*** Official Clevo P157SM-P150SM / Sager NP8250 Owner's Lounge ***

Its the other way around. I weould recommend you to update to the last mod because V1 was the version I was on when my BIOS became corrupt as I told you on the post above, and that bug is no more present in the current version. About GTX1060 compatibility I have absolutely no idea, you should ask prema.

 

Hey guys,

I built my p157sm back in 2013. Slowly but surely hardware has begun failing (hard drive, battery, etc), and i have been replacing things best i can.

Recently i was playing skyrim with the AC cable plugged in. About 2 hours in, i got a notification that my battery was at 8% and the notebook proceeded to shut off despite being plugged into the adapter.

I inspected the brick (FSP180-ABAN1 unit) and the diagnostic blue light on the brick was curiously off. Everything was warm so I unplugged everything and waited for the components to cool. I plugged everything back in and no dice -- everything is dead, no response from the brick or from my machine.

I ordered a replacement brick from UpBright, and when i plug that into my machine, there is still no response.

What is going on here? I always use a surge protector so i am hesistant to believe that i fried something internally though that is possible. It is also possible that i was sent a defective replacement brick.

Any ideas?

 

It would be helpful if you could provide us with the specs of both the brick you were using, if it wasnt the original one, and the replacemente one.

 

My original brick was a FSP make (model: FSP180-ABAN1) with
A/C input: 100-240V~, 2.5A, 50-60 Hz
D/C output: 19V---9.47A

The replacement i bought is an UpBright make (model: LWE-199525)
A/C input: 100-240V~2.0A, 50-60Hz
D/C output: 19V---9.5A

 

You should always use the stock brick, for example my P150SM has a Delta Electronics model: ADP-180NB BC, which is rated at 19.5V and 9.2A, that is the stock charger for my machine, but I have no idea actually if P157SM uses a different brick than the P150SM

 

The stock brick that came with my notebook was the FSP-180 model i listed above. That is no longer in production. I bought the upbright as a substitution because i couldn't find the stock. What should i look for in a brick? Should i just assume its ok if its the right watts, volts, and amps?

 

Seems I have to return to the P150 due to the firewire chip.

What parts should I put inside it to use less power? Can the thing run without the GPU?

 

No, but you can switch the nvidia control panel to IGP only and it will never power the GPU up.

 

Thanks!

Same applies to the AMD options? Will be used in the Audio field and nVidia gets a bad rap here.

Quest for low DPC

Oh, and maybe can someone confirm the SM/-A got the Texas Instruments Firewire controller?

OK, found: XIO2221ZAY

 

Yes, the same for AMD.

 

Apologies for not getting back to you all, work has been fooking mental recently.

Basically the laptop turns on with the little white dial lit up, touchpad and keyboard lighting up as well.
Fans are not spinning at all until the unit turns off and reboots itself, looping of course.

Can the laptop boot without an MXM card installed? Boot on the Intel HD graphics instead?

Going to take your advice and strip it down and remove the CMOS battery in case it is just a case of a knackered BIOS error and needs resetting.

RAM is good also, have tested it in two other DDR3 laptops without issue.

 

It can boot but will shut down after 30 seconds.

 

Thanks.

Just removed the keyboard for the first time and on the right handside.......signs of a spillage.
Bought this for parts anyway but can't stand d**kheads not being honest.

Going to hunt for a new motherboard.

 

A q-tip and rubbing alcohol can bring back machines with that kind of residue if the short is minor.

 

http://imgur.com/a/W1OKM

As you can see in the pictures attached above, my gpu bracket has 2 broken screws (head fell off) and the rest of the screw is still inside. So i was thinking about buying new screws as well as the part that they screw into, which I think is called standoff jackscrew. These are the ones that i think im going to buy but I dont know the correct size for the jackscrew and I dont know if the screw will fit in. Please if someone knows the exact size or any other useful info I would really appreciate it.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6Pcs-Lot-Graphics-Video-Card-Fan-Heatsink-Screw/32755410802.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100..._1&btsid=195e7abc-fc82-430d-ace4-58aa9682e91b

 

Sorry for bumping, but can anyone help me with this?

