the following pads dont mess up the contact and arent too thick.

 

Thanks I'll let you know how it goes.. I am gonna have to wait till next weekend to do it

 

ahh long time .
I think those pads are available with same or next day delivery.

 

It will be a couple of weeks for my IHS too.

 

this thread is so bugged it's not even funny

1174 isn't even showing up for me @win32asmguy

 

And page 1175 showing only 1 single post for me I have seen similar in other threads as well.
Edit. Now zero posts in page 1174, HaHa