Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

Core Max Mult at 45 with -50 Offset.
Lock the ring Max Mult. to 42 and Ring offset to -100.
And try leaving the currents limits at 0. (dont touch any of them for now)
Im sure this is a typo but, just to be sure, Power Limits at :



Run AIDA64 Stress test / Cinebench with settings and post the HWinfo screenshots.
Preferably like this :


My Power profiles :

Balanced -

High Performance -


SO FRIGGIN HOT TODAY IN LA. >: (

 

1) your turbo power max is way too high bro isn't it?

2) how come you didn't touch the power limit time window and left it at 0?

3) look at your HWiNFO min CPU speed, it dipped to approximately 1 GHz so you have that throttling issue as well.

I suggest you disable C-States as well

 

1) Its not high, that value is in milli Watts.

2) Those windows have helped me only when overclocking to high clocks and bench marking. For General use i leave them as is.

3) The minimum is that way, because i use the Balanced Profile for General use and on hot days.

4) Till the current clocks do not fall under what you set it at, under 100 % load it doesn't matter what the minimum says.

 

sadly that doesnt account for the freaking thermal issues its showing.. ill wait to wait

 

Your issue is slightly different.
This is mainly for @Phoenix , he shouldn't be having stability issues.

@Phoenix Running AIDA and Cinebench at the same time :

 

Ahhh ok

 

My dream is if Intel releases a CPU that runs @ 5 GHz stock without the need for us to reinvent the wheel trying to find right settings, silicon lottery, bla bla bla, and just be done with it

a laptop with a 5 GHz CPU + GTX 1080 + 64GB 3200 MHz. G.Skill RAM and I'll be a happy bunny..

all I've been doing since I got this laptop is tweaking, fighting thermal throttling, hunting for and begging for EC firmware updates and BIOS updates.....sheesh, this is no fun (to me at least)

 

LOL. That wont happen unless AMD does something ground breaking and starts the Ghz war.

It all comes down to understanding how it works though. Took me maybe a week to understand setup for general use and then but more to get bench OC's down.
There is a learning curve, im still learning a lot of things. A lot of time you cant just max everything out and hope it works. Mostly it will, but sometimes it needs fine tuning and experimenting.

 

all Craptel is doing now is increasing more cores, 4 cores, 6 cores, and soon 10 cores...I don't want this BS because a lot of apps/games don't make use of extra cores....give meh teh MHz

 

TDP Bruh, Where will all that heat babez go ?

 

Intel is more interested in making a better iGPU for every new gen processor. The working cores will take smaller and smaller sizes on die, while the iGPU will be BIGGER. Welcome to the future.... Forget higher clock speed and revolutionary leap in performance!!! More cores working at lower speed is what you will get back in your face later down the road. + This Brilliant iGPU who let you watch You tube without the need for ordinary gpu. Yeah!!!

 

ehe, high clock speed leds to horrible horrible disasters......

it is really a bad idea.

The netburst arch was so bad that intel completely abandoned it after Pentium 4.

 

Oh man.. you are already lucky enough to be here.
Luck is always relative thing.

 

Never thought I would have a stable 43x with -80 ring and -80 cache

 

Im telling you there is something wrong with something you guys are doing.

But your VR temp issue is probably something more.

 

Guys i was wondering if this will work with my laptop? https://www.ebay.com/itm/252422807658 i asked lpc digital what model they used and they sent me this pic. The same exact model on the pic is quite pricy on ebay. Any idea where i can grab a cheaper 8gb ram thats the same model as the pic aside from ebay?

 

If you were in the US, i have a Hynix kit up on the market.

But you might want to check locally , usually Samsung and Hynix are easily available with local sellers.

 

I purchase my stuff in the us cause i have an uncle working in the postoffice/usps i think so i get free shipping. Can you link me to it? But i already have the one on the picture so i was wondering if i can use the one on the link i posted.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/fs-32-gb-8gb-x-4-hynix-ddr-4-ram.792507/

btw. Laptop specific forums would be the best place for these type of questions

 

I am sorry. I just love this thread bec people are so responsive/helpful/knowledgeable here rofl.

 

New personal best for 6700K...

 

Nice score. Have you 32M score from the little monster El Cazador also? 4790 with same Clockspeed should be around 4.850 sec

 

I stacked 3 Coollaboratory Liquid Metal Pad on the CPU after flattening out the P750ZM heat sink plate and it seems to be much improved. The heat sink is too small for benching without AC like the P870DM-G.

I am pretty sure I could get down to 4.850 sec or maybe even less. This is my best (so far) with all background applications and service running except for Clevo Control Center. (I really hate that utility. Wish I could control LED colors without that piece of bloatware.)



This is kind of interesting to look at. Showing the progress (or how little thereof, depending on one's perspective,) Intel has made with quad core CPUs since 2920XM. Except for the 4930MX the quads are all 4.8GHz scores. The 4930MX is 4.9GHz.