 

The threads are on the X bracket glued to the back of the card. If they are damaged you need a new x bracket.

 

So I should buy new screws and what else? A new x bracket?
So I dont need those hex standoff jackscrew things?

Thanks in advance for your help Meaker!

 

Hello. I have P150SM with gtx 880m. When I game, the fps drops to 20 to 30 fps from 80 fps. I tried to update the nvidia drivers but no luck. any has any idea whats wrong?

 

If the screws are intact that's fine but an x-bracket (contact your reseller) is a must. They may be able to throw in some screws anyway since they are usually pretty common in the spares box. No standoffs except for the two holding the card to the motherboard by the ram/vrm area (which use black screws).

Check your temps and clean your heatsinks as a matter of course. The fans come away by themselves giving good access to the fins so no need to take them off unless problems persist (at which point you can do a re-paste using something like IC diamond).

 

Thanks for the reply. I checked the temps and they were around 93C. What i did was opened the laptop and repasted the cpu and gpu. The paste on the gpu was dry and i cleaned it with tissue and little bit acetone.

The spikes were before i repasted the GPU. But now i get more spikes with fresh thermal paste. The temps are still 93C. I used arctic mx-5 or 4 thermal paste

 

[QUOTE="Meaker@Sager, post: 10388592, member: 11947"
Check your temps and clean your heatsinks as a matter of course. The fans come away by themselves giving good access to the fins so no need to take them off unless problems persist (at which point you can do a re-paste using something like IC diamond).[/QUOTE]

I reinstalled the windows, cleaned the GPU rubbing alcohol, applied Thermal paste again cleaned the fans updated drivers but still same problem. The temperature gets around 92C. Any idea what is wrong? is the GPU faulty? my CPU stays around 70C with 50% load and gpu has 99% load.

 

I would check your paste job otherwise one of the heatpipes on the heatsink may have failed meaning a replacement would be needed.

 

I think I am OK with thermal paste job because I repasted my alienware laptop and the temp dropped by 20C. So now GPU heatsink hunting begins. But one thing I don't understand is the temp reaches 93C and stays there with GPU usage 99%. it drops for a second and then goes back normal. I think it doesn't throttle. Is there any software to check the thermal throttling of the GPU?

 

Sorry for tagging you in my every post. I used msi after burner and limited to temp to 80C and seems like the fps spikes stopped. I also took the back cover off and run the game again without limiting the GPU temp and the GPU temp stayed around 81 and no problem so far. Then i put the back again and with plenty of ventilation under it, the temp went around 87 and same issue. I am afraid that using acetone might have damaged the GPU. I will replace the heatsink and hope it solves the problem.

 

Acetone would not have caused an issue unless it was still wet.

 

Is the GPU heatsink of P170SM compatible with P150SM? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272426941...9f55cbbb6fc&bu=43770760494&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu This one?

 

Yes although the all in one heatsinks (that don't split the VRM and the GPU core sections) are the best ones for the model.

 

I read one of your other post in which you said put bottle cap under the laptop feet and the temp dropped to 89 degrees and the spikes also became less frequent. I thought putting it on hard surface is enough for good ventilation. Any idea where I can source the all in one heatsink? any model number?

 

It's the 980m heatsink you want but they can share part numbers. If you contact the seller say you are looking for the single piece 980m heatsink for the P15x series.

 

I contacted some of the re-sellers and waiting for their reply. meanwhile i did some more diggings and found few things. I installed clevo control center and set fan speed to maximum. now i am getting around 85C while playing battlefield 4 (only when i place a bottle cap under the feet of laptop on GPU side). I have uploaded the picture of the log. I still get little spikes. Ignore the drops in the first part of log. there was no cap under laptop then.

 

I have limited the temp to 85C and still get spikes . I even installed the windows 7 and tried there, still same. Is there any software which I can use to check if GPU is faulty?

 

Can you do a similar thing for the CPU at the same time, it might not be the GPU doing that.

 

I logged everything in MSI after burner and have attached the log file. The last part where it gets smooth, I limited the temp to 80C. Here is the link of the file.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=00119862651461857779

 

I read this post http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/p157sm-a-premamod-issues-fps-drops.787166/page-8 and I think maybe the bios is the problem. My BIOS details are as follows:
P15SM-A/SM1-A
Bios Version 1.05.01
EC Firmware REvision 10.05.01.

Any idea where to get premamod v1 or bios version 1.03 from?

 

You dont want to get V1 since in V1 there is a PXE bug that made my pc unbootable and wasnt posting after changing some PXE settings and had to disassemble it and take out the CMOS battery. So I recommend you to get his latest BIOS.

Edit: BTW, is downgrading BIOS even possible?

 

In the link I posted, V2 has problem with gtx 880m. 2 people downgraded from V2 to V1 and their stuttering stopped. I am using bios 1.05.01 and V2 is based on it so I think my bios is a problem.

 

Hi, still going strong with my P157SM-A but recently for some reason I've lost the mouse (touch pad) gestures meaning I can no longer scroll via gestures (two fingers, etc.).

Has anyone else run into this?

I'm wondering if it's a windows 10 issue or recent update that has broken this. I'd really appreciate any help as it's driving me nuts.

I have installed the latest drivers for the touchpad from metabox, clevo etc. none of them solve the problem.

Current version installed is:

Sentelic
27/04/2015
9.4.9.5

Edit:

Nevermind, can you believe it, I just typed this and went to the driver's folder Program Files\FSP and ran FSPUip.exe and it now works, must've accidentlly disabled that in my start up... Anyway, can't delete this thread so if anyone has this problem here the solution

 

Did you recently upgrade your laptop to windows 10? Right click on Synaptics Pointing Devices in the bottom right side of your screen. Then select Touchpad properties. On left side of the new window properties, you will see scrolling. set the scrolling from there

 

Thanks. I just updated my post, the task bar icon wasn't running!

 

Yeah the program needs to run to calculate the gestures

That download won't open on my phone BTW with the logs.

 

Sorry, just wanting to ask this.

Are P150SM-A users stuck with 980M as the highest available GPU that we can use?

I know 1070 and 1080 are too large, and they only fit on other laptops with SLI side by side setup (since the damn card eats up both slots).

So not even the 1060 (then again assuming we can, is it worth it?) can fit into this?

How about next generation cards? Would it shrink small enough to fit?

 

All the current Clevo cards are a no as they all use the same PCB. The MSI 1060 might but that won't be a big bump performance wise.

GPU memory continues to evolve again so it's hard to say what they may be shaped like.

 

I guess if that's so... then I'll wait for the next gen (i'm not even sure what's the series. 11xx? 2xxx?). Who knows if they would have shrunk the PCB (not likely after all?) small enough to fit.

Thanks @Meaker@Sager for the for the info.

 

I can't go into details of names or exactly what is going on but it's a big change for packaging at the moment.

 

Has anyone else experienced forced CPU downclocking when running on battery only? If I'm running on battery, the CPU speed will not exceed 1.68Ghz (seems like the multiplier will not exceed 17), even with power management set to High Performance. When my laptop is plugged in, it turbos up to ~3.50Ghz just fine. My wife's laptop doesn't experience this downclocking while on battery. Is it normal for the CPU to refuse to run at full speed on battery even when the CPU min/max in the power profile is set to 100% for battery?

 

On some models this was done to make sure that with the GPU active as well it would not over draw the battery.

 

Downclocking under battery power is common.

An old ThinkPad I've used would go down to 1.2GHz. :<

 

I might need to turn this platform into a portable DAW system, but atm is over spec`d. My goal is to run it with a 90W brick even at full load. Not sure what processor will be the best here. Slap the 47xx series /w 2 cores disabled or grab an i5. The dedicated GPU will be perm disabled.

Is there a non illuminated keyboard for it?

 

90W is fine for the dGPU never being used.