 

4.850 sec, is perhaps difficult to achieve with 4.8 GHz. In the borderline for 4.8 GHz!!
Great that those pads helps. I suggested this liquid metal pads from Collboratory earlier for you. You were not repellent to the proposal. So how big is the difference with or without thise pads?
And Yeah... Control Center isn't useful for anything... I never use that trash. Nothing in that software interest me... I give a damn in what color I use for my keyboard. Junk!!

4930Mx without Fivr would have been a much better Cpu... Especially in laptops!! This craziness from the Intel Morons destroyed this processor generation. Skylake is what Hotwell should been.

 

So you used the pads without applying something else on it?

 

the pads are thin sheets of metal that melt once they reach a specific temperature, thus behaving like liquid metal paste. once u switch off the machine and the heatsink cools down, they turn solid again, so u basically have the cpu soldered to the heatsink

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

So this is kind of fire & forget, never replacing TIM/Pads again!?

 

Correct... just a thorough cleaning first.

Exactly like that. I put it on the 980M also and the core on that sucker hasn't hit 70°C under load even when OC'd to 1425+ on core clock.

Yes, until you have to remove the heat sink for some reason and then you'll probably have to redo it. It is supposed to peel off clean, so when the time comes we shall see if that is the case. It was with the Indigo Xtreme XS. I've tried Indigo on the Panther and the P750ZM and it was an abject failure on both machines. I could not get a complete flow of the TIM across the IHS on either machine. I am assuming because of the sloppy fitting heat sinks. There is not enough TIM because the gap is too wide for it to fill. So, anyone thinking of trying it, don't waste your money unless you have a really good fitting heat sink with solid contact pressure. The Indigo Xtreme XS would have been awesome if not for the sloppy heat sink fit. On both machines it was like 1MM thick after flowing less than half way across the IHS and then stopping. On the P750ZM, two cores were nice and cool and the other two were nuclear meltdown hot from only half the IHS having coverage by the TIM.

 

Thanks for this, i was actually about to order the XS later this week. Now ill go ahead with the an alternate Water cooler experiment
Also my last set of copper shims should be coming in today, so going to be experimenting with the cooling those darned VRM's / Power Phases.

 

Glad it was helpful. As I mentioned my plans to try it earlier in this thread I thought it would be a good idea to mention the failure as well.

For the record, I tried it twice on both machines. The kit comes with two applications. Both times on the P750ZM I loaded the CPU with Prime95 and let it hover between 98-101°C for 30 minutes. The temps never dipped as expected and I ultimately gave up. Both times on both machines the flow was the same, reached about the same spot where it stopped so I am almost positive poorly fitting heat sinks is the reason it won't work well. Clevo needs to be paying closer attention to this kind of thing. There is absolutely no excuse for the crappy fitting heat sinks. I was lucky on the Sky X9 review machine and my own P870DM-G. The CPU heat sink fit was excellent on both of them and using Liquid Ultra is highly successful. I see you and @Phoenix were not as fortunate as @Papusan and I have been with the P870DM-G CPU heat sinks.

 

Yeah, i had to sand down quite a bit to make it as flat as possible, but even now there is a slight curve straight down the middle. Heck my 6700k IHS was curved in the middle as well.
Any idea where i can get an extra IHS? I want to give CLU a shot, but dont want to ruin the copper since its lapped.

Im pretty much planning on cooling the CPU with a 140mm/120mm rad at this point, gotta go check if the motherboard has the backplate or not.

 

Did you try bending it in the middle like I did the P750ZM heat sink? That worked better than I expected it to, but the heat plate is much thinner (unfortunately) on the P750ZM. You'd probably need to set the edges on a couple of blocks of wood and smack the center of it to bow it the opposite direction on the P870DM heat sink because the copper plate is so much thicker. You could still try that. Lay a block of wood on top of the heat pipes to avoid smashing them with the hammer head.

Also, one point of clarification on the Liquid Metal Pad for anyone planning to use them. You need to cut them down to the size of the die on the 6700K. They are large enough for the big AMD and 6/8 Core Intel CPU IHS and you don't want the overhang to melt and run down into the CPU socket, LOL. I used some sharp scissors and cut them like 1/32 of an inch smaller than the top of the IHS and it worked wonderfully stacked 3 pads high. There is a burn-in like the Indigo. It's not instant cooling like Liquid Ultra. At first I did not think it was going to work, but I kept the CPU loaded and after about 15 minutes the temps dropped. I shut it off and let it cool to ambient room temps and the P750ZM has never been this cool. (The temps are still too high because of the tiny heat sink radiator, but definitely better than they ever were before.)

 

If it isn't close to that, lapping both ihs and heatsink is needed! BADLY!

@bloodhawk - don't worry about staining the copper on the ihs. Just try to work it until flat. All intel consumer ihs are concave And a majority of desktop heat sinks are convex, making a good fit. We don't have the luxury. What does it matter if it is stained, so long as you are not using an aluminum based paste next?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Do you know where I can find that paper ? Or what it's called ?

Yeah, ita pretty much flat now. Gonna give CLU a shot if the liquid cooler fits.

 

I posted a photo of mine before and it was only barely touching at the outer edges of the IHS, not even remotely close to that. I also did a test with a long strip of paper. With the heat sink bolted down I could move the strip of paper back and forth with zero resistance, so it was zero contact in the center. That is pretty good contact and Indigo would probably work fine with that kind of fit. The way mine was, I think if I removed enough metal to make it flat before bending it the opposite direction it would have made the plate too thin to even use any more. I probably would have needed to shave about 1MM of metal away because it was so badly deformed. Same was true for the Panther, but the original heat sink on it was even worse fitting than the P750ZM. It did not touch anywhere. I could put the heat sink on, then take it off and the brush marks on the Liquid Ultra were not even disturbed, LOL. That's really bad, and totally unacceptable QC.

For some reason a lot of people get concerned about that, and some actually go as far as getting really wigged out about it. The staining is totally irrelevant. The way I see it, if the paste doesn't cause a stain, it's not very good paste. IC Diamond and liquid metal thermal pastes actually impregnate the pores of the metal, fill up the porous surface and make it a smoother/denser surface. That is why it permanently changes the color, and that is good. I think it actually improves the cooling.

 

Fujifilm pressure sensitive scale on amazon. I got the I've 20psi (it is the second lowest psi paper, either extreme or ultra low) on amazon

@Mr. Fox - I've been through 3 heat sinks. Getting the ihs flat is first to get a good fit and make sure the gap is with the heatsink. The screw mood is to get better pressure and even contact. Each screw has its own amount it has to be screwed in after replacing the spring screws (I measured to the 1/8th turn). From there, the wide 2 3/4" 3m wall rubber sanding block took down the gap. As you can see, still has a center contact issue, but not as bad as the start.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Is this the same pressure as what you are using? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TLOG9M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1C2QYN0FFFRLO

 

That is the one I used. Just remember, psi doesn't convert directly to the specs for pressure on the Intel socket and that the pressure is additive for downward force with the bracket.

Also, don't use kryonaut if your ihs is stained from liquid metal. It uses nano aluminum and that does not play nice with gallium!

Edit: Also, because you are looking for pressures toward the lower end of the film try to get it flat first of you are going to play with the screw mod and remember you can crush the die or socket. I have the Intel specs and pressures in either the p750zm or p770zm threads.

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LOL... already did and it turned it black. But, it didn't hurt anything. It only slightly corroded the aluminum in Kryonaut residue and I rubbed it off with the scuff pad included with Liquid Ultra. The IHS and copper were not affected by the corroded aluminum in the Kryonaut. It's was kind of funny, actually. The second application of Kryonaut was fine after a through sanding/polish with the scuff pad.

 

I've watched a video of gallium causing an aluminum heatsink to disintegrate. I figured it would react, just didn't know the effect on the reaction happening between copper plates... lol and now we know!

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Well, it was only like a week or so. I tried Kryonaut to see if it would help before I flattened out the heat sink plate. It did not work as well as IC Diamond. I still think it would have been OK long term. I do not think it would permanently harm the IHS or the copper heat plate, but it definitely affected the first application of Kryonaut and impaired its cooling ability when the aluminum particles started to oxidize. I've seen that video and it's scary for aluminum heat sinks. It will completely destroy them.

 

My thought was that the copper would be fine, but after lapping takes off the copper oxidation protective coating, I wonder if it would shorten the oxidation window of 2-5 years... still, most likely nothing to worry about with so little air exposure, etc.

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Do you guys think the motherboard will be OK with something like a H80/90 plate mounted?
I'm planning on keeping the chasis elevated .

 

Why not? If concerned, replace the backplate. Also, check mounting pressure like a desktop.

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The bolt pattern is not even close. You will have to fabricate something. Look at the spacing between the screws and you'll find they are way off.

 

Yeah, gonna do something like that. Will have access to a C&C soon.

 

I have not compared, so take mr. Fox's word on this one. If determined, you will find a way (like mr. Fox said, fab something).

Edit: a co-op of sorts will be opening here soon and this fall I'll have access to machinery I've been wanting, hopefully including C&C mill also...

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@bloodhawk - I'd try an EK AIO with a simple water block on the CPU and the pump/reservoir mounted on the radiator instead. That would reduce the chance of motherboard fatigue from a bulky cooler with the pump mounted over the CPU. You can also use 90° elbows on the water block to help keep a lower profile. The EK AIO also has the option of drip-proof quick disconnect fittings on the hoses.

 

Yeah the backplate seems to be sturdy enough :

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtHvY3vY0T9YoCnl5OIfG9uHxflx
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtHvY3vY0T9YoC_WNixmiX2VxL0q

Going to actually use something on the lines of the Swiftech H240X/H220X with a mix of the corsair bracket. Still gotta take this apart later this week and take measurements. Dont want to invest in an EK right now unless some wicked idea crawls up into my head.

 

Yes, it does. Maybe a large square adapter that bolts to the existing back plate stand-off threads with threaded studs that match the stock cooler bracket dimension would work. As long as the adapter is shorter/lower than the top of the CPU retention bracket and IHS it should work, assuming there is enough space in the area surrounding the CPU to accommodate such an adapter bracket. I haven't studied it close enough to know if there is any extra wiggle-room to work with.